What is Ponte Di Roma? A Fabric Guide
It seems that the knit fabric ponte di roma (also known as punto-di-roma, but I’m going to call it ponte roma for short) is all the rage at the moment and much credit must lie with Tilly Walnes and her wonderful Coco Pattern. And what’s not to love? It’s an easy knit to sew, it doesn’t crease, it doesn’t cling to your lumps and bumps like some knit fabrics, it’s an all round good egg. The fabric was developed in Italy (the clue is in the name) and I’m very glad they did (to think they gave us this AND pizza – praise be for Italy!)
We’ve just had a lovely delivery of this scrummy knit so I thought I’d get tapping in case you were wondering what it was. I love these houndstooth prints… I’m reliably informed that houndstooth is the new chevron, don’t you know.
Construction of Ponte Roma
The fabric is a double knit , which means it’s a double layer of fabric knitted with a 2 sets of needles on 2 needle beds most probably on a machine that looks like this which I think it looks like the Tardis controls… I’m glad we just sell fabric and don’t have to operate scary looking machinery like this.
The fabric can be knitted from all sorts of different types and weights of yarns and elastane is often included to increase the stretch. It’s a firm, stable knit which holds it’s shape well in a garment, great news for the longevity of your lovingly made creations helping them to look great for longer. Being a double knit means that it’s a two faced fabric so it can often (but not always) be used for unlined or reversible items.
Sewing with Ponte Di Roma Fabric
As far as knits go, ponte is a good fabric to start experimenting with. It’s nice and stable, doesn’t have a huge amount of stretch and won’t curl too much either when cut. Try sewing ponte roma with ball point needle in a 70/10-90/12 size. Stay tape might be useful for ensuring your seams don’t run away with you under the needle. Stitch length works well at 2-2.5mm It requires nap layout when cutting out your pattern so bear that in mind when calculating fabric requirements,
I hope you found that helpful. What have you ben making with ponte recently?
How To Restore Plush (Minky) Remnants
Plush, minky, cuddle fabric… whatever you like to call it! (For an update on why we don’t call the fabric “minky” in the UK like the rest of the world does see this post) There’s no mistaking the lusciousness that started me on the road to our online shop. The trouble is (for us) the last 50cm-75cm of every bolt we have can only be sold as a fabric remnant. The pile near to the centre of the bolt gets brushed up the wrong way and crushed when the weight of the rest of the fabric piles on top of it. Then it’s stored by the manufacturer for a while and in that time unfortunately the pile goes a bit wayward and no amount of stroking it puts it back to it’s former glory. The fabric isn’t permanently like this as the pile isn’t damaged per se, it’s just got a bit of bed hair so needs a little coaxing to restore it.
We finish a lot of plush bolts each week which means we have a lot of remnants being created all of the time, in fact we are drowning in the stuff. We have a whole corner of our warehouse dedicated to plush remnants! There are just too many for us to list for sale individually so we also sell bundles at a reduced price. I thought I’d share this quick guide on how to breathe the life back in to the end of roll plush fabric. It’s perfectly good, and a bargain too so it’s worth considering having a go at this if you are a plush lover.
Everything I’d ever read about plush or minky fabric told me never to iron the fabric, not surprising when you think that it’s 100% polyester so liable to melt! I first discovered this technique completely by accident, I was experimenting with some plush remnants to see if I could iron on Bondaweb to the reverse of the fabric and run it through our die cutter machine to make some plush appliqué shapes. Low and behold, not only did the Bondaweb stick, and I could, but the pile on the plush was completely restored.
Restoring Smooth Plush (Smooth Minky Fabric)
1) Set your iron to low and turn off the steam and iron the reverse of the fabric
Often that’s all you need to do! It very much depends on the extent of the issue and will vary each time.
2) If you find this hasn’t worked try increasing the heat slightly. I’d recommend never getting any higher that the wool setting on your iron, any higher and you risk melting the fabric.
3) Sometimes the higher heat still doesn’t fully do the job and some bed hair remains, if that’s the case then flip your fabric over and iron the right side, making sure that the iron passes in the same direction as the pile.
How to Restore Dimple Plush (Dimple Minky Fabric)
Now dimple is a different beast, whatever you do don’t go ironing dimple as otherwise the dimples will disappear. For ages I didn’t think anything could be done to restore dimple without a wash but then I had a brain wave and had another little experiment… and it worked!
Here’s a before picture…
All you need to do is pop your dimple plush in the tumble dryer for 10 minutes (mine was on the highest setting). Don’t leave it sitting in there to cool or it will crease more. Remove it and smooth the pile down
And here’s the finished result, perfect!
Most cuts will restore as good as new using these methods, but some are stubborn and just won’t completely disappear this way, but the pile will always restore after a launder in the washing machine as these bad hair days are not a permanent thing.
If you have discovered a different method then I’d love to hear it.
Happy Days!
A Waterproof Fabric Guide
Following on from my popular post about the fabric possibilities for dribble bibs I thought it would be a good idea to run a series of these posts to talk about the other more specialist fabrics we stock in the Plush Addict Shop. We get lots of questions about which is the best waterproof fabric to use for a particular type of garment or handmade item so I figured this would be the next one in line for a bit of (hopefully!) helpful blurb.
We presently stock 5 main types of waterproof fabric and I’ll take each one in turn
- PUL, or polyurethane laminate
- Laminated Cotton
- Ripstop
- Oil Cloth
- ProCare
- Odicoat (Grab a cheeky 10% off your next Odicoat order with WATERPROOFME10)
PUL is a bit of a special kind of waterproof fabric as it has the marvellous magic properties of being waterproof, but breathable. So why is this important? Well it’s very special because it means you can make waterproof items of clothing and cloth nappies and your body heat has a better chance of escaping into the atmosphere through fabric so you sweat less! Brilliant.
Composition: PUL has 2 sides to it, one side is made from a polyester knit which means it has a slight stretch which is great for clothing as you get a bit of “give”, important when you’re moving around as there’s less chance of a seam giving way under stress. One side of the polyester knit has a laminate coating applied so it’s slippery and shiny; this is the waterproof layer. PUL is a soft flexible fabric which doesn’t really crease and it air dries in super quick time and it doesn’t fray when cut. The PULs we stock contain no lead, phlalates or BPAs so are suitable for products intended for children under 12.
Right or wrong side? : I often get asked if there’s a right or wrong side to PUL and as far as the “waterproof-ness” goes there isn’t really, you can have either side as the right side and it will work just the same. That said, for aesthetic and comfort reasons the knit side is often used as the “right” side as it usually has a pretty pattern or colour and as the laminate side is shiny it’s probably more comfortable to have this away from the skin or it’d be a bit sticky. You can line your garment of course which will overcome this, and cloth nappies usually have an inner fabric which is closest to the skin, or PUL is often used as a shaped wrap which goes around a fitted nappy which has no waterproof layer of its own. In pocket cloth nappies the shiny side is often used as the “right” side simply because it makes stuffing the nappy easier.
Sealing sewing holes: When you sew your needle will leave tiny holes behind in the laminate layer which may affect the waterproof effectiveness of your garment. These holes are easily resealed by either popping your garment in the tumble dryer on low for 20 minutes, or if you are using our own brand Plush Addict White PUL this particular fabric also has “weldable” properties which means it will weld to itself when high heat is applied. You can do this with an impulse sealer but I have many customers who seal their seams using an iron (use a protective layer of fabric or pressing cloth to ensure you don’t end up with a sticky mess on your iron!)
What is Sandwich PUL? As well as single layer PUL we also stock sandwich PUL which works in the same way but instead of being composed of 2 layers of fabric there are 3 layers. The layer of laminate is sandwiched in between 2 layers knit fabric. This is especially helpful if you don’t want to have the shiny laminate side against the skin as it’s hidden away between the knit layers. It’s also stronger so if you are applying a kind of fastener such as KAM snaps, extra reinforcement isn’t required around the fastenings.
Uses: Cloth nappies and wraps, anoraks, waterproof trousers, wet bags, swim bags, changing mats, changing bags, mattress protectors, pillow protectors, baby bibs, picnic blankets, incontinence products, anywhere you need a waterproof, breathable layer.
A special note regarding our own brand of white PUL … we get this manufactured ourselves here in the UK and it has some very special properties:
- It is double laminated which means it lasts longer and is less likely to delaminate over time, especially helpful for high laundry items
- It is weldable which means it welds to itself when very high heat (like an iron) is applied (use a pressing cloth). This seals the seams making them completely waterproof
- It’s fungistatic which (apart from being a brilliant word) means it inhibits the growth of fungi, very helpful when used in a nappy, to line a wet bag or on items such as bibs which may be left wet or damp for some time
Laminated cotton isn’t completely waterproof, but more water resistant so it’s probably not the best choice for a cloth nappy or for something like a wet bag. People lean towards laminated cotton when they’d like to have a natural fibre on one side of the laminated fabric, it’s also thinner and more pliable than PUL. Because it’s a natural fibre that’s BPA free it’s also considered safe to use for foody makes such as lunch bags and sandwich pouches.
Composition: Laminated cotton is another 2 layer fabric where a high quality 100% cotton sheeting has a film of laminate applied to the right side of the fabric. This fabric has much less of a stretch than PUL and is favoured when you’d like a natural fibre as part of your garment rather than polyester. It doesn’t fray when cut. It’s PVC-free, and BPA-free and as such is often a fabric of choice when making items for under 12s or food related. It’s pretty and pliable with a nice hand and drapes well, making it ideal for garments and a plethora of other fabulous items.
Right or wrong side? : The laminate is applied to the right side of the fabric, this means that the wrong side is 100% cotton and so can be comfortably worn against the skin.
Uses: Laminated cotton has a lovely hand and is perfect for use in children’s wear, rain coats, bags, baby bibs, play mats, changing bags, place mats, table cloths, sandwich bags, lunch bags, craft aprons, purses, pencil cases.
Ripstop is the real rufty-tufty of waterproof fabrics that we stock. It’s a nylon threaded material that is pretty resistant to tearing or ripping. It’s so tough and strong it’s used a lot in camping equipment such as tents but it’s also used in things like hang glider wings and hot air balloons… not that I imagine you’ll be making your own hang glider any time soon but it shouldn’t be disregarded as it’s also useful for smaller scale applications around the home and is especially good for the garden and it’s much more economical to buy than some of the other waterproof fabrics. I use it as an under high chair cover to save my floor from toddler food accidents and I didn’t even hem it <gasp!>. Because it’s so durable it’s great for outdoor applications and would make great covers for outdoor furniture or perhaps a BBQ. Bear in mind ripstop isn’t completely waterproof, it’s better than laminated cotton but if wet items are left sitting on it for a long period the wet will seep through. It’s for this reason I think PUL or ProCare are a better choice for wet bags, but for short term wet applications like a swimming bag that just houses soggy togs for a few hours I think it’d be fine. It can be used in clothing but bear in mind it isn’t breathable.
You can see the distinct raised box pattern present in Ripstop
Composition : Ripstop is made by weaving nylon threads together through a base material. It has an interlocking weave which gives it a distinct raised box pattern on the fabric and it’s because of this weave that it’s difficult to tear. It’s not a breathable fabric and it doesn’t have any stretch. It doesn’t really fray when cut. It’s a bit noisier than some of the other fabrics in this genre and has that familiar rustle sound!
Right or wrong side? : the patterned side is the right side, this is for aesthetic rather than performance reasons.
Uses: Boot bags, wet bags (although I believe PUL or ProCare perform much better for this application), rain coats, waterproof trousers, ruck sacks, wash bags, pencil cases, kites, wind breaks, shower curtains, splash mats, table cloths, peg bags, tote bags, changing bags, outdoor bunting, outdoor furniture covering, nappy wallets.
Once upon a time oil cloth was actually a closely woven cotton cloth covered in boiled linseed oil to give it waterproof properties, times have changed and things are a little less messy with today’s oil cloth.
Composition: Oil Cloth is a PVC product and is 100% vinyl and is completely waterproof. It’s very shiny, durable and quite thick so isn’t as pliable and easy to work with as some of the other fabrics in the category. It doesn’t fray when cut. As oil cloth contains phthalates it isn’t intended for projects for children under 12.
Right or wrong side? : the patterned side is the right side, this is for aesthetic rather than performance reasons.
Uses: Table cloths and protectors, bags, pencil cases, book covers, aprons, coin purses, place mats, floor mats, totes, drawer liners, place mats, garden caddies.
ProCare
ProCare is a very durable totally waterproof barrier fabric. It’s more of a functional fabric than one that will add some pretty cheer to your makes but it does have a few special properties. It has a really high laundry tolerance, over 300+ washes the manufacturers claim. It’s also food safe making a great choice for lining a lunch bag or sandwich wrap. ProCare also meets duty, laundering and material safety standards for use in medical and institutional products. ProCare is not breathable.
Composition: ProCare is 25% polyester and 75% vinyl. It has no real stretch and does not shrink. It can be seam welded with an impulse sealer. It’s free of lead, phthalates, BPS or brominates and is FDA GRAS compliant for contact with foods.
Right or wrong side? : One side has more texture than the other but both are quite similar. There is no functional difference when using either side of the fabric.
Uses: Wet bag linings, snack and lunch bags, mattress protection, baby bibs, furniture protection, pet and veterinary pads, changing mats
Alternatively you could make any fabric into a waterproof fabric using Odicoat! We posted a guide all about what it is and how to use it here.
(Grab a cheeky 10% off your next Odicoat order with WATERPROOFME10)
Phew! That is rather a lot to digest but I hope you found it helpful. I’m planning on writing a sewing tips series at some point soon so watch out for some tips on handling these more specialist fabrics too.
Beginners Guide To Reading a Dressmaking Pattern
Please note: there is an updated and improved version of this post here
If and when you decide to venture into the world of creating a garment to wear for yourself or a Santa suit for your pampered pooch this guide will hopefully answer some basic questions. Many of us have learned how to use patterns and sew from a family member or a close friend, and there are many different techniques and shortcuts that people use to make it easier. If however this is not the case for you, pulling out a pattern to create something special can seem very overwhelming. We hope this will help see you through your first simple steps and will make life a little easier.
Fabric choice is important
When you choose the fabric you are going to use, pay close attention to the fabric repeat. This is the way the pattern or print on the fabric is laid out, for instance whether the pattern is large or small scale and also the direction the pattern is running. For instance if you choose a stripe that runs from selvedge to selvedge you may end up with a long skirt with horizontal strips, this may not be the look you’re going for so you may want to choose a stripe that runs the length of the fabric giving you a vertical stripe on your skirt.
Cutting out the pattern pieces
Many patterns will come with multiple sizes printed on them and you will need to cut along the same size line for all of your pieces or the result could be quite interesting. Often you will also be instructed to place the pattern along the “grain line of the fabric“, this is to insure the stretch of the fabric is correct for your project. The placement of the grain line on the pattern is indicated with an arrow along the pattern piece like this
and this will need to be placed on the fabric running parallel to the selvedge.
When using a manufactures pattern it will also give you information on how to lay your fabric out in order to be cut dependent on the size of your fabric. This is generally the best method to follow as it usually makes the most efficient use of the fabric.
Some key information to watch out for when placing pattern pieces before you cut :
1) How the fabric is folded (it’s usually right sides in)
2) Where the selvedge edge lies
3) Whether the right side side of the pattern faces up or down
4) Whether and the right side of fabric faces up or down
To determine these points look for a diagram that looks something like this in your pattern instructions
Looking more closely at the diagram above you will see that pattern piece (2) needs to be cut twice as it appears twice on the cutting diagram, once on the right side of the pattern and again on the wrong side (turning the pattern piece face down). Can you see where this pattern piece is shaded by the dots? This indicates the pattern piece should be laid face down on your fabric. This also shows us its on a folded piece of fabric, but not on a fold, so we will end up with four cut fabric pieces. Pattern piece (1) is placed on the fabric fold so we will end up with only one piece of fabric that’s double the size and mirrored of pattern piece (1). Looking at the second diagram pattern piece (4) shows us to cut it only on one thickness of fabric, once on the right side and once on the wrong side giving us two cut fabric pieces. Your pattern will also contain a guide and a key as to what all of these mean.
Some common pattern marking symbols
Notches
Notches look like this
and often appear on the cut line as single or double triangles (they can be filled or unfilled triangles) and need to be marked on your fabric. Notches will be used to line up two or more separate pattern pieces when constructing your garment. If you have just 1 notch it will line up with another single notch on a separate piece of the pattern and 2 notches with 2. Notches ensure you are sewing 2 separate pattern pieces together at the right point so the garment has the right shape. The best way to mark pattern notches are to cut a reverse notch out of the fabric edge like this:
Fold Line
A fold line marking looks something like this
You will need to place the pattern on the fold line of the fabric so when the fabric piece is cut it will be one piece when un-folded a mirror image of itself. Do not cut along the fold!
Markings for construction details, such as placements or gathering
Often there are small circles marked on the pattern these can be open or filled circles like this
and can indicate a dart position, button placement, bust lines, waist lines or where to lengthen of shorten a pattern. These need to be marked somehow on your fabric pieces and the quickest and easiest way is to use some dress making carbon paper, or you can mark by hand stitching some loose threads through the fabric that can just be pulled out after you have finished.
When we completed the cutting and transferring of the markings from this pattern piece we end up with a result below. You can see we have our notches cut out around the edge and have used thread markings for all our matching points and because we used the fold line you can see how we now have one piece of fabric.
We hope this will give you a basic foundation when it comes to using ready-made patterns, and take some of the fright out of it. There are many different “tricks of the trade” out there but with trial and error you will find your own.