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Washable & Reusable Bin Liner Sewing Tutorial

Washable & Reusable Bin Liner Sewing Tutorial

We’re always looking for new ways to go zero waste here at Plush Towers & one item we have been keen to ditch is the plastic waste-bin liner and we have been looking for a reusable alternative…

As the world, quite rightly, moves away from single use plastic bags that at one time many of us used to line small waste bins we have been pondering what a zero-waste replacement could be. We thought it was time to unleash into the world a tutorial for a reusable & washable waste bin liner!

This washable bin liner is the perfect zero-waste solution for all those light use bins in the bedroom, office or bathroom…

Reusable Bin Liner Sewing Tutorial

 

Anatomy of the washable bin liner

Outer Fabric: We’ve used waterproof PUL as the lining fabric in this project.

Why this fabric you might ask?! We figured it was the perfect fabric choice for handling lightly soiled bathroom items such as cotton pads or ears buds. Choosing waterproof PUL means there there won’t be any unwanted leaks through to the exterior of the bin liner…

It also means if you live with people that insist on chucking away their banana skins in their bedrooms that get buried & forgotten about you won’t get any leaky food waste either, ha!

Lining Fabric: For the liner outer we’ve used calico as it’s economical , but you can use any cotton. This part of the liner generally won’t be seen (unless your bin has lots of hole in it) so this is a great opportunity to use up your stash, or this as a great chance re-purpose or upcycle some other fabric.

Contrast Fabric: We wanted to give you the option to make it pretty so we’ve used a small amount of quilting fabric as an accent to give you the chance to match to your decor, or add a touch of personality to your bin. This fabric is actually part of the lining but appears on the exterior of the bin once folded over.

The whole liner is held securely in place by fold over elastic at the liner’s opening edge.

The method we’ve described in this tutorial would also work perfectly for washing baskets, laundry baskets, nappy bins, kitchen bins… You can use the same method for storage baskets (any size) to prevent leaking, damage, snags & scrapes!

We’re going to show you how to draft a pattern for a circular 3D vessel – in this case your waste bin – which you can apply to a variety of other storage projects! Follow along and you can draft your own pattern to fit any size circular bin or basket.

By using a liner you will be reducing your plastic use and waste, and become more conscious as to what waste you are producing, sewing a sustainable and useful project! 

How to launder your reusable bin liner

  • We recommend that your fabrics are pre-washed before you start this project.
  • This liner is designed for light use waste bins so it can usually be laundered at 30 degrees.
  • If you decide to use it for “messier” bins that might harbour higher bacterial growth, you can launder these fabrics at 60 degrees but it’s imperative you pre-wash everything at that temperature first. Washing consistently at 60 degrees may reduce the life of the cotton fabrics.
  • We recommend air drying this project after laundering. We do not recommend tumble drying PUL as regular tumble drying can delaminate PUL fabric over time.

A sewing project for Adventurous Beginners

Finished Dimensions: Depends on the size of your bin – we used this bin [affiliate link]

With the following dimensions: Dia 25.5cm x H 31cm / Dia 10” x H 12”

Approximate sewing time: An afternoon

Important Notes:

  • Pre-wash your fabrics
  • 1cm ⅜” seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
  • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
  • We have overlocked our seams but if you don’t have an overlocker you can check out this post for other seam finishing ideas
  • When top stitching – use a 3-3.5mm length & stitch approx 3mm from the seam
  • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice
  • RST = Right Sides Together
  • WST = Wrong Sides Together
  • Read through the instructions fully before starting
  • Please note that pins can create permanent holes in PUL. we recommend using clips

You Will Need:

The requirements given below are enough for a similarly sized bin to this bin which measures Diameter 25.5cm x Height 31cm / Diameter 10” x Height 12”

If your bin is a different size draw the pattern out and then calculate what you need from the pattern.

Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

Draw Your Reusable Bin Liner Pattern

  1. Measure & draft the pattern pieces for your bin:

You need to take a few measurements to work out how to draw your pattern pieces. We realised this can seem daunting for some people so we’ve worked hard to make it as accessible and easy to follow as we can.

We’ve put together:

  • A video (below) for those that prefer visual instruction
  • Detailed written instructions & a handy printable which has a calculations table for you to complete with your own bin measurements. Use this for fool proof pattern drafting!
  • A worked example

The video & printable are designed to work together and compliment each other.

Measure your bin

Cutting Out The Fabrics

Cut the following :

  • From Fabric A (Contrast Top): 4 x Contrast Top rectangles
  • From Fabric B (Calico Cotton) : 2 x side panels & 1 x base circle
  • From Fabric C (PUL lining): 2 x sides and 1 x base circle

3. Constructing the reusable bin liner

  • With RST, sew the side seams of the 2 x calico side panels  together, using a 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance
  • Repeat for the PUL side panels
  • Mark the quarter points: On both outer & lining sewn side panels & the base circles, mark ¼ points :
    • On the side panels, fold the fabric on the seam & smooth & fold it across; the seam line is a one-quarter point & the fold crease is another. Bring those points together & smooth the fabric out to the sides; mark where the next 2 folds form.
    • For the base circle, fold it in half, make marks at each end of the fold line. Fold it in half again and mark both layers of fabric where they fold.
  • Take the PUL side panel & base & match up the marked 1/4 points & pin
  • Now pin the fabric between the ¼ points, using the snips to help ease the fabric around the outer edge if you need to. Align the fabric edges & pinning where the seam line will be sewn will help accuracy.
  • Sew in place using a 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance. If you have a walking foot use this as it will help if the fabric is slippery. You could also use your overlocker if you have one.
  • Repeat the same steps on the Calico side panels & base circle
  • Add the contrast panel: Take 2 of the top contrast panels & place RST. At the shorts ends sew in place using a 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance. This will create two fabric “loops”.
  • Repeat for the other 2 top contrast panels. You should now have 2 “loops” in the contrast fabric
  • With RST, pin one top contrast loop to the Calico part of the liner along the top of the exterior bin liner, matching at the seams. Sew in place around the loop.
  • Repeat, sewing the remaining top contrast loop to the the PUL part of the liner.
  • Put the PUL lining of the bin liner, wrong sides together with the Calico exterior. Line up the 2 x top contrast panels, match at the seams & pin. Baste the outer and lining together at the top
  • Attach the fold over elastic: Take your bin and pull the elastic firmly around the part of the bin where the top contrast fold over will sit. Measure where it fits comfortably and then take a few cm off this length so that when in place, the bin liner will fit snugly to the bin & keep the liner in place.

Measure Fold Over Elastic

  • Apply the fold over elastic using your preferred method: Please refer to our post here for detailed instructions on the different methods you can use to apply fold over elastic.

 

DIY Reusable & Washable Bin Liner

 

And you’re finished, well done!

Feeling proud? Show us your makes! Tag us @PlushAddict on your favourite social media channel!

5 PUL Sewing Project Ideas

5 PUL Sewing Project Ideas

Have you ever used PUL fabric before? Ever wondered what type of makes you can sew up with this fabric?

We’ve got a round up of some of our favourite PUL fabric projects that’ll hopefully help you get your sew on!

We also stock a variety of different PUL fabrics and prints to suit all your sewing needs, whether it’s single layer PUL or sandwich PUL, you can buy PUL fabric in the UK from us! 

Whether you’re making a children’s dribble bib, reusable makeup pads or cloth diapers we’re sure to have what you need!

Read on for some waterproof fabric project ideas!

(more…)
Large Wash Bag Tutorial – FREE Pattern

Large Wash Bag Tutorial – FREE Pattern

Sometimes Dads are the trickiest to buy for aren’t they?

On this occasion we thought about going for something practical with that special touch that comes with being handmade. And as an item we all need from time to time, every use will be a little reminder of how much he means to you.

This roomy wash bag is perfect for all dad’s toiletries – it’s big enough for a 2 week holiday! It is 22cm x 17cm x 12cm and lined with waterproof PUL fabric we’ve also given the exterior some Odicoat layers maxing the water repelling properties of this bag. Perfect for splashing around in the shower or by the pool!

A Sewing Project For Adventurous Beginners

You Will Learn:

  • How to apply Odicoat
  • How to sew with PUL
  • How to insert a chunky zip
  • How to sew a boxed corner

You’ll Need:

Want a ready-to-use pattern? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the wash bag pattern.

Pin For Later!

  • Here is our guide on how to sew PUL fabric
  • Here is our guide on how to apply Odicoat

Important Notes & Disclaimers:

  • 1.5cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed otherwise
  • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated
  • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice

Step 1 – Apply The Odicoat

Before cutting, in case of shrinkage, apply the Odicoat to the right side of the outer fabric: Place your fabric right side up on a covered surface (greaseproof paper or plastic sheeting are ideal).

 

Step 2

Print the pattern and cut it out.

IMPORTANT: Use the 1” test square to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check print settings. Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the ‘fit to page’ option.

The main pattern piece prints over 4 pages. Match the coloured circles up with their counterpart and sellotape together. Here’s a video explaining it should you not be familiar with putting together PDF patterns

Step 3 Cut your fabrics

Using the pattern pieces cut out the following transfering notches onto all pieces:

  • 2 x Outer fabric
  • 2 x Lining fabric
  • 2 x interfacing

Also:

  • 1 Strap from outer fabric
  • 2 Tabs from outer fabric

Step 4

Clip the sew in interfacing onto the wrong side of each outer piece.

Step 5

Baste the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric all the way round with a 5mm seam allowance.

Sew The Strap

Step 6

Fold the strap piece in half lengthways and press.

Step 7

Fold the raw edges to the crease and press again.

Step 8

Topstitch along the 2 long edges, 2mm from the edge.

Sew The Tabs

Step 9

Fold in 1cm along the long edges and press.

Step 10

Fold the tab in half so the short edges are aligned, raw edges inside and press.

Step 11

Topstitch around 3 sides 2mm from the edge, leaving the bottom edge open.

How To Sew A Chunky Zip

Step 12

Check the zip works. Fold the top 2 tape ends at 45 degree angles.

Sew a few stitches along the outer edge of the zip tape to hold them in place.

Step 13

With one outer piece right side up, align the zip with the top edge, right side down.

The zip bar positioned by the notch. Clip the zip in place.

Step 14

Baste close to the outer edge of the zipper tape, between the notches.

Step 15

Place a PUL lining piece smooth side down, lined up with the outer piece; sandwiching the zip between the two.

Clip along the top edge

Step 16

Using a zipper foot, sew between the notches with a 5mm seam allowance.

*If the PUL moves too much, hand baste before sewing or use a walking foot*

Pin For Later!

Step 17

Open out the lining and outer pieces with the zip overlapping the lining, seam allowances underlapping the outer.

Top stitch between the notches on the outer fabric side (1.5cm from each end); Using a zipper foot sew along the outer fabric 2mm from the folded edge nearest the zip.

Step 18

Repeat steps 14. To 17. on the other side of the zip using the corresponding pieces.

Want a ready-to-use pattern? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the wash bag pattern.

Step 19

Open the zip halfway.

Open out the fabrics either side of the zip; aligning outer fabrics to one side and linings the other.

Clip the bottom edges together, leaving a 10cm turning gap in the lining fabric.

 

Step 20

Sew along the bottom edges, leaving the opening un-sewn.

Step 21

Press the seam allowance open on the outer fabric only.

Gently pull the outer and lining side panels outwards, allowing the bottom seams to line up with the zip then smooth/ flatten the fabric out either side.

Step 22

At each end of the zip, position a tab between the notches in the 2 layers of the outer fabric only.

Align the raw edges and clip in place, matching up the seam and zip ends, seam allowances open.

 

Step 23

Smooth the fabric out to either side of the tab and clip the raw edges of the outer fabric together.

Step 24

Sew along each side of the outer fabric only to secure the tab in place.

Backstitching over the tab for reinforcement and taking care near the zip ends.

*When sewing near the end of the zip/ across the teeth, the material may need moving forward manually to create a longer stitch: Sew to the side of the zipper teeth, raise the needle, lift the presser foot and move the fabric enough for the needle to enter the fabric on the other side of the zipper teeth. Reverse this step to go back over the zipper then come forward again to give added strength.*

Caution: trying to sew through the chunky zipper teeth can break the machine needle, which may result in injury

Step 25

Follow steps 22. to 24. for the lining fabric, disregarding the tab directions.

Move the outer fabric to one side but not the zip tape, to avoid gaps in the finished bag.

How To Box Out The Corners

Step 26

Starting at the top end of the outer fabric (where the zip pull sits when the bag is closed).

Make a mark where the fabric creases on the outermost edge.

Step 27

Open out the corner and align the seam with the mark.

Step 28

Thread the strap into the corner until only the end is visible.

Step 29

Position the end of the strap between the notches, raw edge aligned with the edges of the formed corner from step 36.

Clip the strap in position, then smooth out the fabric either side and clip.

Reach through the opening in the lining and open the zip fully.

Working through the opening, guide the other end of the strap to the adjacent corner at the top of the bag.

Step 30

Repeat steps 26. to 29. checking the strap isn’t twisted.

Step 31

Repeat steps 26. to 29. on the remaining 2 corners in the outer fabric and the 4 in the lining fabric, disregarding the strap directions.

Step 32

Sew along the corners.

Step 33

Turn the bag out the right way.

Step 34

Sew the gap in the lining closed.

 

And you’re finished, well done!

Want a ready-to-use pattern? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the wash bag pattern.

Pin For Later!

We hope you found this tutorial useful! Let us know how you get along in the comments below.

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials!

A Quick Guide To PUL Fabric

A Quick Guide To PUL Fabric

What Is PUL Fabric?

So, what is PUL fabric? Or  polyurethane laminate – apart from being a mouthful!?

Polyurethane laminate can be abbreviated to PUL fabric.

PUL is special… It’s a waterproof AND breathable fabric!

Why is this important?

Well, it means if you make waterproof items of clothing your body heat has a better chance of escaping into the atmosphere!

Heat escapes THROUGH the fabric – so you “glow” less.

It’s pretty brilliant!

 

 

Composition of PUL Fabric

PUL has 2 sides.

One side is a polyester knit, so has a slight stretch which is great for clothing.

The other side has a laminate coating applied.

It’s slippery and shiny – this is the waterproof bit.

  • PUL is soft & flexible
  • It doesn’t really crease
  • It air dries in super quick time
  • It’s safe – there’s no lead, phthalates or BPA

Never miss a tutorial or fabric guide…

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What is Sandwich PUL

As well as single layer PUL we also stock sandwich PUL which works in the same way but instead of being composed of 2 layers of fabric there are 3 layers. The layer of laminate is sandwiched in between 2 layers knit fabric. This is especially helpful if you don’t want to have the shiny laminate side against the skin as it’s hidden away between the knit layers. It’s also stronger so if you are applying a kind of fastener such as KAM snaps, extra reinforcement isn’t required around the fastenings.

Uses: Cloth nappies and wraps, anoraks, waterproof trousers, wet bags, swim bags, changing mats, changing bags, mattress protectors, pillow protectors, baby bibs, picnic blankets, incontinence products, anywhere you need a waterproof, breathable layer.

Is there a right or wrong side?

We ALWAYS get asked this.

Is there a right side to ensure “waterproof-ness”?

There isn’t really, it’s a personal preference.

The fabric will be waterproof no matter which side you choose, so go with the look that pleases you most!

That said, for aesthetic & comfort reasons I usually use the knit side as the “right” side most often.

It’s more comfy if your project will be close to the skin.

Tips for sewing with PUL fabric

✂️  Needle: Use a stretch needle

✂️  Stitch Length: Use 3mm stitch length

✂️  Machine Foot: A walking foot is helpful. If your machine foot is sticking then you can apply a bit of Scotch Magic Tape to the base of your normal machine foot

✂️  Thread Type: Polyester thread is recommended to match the fabric composition

✂️  Sealing sewing holes: When you sew your needle will leave tiny holes behind in the laminate layer which MAY affect the waterproof effectiveness of your garment.

These holes are easily resealed … either:

✂️ Pop your garment in the tumble dryer on low for 20 minutes

✂️ Or if you’re using our White PUL it’s weldable so just iron it (using a pressing cloth!) and the holes will seal!

❤️  A special note regarding our own brand of white PUL … we get this manufactured ourselves here in the UK & it has some very special properties:

☔ Its waterproof YET breathable

☔ Its medical grade

☔ Its weldable giving you a completely sealed seam (Look! No leaks!)

☔ Its fungistatic which – apart from being a brilliant word – means it inhibits the growth of fungi & bacteria ?

☔ Its double laminated – whaaaat’s that?! It means it lasts longer & is less likely to delaminate over time as it’s washed loads

☔ Its fire retardant

Uses For PUL Fabric

Love the sound of PUL? So where can you use it?! Well… anywhere you need a waterproof layer really…. here’s some handy projects on our blog!

Other ideas include….

 

  • Waterproof trousers
  • Wet bags
  • Cloth Nappies (We have a guide all about these here)
  • Changing mats
  • Changing bags
  • Picnic blankets
  • Pillow protectors
  • Incontinence products
  • Cloth sanitary protection

 

Have you sewn with PUL fabric? Have you got any tips to share?

Never miss a tutorial or fabric guide…

Stay up to date with the latest by signing up to our newsletter!

Click to join our mailing list!

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials!

A Waterproof Fabric Guide

A Waterproof Fabric Guide

Following on from my popular post about the fabric possibilities for dribble bibs I thought it would be a good idea to run a  series of these posts to talk about the other more specialist fabrics we stock in the Plush Addict Shop. We get lots of questions about which is the best waterproof fabric to use for a particular type of garment or handmade item so I figured this would be the next one in line for a bit of (hopefully!) helpful blurb.

We presently stock 5 main types of waterproof fabric and I’ll take each one in turn

PUL, or polyurethane laminate

PUL is a bit of a special kind of waterproof fabric as it has the marvellous magic properties of being waterproof, but breathable. So why is this important? Well it’s very special because it means you can make waterproof items of clothing and cloth nappies and your body heat has a better chance of escaping into the atmosphere through fabric so you sweat less! Brilliant.

Composition: PUL has 2 sides to it, one side is made from a polyester knit which means it has a slight stretch which is great for clothing as you get a bit of “give”, important when you’re moving around as there’s less chance of a seam giving way under stress. One side of the polyester knit has a laminate coating applied so it’s slippery and shiny; this is the waterproof layer. PUL is a soft flexible fabric which doesn’t really crease and it air dries in super quick time and  it doesn’t fray when cut. The PULs we stock contain no lead, phlalates or BPAs so are suitable for products intended for children under 12.

Right or wrong side? : I often get asked if there’s a right or wrong side to PUL and as far as the “waterproof-ness” goes there isn’t really, you can have either side as the right side and it will work just the same. That said, for aesthetic and comfort reasons the knit side is often used as the “right” side as it usually has a pretty pattern or colour and as the laminate side is shiny it’s probably more comfortable to have this away from the skin or it’d be a bit sticky. You can line your garment of course which will overcome this, and cloth nappies usually have an inner fabric which is closest to the skin, or PUL is often used as a shaped wrap which goes around a fitted nappy which has no waterproof layer of its own. In pocket cloth nappies the shiny side is often used as the “right” side simply because it makes stuffing the nappy easier.

Sealing sewing holes: When you sew your needle will leave tiny holes behind in the laminate layer which may affect the waterproof effectiveness of your garment. These holes are easily resealed by either popping your garment in the tumble dryer on low for 20 minutes, or if you are using our own brand Plush Addict White PUL this particular fabric also has “weldable” properties which means it will weld to itself when high heat is applied. You can do this with an impulse sealer but I have many customers who seal their seams using an iron (use a protective layer of fabric or pressing cloth to ensure you don’t end up with a sticky mess on your iron!)

What is Sandwich PUL?  As well as single layer PUL we also stock sandwich PUL which works in the same way but instead of being composed of 2 layers of fabric there are 3 layers. The layer of laminate is sandwiched in between 2 layers knit fabric. This is especially helpful if you don’t want to have the shiny laminate side against the skin as it’s hidden away between the knit layers. It’s also stronger so if you are applying a kind of fastener such as KAM snaps, extra reinforcement isn’t required around the fastenings.

Uses: Cloth nappies and wraps, anoraks, waterproof trousers, wet bags, swim bags, changing mats, changing bags, mattress protectors, pillow protectors, baby bibs, picnic blankets, incontinence products, anywhere you need a waterproof, breathable layer.

A special note regarding our own brand of white PUL … we get this manufactured ourselves here in the UK and it has some very special properties:

  1. It is double laminated which means it lasts longer and is less likely to delaminate over time, especially helpful for high laundry items
  2. It is weldable which means it welds to itself when very high heat (like an iron) is  applied (use a pressing cloth). This seals the seams making them completely waterproof
  3. It’s fungistatic which (apart from being a brilliant word) means it inhibits the growth of fungi, very helpful when used in a  nappy, to line a wet bag  or on items such as bibs which may be left wet or damp for some time

Laminated Cotton

Laminated cotton isn’t  completely waterproof, but more water resistant so it’s probably not the best choice for a cloth nappy or for something like a wet bag. People lean towards laminated cotton when they’d like to have a natural fibre on one side of the laminated fabric, it’s also thinner and more pliable than PUL. Because it’s a natural fibre that’s BPA free it’s also considered safe to use for foody makes such as lunch bags and sandwich pouches.

Composition: Laminated cotton is another 2 layer fabric where a high quality 100% cotton sheeting has a film of laminate applied to the right side of the fabric. This fabric has much less of a stretch than PUL and is favoured when you’d like  a natural fibre as part of your garment rather than polyester. It doesn’t fray when cut. It’s PVC-free, and BPA-free and as such is often a fabric of choice when making items for under 12s or food related. It’s pretty and pliable with a nice hand and drapes well, making it ideal for garments and a plethora of other fabulous items.

Right or wrong side? : The laminate is applied to the right side of the fabric, this means that the wrong side is 100% cotton and so can be comfortably worn against the skin.

Uses: Laminated cotton has a lovely hand and is perfect for use in children’s wear, rain coats, bags, baby bibs, play mats, changing bags, place mats, table cloths, sandwich bags, lunch bags, craft aprons, purses, pencil cases.

Ripstop

Ripstop is the real rufty-tufty of waterproof fabrics that we stock. It’s a nylon threaded material that is pretty resistant to tearing or ripping. It’s so tough and strong it’s used a lot in camping equipment such as tents but it’s also used in things like hang glider wings and hot air balloons… not that I imagine you’ll be making your own hang glider any time soon but it shouldn’t be disregarded as it’s also useful for smaller scale applications around the home and is especially good for the garden and it’s much more economical to buy than some of the other waterproof fabrics. I use it as an under high chair cover to save my floor from toddler food accidents and I didn’t even hem it <gasp!>. Because it’s so durable it’s great for outdoor applications and would make great  covers for outdoor furniture or perhaps a BBQ. Bear in mind ripstop isn’t completely waterproof, it’s better than laminated cotton but if wet items are left sitting on it for a long period the wet will seep through. It’s for this reason  I think PUL or ProCare are a better choice for wet bags, but for short term wet applications like a swimming bag that just houses soggy togs for a few hours I think it’d be fine. It can be used in clothing but bear in mind it isn’t breathable.

You can see the distinct raised box pattern present in Ripstop

Composition : Ripstop is made by weaving nylon threads together through a base material. It has an interlocking weave which gives it a distinct raised box pattern on the fabric and it’s because of this  weave that it’s difficult to tear. It’s not a breathable fabric and it doesn’t have any stretch. It doesn’t really fray when cut. It’s a bit noisier than some of the other fabrics in this genre and has that familiar rustle sound!

Right or wrong side? : the patterned side is the right side, this is for aesthetic rather than performance reasons.

Uses: Boot bags, wet bags (although I believe PUL or ProCare perform much better for this application), rain coats, waterproof trousers, ruck sacks, wash bags, pencil cases, kites, wind breaks, shower curtains, splash mats, table cloths, peg bags, tote bags, changing bags, outdoor bunting, outdoor furniture covering, nappy wallets.

Once upon a time oil cloth was actually a closely woven cotton cloth covered in boiled linseed oil to give it waterproof properties,  times have changed and things are a little less messy with today’s oil cloth.

Composition: Oil Cloth is a PVC product and is 100% vinyl and is completely waterproof. It’s very shiny, durable and quite thick so isn’t as pliable and easy to work with as some of the other fabrics in the category. It doesn’t fray when cut. As oil cloth contains phthalates it isn’t intended for projects for children under 12.

Right or wrong side? : the patterned side is the right side, this is for aesthetic rather than performance reasons.

Uses: Table cloths and protectors, bags, pencil cases, book covers, aprons, coin purses, place mats, floor mats, totes, drawer liners, place mats, garden caddies.

ProCare

ProCare  is a very durable totally waterproof barrier fabric. It’s more of a functional fabric than one that will add some pretty cheer to your makes but it does have a few special properties. It has a really high laundry tolerance, over 300+ washes the manufacturers claim. It’s also food safe making a great choice for lining a lunch bag or sandwich wrap. ProCare also meets duty, laundering and material safety standards for use in medical and institutional products. ProCare is not breathable.

Composition: ProCare is 25% polyester and 75% vinyl. It has no real stretch and does not shrink. It can be seam welded with an impulse sealer. It’s free of lead,  phthalates, BPS or brominates and is FDA GRAS compliant for contact with foods.

Right or wrong side? : One side has more texture than the other but both are quite similar. There is no functional difference when using either side of the fabric.

Uses: Wet bag linings, snack and lunch bags, mattress protection, baby bibs, furniture protection, pet and veterinary pads, changing mats

Odicoat

Alternatively you could make any fabric into a waterproof fabric using Odicoat! We posted a guide all about what it is and how to use it here.

(Grab a cheeky 10% off your next Odicoat order with WATERPROOFME10)

Phew! That is rather a lot to digest but I hope you found it helpful. I’m planning on writing a sewing tips series at some point soon so watch out for some tips on handling these more specialist fabrics too.