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Sew Your Own Appliquéd Christmas Bunting Tutorial

Sew Your Own Appliquéd Christmas Bunting Tutorial

Deck the halls with boughs of holly, tra la la la!

There’s still time to top up your bank of Christmas memories & sew some fun festive bunting for the family to enjoy year after year…

This easy project is a brilliant little scrap buster. We’ve provided some cute (and FREE!) appliqué templates for you which can can request here

We’ve gone to town with the applique shapes & you can choose from Rudolf, a Christmas tree, present, a stocking, some holly, a bell, a gingerbread man, a bauble, a star – will you use them all?!

We’ve also suggested 2 finishes for your flags – pinked & stitched or turned & top stitched… choose whichever tickles your festive pickle!

We have used calico for the bunting flags- it’s economical & a great neutral background to showcase any colour scheme to help your scraps sing!

You Will Need:

Make life easier with:

A sewing project for : Beginners

Approximate sewing time: Sew it in an afternoon!

Important Notes:

  • ¼” (0.5mm) seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise directed.
  • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
  • When topstitching – use a 3-3.5mm length & stitch approx 3mm from the seam
  • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice
  • Read through the instructions fully before starting  

Request the templates:

[mailerlite_form form_id=5]

Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

Make it easier with:

Pin For Later!

Important Notes:

  • 1.5cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
  • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
  • When topstitching – use a 3-3.5mm length & stitch approx 3mm from the seam
  • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice
  • Read through the instructions fully before starting 

Sew Christmas Bunting

The template pieces we have put together can be downloaded above.

If you have a laminator laminate your template pieces as it will make it easier to trace around them. Cut out your template pieces.

  1. Cut a 25cm strip of calico and mark your flags as shown in the photo. Cut along your marked lines to create your flags.

Top tip: Use a pinking blade in your rotary cutter for an attractive rustic finish.

2. Prepare your appliqué pieces by tracing round your appliqué shapes on the smooth side of the Bondaweb paper ensuring you leave a few millimetres around the outline when you cut them out.

3. Iron your Bondaweb shape to the wrong side of your fabric and then cut along your drawn outline line.

4. Score the paper of your Bondaweb with a pin and carefully tear off the paper revealing the adhesive

Pin For Later!

5. Iron your appliqué pieces onto your fabric flags taking care to place the layers of the appliqué in the correct order.

6. Carefully stitch around the edge of your appliqué. Popular choices of stitch are blanket stitch (pictured) zig-zag stitch and running stitch but you could use others depending on the look you are after.

7. Decide the look of your finished flags and choose the appropriate next step.

8. Turned & topstitched: With right sides together stitch your flag with a 5mm seam allowance. Closely trim the point of your flag and turn the right way. Press and topstitch.

Pinked & Stitched: With wrong sides together stitch your flag with a 5mm seam allowance.

9. Iron your bias binding in half which will make stitching it easier.

Place your flags at equal intervals along the bias binding (ours were approx 10cm apart) placing the flags within the fold of the bias binding and pin or use Wonder Clips (which make this part *much* easier) and sew.

And you’re finished, well done!

We hope you enjoyed this tutorial and have a wonderful Christmas!

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How To Make Your Own Pyjamas: Part 2

How To Make Your Own Pyjamas: Part 2

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Hello Seam-Stars! Thanks for joining me again for the second post in our “Make your own Pyjama Bottoms” series

Yesterday’s post gave you instructions on how to make your pyjama bottom pattern. If you’ve not done that yet – you need to hop over and make your pattern pieces – otherwise this post won’t make any sense at all!

Don’t be daunted… there are videos and everything!

In this post we’re going to talk about the fabrics you can use to make your own pyjama bottoms, as well as a sewing tutorial on how to sew them up once you have created your pattern

Supplies you will need:

 

    Sewing Kit You Will Need:

    Choosing fabric to make pyjama bottoms

    You can use a number of different fabrics to make PJs… In our sewing tutorial we’ve used flannel fabric – and for good reason… It’s a perfect fabric choice! But not the only one…

    Firstly, think about the fabric weight you’d like – you can both use lightweight or slightly heavier weight fabrics when making pyjamas – the season will determine the best choice for your garment.

    We would definitely recommend natural, breathable fabrics over manmade fabrics for PJS. The exception here is manmade fleece which would be a good choice in very cold weather.

    Here are our top picks for fabrics suitable for pyjamas

     

    1. Flannel fabric: We LOVE flannel fabric for making pyjamas… It would be our first choice. It’s soft, warm, cosy, an easy sew & breathable – perfect for PJs! If you’re not really sure what flannel fabric is then check out our Fabric Guide To Flannel for the full low down
    2. Quilting cotton: There’s a mind boggling choice of funky designs available in quilting cotton so you can make a garment that’s really bespoke & individual. It’s easy & stable to sew, as well as being breathable. The only downer might be the drape with some quilt cottons – some brands can be a little stiff.
    3. Jersey – Really comfy for PJ bottoms as they stretch when you do… if you know what I mean 😉 Natural fibre jersey is the best choice. Stretch fabric does require a little special handling and a stretch or ballpoint needle is required.
    4. Cotton lawn : Cotton lawn would make a great fabric choice for PJs – it’s lighter weight than regular quilting cotton & better suited for summer PJs. Soft, stable, better drape & breathable. Read our Guide To Cotton Lawn for more info about this fave fabric.
    5. Viscose: if you’re after something that has loads of drape & will result in a floaty pair of PJs then viscose is a good choice BUT viscose is rather slippery to sew. If you’re a beginner Seam-Star you would be best off trying one of the other fabric choices first to save swear words. Read our viscose tips and you can decide if it’s for you…
    6. Fleece: The season has to be right for fleece fabric pyjamas. Most (but not all) fleece is made from polyester and if you wear fleece in bed when it’s too warm you’re going to end up “glowing” in your new bottoms! Read all about fleece fabric here

    DisclaimerA note on sleepwear for children – We don’t advise making children’s nightwear, unless you source specially treated, fire resistant textiles. Many fabrics do not meet the fire retardancy requirements to be safe for children’s nightwear required under UK law

    So once you’ve decided what fabric you’d like, you need to make sure you have all the supplies!

    Sewing your pyjama bottoms

    Important Notes:

    • 1cm /  ⅜” seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
    • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice.
    • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
    • We have used an overlocker to finish the seams & prevent fraying, but you can refer to this post if you do not have an overlocker for alternative seam finishing methods.
    • RST = Right Sides Together.
    • WST = Wrong Sides Together.
    • Read through the instructions fully before starting.

    Cutting Your fabrics & notions

    Cut out your prepared paper pattern, including the seam allowances.

    You may wish to transfer the paper pattern to manilla template card for easier tracing or if you think you will make multiple pairs of pyjamas.

    Alternatively trace the final pattern pieces more neatly & boldly on a fresh piece of pattern paper if your original pattern is a little scruffy.

    Cutting Out:

    From The Flannel Fabric Cut: 

    1 x Mirrored Pair of trouser fronts from your prepared pattern

    1 x Mirrored Pair of trouser backs from your prepared pattern

    1 x Length of elastic that fits your waist measurement

    Sewing together the pyjama bottoms
    1. Place one front leg & one back leg RST . Pin down the long outer edge & sew. Overlock/ seam finish as desired (check out our post here for more info on seam finishing without an overlocker).

    2. Then, with RST, pin down the lower inner leg, not including the crotch & sew this together. Overlock/finish as desired.

    You should now have two legs sewn at the side seams

    3. Line up the trousers along the crotch RST. Match the centre seams and pin in place all along the crotch seam.

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    4. Sew along the crotch seam, and overlock/finish as desired.

    5. Press up the hem allowance first 0.5cm, then 1.5cm

     

    6. Hem by hand or by machine using a straight stitch. Repeat for both legs.

    7. Press the waistband casing over by 0.5cm, then 2.5cm

    8. Pin and stitch in place, leaving a 5cm gap to insert your elastic.

    9. Insert your elastic, guiding it using the safety pin secured to one end.

    10. Zig zag stitch the two ends of the elastic together, and slip this joined end into the elastic casing.

    11. Sew the remainder of the casing channel closed, being careful not to catch the elastic.

    12. If you want to add a decorative bow, cut a length of ribbon approximately 60/70cm long. Fold over the ends and stitch in place.

    13. Mark the midpoint. Pin this to the centre front seam on your waistband. Stitch in place.

    14. Tie in a bow!

    And you’re finished, well done!

    If you make a pair of trousers please let us know if the comments!

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    What are Continuous Zips? A Product Guide

    What are Continuous Zips? A Product Guide

    Ever wondered what a continuous zip is?

    Does adding a zip pull to zip tape seem daunting?

    We’re here to help!

    Here at Plush Addict we offer a huuuuge selection of zips for sewing to help your projects achieve the look you dreamt of!

    Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

    With zipper tape choices ranging from rainbow to block colour… flat to flowery zip pulls, we’re sure to have something for your next project.

    Read on for more info about what a continuous zip is, and why you might want to use one instead of a regular zip

    Then… see our tutorial on how to add zip pulls to continuous zip tape… We’ve provided you with a photo tutorial, as well as a video demo at the end…

    What is a continuous zip?

     

    Continuous zips differ from others in that the zipper tape is sold by the metre, without zip pulls. This means you are able cut your zip to ANY size you like. It also means you can add TWO zipper pulls, cos… ya know… you have to love that look.

    What are the benefits of a continuous zip?

     

    Waste less: As you just use the amount of zip tape you need there is an environmental benefit to continuous zipper tape; with a little planning waste can be kept to a minimum and a length, with enough pulls ordered, can become multiple zips.

    Any length: Cutting zip tape to size means you can have REALLY long zips!

    Multiple zip pulls: It also means you can add TWO zipper pulls to your tape, giving you a funky zip just like this one

    Greater personalisation – you can mix and match the zip tape and zip pulls to your heart’s desire

    Looking for info on other zip types? Then check out our Zip Types Guide Post

    Photo Tutorial: How To Attach Zipper Pulls to Zipper Tape

     

     

    You will need:

    We used:


    Important notes

    • Some zip tape comes with a pull/ slider, check the item description for details.
    • When ordering zip pulls check they correspond with the tape size/ brand being purchased.

    Method

    1. Cut the tape to the required length. Use domestic scissors to cut through the teeth.

    2. Pull the bottom 10cm of the zipper teeth apart.

    3. With the back of the zip pull and back of the tape facing upwards thread 1 end of the tape into the zipper from the top. To make this easier angle the teeth into the pull from the side.

    4. Repeat step 4. on the other side. Both sets of teeth want to sit toward the top of the clasp.

    5. Keeping the 2 sides of teeth level with each other, hold the zip pull between one finger/ thumb then draw the 2 sides of the tape down through the pull with the other hand. The zip pull should then begin to move up the tape.

    Alternatively, you may find it easier to place the zipper pull between the prongs of a fork (check out the video below!)

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    6. Slide the pull toward the top of the tape (without coming off the other end) then pull it back down to check the zip works.

    7. If 2 zip pulls are required, repeat steps 1. To 5. from the other end of the tape.

    And you’re done!

     

    Handy Hint

     

    If you find yourself struggling using this method try using a fork to hold the zip pull for you: tuck the bar of the zip between the central teeth (not the clasp where the teeth need to go).

    …And if your fork won’t stay still; hold it steady with a blob of blue-tack.

    Video Tutorial: How To Attach Zipper Pulls to Zipper Tape

    Check out our video on how to attach zipper pulls to continuous zipper tape

    Want to learn how to sew a zip in?

     

    Find our tutorial on the blog where you can learn how to sew a cushion with piping and a zip or why not try making this reading cushion?

    We hope you found this tutorial useful!

    Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

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    New pattern alert! 🚨 Wanna make your own custom IKEA KALLAX storage boxes?

    New pattern alert! 🚨 Wanna make your own custom IKEA KALLAX storage boxes?

    Do you have cube storage units around your home? We absolutely love them here at The Studio, crammed full of haberdashery goodness!

    Ikea Kallax Fabric Storage Box

    Ready made storage boxes can be quite boring & might not match the decor in your home. We were super excited to team up with Makower to bring you the pattern for these beautiful boxes!

    Ikea Kallax Storage Boxes

     

    Fabric Storage Boxes

    It’s a completely free pattern available to download and is suitable for IKEA Kallax unit and lots of other cube furniture out there, measuring 12 ½” x 14 ½” x 12 ½”. 

     

    PInterest Sew Your Own Fabric Storage Box

    Even if you don’t have the cube storage units, they’re a great storage solution for any shelving for toys, magazines, anything you can think of!

     

    The boxes are super sturdy as they have Buckram inside and even have a little PVC label pouch at the front so you can be super organised! If you’re worried about sewing a huge cube, don’t worry! It has a flip up base to make it easier to manage on your sewing machine.  

    We have put together a kit with all of the bits and pieces you need to make the storage box or if you’d LOVE to use the fabrics we used, we have Henna available on the website too.

    Loving the fabrics we used? Henna is a brand new Makower fabric collection featuring bold blooms and geometric prints. Designed by Beth Studley, these fabrics are inspired by Henna body art and feature mandalas, florals and chevrons. The bold colours are sure to make a statement on any project!

    We can’t wait to see your storage boxes and what you make with Makower’s Henna collection!

    Free Pattern For A Water Bottle Carrier

    ♻️ Hands up if you’re trying to reduce your plastic waste! Ditching plastic bottles of water in favour of a refillable water bottle is a no-brainer, right? Then you’ll need our free pattern for a water bottle carrier, for sure!

    And our pattern is really cleverly crafted too!

    We’ve designed this water bottle carrier with children in mind… so us grown-ups can feel less like a cart-horse & empower the youngsters to carry their own water 💦  

    The clever thing about this pattern is the multi-way strap – kids can carry their water on their scooter, their book bag OR wear it cross-body

    Watch the multi-way strap in action to see what we mean below

    AND the wadding we’ve chosen is amazingly effective – we’ve used Insul-Bright – a  Thermal Insulated Wadding which will help to keep water bottles cooler for longer… 

    And – let’s face it –  it’s not just for kids… Grown-ups would love one too!

    You can feel proud of your sewing prowess, whilst helping the planet at the same time!

    Free Pattern For A Water Bottle Carrier

    Free Pattern For A Water Bottle Carrier

    A sewing project for: A Confident Beginner

    Finished Dimensions: 19cm x 9cm approx (excluding strap). This carrier is sized to fit a water bottle with a 23cm circumference and fits most water bottles we tried

    Sewing Time: Sew in an afternoon

    Need to know:

    • 1cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
    • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5mm unless otherwise stated.
    • When topstitching – use a 3-3.5mm length & stitch approx 3mm from the seam
    • Prepare your fabrics as per the manufacturer’s care advice
    • WST = Wrong Sides Together
    • RST = Right Sides Together
    • Read through the instructions fully before starting  

    Disclaimer: Strangulation hazard: Children must be supervised at all times.

    Request The Free Pattern For A Water Bottle Carrier here:

    Item:Amount required:We used
    Fabric A: Cotton fabric for Outer Top Contrast1 Fat QuarterFabrics from the Acorn Wood Collection
    Fabric B: Cotton fabric for Outer Main1 Fat QuarterFabrics from the Acorn Wood Collection
    Fabric C: Cotton fabric for Lining1 Fat QuarterFabrics from the Acorn Wood Collection
    Fabric D: Insul-Bright 40cm x 50cmInsul-Bright 
    25mm Webbing2m25mm Cotton Canvas webbing
    25mm Slide buckle/ Glide buckle1Hemline Slide Buckle
    25mm Dog hooks/ swivel clips (20mm will also be ok) We used2Metal Heart Shaped Swivel Clip
    25mm D rings2Metal D-Rings
    KAM snaps size 202 setsKAM snaps

    Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

    Make Life Easier With

    Firstly, grab your Free Pattern For A Water Bottle Carrier here

    1) Request , Print & Cut Out The Free Pattern For A Water Bottle Carrier

    1. Use the 1” test square to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check print settings. Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the “Fit to page” option.

    Using the pattern pieces as templates pin & cut out the following from the fabrics *: 

    From Fabric A: 

    • 1 x Outer Top Contrast*

    From Fabric B: 

    • 1 x Outer Main*
    • 1 x Base Circle

    From Fabric C: 

    • 1 x Lining Main*
    • 1 x Base Circle

    From Fabric D ( Insul-Bright Insulated Wadding):

    • 1 x  Lining Main
    • 1 x Base Circle

    * For directional fabrics the shorter edge on the pattern pieces runs top to bottom of the finished carrier

    2) Transfer the pattern markings  

    It’s time to sew!
    1. Align the bottom edge of the outer top contrast piece with the top edge of the Outer Main piece right sides together & pin
    2. Sew, then press the seam allowance open

    3. Draw a line 1cm up from the bottom of the outer & lining pieces on the wrong side

    Baste the Insul-Bright

    1. 4. Baste the Insul-Bright main panel to the wrong side of the sewn outer panel, aligning at the top edge. The Insul-Bright should be 1cm shorter than the outer panel 
    2. 5. Baste the Insul-Bright in place around the top and 2 sides, 5mm from the edge. Do not baste along the bottom edge.
    3. 6. Baste the Insul-bright base onto the lining fabric base. NB: basting the Insul-Bright base to the lining & side to the outer panel makes sewing a small circle easier

    Assemble the side panels

    1. 7. Fold the lining panel in half bringing the short side edges RST & pin
    2. 8. Sew the side seam, leaving a 10cm opening for turning
    3. 9. Repeat steps 7 & 8 for the outer panel, but omit the turning gap

     10. Trim back the Insul-bright bulk. Press the seam allowances on the outer & lining panels open.

    11) On both the lining & outer panels snip around the bottom edges; make cuts that stop 2mm from the 1cm marked line, approx 1cm apart

    Add the base circles to the outer & lining side panels

    12) On both outer & lining pieces, mark ¼ points on the base circles & bottom edges
    of the side panels:
    a) On the side panels, fold the fabric on the seam & smooth & fold it across;
    the seam line is a one-quarter point & the fold crease is another. Bring
    those points together & smooth the fabric out to the sides; mark where the
    next 2 folds form.
    b) For the base circle, fold it in half, make marks at each end of the fold line.
    Fold it in half again and mark both layers of fabric where they fold.
    13) One at a time, match up the quarter points on the side panels & base circles & pin
    14) Pin the fabric between the ¼ points, using the snips to help ease the fabric
    around the outer edge. Aligning the fabric edges & pinning where the seam line will be sewn will help accuracy.

    15) Sew the base circles in place. Dropping your stitch length to 2mm will help you
    sew the curve. Keep adjusting the fabric on your sewing machine to ensure you don’t
    sew in any puckers.
    16) Trim back any Insul-Bright in a seam to reduce bulk
    17) Turn outer piece right side out

    Add the straps to the water bottle carrier

    18) Cut 2 x 32cm (12 ½ “) lengths
    of webbing
    19) At one end of each length,
    Create a double fold – turn over 1cm, then another 1cm & sew to hem with a longer stitch length (If your sewing machine struggles with the bulk here, just fold one
    hem & seal the webbing end with Fray Stop or a zig-zag stitch)
    20) Position the unhemmed strap ends between the notches on the outer piece, edges aligned & clip
    like the photo.
    21) Baste each strap in place with a 5mm seam allowance

    Eleanor Harris (American, 1901-1942)

    Assemble the water bottle carrier

    22) Position the outer panel inside the lining panel, right sides together, seams
    aligned, straps sandwiched between the layers & clip around the top edge
    23) Starting at the centre back seam, sew all the way around the top
    24) Turn the bottle carrier out the right way & press. A Tailor’s Sleeve Roll is a handy
    tool here

    25) Machine sew the opening in the lining closed, or hand sew using a ladder stitch
    26) Topstitch around the top of the carrier

    Adding KAM snaps

    27) Add male KAM snaps at the marked positions on the carrier, with the smooth cap on the inside: 

    c) At the centre of the snap placement mark use an awl to make a hole through the carrier, ensuring the fabrics are smooth

    d) Thread the cap prong through the hole from the inside of the carrier

    e) Slip the male snap socket onto the cap prong on the outer of the carrier

    f) Sit the snap cap flush into the black dish of the plier base

    g)Position the pliers on a solid surface & press firmly (lean into the pliers for added force) until the snap is fixed in place

    28) Add the female KAM snaps to the strap ends – When positioning, ensure the snap cap is clear of the hemmed strap end or it may be too thick to attach properly

    a) Use the awl to make a hole 2cm from the end, central to the width of the strap

    b) Thread the cap prong through the hole from what will be the outside of the strap. Double check the female snap will fit the male part without your strap twisting before applying the snap

    c) Follow the steps as before, using female snap piece

    Watch our video tutorial on how to attach KAM Snaps here or check out our Beginner’s Guide to KAM Snaps post

    Make the adjustable multi-way strap

    29) Using the remaining webbing, thread 1 end through from the underside of the
    strap slider. Bring the end over the central bar then thread back through to the
    back
    30) Sew the end to secure – a zipper foot can make this easier

    31) Thread a swivel clip onto the strap, hook on the opposite side to sewn hem near the slider32) Checking the strap isn’t twisted, thread the unsewn end of the strap through the slider

    33) Thread the unsewn end through the remaining swivel clip

    34) Sew the strap end down to secure the hook around the final swivel clip

    35) To add the strap to the carrier, thread the D rings onto the grab handles then clip and go!

    And you’re finished, well done!

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    The Ultimate Guide To Hand and Machine Sewing Needles

    The Ultimate Guide To Hand and Machine Sewing Needles

    Tired of confusing needle types and struggling to understand needle size charts? Ringing a bell seam-star?

    Well, the good thing is you’re not the only one! It can be suuuper duper confusing, especially if you’ve recently started sewing.

    But every day is a school day, which is why we’ve put together a comprehensive guide to sewing needles to help you navigate the world of BOTH machine & hand sewing needles.

    Or if you’re a seasoned seam-star this is a great refresher to brush up on your knowledge.

    At Plush Addict we have an incredibly well stocked, extensive range in our online haberdashery and needles are no exception!

    We stock a variety of types, sizes and brands of hand sewing and machine sewing needles.

    We realise that all of this choice can be confusing to the uninitiated Seam-Star so we hope you find this Ultimate Guide To Needles valuable when making the right needle choice for your next sewing project.

    Choosing The Correct Sewing Machine Needle

    Sewing machine needle sizes – let’s demystify those numbers!

    Have you ever wondered why sewing machine needles have two numbers on either side of a slash?

    You might see something like 90/14 or 80/12 on a machine needle and wonder what those numbers mean….

    This part isn’t tricky – these numbers reference the European and American needle size systems. The higher number is European and the smaller number is American.

    Longarm needles tend to have 3 numbers, both European and American as well as the Longarm sizes.

    But what do sewing machine needle numbers mean you may ask?!

    When it comes to sewing machine needles, remember – the bigger the number the bigger the needle

    As a general rule of thumb

    The finer/ lighter your fabric, the lower the needle number you need & vice versa – the thicker & heavier your fabric the higher the number needle you need.

    Here are some example fabrics and the needle size you might consider. Fabric weights can vary extensively so the ideal needle size can vary between the same fabric type. If in doubt – sew a test on some off cuts of your fabric

    • Cotton Lawn – 70/10
    • Quilting cotton – 80/12
    • Denim – 90/12

    Remember the thread on a sewing machine must sit fully in the groove of the needle without any movement on either side. This ensures the thread doesn’t unravel or shred. However, the eye of the needle must be large enough for the thread to pass through with minimal friction. 

    We’ve made a sewing needle size chart below. So remember to come back to it if you ever need a hand choosing needles.

    Sewing Machine Needle Sizes

    European SizesAmerican Sizes
    608
    7010
    7511
    8012
    9014
    10016
    11018
    12020
    13022

    Top Trouble Shooting Tip: When your sewing machine drops or skips stitches, it’s often caused by a damaged needle, or occasionally a mismatch between the size of the thread and the needle. Try changing your needle, this often fixes the problem!

    Different Types Of Sewing Machine Needles

    Universal Needles:

    Universal needles aren’t as sharp as other regular needles. They are tapered allowing them to slide through the fabric without pulling threads on the weave.

    They’re usually suitable for most types of fabric and are a good all-rounder to have on hand in your sewing stash

    Ballpoint Needles:

    With a rounded tip, ballpoint needles are designed to be used on jersey & stretch fabrics. The slightly rounded point gives ballpoint needles their name, and means the needle finds its way between the fabric fibres and avoids leaving behind a hole!

    Embroidery Needles:

    Embroidery needles are special needles that have a big eye, are polished and are designed for rayon and polyester machine embroidery threads. Have you seen how fast an embroidery machine needle can move in full swing? You want to make sure you’re using the right needle for the right job here…

    Metallic Needles:

    Using metallic needles are the best choice when sewing metallic thread. Metallic needles have an enlarged, polished eye to prevent shredding and or splitting of this specialist thread.

    Quilting Needles:

    Quilting needles for….. quilting! Featuring a strong, tapered shaft these needles have the ability to sew through multiple layers without breaking.

    Ideal for those thick quilts and fluffy wadding!

    Topstitch Needles:

    Topstitch needles tend to have a very sharp point allowing for precise, neat stitches.

    They are ideal for woven fabric and they also have long eyes and grooves for thicker topstitch threads.

    Denim Needles:

    Denim Needles, also sold as Jeans Needles, are more heavy-duty than many other needles and are designed to be used with denim. These bad boys can cope with multiple layers of heavy denim fabric.

    These needles are also a good choice for other heavy weight fabrics, like canvas.

    Leather Needles:

    Leather needles are one of the sharpest cut point needles. These are designed to pierce authentic leather, artificial leather as well as other thick non-wovens.

    Hand Needle Types

    Sharps Needle:

    Sharps handheld needles are often short to medium length with sharp points. Sharps needles are a good all-rounder and are used for a wide range of hand-sewing tasks.

    Betweens Needles:

    Betweens needles are usually short, sharp needles used in hand quilting. As well as other sewing makes that require precise accuracy when sewing.

    Hand Embroidery Needles and Crewel Needles

    Hand embroidery have sharp points and eyes that are wider than the shaft of the needle and enable thicker threads to be used.

    Embroidery is the art of sewing intricate, decorative stitches made with floss or thread.

    Crewel refers to the same types of stitches, stitches but sewn with wool thread. The needle is the same in the embroidery & crewel techniques.

    Hand Applique Needles

    Hand applique needles are actually sharps needles and are ideally suited to applique and intricate hand-work.

    Although they are sharps, some brands name them applique needles, to assist sewists that are looking for the best needle for hand applique.

    Often short to medium length with sharp points.The needle eyes are often small and the needles come in several lengths & sizes. Clover needles really are the best quality and a dream to use.

    Chenille Needles:

    Another great embroidery needle is the Chenille needle, they are different to a regular embroidery needle.

    Chenille needles are often referred to as a combination between a tapestry needle and a crewel or embroidery needle. They are sized the same as tapestry needles.

    Usually starting at size 14 and all the way up to size 28 (which is the finest needle you can find).

    Straw/Milliners Needles:

    Straw or Milliners needles are looooong needles with round eyes, traditionally used for hat making. However, they can also be used for hand sewing.

    They are often the choice of preference for those who prefer longer needles.

    Tapestry Needles:

    Tapestry needles are often used in needlepoint, petit point, counted cross-stitch and plastic canvas work. They have a large eye with a blunt, round point.

    So that’s our ultimate guide to sewing needles! We hope you’ve brushed up on your knowledge and picked up on a few needle tips along the way.

    Did you find this sewing needle guide helpful?

    Please let us know in the comments below!