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Make an adjustable bag strap: Free sewing tutorial!

Make an adjustable bag strap: Free sewing tutorial!

I recently found this fab vintage bag in a charity shop but the strap was too short for my liking… I decided to replace the strap so I could wear it cross-body, whilst adding a pop of rainbow at the same time ✂️ So here’s a quick post on how to make an adjustable bag strap!

This is a really easy project – knock one up in less than 30 minutes ⏰

Make your own adjustable bag strap

Knowing how to make an adjustable bag strap is a really useful skill to have in your sewing techniques toolbox… I’ve replaced quite a few of the straps on my daughter’s bags as she’s grown… it’s also a great option if a current bag strap is uncomfortable, or just a bit tatty & worn out.

Replacing the strap can prolong the life of your fave bag, or just give it a new look! You only need a few supplies too!

Scroll down for a written tutorial or catch the vid below…

How to make an adjustable bag strap

A sewing project for: Beginner Friendly

Sewing Time: Under an hour

 

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

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Make an adjustable bag strap in less than 30 minutes

Need to know:

  • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 3mm unless otherwise stated.
  • Read through the instructions fully before starting

Disclaimer: Strangulation hazard: Children must be supervised at all times.

You will need:

Thank you for supporting our online shop with your sewing shopping… It means the world to us & enables us to keep putting out FREE content like this for you to make & create ❤️

We have an amazing selection of bag hardware and notions… check out our full range of bag-making supplies here

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

 

Bag Making Supplies

 

 

  • 2m of your chosen webbing of strapping
  • 2 x swivel clips (also know as dog hooks) that match the width of your webbing or strapping
  • 1 x slider that match the width of your webbing or strapping
  • 2 x D-Rings (optional – if you’re using an existing bag then you are likely already to have D rings already sewn in)

Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

Make a replacement cross-body bag strap

  1. Cut off the original strap

 

Make a replacement bag strap - Step 1 - Cut off the original strap
2. Thread 1 end of your webbing/ strapping through from the underside of the strap slider. Bring the end over the central bar then thread back through to the back

3. Sew the end to secure – a zipper foot can make this easier

4. Thread a swivel clip/ dog hook onto the strap. Hook on the opposite side to sewn hem near the slider

 

Step 4- Make a replacement bag strap - thread a swivel clip onto the strap.

Want to know your #5 from your #3 zip?  Check out our Zip Type Guide

5. Checking the strap isn’t twisted, thread the unsewn end of the strap through the slider

6. Thread the unsewn end through the remaining swivel clip

Make a replacement bag strap - Step 6 - Thread the unsewn end through the remaining swivel clip

7. Sew the strap end down to secure the hook around the final swivel clip

8. Clip and go!

 

 

And you’re finished, well done!

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New pattern alert! 🚨 Wanna make your own custom IKEA KALLAX storage boxes?

New pattern alert! 🚨 Wanna make your own custom IKEA KALLAX storage boxes?

Do you have cube storage units around your home? We absolutely love them here at The Studio, crammed full of haberdashery goodness!

Ikea Kallax Fabric Storage Box

Ready made storage boxes can be quite boring & might not match the decor in your home. We were super excited to team up with Makower to bring you the pattern for these beautiful boxes! 

Ikea Kallax Storage Boxes

 

Fabric Storage Boxes

It’s a completely free pattern available to download and is suitable for IKEA Kallax unit and lots of other cube furniture out there, measuring 12 ½” x 14 ½” x 12 ½”. 

 

PInterest Sew Your Own Fabric Storage Box

Even if you don’t have the cube storage units, they’re a great storage solution for any shelving for toys, magazines, anything you can think of!

 

The boxes are super sturdy as they have Buckram inside and even have a little PVC label pouch at the front so you can be super organised! If you’re worried about sewing a huge cube, don’t worry! It has a flip up base to make it easier to manage on your sewing machine.  

We have put together a kit with all of the bits and pieces you need to make the storage box or if you’d LOVE to use the fabrics we used, we have Henna available on the website too.

Loving the fabrics we used? Henna is a brand new Makower fabric collection featuring bold blooms and geometric prints. Designed by Beth Studley, these fabrics are inspired by Henna body art and feature mandalas, florals and chevrons. The bold colours are sure to make a statement on any project!

We can’t wait to see your storage boxes and what you make with Makower’s Henna collection!

Free Pattern For A Water Bottle Carrier

♻️ Hands up if you’re trying to reduce your plastic waste! Ditching plastic bottles of water in favour of a refillable water bottle is a no-brainer, right? Then you’ll need our free pattern for a water bottle carrier, for sure!

And our pattern is really cleverly crafted too!

We’ve designed this water bottle carrier with children in mind… so us grown-ups can feel less like a cart-horse & empower the youngsters to carry their own water 💦  

The clever thing about this pattern is the multi-way strap – kids can carry their water on their scooter, their book bag OR wear it cross-body

Watch the multi-way strap in action to see what we mean below

AND the wadding we’ve chosen is amazingly effective – we’ve used Insul-Bright – a  Thermal Insulated Wadding which will help to keep water bottles cooler for longer… 

And – let’s face it –  it’s not just for kids… Grown-ups would love one too!

You can feel proud of your sewing prowess, whilst helping the planet at the same time!

Free Pattern For A Water Bottle Carrier

Free Pattern For A Water Bottle Carrier

A sewing project for: A Confident Beginner

Finished Dimensions: 19cm x 9cm approx (excluding strap). This carrier is sized to fit a water bottle with a 23cm circumference and fits most water bottles we tried

Sewing Time: Sew in an afternoon

Need to know:

  • 1cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
  • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5mm unless otherwise stated.
  • When topstitching – use a 3-3.5mm length & stitch approx 3mm from the seam
  • Prepare your fabrics as per the manufacturer’s care advice
  • WST = Wrong Sides Together
  • RST = Right Sides Together
  • Read through the instructions fully before starting  

Disclaimer: Strangulation hazard: Children must be supervised at all times.

Request The Free Pattern For A Water Bottle Carrier here:

Item:Amount required:We used
Fabric A: Cotton fabric for Outer Top Contrast1 Fat QuarterFabrics from the Acorn Wood Collection
Fabric B: Cotton fabric for Outer Main1 Fat QuarterFabrics from the Acorn Wood Collection
Fabric C: Cotton fabric for Lining1 Fat QuarterFabrics from the Acorn Wood Collection
Fabric D: Insul-Bright 40cm x 50cmInsul-Bright 
25mm Webbing2m25mm Cotton Canvas webbing
25mm Slide buckle/ Glide buckle1Hemline Slide Buckle
25mm Dog hooks/ swivel clips (20mm will also be ok) We used2Metal Heart Shaped Swivel Clip
25mm D rings2Metal D-Rings
KAM snaps size 202 setsKAM snaps

Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

Make Life Easier With

Firstly, grab your Free Pattern For A Water Bottle Carrier here

1) Request , Print & Cut Out The Free Pattern For A Water Bottle Carrier

  1. Use the 1” test square to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check print settings. Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the “Fit to page” option.

Using the pattern pieces as templates pin & cut out the following from the fabrics *: 

From Fabric A: 

  • 1 x Outer Top Contrast*

From Fabric B: 

  • 1 x Outer Main*
  • 1 x Base Circle

From Fabric C: 

  • 1 x Lining Main*
  • 1 x Base Circle

From Fabric D ( Insul-Bright Insulated Wadding):

  • 1 x  Lining Main
  • 1 x Base Circle

* For directional fabrics the shorter edge on the pattern pieces runs top to bottom of the finished carrier

2) Transfer the pattern markings  

It’s time to sew!
1. Align the bottom edge of the outer top contrast piece with the top edge of the Outer Main piece right sides together & pin
2. Sew, then press the seam allowance open

3. Draw a line 1cm up from the bottom of the outer & lining pieces on the wrong side

Baste the Insul-Bright

  1. 4. Baste the Insul-Bright main panel to the wrong side of the sewn outer panel, aligning at the top edge. The Insul-Bright should be 1cm shorter than the outer panel 
  2. 5. Baste the Insul-Bright in place around the top and 2 sides, 5mm from the edge. Do not baste along the bottom edge.
  3. 6. Baste the Insul-bright base onto the lining fabric base. NB: basting the Insul-Bright base to the lining & side to the outer panel makes sewing a small circle easier

Assemble the side panels

  1. 7. Fold the lining panel in half bringing the short side edges RST & pin
  2. 8. Sew the side seam, leaving a 10cm opening for turning
  3. 9. Repeat steps 7 & 8 for the outer panel, but omit the turning gap

 10. Trim back the Insul-bright bulk. Press the seam allowances on the outer & lining panels open.

11) On both the lining & outer panels snip around the bottom edges; make cuts that stop 2mm from the 1cm marked line, approx 1cm apart

Add the base circles to the outer & lining side panels

12) On both outer & lining pieces, mark ¼ points on the base circles & bottom edges
of the side panels:
a) On the side panels, fold the fabric on the seam & smooth & fold it across;
the seam line is a one-quarter point & the fold crease is another. Bring
those points together & smooth the fabric out to the sides; mark where the
next 2 folds form.
b) For the base circle, fold it in half, make marks at each end of the fold line.
Fold it in half again and mark both layers of fabric where they fold.
13) One at a time, match up the quarter points on the side panels & base circles & pin
14) Pin the fabric between the ¼ points, using the snips to help ease the fabric
around the outer edge. Aligning the fabric edges & pinning where the seam line will be sewn will help accuracy.

15) Sew the base circles in place. Dropping your stitch length to 2mm will help you
sew the curve. Keep adjusting the fabric on your sewing machine to ensure you don’t
sew in any puckers.
16) Trim back any Insul-Bright in a seam to reduce bulk
17) Turn outer piece right side out

Add the straps to the water bottle carrier

18) Cut 2 x 32cm (12 ½ “) lengths
of webbing
19) At one end of each length,
Create a double fold – turn over 1cm, then another 1cm & sew to hem with a longer stitch length (If your sewing machine struggles with the bulk here, just fold one
hem & seal the webbing end with Fray Stop or a zig-zag stitch)
20) Position the unhemmed strap ends between the notches on the outer piece, edges aligned & clip
like the photo.
21) Baste each strap in place with a 5mm seam allowance

Eleanor Harris (American, 1901-1942)

Assemble the water bottle carrier

22) Position the outer panel inside the lining panel, right sides together, seams
aligned, straps sandwiched between the layers & clip around the top edge
23) Starting at the centre back seam, sew all the way around the top
24) Turn the bottle carrier out the right way & press. A Tailor’s Sleeve Roll is a handy
tool here

25) Machine sew the opening in the lining closed, or hand sew using a ladder stitch
26) Topstitch around the top of the carrier

Adding KAM snaps

27) Add male KAM snaps at the marked positions on the carrier, with the smooth cap on the inside: 

c) At the centre of the snap placement mark use an awl to make a hole through the carrier, ensuring the fabrics are smooth

d) Thread the cap prong through the hole from the inside of the carrier

e) Slip the male snap socket onto the cap prong on the outer of the carrier

f) Sit the snap cap flush into the black dish of the plier base

g)Position the pliers on a solid surface & press firmly (lean into the pliers for added force) until the snap is fixed in place

28) Add the female KAM snaps to the strap ends – When positioning, ensure the snap cap is clear of the hemmed strap end or it may be too thick to attach properly

a) Use the awl to make a hole 2cm from the end, central to the width of the strap

b) Thread the cap prong through the hole from what will be the outside of the strap. Double check the female snap will fit the male part without your strap twisting before applying the snap

c) Follow the steps as before, using female snap piece

Watch our video tutorial on how to attach KAM Snaps here or check out our Beginner’s Guide to KAM Snaps post

Make the adjustable multi-way strap

29) Using the remaining webbing, thread 1 end through from the underside of the
strap slider. Bring the end over the central bar then thread back through to the
back
30) Sew the end to secure – a zipper foot can make this easier

31) Thread a swivel clip onto the strap, hook on the opposite side to sewn hem near the slider32) Checking the strap isn’t twisted, thread the unsewn end of the strap through the slider

33) Thread the unsewn end through the remaining swivel clip

34) Sew the strap end down to secure the hook around the final swivel clip

35) To add the strap to the carrier, thread the D rings onto the grab handles then clip and go!

And you’re finished, well done!

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Sew Your Own: Half Circle Skirt

If you are venturing into the world of dressmaking and feel ready to challenge yourself a bit further, a half circle skirt is a great next step. There are super useful skills and techniques to be learnt here, and step by step you will find yourself with something new to wear.

If you want to grow your confidence a little more 1st, why not try our quick elasticated waistband skirt tutorial. Whichever option you choose, you will be making something to measure and gaining valuable experience (as well as a nice outfit!).

A sewing project for adventurous beginners

 

You will learn:

    • How to use pattern template card
    • How to draft a pattern
    • How to insert an invisible zip
    • How to use waist shaper interfacing

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What is pattern template card?

 

There are some patterns that once made, will be revisited time and time again. Especially a wardrobe staple; a made to measure half circle template has functionality beyond a standalone skirt, combined with a bodice pattern it will also work in various other projects.

Not forgetting utility sewing projects, for favourite tutorials, a pre-drafted template speeds up the process when making more. While pattern paper can suffice, it’s delicate nature does limit its life as a template.

Benefits of pattern template card

 

  • It makes durable sewing pattern pieces/ templates
  • Long lasting
  • Has a strong edge for cutting/ marking clean lines
  • Doesn’t lose shape
  • Thick enough to sit flat and hold it’s shape
  • Thin enough to cut, mark and fold or roll
  • Easy to draw on
  • Can be ironed at a low heat

Additional information:

·         Pattern card will have crease marks when stored folded. Ideally store flat/ hung: Use a clip coat hanger, pattern hook or make holes with a hole punch and thread cord through for hanging pieces together. For quick future reference add a pattern card to the pattern when storing with details of size, any potential adjustments/ additional items needed, examples of projects the pattern was used on etc

What is Waist Shaper?

 

Vlieseline / Vilene Waist Shaper is a durable easy to use product that can save lots of time. It is a fusible interfacing strip, with 3 lines of cut out markings that work as a guide for pressing. In terms of texture/ drape, it has the feel of light to medium weight interfacing.

Benefits of Waist shaper

 

  • Makes cutting a length of fabric quicker and more accurate
  • Speeds up pressing
  • Fusible
  • Reduces measuring/ marking time
  • Easy to use
  •  Adds structure
  • Gives a crisp edge
  • Machine washable up to 95 degrees
  • Can be dry cleaned
  • 2 colour options

Uses for Waist shaper

  • Waistbands
  • Bag straps
  • Wrist loops
  • Keyrings
  • Handles

Additional information

Best suited for medium to heavy fabrics

 

Important notes

1cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.

Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturers care advice.

 

1. Measure the following:

Waist

Required length

If measuring isn’t possible, online size guides for clothing retailers may provide the information required

 

How to calculate the measurements for a half circle skirt

 

2. Work out the maths! For the skirt the following needs to be calculated:

  •  Measure your waist size and then multiply by 2. This will give your waist circumference

For example: If your waist measure 71cm: 71cm x 2 = 142cm

  • Measure how long you wish your skirt to be (eg waist to your knee) Take your measurement and + 2cm

For example: I wish my skirt length to be 56cm

56cm + 2 = 58cm

3. Using your waist circumference measurement calculate the radius & note it down:

i) Waist circumference measurement / 3.141

For example:

142cm / 3.141 = 45.2cm (diameter)

ii) Then divide the answer by 2

For example 45.2 / 2 = 22.6 Inner Radius                                           

If the calculations are tricky, try this online calculator, enter the waist circumference calculated in step 3, check the units are cm, then make a note of the radius

 

4. Add the inner radius and total length:

For example:

22.6 + 58 = 80.6 Total radius

Calculate how much fabric is needed

 

5. With these figures, the fabric requirements can be calculated:

  • The total width of fabric needed is the total radius measurement.
  • The total length of fabric needed will be double the total radius measurement (for example, 80.6cm = 161.2cm).
  • Depending on the fabric width/ pattern the waistband piece will either fit beside the skirt or fabric will need adding on to the length.

Always allow slightly more, for shrinkage etc. and consider the pattern direction; the fabric in a half circle skirt pans around so directional prints aren’t always suitable, though with careful planning, can make a bold statement.

How to draft the pattern template

 

6. For the waistband mark a template that measures: your waist size + 2cm x 7cm

To make the piece more economical and easier to store, the length can be halved and the pattern piece labelled ‘cut on fold’ along one of the short edges.

 

7. Straighten up the short edge on the pattern template card, ensuring the corners are square

 

8. Position the end of a tape measure in one of the corners. From that point, measure up along one of the sides and make a mark at the inner radius measurement (for example, 22.6cm)

9. With the end of the tape always in the corner, pivot the other end of the tape 2cm away from the 1st mark and make another mark at the same measurement. Continue to make marks at 2cm intervals until the tape lies along the other folded edge, forming a ¼ circle

 

10. From the same corner, repeat steps 8. and 9. marking the total radius measurement (for example, 80.6)

 

11. Draw 2 lines joining each series of markings to form two ¼ circles, one small and one larger

12. Mark a ‘cut on fold’ label along one of the straight edges between the two ¼ circles

 

13. Label both templates half circle skirt, include the waist measurement and length (step 1) and cut it out

 

How to sew a half circle skirt

 

14. Starting with the skirt piece; Fold the fabric with an overlap long enough to accommodate the whole template.

The fold line will form the centre front of the skirt; consider the positioning, especially with directional prints

 

15. Position the template on the fabric with one straight edge along the fold. The other edge needs a minimum 1cm fabric overhang

 

16. Cut around the template, through both layers of fabric, adding an extra 1cm of fabric along the edge that isn’t folded for the seam allowance

How to apply the Vlieseline waist shaper

 

17. Using the waistband template, cut the waist shaper to length

 

18. Position the Waist shaper on the remaining fabric

Consider the position; the centre of the waistband’s length will end up as the top edge of the finished waistband. Fold the waist trainer in half lengthways, if needed, to help planning. The centre widthways will be the finished centre front of the skirt

 

19. Iron the waist shaper onto the fabric, using heat setting 2, no steam. Pressing each area for 8 seconds

 

20. Allow 30 minutes for the waist shaper to cool and the adhesive to cure

 

21. Cut out the waistband

22. Using the markings as a guide, fold the waistband in half lengthways and press

 

23. Fold in and press the 2 outer rows of markings, tucking in the raw edges

 

 

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How to attach the waistband

 

24. Find the quarter points around the top of the skirt and waistband and mark:

On the skirt, bring the 2 straight edges together and smooth the fabric out to the side, where the fabric folds along the smallest curved edge make a mark. Fold it in half again and mark where the 2 creases form

On the waistband, align the 2 short edges and fold the waistband in half, make a mark where it folds. Fold it in half again and mark where 2 the creases form

 

25. Sew a loose gather stitch around the top edge of the skirt 5mm from the edge. The purpose of this is to help with ease (fitting the skirt to the waistband), not to gather

 

26. Open out the waist band and line up the ¼ points with those on the skirt, right sides together, edges aligned and pin

 

27. Pin the fabric between the ¼ points

There often appears to be an excess of fabric here, distribute it evenly between the markings using the gather stitches to avoid puckers forming

 

28. Sew the waistband and skirt together easing the fabric as it runs through the machine to prevent puckering

 

29. Press the seam allowance toward the waistband

How to insert a concealed zip

 

30. Cut two 18cm lengths of seam tape

 

31. Apply the tape to the wrong side of the skirt just below the waistband following the 2 straight edges

 

 

32. Tidy the 2 straight edges of the skirt, using either zig zag stitch (length 2, width 3, tying the ends to secure) or an overlocker

 

 

33. Test the zip

 

34. With the zip open, carefully press the teeth over towards the opening, taking care not to melt the teeth

 

35. With the open zip right side down and skirt right side up. Line up the outer edge (no teeth) of the zipper tape along the straight edge of the skirt, the top zip stop butting up to the central fold in the waistband

 

36. Pin the zip tape to the skirt, ensuring the waistband seam allowance is upwards

 

37. Pull the zip slider upwards to check it doesn’t exceed the fold in the waistband when closed

 

38. Open the zip and sew in place using a concealed zipper foot. The zip teeth should tuck into the groove in the foot and the needle will sew tight to them (check manufacturers advice for the foot being used)

A concealed zipper foot lifts the teeth so the stitch line runs tight to them. Sew up to the zipper pull and back stitch. Unlike sewing a zip with a standard zipper foot, moving the pull to sew the end of the tape cannot be achieved with a concealed zipper foot so the end remains unsewn and unused in the finished opening

Once sewn the stitch line is invisible from the inside of the garment as it is tucked under the teeth. A normal zipper foot can be used with the needle set as far across as possible, though it is difficult to lift the teeth and sew the stitch line under them using this method. The finished result is less concealed zip

39. Bring the 2 sides of the skirt right sides together and fasten the zip

 

40.  Ensure the waistband of the skirt lines up on both sides of the zip and the tape isn’t twisted, and pin

41. Repeat step 38. for the pinned side of the zip

Sewing the centre back seam

 

42. Pin the 2 straight edges together and sew up to the zip stitch lines to form the centre back seam

Take care when sewing near the end of the zip. Tuck the zip end up to avoid catching it in the seam. Using a standard zipper foot makes it easier to sew alongside the end of the zip and meet the zip stitch lines

 

43. Press the seam allowances open

Finish sewing the waistband

 

44. Fold over and pin the waistband so the edge on the inside of the skirt slightly overhangs the edge on the outside

45. At each end of the waistband fold back the ends a little more than the front to prevent them obstructing the zip pull

46. From the right side of the waistband either top stitch 2mm from the bottom edge or stitch in a ditch. Both methods will secure the inside of the waistband

 

Sew a rolled hem

 

47. Starting next to the centre back seam, fold over approx. 2mm of the hem, fold it again to form a thin hemline and pin

 

48. Repeat step 47., at the seam ends, tucking the edges of the seam allowance into the folds

 

49. Starting at the centre back seam, position the hem under the presser foot right side down. Either use a rolled hem foot or form the rolled hem manually: sew close to the inner fold, folding and sewing around the bottom edge of the skirt until the start point is reached. Take care to not stretch the fabric as it approaches the needle

 

 

 

 

50. Turn the skirt out the right way and press

And you’re finished, well done!

Pin for later!

 

We hope you found this tutorial useful!

Let us know how you get along in the comments below!

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials. Please tag us @PlushAddict on your fave social media channel… we love to see your makes!

Learn All About Insul-Bright

Learn All About Insul-Bright

What is Insul-Bright?

Is your next project too hot to handle or too cold to hold? What you need is Insul-Bright! Learn all about Insul-Bright in this tutorial.

Insul-Bright is an insulated wadding that keeps hot things hot and cold things cold. It is made from metalised polyester film, with Polyester fibres needled through it. The polyester film reflects energy, hot or cold. The needled material is breathable and the fibres help resist conduction. You can use it for a variety of simple yet practical projects for the family and the home.

(more…)
Sewing supplies made from recycled & sustainable materials

Sewing supplies made from recycled & sustainable materials

There’s never been a more important time to reduce, recycle and reuse and using recycled products is a great way to support that ethos. In this guide, we are going to highlight some sewing supplies made from recycled & sustainable materials.

Did you know we sell threads, ribbons, interfacings & fabrics that are made from recycled bottles? Or bio-degradable wadding?! Did you know five plastic fizzy drink bottles can supply enough raw materials to make a new T-shirt? Read on for all the info on how you can up the eco-credentials of your stash and choose sewing supplies made from recycled & sustainable materials

Pin & read later:

Sewing supplies made from recycled & sustainable materials
Ribbons made from recycled materials

 

We are delighted to see that Berisfords are not only now making some of their most popular ranges from recycled plastic bottles, but also the ribbon reels too!

sustainable ribbons

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

The sustainable ribbon that doesn't cost the earth

Recycled polyester is just as good as virgin polyester but takes 59% less energy to make, plus it keeps plastic out of the oceans or landfill. Using recycled polyester also contributes to the reduction of crude oil and natural gas from the earth.

Berisford now manufacture their Grosgrain ribbon & double satin ribbon from recycled plastic bottles!


Sustainable & Recycled Interfacings & Interlinings

 

Do you use Vlieseline products? Then you’re already doing your bit for the planet! Did you know many Vlieseline interlinings are made from recycled plastic bottles?

recycled plastic bottles process

The bottles are checked with all caps, labels and rubber removed. Then the bottles are washed and crushed into granules before being melted and made into fibres, which is made into the polyester interlining and wadding we all love.

Interfacing and interlinings made from recycled plastic bottles

 

Vlieseline already offer products made of 100% recycled polyester and/or mixtures thereof. By using already existing materials Vlieseline are reducing the consumption of new raw materials – in particular those that come from non-renewable sources.

Products which are made with recycled plastic bottles are

 

100 % R-PES         F220 | H310 | R 80 | R 200
80% R-PES          P120 P140 | P250
65% R-PES         M12 | S13
55 % R-PES         249
35 % R-PES         G405 | L 11
15 % R-PES         H180

 


Biodegradable quilt wadding

The Vlieseline Eco-150 wadding is 100% biodegradable!

The ECO 150 wadding biodegrades when in the ground after 57 days. But there’s no need to panic! It doesn’t start to biodegrade unless it is in the ground as it’s the soil enzymes which trigger the degrading process.

Have a read of The Sewing Directory’s review of this wadding here. Fiona did actually bury it in the ground, and it really does return to the earth

Vlieseline Eco-150 wadding
Sewing Threads made from recycled plastic bottles
Gutermann Creativ Sewing Thread rPET

Gutermann Threads have a fantastic collection of polyester threads that are made from recycled plastic bottles and there are over 160 colours to choose from so you’re bound to find a colour perfectly suited to your project.

They are the same price as regular Sew All threads too – it’s a no-brainer easy switch 🙂

These threads are known as ‘sew-all threads’ and are great for both machine and hand sewing, closing and backstitch seams, fine ornamental stitches and decorative seams.

Gutermann creativ rPET - 100% recycled polyester value pack

The threads can be used for light and heavy to medium-weight fabrics and even clothing fabrics and knitwear. They are made in Germany with their Micro Core Technology, so the same premium quality you’d expect from Gutermann, but super eco-friendly! You can shop for these on our website.

Premium Haberdashery with Plastic Free Packaging

Looking for some premium quality haberdashery? Hemline have introduced a premium rangle of haberdashery called Hemline Gold perfect for any eco-consious Seam Star who doesn’t want to compromise on style! ♻️

Hemline are known for their sleek, modern tools, inspired by the rich heritage of the sewing industry. We are now stocking their Hemline Gold range, which has been manufactured eliminating waste plastic packaging!

You can take a closer look at the range in this video:

Hemline Gold collection

There’s also some gorgeous storage such as premium quality needles & safety pins in glass jars with beautiful brushed gold lids, which can be used for years to come and potentially become an heirloom in the family.

 

 

We hope you found this post useful. Feel free to ask us any questions and we’ll always try to help!

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