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What is Fusible Woven Interfacing and How To Use It

What is Fusible Woven Interfacing and How To Use It

by | Mar 19, 2021 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Interfacing and Interlining, Product Guides, Tutorials

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

You have probably noticed our slight obsession with fusible woven interfacing, we use it in lots of our tutorial projects. But it’s easy to see why: check out the ‘spring’ in the fabrics in the photo above – the fabric with interlining sits higher and rolls into a smoother curve.

In this guide, we’re going to talk you through the benefits of woven interfacing and why we love it SO much, give you some project inspiration and walk you through the correct way to apply woven interlining to your fabrics.

What is Fusible Woven Interfacing?

 

Fusible woven interfacing is actually a “normal” piece of fabric with warp & weft threads that are woven together in the traditional way. A layer of adhesive glue is applied to one side which will adhere to other fabric once an iron is applied.

Don’t know your warp from your weft? Check out our Beginner’s Guide to Fabric Basic Post

Woven interfacing (or interlining) is a great way to give your projects a little more structure, making fabrics easier to work with and it’s super simple to apply. Medium weights are great for quilting cottons in projects like cushions; they will sit better but still feel “squishably” soft and it can help non-padded little bags and pencil cases hold their shape.

Grab a cheeky 10% discount off your next Fusible Woven Interfacing purchase with WOVEN10 One time use per customer.

The benefits of using woven interfacing

 

  • Elevates quilt cotton weight fabric to a canvas weight fabric
  • Negates the need for a lining in some projects – saves you money & time!
  • The interlining fabric is made of natural cotton fibres rather than polyester (plastic) so it’s more eco-friendly
  • It’s breathable as it’s a natural fibre
  • It adds structure
  • It adds a luxury feel to your project
  • Machine washable up to 60 degrees
  • Helps reduce the need for ironing on some projects as it retains shape
  • Works with light to medium weight fabrics (the fabric must withstand being ironed at heat setting 3)
  • Gives fabrics a heavier feel
  • Reduces drape
  • Excellent for adding body to quilt cottons to be used in bag making or home dec projects

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In-house at Plush Addict we LOVE woven interfacing for bag making, zipper pouches & cushion covers. It gives a really professional finish to your projects.

Using this interfacing for cushion covers can negate the need for a lining so it saves fabric and makes it easier – especially if you are adding a zipper! It’s also great to use for external pockets – again no lining is required!

Check out this easy reading cushion tutorial to see what we mean

Project ideas for using Woven Interfacing

Projects we’ve used this amazing product in are:

15 Minute Upcycled Fabric Tray Tutorial

How to: Make An Easy Reading Cushion Tutorial

15 Minute Upcycled Fabric Sew A Make-Up Bag: Free Pattern and Tutorial

5 Minute Key Fob Tutorial

Toy Storage Basket and Play Mat Sewing Tutorial

Free DIY Toddler/Cot Bed Duvet Cover Tutorial

Christmas Bow Cushion Tutorial

A note on using woven interfacing in dressmaking projects

The general rule of thumb regarding using any kind of interfacing in dressmaking is that the interfacing should not be heavier than your fashion fabric. Woven interfacing is great when sewing coats, shirts etc, but it as it does reduce the drape of your fashion fabric it’s not best suited for times you wish your fabric to have a good drape.

How to apply fusible woven interfacing

You will need:

We used:

Important notes

  • Pre-wash your fabrics (not the interfacing)
  • Test interlining on a 2″ test square of the fabric to check suitability

Method

1. Cut your fabric: Fabrics can be cut to size/ shape before or after applying interfacing.

2. Smooth out the interlining adhesive side up (it feels slightly rough). Lay the fabric on top right side up with the grain lines aligned.

3. Cut the interfacing to the same size as the piece of fabric.

4. Place the fabric right side down on an ironing board.

5. Smooth the interfacing on top of the fabric, coated side down. Trim any interlining that exceeds the size of the fabric to prevent damage to the ironing surface, or lay on some scrap calico/ fabric

6. Cover with a smooth surfaced cloth; a tea towel or spare cotton are ideal.

7. Lightly dampen the cover using the iron’s spray setting.

8. Adjust the iron to heat setting 3 – cotton, no steam.

9. Starting at one corner work the iron across the cover to lightly adhere the materials together, smoothing out any lumps or ridges as the iron moves across.

10. Lift the cover and check for any bumps. The fabric and interfacing may need peeling apart a little. Recover and lightly press.

11. Once the interfacing is smooth, dampen the cover again.

12. Press, spending 12 seconds on each area to achieve good adhesion.

13. Place the coated fabric somewhere flat to cool fully and set the adhesive.

 

And you’re done!

(Grab a cheeky 10% discount off your next Fusible Woven Interfacing purchase with WOVEN10 One time use per customer.)

Want to try woven interning in the wild? Here are some interlining projects you could try:

We hope you found this tutorial useful!

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

Follow @PlushAddict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials!

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A Guide To Cotton Lawn Fabric

A Guide To Cotton Lawn Fabric

by | Mar 3, 2020 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Product Guides

I just love cotton lawn… Have you sewn with it? It’s divine!

I thought I’d pen some tips and facts about cotton lawn as we’ve had lots of new designs arrive and it’s the perfect fabric to start thinking about using as the warmer months approach…

 

What is cotton lawn?

 

So what exactly is cotton lawn, you may ask? Well, it’s a plain weave fabric that’s made from 100% cotton fibers. It’s similar to cotton voile, but it has a slightly crisper hand and a bit more body to it.

Think of it like the fancy cousin of regular cotton – it’s still casual and comfortable, but with a little extra oomph.

And as the name suggests, cotton lawn is made from 100% cotton!

It’s a very fine and lightweight fabric with a crisp finish. Cotton lawn has a lustrous sheen and a high thread count.

One of the best things about cotton lawn is how breathable it is. Because it’s so lightweight, air can easily flow through it, keeping you cool and comfortable even on the hottest days. Plus, it’s soft and smooth to the touch, so it feels great against your skin.

Cotton lawn originates from a place called Laon in France and has a smooth, polished feel.

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

What can I make with cotton lawn?

 

Cotton lawn, oh my! The possibilities are endless, my dear friend. Let’s dive into the world of cotton lawn and see what fun and playful creations we can whip up!

First up, we have the classic summer dress. Picture yourself twirling around in a flowy cotton lawn dress with the sun beaming down on you – perfection! You can choose a bold print or a soft pastel color to really make a statement.

But why stop at dresses? Cotton lawn is also perfect for a cute summer skirt. The lightweight fabric will keep you cool during those hot summer days, while still allowing you to look fabulous. Pair it with a tank top and sandals for an effortless and playful look.

Feeling crafty? Use cotton lawn to make a fun and colorful quilt. The soft and breathable fabric will make for a cozy blanket that you can snuggle up with on chilly nights. Plus, you can mix and match different prints and colors to create a truly unique masterpiece.

And let’s not forget about accessories! Cotton lawn is perfect for making playful hair accessories like scrunchies or headbands. Or, try your hand at making a cute tote bag to take to the beach or farmers market.

The possibilities truly are endless with cotton lawn. So go ahead, let your creativity run wild and have fun making something playful and unique!

Don’t forget that cotton lawn makes delicious children’s garments too!

And let’s not forget about facings – they are the perfect canvas for adding a pop of color and some extra pizzazz to your outfit.

Oh, and did I mention that Lawn makes for excellent handkerchiefs? Trust me, your nose will thank you.

Cotton lawn is the bomb for warm weather gear and linings because its fine threads create a subtle drape. Plus, it’s lightweight and breezy, perfect for staying cool.

Just be careful with lighter colors, they can be a bit see-through. And hey, if you’re new to sewing, cotton lawn is your homie. It won’t wrinkle too much and holds its shape like a boss!

Working With Cotton Lawn

 

Cotton lawn may sound like a fancy garden material, but it’s actually a lightweight and breathable fabric that’s perfect for warm weather. If you’re new to working with this material, fear not! I’m here to give you some playful tips on how to handle this fabric like a pro.

First things first, cotton lawn is known for being slightly sheer, so be mindful of your undergarments when wearing it. No one wants to accidentally show off their polka dot undies to the world, right?

When it comes to cutting your cotton lawn, a rotary cutter is your best friend. It’ll give you clean edges and prevent fraying, which is always a plus. Plus, it’s just so satisfying to slice through fabric like a ninja.

Now, let’s talk about sewing with cotton lawn. It can be a bit slippery, so make sure to use sharp needles and pins to keep everything in place. And don’t forget to adjust your tension settings on your machine – you want to avoid any puckering or pulling.

But the best part of working with cotton lawn? The endless possibilities for fun prints and patterns! From cute florals to quirky animals, there’s a cotton lawn print out there for everyone. So go ahead and let your playful side show through your fabric choices.

  • Cotton lawn is a stable fabric so is a good choice for beginners
  • Use a finer needle such as a 60/8  and consider using a Sharps or Microtex machine needle
  • Depending on how fine your lawn is you might also want to consider using finer pins such as these, which are dreamy to work with.
  • The best choice for a seam finish is a French Seam. You can use an overlocker but your seam could pucker. A rolled hem would also be a great construction choice with cotton lawn.
  • Watch your tension to avoid seam puckering
  • It’s a good idea to use a pressing cloth when ironing cotton lawn because it’s so fine.
  • If you need to interface your garment the best choice is to use a sheer one like Vilene H180   
  • When marking your fabrics it’s best to use a water soluble marker to ensure the marks can be easily removed.

Do you have any more tips for handling cotton lawn? Do let us know if you have any to share.

In conclusion, working with cotton lawn may sound a faff from that list, but it’s actually a breeze – promise! Just remember to be mindful of sheerness, use a rotary cutter, and adjust your tension settings. And most importantly, have fun with your fabric choices!

Happy sewing, friends.

Don’t forget to share your finished makes with us – tag us @PlushAddict as we LOVE seeing your projects!

 

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more helpful sewing stuff!

The Ultimate Vilene / Vlieseline At-A-Glance Guide

The Ultimate Vilene / Vlieseline At-A-Glance Guide

by | Apr 9, 2019 | Fabric, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Fabric Warehouse, Interfacing and Interlining, Product Guides

We have prepared this ultimate Vilene / Vlieseline Guide because interfacings and interlinings are some of the most useful products to have in your sewing room.

Vlieseline offer a vast range of products which can add shape and structure to your fabric but there are so many choose from so how do you know which you need for your project?

Who’s Vlieseline?

First off, let’s talk about Vlieseline.

If you’re based in Europe and have been sewing for a while you’ll probably be familiar with the brand Vilene.

Vilene became Vlieseline in the summer of 2016, different name, but the products are all the same and of exceptional quality.

For more than 60 years Vilene (now Vlieseline) has been the essential interlining for all kinds of applications.

Vlieseline products are the most famous and prestigious interlinings for those with a passion for sewing, for studios and for professional tailors/dressmakers!

 

Ultimate Vilene / Vlieseline Guide

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Did you know that Vlieseline do more than just interlinings?

Alongside the top quality fashion range which includes iron-on, sew-in and woven the range also includes a comprehensive range of tapes to take your dressmaking to the next level. 

The Creative Range  is the perfect range of stabilisers for all sorts of projects including patchwork, bags, home decoration, or accessories.

Did you know that Vlieseline also offer a great range of waddings/ battings? 

Suitable for projects that need a little volume of padding, there are also some flame retardant  choices, perfect to offer peace of mind for baby projects.

Vlieseline baby project

 

With the help of Vlieseline we’ve put together a handy at-a-glance guide which will easily help you select the right product for the right project.

As well as the basic weights we’ve included laundry instructions, fabric suitability and properties, a quick guide to how to apply the product.

Want the Ultimate Vilene/Vlieseline At-A-Glance Guide?

Click the button below to grab your copy!

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Vlieseline/ Vilene & Pellon Equivalent products

Isn’t it annoying when you find the perfect project online, only to discover you don’t recognise the suggested stability option?

If you’re based in the USA you’re probably familiar with Pellon, and here in Europe and Australia the most popular brand is Vlieseline.

We’ve provided Pellon suggestions for Vlieseline products where possible, although we always recommend testing an interlining on scrap fabric first to make sure you’re happy with the result.

Vlieseline have an extensive YouTube channel which you must check out. It has oodles of video how-to tutorials on how to get the best from the range.

Grab 10% off Woven Interfacing with WOVEN10

We hope you find this guide helpful! Drop us a message and let us know how you get along, we love to see all your amazing makes.

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more guides!

 

 Brassey Cl, Peterborough PE1 2AZ, UK
How to Measure and Cut Fabric Perfectly for Sewing

How to Measure and Cut Fabric Perfectly for Sewing

by | Feb 26, 2019 | Fabric, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Fabric Warehouse, Tutorials

Let’s face it, working with beautiful fabric is one of the best bits about sewing your own, isn’t it? I’m sure I’m not alone when I say I’ve made a few mistakes along the way and messed up a project because I’ve not given enough care or attention when prepping my fabric. Today I am delighted to welcome Annabelle from  Wunder Label who is sharing some invaluable tips about how to measure and cut your fabric perfectly to ensure you don’t end up getting yourself in to a pickle…. 

Even a seasoned seamstress will be faced with difficulty if they are working with fabric if they are using incorrectly measured or cut fabric. If you are struggling with your patterns and designs but are following the instructions step by step, the problem might be in your prep rather than your main body of work.

Don’t worry, though, because there are some tips that you can keep in mind to make sure you cut and measure your fabric perfectly.

Know What You Need

On the topic of measuring fabric, make sure you know your measurements before you begin to work with fabric. If you are working with a sewing pattern, this is usually pretty cut and dry. This is because most patterns detail how much fabric you’ll need.

For those who work to create garments, this can be a little more complicated, though. When you are taking measurements from who you are making the garment for, make sure to check those measurements multiple times.

If you are making a garment for yourself, getting measurements can be a little tricky. Your best bet is to ask a friend for help so the measurements are right. Taking these few extra moments will be worth it when your garment is the perfect fit.

Take a Second and Measure Again

All of us make mistakes while we’re sewing. Sometimes we even make mistakes before we start sewing.

Because of this, make sure to do all of your prep work twice. Check the measurements you need twice and make sure you know what they are. Even further, measure your fabric twice before you even think about cutting!

Don’t Be Afraid to Leave a Bit Extra

While you’re measuring and cutting your fabric, don’t feel compelled to cut your measurements exactly. To expand on that, don’t cut your fabric short but don’t be afraid to leave a little extra on your measurements.

Look at it this way: you can take away from your fabric but you can’t really seamlessly replace fabric you’ve already cut off. So, your better bet is to leave an inch or so more than you need on your fabric. Once you’re finished with your project, you can clean it up by trimming the excess at the end of your project.

Mark Your Fabric

If you want to cut a straight line, you need a straight line to cut. To ensure that you have this, don’t be afraid to mark your fabric. Tailor’s chalk is a popular choice for a non-permanent solution.

Find a Straight Edge

When you measure and cut, it’s absolutely crucial that you are working with a straight edge. To make sure they have a straight edge, many choose to use a long straight edge such as a yardstick when they are measuring their fabric.

It’s also important to make sure the pattern of the fabric matches up with your straight edge. For this, start by locating the selvage – the pre-finished edge of the fabric. Then, make sure to run your straight edge parallel to this line.

On the topic of selvage, sometimes you’ll run into a fabric whose pattern doesn’t perfectly line up with the selvage. This is usually caused by distortion created when the fabric during rolling, handling, and transportation. In other words, mismatched patterns and selvage can appear off grain but they actually aren’t.

To solve this problem, stretch the fabric on the bias in each direction. This helps to reset the weave and solve the mismatched appearance without any fuss!

Make Sure to Wash and Iron

When you are measuring your fabric, you might not always remember to leave allowances for fabrics that shrink. Without doing this, your finished product might not live up to your expectations after its first wash. To avoid this, take the time to wash, dry, and iron your fabric before measuring and cutting.

Only Work on Flat Surfaces

Have you ever tried to cut wrapping paper on a bed? If you have, you probably know its infuriating to try and get a straight cut.

This same principle stands when working with fabric. When trying to get a straight cut and proper measurements, take the time to spread your work out on a desk or table. Even a hardwood floor is better than trying to work on top of a carpeted one.

Make Sure It’s Sharp

Another wise idea is to make sure the cutting utensils you use are sharp. With a dull cutting instrument, you’ll find that the usual snap of your scissors quickly becomes a struggle of trying to chop through your fabric. Of course, this sawing or chopping motion can throw off your straight line.

Thanks Annabelle! Do be sure to check out more of Annabelle’s top tips over on her blog and why not check out her online shop where she sells the most amazing custom labels, ribbons and more which will give your sewing projects an oh-so professional look and feel.

A Fabric Guide: Felt Fabric

A Fabric Guide: Felt Fabric

by | Oct 26, 2018 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Fabric Warehouse, Felt, Product Guides

Why in the world would you need a guide on felt fabric? Well, chances are, you’ve had your hands on felt before—remember the magic of Fuzzy Felt? Those were the days, right? Creating scenes with Fuzzy Felt was practically a childhood rite of passage.

Felt isn’t just any fabric; it’s the cool kid on the block, coming in a mishmash of shapes, sizes, and qualities. So, let’s break it down: how to pick the right felt for your project and dish out 11 game-changing sewing tips for felt fabrics.

Felt is that laid-back friend who doesn’t need to be woven or knitted to hang together. It’s made from fibers chilling out together, getting tangled when needled, or just lounging in some heat.

True felt is like a cosmopolitan at a party, made from anything—wool, fur, mohair, cotton, rayon/viscose, or other synthetic fibers. Making felt is like crafting a fine cocktail: pound those fibers, compress them, shrink them, then add a splash of moisture, a dash of temperature change, pressure, and finally, rough them up a bit. Talk about a process!

Felt Fabric Guide Sample Project: What’s Felt Good For?

Depending on the felt, it can either be your go-to for crafty shenanigans or the MVP for sturdier projects.

Retail stores usually flaunt two types: acrylic (the life of the party for crafts, Christmas ornaments, appliqués) and wool felt (the durable one, perfect for soft toys that’ll see a lot of action, not to mention chic bags, hats, and sneaky garment details).

Fun Felt Facts (That Are Actually Fun)
  1. Felt is the Houdini of fabrics—it doesn’t unravel.
  2. Sewing with felt is as stable as your bestie.
  3. Don’t you dare dry clean felt; it’s more sensitive than your ex.
  4. Felt can get a bit clingy, bobbling and pilling with too much attention.
  5. Stretched felt is like a bad haircut; there’s no coming back.
  6. Steam? Felt can’t even.

Top Tips for Sewing with Felt (Because We’re All About That Life)

  1. Let felt do its thing in the sewing machine and feed naturally through; don’t be pushy.
  2. Dry cleaning felt is a no-go zone.
  3. Be cool when pressing & use little or no moisture when pressing. If you must, use a pressing cloth.
  4. Hand wash felt like it’s a delicate treasure in cold water & a mild soap, then let it air dry.
  5. DO NOT  wring or twist felt as it will misshapen.
  6. Cut with precision—rotary cutters for the win, and keep your fabric scissors safe.
  7. Thread choice? Polyester or cotton will have your back.
  8. Needle and stitch length? Start with an 80/12 and aim for 2.5mm – 3.0mm.
  9. Presser foot: Use a standard presser foot
  10. Press those seams open, no need to finish—felt doesn’t play by those rules.
  11. Always sew a test seam.

Real Talk on Felted Fabrics

Felted fabrics like boiled wool and melton? They’re the posers of the felt world. True felt is all about those raw fibers, while felted fabrics are just playing dress-up after a shrink and full session.

DIY: Be the Maker of Your Own Wool Felt Destiny

Can’t find 100% wool felt? Make your own. Raid your closet for old wool blankets or jumpers, then give them a spa day in hot water and a tumble dryer. Check out this tutorial for the nitty-gritty and then brag about it on social media.

Did this guide help you? If it did I’d appreciate it if you’d leave a comment or a ❤️ on this post to help other people find my work! And if you’d like to hear more from me I’d love it if you would subscribe below… thanks so much!

What the Tulle? A guide to Tulle And Net fabric

What the Tulle? A guide to Tulle And Net fabric

by | Oct 2, 2018 | Dress Net & Tulle Fabric, Fabric, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide

You will need this guide to tulle and net fabric because Halloween is just around the corner and what better fabric to create a statement with your costumes this year than dress net?  We get asked a lot about both tulle and dress net and there seems to be some confusion about this family of fabrics and whether tulle and dress net are actually the same thing (they’re similar, but not the same).  We thought we’d put together a fabric guide to help you decide which type of net is best for your project, along with some tips on how to handle this fun and holey cloth!

Option for finishing dress net raw edges

What’s the difference between Tulle and Dress Net?

It’s all in the drape, softness and size of the holes! Tulle is much softer to the touch than net and has smaller holes and it generally isn’t as stiff as regular dress net. Tulle is used for soft support, net is used for a stiffer look.

Tulle Fabric: Tulle is much softer and has smaller holes than dress net, it has a much better drape than traditional dress net and is often used for bridal veils, petticoats and can also be used as an interfacing. Tulle can also used for ballet tutus but will be starched. High quality Tulle can be made from nylon or silk, and nylon tulle is much crisper than silk.

Dress Net Fabric: Net, or dress net is an open-mesh fabric with larger holes than tulle and it can be made from rayon, silk, nylon or cotton but commercially it’s usually found in nylon, unless you’re shopping for bridal fabric. Dress net can range from very sheer to very heavy and most of the dress net fabric available commercially is made from nylon and is quite stiff and is perfect for costume making where structure is required. It can also used in evening gowns, petticoats, millinery and for underlinings and net makes great ruffles which add volume to a garment.

Dress net makes fun costumes

Sewing with Dress Net & Tulle

Layout & Cutting

High quality Net & tulle do not have a true grain, but there is more stretch in the width than the length. Despite not having a true grain it is advisable to cut conventionally with the lengthwise grain arrows parallel to the lengthwise grain of the fabric. Using a rotary cutter with net will give you the most accurate results. Follow the “Without Nap” cutting layout.

Machine needles

To make the most out of this guide to tulle and net fabric, use universal or sharps needles in sizes 60/8 – 80/12, depending on the weight of your net.

Stitch length

Use stitch length 1.5-2.5mm. You may need to lower the tension on your machine, always test on a scrap first.

Thread

Use a good quality polyester or cotton thread

Machine feet

Use a wide straight stitch or roller foot. You may also benefit from using a small hole needle plate if you have one.

Markings

Safety pins or tailors tacks are a good choice for marking on net. Remember to use a contrasting thread for tailors tacks for ease of visibility!

Seam Finish

Net and tulle do not unravel so seam finishing is not functionally required, however for aesthetic reasons you can choose plain seams, french, bound (with chiffon or tricot), rolled hem, you can even use a narrow satin stitch. Seams should be as narrow as practically possible. You can also overlock net fabrics; reinforcing with seam tape when overlocking  would be a good idea just in case the net rips. Use a bound seam at the hem to prevent dress net from itching or scratching the skin.

Closures

Don’t use button holes as they will pull out of the fabric. You can use instead button loops or small, reinforced snaps.

Other Top Tips for Sewing With Net Fabric

  • Place a small square of water soluble stabiliser between your machine foot and the fabric at the beginning of seams, and at the beginning and end of darts to stop your machine chewing your net.
  • Hold on to the top and bottom threads at the beginning of your seam to avoid the fabric being pulled down in to the needle plate.
  • Careful with the iron! Most commercial net fabric is made from nylon and will melt under high heat so ensure your iron isn’t too hot and that you use a pressing cloth.
  • Make a test seam to determine your stitch length and use tissue paper if your feed dogs are tearing the fabric
  • Stitch slowly! This will help to prevent unwanted puckers or gathers.

Have you ever sewn with high quality net or tulle? Have anything to add? Do share your tips with us , we love to hear from you!

Dress net adds volume to a hem