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Make an adjustable bag strap: Free sewing tutorial!

Make an adjustable bag strap: Free sewing tutorial!

I recently found this fab vintage bag in a charity shop but the strap was too short for my liking… I decided to replace the strap so I could wear it cross-body, whilst adding a pop of rainbow at the same time ✂️ So here’s a quick post on how to make an adjustable bag strap!

This is a really easy project – knock one up in less than 30 minutes ⏰

Knowing how to make an adjustable bag strap is a really useful skill to have in your sewing techniques toolbox… I’ve replaced quite a few of the straps on my daughter’s bags as she’s grown… it’s also a great option if a current bag strap is uncomfortable, or just a bit tatty & worn out.

Replacing the strap can prolong the life of your fave bag, or just give it a new look! You only need a few supplies too!

Scroll down for a written tutorial or catch the vid below…

How to make an adjustable bag strap

A sewing project for: Beginner Friendly

Sewing Time: Under an hour

 

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

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Need to know:

  • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 3mm unless otherwise stated.
  • Read through the instructions fully before starting

Disclaimer: Strangulation hazard: Children must be supervised at all times.

You will need:

Thank you for supporting our online shop with your sewing shopping… It means the world to us & enables us to keep putting out FREE content like this for you to make & create ❤️

We have an amazing selection of bag hardware and notions… check out our full range of bag-making supplies here

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

 

  • 2m of your chosen webbing of strapping
  • 2 x swivel clips (also know as dog hooks) that match the width of your webbing or strapping
  • 1 x slider that match the width of your webbing or strapping
  • 2 x D-Rings (optional – if you’re using an existing bag then you are likely already to have D rings already sewn in)

Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

Make a replacement cross-body bag strap

  1. Cut off the original strap
2. Thread 1 end of your webbing/ strapping through from the underside of the strap slider. Bring the end over the central bar then thread back through to the back

3. Sew the end to secure – a zipper foot can make this easier

4. Thread a swivel clip/ dog hook onto the strap. Hook on the opposite side to sewn hem near the slider

Want to know your #5 from your #3 zip?  Check out our Zip Type Guide

5. Checking the strap isn’t twisted, thread the unsewn end of the strap through the slider

6. Thread the unsewn end through the remaining swivel clip

7. Sew the strap end down to secure the hook around the final swivel clip

8. Clip and go!

And you’re finished, well done!

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How to repair a trouser pocket: Care & Repair Series #3

How to repair a trouser pocket: Care & Repair Series #3

Welcome to post number 3 in our Care & Repair Series! Hand up if you love a pocket?! 🙋‍♀️ Pockets are a complete joy to dressmakers everywhere… but what if your pocket wears out? In this post we’re going to walk you through how to repair a pocket. This method can be used for trousers or skirts.

You can also use this method to repair a pocket in a shop bought garment if the pockets are too small for your needs. The joys of sewing, eh?!

Read on to learn how to repair a pocket… it’s easier than you think. We’ve even got a no sew option for you…

Pockets are great for keeping all kinds of useful stuff…  from your phone, to loose change, even the occasional biscuit! Because pockets are so well used, they come under huge amounts of wear & tear.

Pocket bags are usually made from a thinner fabric than the outer trousers or skirt and so holes can be commonplace. And instead of outing a garment and sending it to landfill just because your keys are falling through a pocket hole you can learn to replace the pockets instead. It’s a win for the planet!

Soap box alert! When it comes to pockets in girls’ and women’s clothing. As a general rule of thumb, female fashions have sported pockets that are for purely fashion reasons rather than practical ones.

This certainly annoys my daughter who feels the need to fill her pockets with stones and twigs at every given opportunity. So here I am repairing a hole in her jeans pocket but also extending the pocket bags for her.

In this post we’re going to walk you though

  • How to replace a pocket bag using sewing
  • How to replace a pocket without sewing
  • Create larger pocket bags for your garments

Tutorial: How To Replace A Trouser Pocket

Skill level required: Beginner Friendly

Some important notes about replacement pocket products

  • Replacement pockets come as whole pockets. You can cut them down to the size you require or use them to replace the whole pocket if needed.
  • We are concentrating on trouser pockets here but the same method, and replacement pockets, can be used to repair pockets in trousers, skirts, jeans, dresses, jackets and more. Just check the pocket sizes against your garment as each one differs.
  • In this post we are using two different products, a sew-in version and an iron-on version. It is up to you to choose which is the most suitable for your needs.
  • The sew in pockets are trickier to use and require some sewing knowledge but they will last a very long time.
  • The iron on pockets are far simpler to use and don’t require any sewing at all but the repair may not last as long as sewn in pockets.
  • These pockets are are suitable to replace cotton, nylon, or polyester pockets.

    How to replace a pocket : The Sew In Method

     

     

    • Identify where the hole is in your pocket.
      • Draw a line in a washable fabric pen just above the damage.
      • If the pocket flap is stitched into the side seam, cut along this edge 1cm.
    •  Trim the damaged part of the pocket away along the line you have drawn.

    Trim the damaged part of the pocket away along the line you have drawn.

    • To mark the new pocket:
      • Lay the replacement pocket underneath the original pocket, lining up the edges. 
      • Make sure the folded edge is lined up with the folded edge of the original pocket and the seamed edge with the side seam. 
      • Allow for as much additional pocket bag as you wish to add.
      • Pin the two pockets together
      • Using the fabric marker, trace the edge of the original pocket onto the replacement pocket. 
    • Turn the raw edges outwards and line them up so that the new pocket and original line up. 
    • Stitch along the circumference to join the two pockets together using a 1cm seam allowance. 
    • Finish the raw edges in your preferred way, either pinking, zigzag stitch, overcasting stitch, or overlocker, to prevent fraying. 
    • Press the seam
    • Top stitch the side edge back to the side seam of the trousers to finish your mending project.

    If you would like to repair your pocket by hand sewing then check out Hemline’s video here

    How to replace a pocket : The Iron On  Method

    1. Start in the same way as you did with the sew in pocket.
    • Mark a line above where the damage is and cut along this line.
    • If your pocket is sewn into the side seam, cut along this edge approx. 1.5cm.
    1. Insert the bottom edge of the pocket into the replacement pocket, making sure the adhesive tape covers the pocket fabric.
    • Pin it in place.
    • Using a hot iron and a damp cloth press the adhesive tape pressing firmly
    1. Repeat the pressing on both sides of the pocket making sure to heat all of the tape.
    • Leave the pocket to cool for 10-20 minutes before moving it, allowing the adhesive to bond properly.

    Your pocket repair is complete!

     

    You can also check out Hemline’s video on how to use this product here

    We hope you found that helpful! Do let us know how you get on if you repair a pocket

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    Washable & Reusable Bin Liner Sewing Tutorial

    Washable & Reusable Bin Liner Sewing Tutorial

    We’re always looking for new ways to go zero waste here at Plush Towers & one item we have been keen to ditch is the plastic waste-bin liner and we have been looking for a reusable alternative…

    As the world, quite rightly, moves away from single use plastic bags that at one time many of us used to line small waste bins we have been pondering what a zero-waste replacement could be. We thought it was time to unleash into the world a tutorial for a reusable & washable waste bin liner!

    This washable bin liner is the perfect zero-waste solution for all those light use bins in the bedroom, office or bathroom…

    Reusable Bin Liner Sewing Tutorial

     

    Anatomy of the washable bin liner

    Outer Fabric: We’ve used waterproof PUL as the lining fabric in this project.

    Why this fabric you might ask?! We figured it was the perfect fabric choice for handling lightly soiled bathroom items such as cotton pads or ears buds. Choosing waterproof PUL means there there won’t be any unwanted leaks through to the exterior of the bin liner…

    It also means if you live with people that insist on chucking away their banana skins in their bedrooms that get buried & forgotten about you won’t get any leaky food waste either, ha!

    Lining Fabric: For the liner outer we’ve used calico as it’s economical , but you can use any cotton. This part of the liner generally won’t be seen (unless your bin has lots of hole in it) so this is a great opportunity to use up your stash, or this as a great chance re-purpose or upcycle some other fabric.

    Contrast Fabric: We wanted to give you the option to make it pretty so we’ve used a small amount of quilting fabric as an accent to give you the chance to match to your decor, or add a touch of personality to your bin. This fabric is actually part of the lining but appears on the exterior of the bin once folded over.

    The whole liner is held securely in place by fold over elastic at the liner’s opening edge.

    The method we’ve described in this tutorial would also work perfectly for washing baskets, laundry baskets, nappy bins, kitchen bins… You can use the same method for storage baskets (any size) to prevent leaking, damage, snags & scrapes!

    We’re going to show you how to draft a pattern for a circular 3D vessel – in this case your waste bin – which you can apply to a variety of other storage projects! Follow along and you can draft your own pattern to fit any size circular bin or basket.

    By using a liner you will be reducing your plastic use and waste, and become more conscious as to what waste you are producing, sewing a sustainable and useful project! 

    How to launder your reusable bin liner

    • We recommend that your fabrics are pre-washed before you start this project.
    • This liner is designed for light use waste bins so it can usually be laundered at 30 degrees.
    • If you decide to use it for “messier” bins that might harbour higher bacterial growth, you can launder these fabrics at 60 degrees but it’s imperative you pre-wash everything at that temperature first. Washing consistently at 60 degrees may reduce the life of the cotton fabrics.
    • We recommend air drying this project after laundering. We do not recommend tumble drying PUL as regular tumble drying can delaminate PUL fabric over time.

    A sewing project for Adventurous Beginners

    Finished Dimensions: Depends on the size of your bin – we used this bin [affiliate link]

    With the following dimensions: Dia 25.5cm x H 31cm / Dia 10” x H 12”

    Approximate sewing time: An afternoon

    Important Notes:

    • Pre-wash your fabrics
    • 1cm ⅜” seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
    • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
    • We have overlocked our seams but if you don’t have an overlocker you can check out this post for other seam finishing ideas
    • When top stitching – use a 3-3.5mm length & stitch approx 3mm from the seam
    • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice
    • RST = Right Sides Together
    • WST = Wrong Sides Together
    • Read through the instructions fully before starting
    • Please note that pins can create permanent holes in PUL. we recommend using clips

    You Will Need:

    The requirements given below are enough for a similarly sized bin to this bin which measures Diameter 25.5cm x Height 31cm / Diameter 10” x Height 12”

    If your bin is a different size draw the pattern out and then calculate what you need from the pattern.

    Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

    Draw Your Reusable Bin Liner Pattern

    1. Measure & draft the pattern pieces for your bin:

    You need to take a few measurements to work out how to draw your pattern pieces. We realised this can seem daunting for some people so we’ve worked hard to make it as accessible and easy to follow as we can.

    We’ve put together:

    • A video (below) for those that prefer visual instruction
    • Detailed written instructions & a handy printable which has a calculations table for you to complete with your own bin measurements. Use this for fool proof pattern drafting!
    • A worked example

    The video & printable are designed to work together and compliment each other.

    Measure your bin

    Cutting Out The Fabrics

    Cut the following :

    • From Fabric A (Contrast Top): 4 x Contrast Top rectangles
    • From Fabric B (Calico Cotton) : 2 x side panels & 1 x base circle
    • From Fabric C (PUL lining): 2 x sides and 1 x base circle

    3. Constructing the reusable bin liner

    • With RST, sew the side seams of the 2 x calico side panels  together, using a 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance
    • Repeat for the PUL side panels
    • Mark the quarter points: On both outer & lining sewn side panels & the base circles, mark ¼ points :
      • On the side panels, fold the fabric on the seam & smooth & fold it across; the seam line is a one-quarter point & the fold crease is another. Bring those points together & smooth the fabric out to the sides; mark where the next 2 folds form.
      • For the base circle, fold it in half, make marks at each end of the fold line. Fold it in half again and mark both layers of fabric where they fold.
    • Take the PUL side panel & base & match up the marked 1/4 points & pin
    • Now pin the fabric between the ¼ points, using the snips to help ease the fabric around the outer edge if you need to. Align the fabric edges & pinning where the seam line will be sewn will help accuracy.
    • Sew in place using a 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance. If you have a walking foot use this as it will help if the fabric is slippery. You could also use your overlocker if you have one.
    • Repeat the same steps on the Calico side panels & base circle
    • Add the contrast panel: Take 2 of the top contrast panels & place RST. At the shorts ends sew in place using a 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance. This will create two fabric “loops”.
    • Repeat for the other 2 top contrast panels. You should now have 2 “loops” in the contrast fabric
    • With RST, pin one top contrast loop to the Calico part of the liner along the top of the exterior bin liner, matching at the seams. Sew in place around the loop.
    • Repeat, sewing the remaining top contrast loop to the the PUL part of the liner.
    • Put the PUL lining of the bin liner, wrong sides together with the Calico exterior. Line up the 2 x top contrast panels, match at the seams & pin. Baste the outer and lining together at the top
    • Attach the fold over elastic: Take your bin and pull the elastic firmly around the part of the bin where the top contrast fold over will sit. Measure where it fits comfortably and then take a few cm off this length so that when in place, the bin liner will fit snugly to the bin & keep the liner in place.

    Measure Fold Over Elastic

    • Apply the fold over elastic using your preferred method: Please refer to our post here for detailed instructions on the different methods you can use to apply fold over elastic.

     

    DIY Reusable & Washable Bin Liner

     

    And you’re finished, well done!

    Feeling proud? Show us your makes! Tag us @PlushAddict on your favourite social media channel!

    How to Repair Bra Hooks: Care & Repair Series #1:

    How to Repair Bra Hooks: Care & Repair Series #1:

    Have you ever wondered if you can repair bra hooks when they get mangled in the wash? Or how you can save a bra that’s perfectly fine, but needs its bra clasp replacing? Keep reading and we’ll give you instructions on how you can quickly & easily complete a bra hook repair.

    In this post you’ll find a full colour tutorial on how you can replace a bra back – it’s really not that tricky either. Yay!

    This is the first post in our new Care & Repair Series…. we hope you find the series useful

    There’s never been a more important time to look after our belongings and Make Do And Mend

    Being able to repair our clothes rather than just replace them is one of the biggest things we can do to contribute to saving our planet right now, and we know so many of our readers are eco-conscience Seam-Stars 💚

    We’ll be publishing a series of helpful Care & Repair tutorials this year which will not only benefit your pocket, but also the planet.

    We’ll be covering topics such as replacing pockets, mending and patching, replacing zips and more!

    But if you’re already a mending whizz and you have some clothes to repair you can check out our really comprehensive care and repair range of products over on the website

    Back to the bras!

    Bras are a garment that every woman owns & wears almost all the time. This means your bras can suffer a great deal of wear and tear. One of the most common things to break over time on a bra are the fastening hooks.

    By repairing your bra hooks on the bras that you already own you can save money AND help reduce waste sent to landfill!

    Read on for info on how to replace your damaged bra hooks rather than have to fork out for another expensive bra!

    Check our full range of Care & Repair products here

    How To Repair Bra Hooks: A Sewing Tutorial
    • Skill level: Beginner
    • Approximate sewing time: It’s a super quick fix!
    Tips To Consider When Replacing Your Bra Clasp
    • Make sure to match your replacement hooks with the original hooks in number and size as best you can
    • Even if only one side of your bra fastening is damaged, make sure you replace both so that the hooks and eyes match up.
    •  The Bra Back replacements come in various different options, 19mm (1 hook), 28mm (2 hooks), 38mm (2 hooks), and 50mm (3 hooks) widths in black, white, and nude. Check out the full range here and select one that matches the bra to be repaired
    • To select the correct size for your bra, measure the width of the current hook and eye parts of your bra and select the width closest to it.
    • It is always best to go a little wider than too narrow, unless it means you will be sewing through a hook or eye.
    • Colour wise, select the colour that best fits the bra. If your bra is a different colour than what is on offer, I suggest selecting the colour which is closest to patterns in the bra, or if it is plain then opt for black if it is a dark colour and white if a pale one

    You Will Need:

    1 Hemline Replacement Bra Back. We used Hemline Bra Back Replacement: 50mm: Nude

    Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

    How to repair bra hooks

    1. 1. Remove the original hooks and eyes on both sides of the bra back.

    1.2. Take the hook portion of the kit and position it on the right side of the bra back (as you look at it).

    • – Fold it around the raw end so that the hooks are on the inside of the back and are laying along the edge.
    • – Pin in place through all layers. If your replacement hook tape is slightly wider than the back of the bra you may wish to hem the edges and turn it through to create a pocket for the bra back instead.
    • – Here, the hooks are slightly narrower than the bra back. I will show you how to rectify this in a moment.
    1. 3. Change the presser foot on your machine to a zipper foot as this will enable you to stitch without the hooks getting in the way of the foot.
      1. – Stitch a line of straight stitch through all layers to hold them in place.
      2. Increase your stitch length to 3-3.5 – don’t worry if the stitches are a little messy.
      3. – You may need to use the point of your embroidery scissors or a Curved Tailors Awl to help feed the fabric through your machine as the bra is so small it may not catch on all of the feed dogs. The fabric seams can also be quite bulky.
      4. – Be careful not to keep your scissors away from the needle!

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    1. 4. Now the hook part is secure, remove the pin.
    1. 5. Keeping the zipper foot on your machine, select a narrow zig zag stitch. Here, I have changed the stitch width to 2.5mm and stitch length to 0.5mm.
      • – Run a line of zigzag stitching along the line of straight stitch and the edge of the hook tape.
      • – The satin stitch will cover up the straight stitch

    1.6. If the back of your bra is slightly wider han the hook tape as with my bra pictured, push the ends of the bra inside the fold of the hook tape with a needle or stitch ripper.

    • – Use the same zigzag stitch along the edges of the bra back, catching the bra back fabric into the hook tape, and neatening the edges.

    1.7. To replace the eye side of the bra fastening you have a couple of choices, depending on your skill level and how you would like to finish the bra repair.

    • The eye part of the bra fastening comes attached to elastic. If you prefer not to have this elastic you can unpick the zigzag seam holding it as indicated by the point of my scissors in the image below.
    • If you choose to do this you would attach the eye part to the bra in exactly the same way as with the hooks, only with the eyes facing the right side of the left bra back.
    1. 8. You may wish to keep the elastic in. This is a bonus, especially if the original hooks and eyes were damaged due to the bra fitting too tightly.
      • – By using the elastic, you are creating more ease in the bra back for a more comfortable fit and also protecting the new hooks and eyes from resulting in similar damage.
      • – If you are keeping the elastic in you will need to trim it down to the length that you will need. Add 2cm on to your desired length.
    1. 9. Place the left side bra back right side down and lay the raw edge of the elastic over the top, also face down, overlapping by 1cm. Pin in place.
    1. 10. Change your machine presser foot back to your universal foot and stitch a line of straight stitch through all layers to secure the eye elastic to the bra back.

    1.11. Lay the bra back right side facing down and fold the eye piece back on itself, towards the body of the bra.

    • Next fold it back on itself again to the outside of the bra, enclosing the raw edges inside the rolled seam. Pin in place.
    1. 12. Sew a line of stitching down each long edge of the rolled fabric to create a sort of fell seam.
      • – This will be very bulky and challenging to push under the machine foot so you may wish to use the point of your embroidery scissors again, or a Curved Tailors Awl to assist it through, again, being very careful!
    1. 13. Now, fix the hooks and eyes together and your bra repair is complete

    And you’re finished, well done!

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    Sew A Spa Set Series #6: Sew Reusable Cotton Pads

    Sew A Spa Set Series #6: Sew Reusable Cotton Pads

    As we all start to look at simple ways we can reduce our waste, the bathroom is a great place to make some simple swaps! Did you know that disposable make up remover pads can often contain plastic?! Switching to reusable cotton pads is a quick and easy swap to help reduce your waste.

    This tutorial is part of our  Sew A Spa Set Series – check the  Intro post  to see what else you can make for a relaxing day or evening pampering yourself, or a loved one and would make a great gift.

    This project is also a great little scrap buster!

    Reusable cotton pads

    We’ve used bamboo towelling rather than cotton towelling here (but who’s heard of Bamboo Pads?!) so we’re using poetic license when we’re calling these cotton pads…

    There’s a good reason why we’re using bamboo though – it’s far more sustainable than cotton. Read more about Bamboo Towelling’s eco-credentials in our full guide here

    There are 6 items that make up the Spa Set and if you’re pushed for time, each of these handmade items would make a great small gift on their own.

    Sew A Spa Set banner

    You can use out template or size up, or change the shape to a square (and make up using the same process) to make reusable baby wipes or rounds.

    We hope you enjoy sewing and gifting these handmade items!

    Important Notes:
    • 1cm /  ⅜” seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
    • We used an overlocker to finish our seams. If you don’t have an overlocker check out this post for other seam finishing options
    • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
    • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice – we recommend pre-washing all fabrics used in this project as they will be used to make items that will be washed frequently

    To make One Reusable Cotton Pad

    Sewing Kit You Will Need:

    Making the Reusable Cotton Pads

    1. Pre-wash your fabrics

    We recommend pre-washing all fabrics used in this project as they will be used to make items that will be washed frequently

    2. Print the cotton pad templates

    Print off the Spa Set Templates ensuring you print at 100%. If you haven’t already, request your pattern here.

    Please note: This free pattern has been sized to print on A4 paper.

    3. Cut your fabrics & notions

    To make one pad cut out:

    • 1x Circle from Bamboo Towelling
    • 1x Circle from Patterned Cotton
    • 1x Back loop from Patterned Cotton
    4. Assemble The Cotton Round

    Sew the loop

    • On the loop pattern piece, fold the long edges over 1cm / ⅜” and press.

    Making the makeup rounds step 1

    • Fold the entire rectangle lengthwise again to the middle and press.

    Making the makeup rounds step 2

    • Top stitch down both sides of the rectangle.

    Making the makeup rounds step 3

    Making the makeup rounds step 4

    Assemble the pad

    • Pin the rectangle to RS (right side) of the Cotton fabric circle of your pad. Make sure there is a little space to slide your fingers between the loop and the pad, this will mean the loop is not flat against the pad.
    Making the makeup rounds step 5
    • Baste the edges where the rectangle meets the circle edge.
    • Place the bamboo towelling circle RS together with the Cotton circle, sandwiching the loop in between. Pin in place and stitch around the circle with a 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance, leaving an opening to turn it out the right way.
    Making the makeup rounds step 6
    Making the makeup rounds step 7
    • Pink or clip the seam allowance. Turn the pad out through the opening you left. 
    Making the makeup rounds step 8
    • Fold in the seam allowance at the opening.
    • Top stitch 3mm / ⅛” around the edge of the circle to finish and close the opening.
    Making the makeup rounds step 9
    Making the makeup rounds step 10

    And you’re finished, well done!

    We’re nearly there! We hope you’ve enjoyed our Sew A Spa Set Series so far. The very last tutorial is a Round Makeup Bag to store all of your handmade goodies in!

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