Free Exposed Zipper Pouch Pattern & Tutorial

For the love of cute! We are totally smitten with these decorative star zippers… Not only is there a cute star zip pull, but there are cut-out stars along the zipper tape! Inserting these decorative exposed zips has a slightly different construction method to regular zips so we just HAD to put together a tutorial for you to show off their star splendour. Read on for our Exposed Zipper Pouch free pattern & tutorial.

This free pattern has been sized and designed to fit these 25cm Star Lace Edge Decorative Zips. If you have smaller 20cm Lace edge Zips to hand then go check out this post as the pattern there fits a smaller length zip

In the free pattern there are 2 options available for you to sew.

• A sewing project for:  Adventurous beginner
• Finished Dimensions: 26cm x 17cm 
• Approximate sewing time:  in an afternoon

 Important Notes:

• 1cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

• For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.

• When top stitching – use a 3-3.5mm length & stitch approx 3mm from the seam

• Prepare your fabrics as per the manufacturer’s care advice

• WST = Wrong Sides Together

• RST = Right Sides Together

• Read through the instructions fully before starting

• We use fusible fleece in this project which can add bulk to your seams. We trim these out but you may prefer to cut the fleece without the seam allowance

You Will Need:

For Option 1:

Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

• Sewing machine

• Co-ordinating sewing thread

• Pressing Cloth

• Fabric Scissors OR rotary cutter, mat & ruler

• Tape Measure or ruler

• Pins or Clips

• Bamboo Point Turner

• Temporary fabric marker 

• Co-ordinating sewing thread

• Basic Sewing Kit

Make Life easier with

• Curved Tailors Awl / Hook

• Wonder Clips

• Applique Scissors

Let’s make the Free Exposed Zipper Pouch Pattern!

Step 1: Request Free Exposed Zipper Pouch Pattern

Print & Assemble your pattern pieces. You can request the pattern here. This pattern has been sized to print on A4 paper.

IMPORTANT: Use the 1” / 2cm test square to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check print settings. Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the ‘fit to page’ option.

Step 2

Cut out your fabrics and interfacings according to the pouch option you are making

For Option 1

From Pattern Piece 1  :

• 2 x outer

• 2 x lining

• 2 x fusible fleece

• 2 x woven interfacing

For Option 2

From Pattern Piece 1  :

• 2 x lining

• 2 x fusible fleece

From Pattern Piece 2  :

• 2 x outer main

• 2 x woven interfacing

From Pattern Piece 3  :

• 2 x outer contrast

• 2 x woven interfacing

Step 3: Apply the interfacings 

1. Iron the woven interfacing to the wrong side of your outer fabrics For full instructions on how to apply woven interfacing please check out this post 
2. Iron on fusible fleece to the lining following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 4: (Option 2 only) Sew the outer panel

3. Take 1 x outer main and 1 x outer contrast & place RST & sew along the longest edge. Repeat for the other 1 outer panel.

4. Press seams open, and then towards the darker fabric. Topstitch close to the seam line, if desired.

Step 5: Prepare the panels

5. On the top edge of your pouch mark 1cm in from each edge on all the outer & lining pieces

6. With outer panel & lining RST sew along the top edge between the marks you’ve just made

7. Repeat for the remaining outer & lining panels
8. Cut away the fusible fleece from the seam allowance taking care not to snip through your stitching or fabric. Applique scissors are a great tool for this job.

9. Using a pressing cloth, carefully press the seams open ensuring the iron doesn’t touch the fusible fleece. Then press the seam allowance towards the lining. You should have a crisp seam line.
10. Understitch: open out the panel and make sure the seam allowance is pressed to the lining side. Sew the seam allowance to the lining side, sewing approx. 2mm from the seamline between the marks. This will ensure your lining is not vising and the panels “roll away” from the zip. Your lining will now look like this

11. Fold the panel along the seamline with WST, then cover with a pressing cloth and press.
12. Repeat steps 5-11 for the other outer & lining panel.

Step 6: How to insert a lace edge exposed zip

13. Check the zip works.
14. Open one panel out flat and position the zipper teeth so they are on the lining side of the seam, close to the seamline.
15. Tape the zip in place with the Scotch Magic Tape.

16. Sew the zip with co-ordinating thread using your zipper foot between the marks

17. Repeat steps 14 – 16. for the other panel ensuring the 2 panels line up. Folding the lining of the first panel under it’s outer.

Step 7: Assemble the zipper pouch

18. Check the zip then leave the pull halfway
19. Open out the panels to bring the 2 x outer and 2 x lining fabrics right sides together and pin/ clip the bottom edges together.
20. Sew both bottom edges, leaving a 10cm turning gap in the lining.
21. Align the zip tape ends and pin/ clip them together.
22. Pin/ Clip and sew the 2 sides.
23. [Optional but recommended] Trim out the fusible fleece from the seam allowances

24. One at a time open out the corners and align the side and base seam lines with the seam allowances open.
25. Align the edges, then pin then sew them together.

26. Turn the pouch out the right way

27. Sew the gap in the lining closed using either machine or hand sew with ladder stitch

And you’re finished. Congratulations!