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Free Peg Bag Pattern & Sewing Tutorial

Free Peg Bag Pattern & Sewing Tutorial

by | May 30, 2022 | Project Ideas, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

♻️ Line drying your laundry rather than tumble drying is going to save both energy & money (and goodness knows we need all the help we can get right now!)  The planet thanks you for pegging! ♻️

Our original 20-minute peg bag tutorial still is one of the most viewed tutorials on the blog and it was one of the earliest I did… Call me vain, but it makes me cringe every time I look at it – I definitely didn’t have the Photoshop skills I do now! At least it’s a reminder of how far I’ve come 🙂

So…. in honour of the sunshine arriving & the popularity of that early post, I’ve revamped the peg bag tutorial and made the whole project a little more polished with a peg bag pattern to boot which you can access further down the post…

It’s still important to me to have a peg bag that has some water protection – it can’t just me that leaves the peg bag on the line and gets rusty pegs when it rains?! In the original tutorial, I lined the bag with waterproof PUL, but in this one, I’m choosing to use ODIF Odicoat Gel to provide some water protection.

You could definitely still use PUL with this pattern – just switch out the lining and/ or the interfacing for Waterproof PUL.

This peg bag is still based around a child’s coat hanger AND it’s still a really quick make. This one will take you a little longer than 20 minutes – but I reckon you’ll still make this in well under an hour (excluding the Odicoat gel that is)

I hope you enjoy my rather more polished project and make one to pimp up your laundry routine!

Peg Bag Pattern: A Sewing Project for a Confident Beginner

Approximate sewing time: Around an hour

Finished Dimensions: 30cm x 30cm (excluding the coat hanger)

Important Notes:

  • 1cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
  • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
  • When topstitching – use a 3-3.5mm length & stitch approx 3mm from the seam
  • Prepare your fabrics as per the manufacturer’s care advice
  • If you use Odicoat then ensure you use greaseproof paper as a barrier when you dry press
  • RST = Right Sides Together
  • WST = Wrong Sides Together
  • Read through the instructions fully before starting

You Will Need:

  • 40cm Cotton Fabric A for peg bag exterior
  • 40cm Cotton Fabric B for peg bag exterior
  • 1m 25mm Bias Binding
  • 40cm Light- Medium weight interfacing (I recommend Vlieseline / Vilene Cotton Woven Interlining Light G710)
  • *Optional* ODIF ODICOAT Fabric Coating Gel  for water resistance
  • A child’s coat hanger [affiliate link]

    Equipment:

    • Sewing machine
    • Sewing Thread
    • Fabric Scissors OR rotary cutter, mat & ruler
    • Tape Measure or ruler
    • Pins or Clips
    • Pinking Shears or rotary cutter pinking blade 
    • Basic Sewing Kit

    A note on optional water-resistant coating for your peg bag

    This is completely optional, but by applying a water-resistant coat of ODIF Odicoat gel to your peg bag it will help your project last longer, as well as helping to protect your pegs from rusting if your peg bag gets rained on.

    Free Peg Bag Pattern Sewing Tutorial

    1. *Optional: Odicoat the exterior fabric 

    If you plan to apply an Odicoat water-resistant coating to your peg bag now is the optimal time to apply it. If (like me!) you didn’t apply the gel to the fabrics ahead of time you can always apply the gel to your finished peg bag but it’s not as easy to get an even finish with the gel.  Follow our Odicoat tutorial here.

    2. Download & print the free peg bag pattern

    Download a copy of the peg bag pattern here Please note, this pattern has been designed to print on A4 paper

    Peg Bag Pattern Printable [final]

    275KB ∙ PDF file

    Download

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    • Print your pattern on A4 paper at 100%. Check the squares on the pattern measure 1in/ 2cm
      Tape it together in the following layout:

    • Check your coat hanger fits inside the top front pattern piece, remembering there is a 1cm seam allowance. Our pattern has been sized for these coat hangers [affiliate link]. If the “shoulders” of your coathanger are outside of the pattern, just trace around the coathanger shape, enduring you keep a horizontal line at the top of the pattern.

    3. Cut & prepare your fabrics

    You can block fuse the interfacing onto your exterior fabric and cut it out at the same time as the exterior fabric if you wish

    Exterior Fabric A :

    • 1 x back 

    • 1 x front top

    • 1 x front bottom

    Lining Fabric B:

    • 1 x back 

    • 1 x front top

    • 1 x front bottom

    Interfacing

    • 1 x back 

    • 1 x front top

    • 1 x front bottom

    • Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the exterior pieces following the manufacturer’s instruction if you have not block fused your interfacing.

    4. Sew your pattern pieces

    • With RST sew the back exterior & lining panels at the top edge only with a ¼” seam allowance. Repeat for the front top panel & press seams open (using greaseproof paper as a barrier if you have used Odicoat) and fold along the seam line, fabrics wrong sides together. Press again.

    • Baste: For each pattern piece, baste the exterior and lining fabrics together with WST

    5. Apply bias binding 

    • Starting with the front bottom panel, apply the bias binding to the curved edge, leaving a bias binding overhang on each side. Repeat for the top front panel on the straight edge.

    • Once you have sewn the first bias stitching line it’s a good idea to back the curved edge close to the seam line with pinking shears to help the bias binding lie flat.

    6. Assemble the peg bag

    • Lay your basted panels in the following order on your work table & pin/ clip around the exterior edge

      1. Back panel exterior side up

      2. Front bottom exterior side down

      3. Front top exterior side down

    • Sew all the way the round edge of your peg bag ensuring you leave the gap at the top of the bag for your coat hanger to fit though that you stitched earlier. Backstitch over the bias binding ends a few times to reinforce the peg bag opening

    • Finish your internal seams with your preferred seam finishing method (we choose to overlock) See this post if you need more detailed instructions 

    • Turn to the right side and press

    7. Optional Odicoat

    • It is far better to apply the Odicoat gel before you start sewing, but sometimes life gets in the way of such forward planning! If you haven’t already & want to, apply the Odicoat gel to your finished project. Place a piece of greaseproof paper inside the peg bag to stop the gel going on the lining & between coats check the gel hasn’t pooled on the underside of the bag before letting it to dry, as per our full Odicoat tutorial here.

    And you’re finished, well done!

    Did this tutorial help you? If it did I’d appreciate it if you’d leave a comment or a ❤️ on this post to help other people find my work! And if you’d like to hear more from me I’d love it if you would subscribe below… thanks so much!

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    How to repair a trouser pocket: Care & Repair Series #3

    How to repair a trouser pocket: Care & Repair Series #3

    by | May 19, 2022 | Care and Repair, Haberdashery, Haberdashery Guides, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

    Welcome to post number 3 in our Care & Repair Series! Hand up if you love a pocket?! 🙋‍♀️ Pockets are a complete joy to dressmakers everywhere… but what if your pocket wears out? In this post we’re going to walk you through how to repair a pocket. This method can be used for trousers or skirts.

    You can also use this method to repair a pocket in a shop bought garment if the pockets are too small for your needs. The joys of sewing, eh?!

    Read on to learn how to repair a pocket… it’s easier than you think. We’ve even got a no sew option for you…

    Pockets are great for keeping all kinds of useful stuff…  from your phone, to loose change, even the occasional biscuit! Because pockets are so well used, they come under huge amounts of wear & tear.

    Pocket bags are usually made from a thinner fabric than the outer trousers or skirt and so holes can be commonplace. And instead of outing a garment and sending it to landfill just because your keys are falling through a pocket hole you can learn to replace the pockets instead. It’s a win for the planet!

    Soap box alert! When it comes to pockets in girls’ and women’s clothing. As a general rule of thumb, female fashions have sported pockets that are for purely fashion reasons rather than practical ones.

    This certainly annoys my daughter who feels the need to fill her pockets with stones and twigs at every given opportunity. So here I am repairing a hole in her jeans pocket but also extending the pocket bags for her.

    In this post we’re going to walk you though

    • How to replace a pocket bag using sewing
    • How to replace a pocket without sewing
    • Create larger pocket bags for your garments

    Tutorial: How To Replace A Trouser Pocket

    Skill level required: Beginner Friendly

    Some important notes about replacement pocket products

    • Replacement pockets come as whole pockets. You can cut them down to the size you require or use them to replace the whole pocket if needed.
    • We are concentrating on trouser pockets here but the same method, and replacement pockets, can be used to repair pockets in trousers, skirts, jeans, dresses, jackets and more. Just check the pocket sizes against your garment as each one differs.
    • In this post we are using two different products, a sew-in version and an iron-on version. It is up to you to choose which is the most suitable for your needs.
    • The sew in pockets are trickier to use and require some sewing knowledge but they will last a very long time.
    • The iron on pockets are far simpler to use and don’t require any sewing at all but the repair may not last as long as sewn in pockets.
    • These pockets are are suitable to replace cotton, nylon, or polyester pockets.

      You Will Need:

      How to replace a pocket : The Sew In Method

       

       

      • Identify where the hole is in your pocket.
        • Draw a line in a washable fabric pen just above the damage.
        • If the pocket flap is stitched into the side seam, cut along this edge 1cm.
      •  Trim the damaged part of the pocket away along the line you have drawn.

      Trim the damaged part of the pocket away along the line you have drawn.

      • To mark the new pocket:
        • Lay the replacement pocket underneath the original pocket, lining up the edges. 
        • Make sure the folded edge is lined up with the folded edge of the original pocket and the seamed edge with the side seam. 
        • Allow for as much additional pocket bag as you wish to add.
        • Pin the two pockets together
        • Using the fabric marker, trace the edge of the original pocket onto the replacement pocket. 
      • Turn the raw edges outwards and line them up so that the new pocket and original line up. 
      • Stitch along the circumference to join the two pockets together using a 1cm seam allowance. 
      • Finish the raw edges in your preferred way, either pinking, zigzag stitch, overcasting stitch, or overlocker, to prevent fraying. 
      • Press the seam
      • Top stitch the side edge back to the side seam of the trousers to finish your mending project.

      If you would like to repair your pocket by hand sewing then check out Hemline’s video here

      How to replace a pocket : The Iron On  Method

      1. Start in the same way as you did with the sew in pocket.
      • Mark a line above where the damage is and cut along this line.
      • If your pocket is sewn into the side seam, cut along this edge approx. 1.5cm.
      1. Insert the bottom edge of the pocket into the replacement pocket, making sure the adhesive tape covers the pocket fabric.
      • Pin it in place.
      • Using a hot iron and a damp cloth press the adhesive tape pressing firmly
      1. Repeat the pressing on both sides of the pocket making sure to heat all of the tape.
      • Leave the pocket to cool for 10-20 minutes before moving it, allowing the adhesive to bond properly.

      Your pocket repair is complete!

       

      You can also check out Hemline’s video on how to use this product here

      We hope you found that helpful! Do let us know how you get on if you repair a pocket

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      Washable & Reusable Bin Liner Sewing Tutorial

      Washable & Reusable Bin Liner Sewing Tutorial

      by | May 11, 2022 | My Makes, Project Ideas, PUL Projects, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

      We’re always looking for new ways to go zero waste here at Plush Towers & one item we have been keen to ditch is the plastic waste-bin liner and we have been looking for a reusable alternative…

      As the world, quite rightly, moves away from single use plastic bags that at one time many of us used to line small waste bins we have been pondering what a zero-waste replacement could be. We thought it was time to unleash into the world a tutorial for a reusable & washable waste bin liner!

      This washable bin liner is the perfect zero-waste solution for all those light use bins in the bedroom, office or bathroom…

      Reusable Bin Liner Sewing Tutorial

       

      Anatomy of the washable bin liner

      Outer Fabric: We’ve used waterproof PUL as the lining fabric in this project.

      Why this fabric you might ask?! We figured it was the perfect fabric choice for handling lightly soiled bathroom items such as cotton pads or ears buds. Choosing waterproof PUL means there there won’t be any unwanted leaks through to the exterior of the bin liner…

      It also means if you live with people that insist on chucking away their banana skins in their bedrooms that get buried & forgotten about you won’t get any leaky food waste either, ha!

      Lining Fabric: For the liner outer we’ve used calico as it’s economical , but you can use any cotton. This part of the liner generally won’t be seen (unless your bin has lots of hole in it) so this is a great opportunity to use up your stash, or this as a great chance re-purpose or upcycle some other fabric.

      Contrast Fabric: We wanted to give you the option to make it pretty so we’ve used a small amount of quilting fabric as an accent to give you the chance to match to your decor, or add a touch of personality to your bin. This fabric is actually part of the lining but appears on the exterior of the bin once folded over.

      The whole liner is held securely in place by fold over elastic at the liner’s opening edge.

      The method we’ve described in this tutorial would also work perfectly for washing baskets, laundry baskets, nappy bins, kitchen bins… You can use the same method for storage baskets (any size) to prevent leaking, damage, snags & scrapes!

      We’re going to show you how to draft a pattern for a circular 3D vessel – in this case your waste bin – which you can apply to a variety of other storage projects! Follow along and you can draft your own pattern to fit any size circular bin or basket.

      By using a liner you will be reducing your plastic use and waste, and become more conscious as to what waste you are producing, sewing a sustainable and useful project! 

      How to launder your reusable bin liner

      • We recommend that your fabrics are pre-washed before you start this project.
      • This liner is designed for light use waste bins so it can usually be laundered at 30 degrees.
      • If you decide to use it for “messier” bins that might harbour higher bacterial growth, you can launder these fabrics at 60 degrees but it’s imperative you pre-wash everything at that temperature first. Washing consistently at 60 degrees may reduce the life of the cotton fabrics.
      • We recommend air drying this project after laundering. We do not recommend tumble drying PUL as regular tumble drying can delaminate PUL fabric over time.

      A sewing project for Adventurous Beginners

      Finished Dimensions: Depends on the size of your bin – we used this bin [affiliate link]

      With the following dimensions: Dia 25.5cm x H 31cm / Dia 10” x H 12”

      Approximate sewing time: An afternoon

      Important Notes:

      • Pre-wash your fabrics
      • 1cm ⅜” seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
      • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
      • We have overlocked our seams but if you don’t have an overlocker you can check out this post for other seam finishing ideas
      • When top stitching – use a 3-3.5mm length & stitch approx 3mm from the seam
      • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice
      • RST = Right Sides Together
      • WST = Wrong Sides Together
      • Read through the instructions fully before starting
      • Please note that pins can create permanent holes in PUL. we recommend using clips

      You Will Need:

      The requirements given below are enough for a similarly sized bin to this bin which measures Diameter 25.5cm x Height 31cm / Diameter 10” x Height 12”

      If your bin is a different size draw the pattern out and then calculate what you need from the pattern.

      Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

      Draw Your Reusable Bin Liner Pattern

      1. Measure & draft the pattern pieces for your bin:

      You need to take a few measurements to work out how to draw your pattern pieces. We realised this can seem daunting for some people so we’ve worked hard to make it as accessible and easy to follow as we can.

      We’ve put together:

      • A video (below) for those that prefer visual instruction
      • Detailed written instructions & a handy printable which has a calculations table for you to complete with your own bin measurements. Use this for fool proof pattern drafting!
      • A worked example

      The video & printable are designed to work together and compliment each other.

      Request the pattern drafting printable

      Measure your bin

      Cutting Out The Fabrics

      Cut the following :

      • From Fabric A (Contrast Top): 4 x Contrast Top rectangles
      • From Fabric B (Calico Cotton) : 2 x side panels & 1 x base circle
      • From Fabric C (PUL lining): 2 x sides and 1 x base circle
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      3. Constructing the reusable bin liner

      • With RST, sew the side seams of the 2 x calico side panels  together, using a 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance
      • Repeat for the PUL side panels
      • Mark the quarter points: On both outer & lining sewn side panels & the base circles, mark ¼ points :
        • On the side panels, fold the fabric on the seam & smooth & fold it across; the seam line is a one-quarter point & the fold crease is another. Bring those points together & smooth the fabric out to the sides; mark where the next 2 folds form.
        • For the base circle, fold it in half, make marks at each end of the fold line. Fold it in half again and mark both layers of fabric where they fold.
      • Take the PUL side panel & base & match up the marked 1/4 points & pin
      • Now pin the fabric between the ¼ points, using the snips to help ease the fabric around the outer edge if you need to. Align the fabric edges & pinning where the seam line will be sewn will help accuracy.
      • Sew in place using a 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance. If you have a walking foot use this as it will help if the fabric is slippery. You could also use your overlocker if you have one.
      • Repeat the same steps on the Calico side panels & base circle
      • Add the contrast panel: Take 2 of the top contrast panels & place RST. At the shorts ends sew in place using a 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance. This will create two fabric “loops”.
      • Repeat for the other 2 top contrast panels. You should now have 2 “loops” in the contrast fabric
      • With RST, pin one top contrast loop to the Calico part of the liner along the top of the exterior bin liner, matching at the seams. Sew in place around the loop.
      • Repeat, sewing the remaining top contrast loop to the the PUL part of the liner.
      • Put the PUL lining of the bin liner, wrong sides together with the Calico exterior. Line up the 2 x top contrast panels, match at the seams & pin. Baste the outer and lining together at the top
      • Attach the fold over elastic: Take your bin and pull the elastic firmly around the part of the bin where the top contrast fold over will sit. Measure where it fits comfortably and then take a few cm off this length so that when in place, the bin liner will fit snugly to the bin & keep the liner in place.

      Measure Fold Over Elastic

      • Apply the fold over elastic using your preferred method: Please refer to our post here for detailed instructions on the different methods you can use to apply fold over elastic.

       

      DIY Reusable & Washable Bin Liner

       

      And you’re finished, well done!

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      How To Use Fold Over Elastic

      How To Use Fold Over Elastic

      by | May 3, 2022 | Haberdashery, Haberdashery Guides, Product Guides, Tutorials

      Have you heard about fold over elastic? Ever wondered what this product is, where it can be used and how to apply fold over elastic?

      You’re in the right place! In this product guide we’re going to shine a light on all things fold over elastic so grab a cuppa and read on!

      In this Fold Over Elastic product guide we will be covering:
      • What Is Fold Over Elastic
      • What Is Fold Over Elastic Used for?
      • How to Sew Fold Over Elastic

      What is Fold Over Elastic?

      Fold Over Elastic (or ‘FOE’ for short) is a thin, lightweight, flat elastic which has a crease down the centre of its length. The crease makes it easy to fold in half along the length, encasing the seam edge of your pattern piece.

      Sometimes fold over elastic has a matte side & a shiny side – the shiny side is the ‘right’ side and the matte side is the ‘wrong’ side.

      Fold Over Elastic comes in a wide variety of colours & patterns – we have a great selection of printed options and almost every colour you can imagine!

      CHECK OUT OUR FOLD OVER ELASTIC RANGE

      Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

      What is Fold Over Elastic Used for?

      Anywhere you need a stretchy binding in a funky colour or print really!

      Some popular project ideas for fold over elastic are:

      • Legs, waistbands and armholes on lingerie, underwear & swimwear
      • Edge finishes on shorts, vests and other undergarments
      • Edge finishes on sportswear/activewear
      • Cloth nappies
      • Edge finishes on expandable pouches and pockets on bags.
      • Simple knotted hair ties
      • Headbands
      • Face Masks

      It can be a nice way to add contrast accents or fun prints to your underwear, sportswear or knit/jersey fabric projects, whilst finishing the raw edges of your seams easily.

      It is usually used to finish armholes, leg holes, waistbands and necklines on garments that need a lot of recovery, and that stretch to stay close to the body with movement, like underwear and other undergarments like vests, tights and leggings.

      Fold over elastic can also be useful in bag making a lot in bag making too for pockets that would benefit from being taut to the bag like these

      From Lovelucie.org
      READ OUR 11 TIPS FOR SEWING MESH FABRIC

      Fold Over Elastic can be sewn on a regular sewing machine, so no need to be wrestling with an overlocker or any fancy feet or accessories!

      Fold Over Elastic has a similar function to bias binding as it completely finishes a raw edge, but fold over elastic can stretch & recover so it keeps the edge close to the body, or it provides a taut edge for pockets on bags etc.

      Usually, the narrower the Fold Over Elastic, the more stretch it has, and the wider it is, the less it stretches. You can usually interchange different widths of Fold Over Elastic in your projects, but make sure you double-check you have the right length as differences in stretch means you will require different lengths, and account for the width in your seam allowances.

      Preparing and Cutting Fold Over Elastic

      Many patterns will call for you to cut your elastic to a specific length, but if no instructions are given, there is an easy way to figure out what length to cut your fold over elastic (or any elastic!) to.

      • Begin by measuring the lengths of the leg openings, waistband, or other pattern piece you are applying the elastic to.
      • Check the stretch of your elastic, if it’s really stretchy, you can get away with the elastic being a little shorter. If it’s quite hard to stretch, you will need the elastic to be a little longer.
      • The general rule is that elastic must be shorter than the length of the edge to which it is being applied to. Deduct 10% from the length of the edge, and this will give you your elastic length. You can also adjust this percentage up or down depending on the stretchiness of your elastic.

      e.g : 50cm is the length of the leg opening. 50-5cm =45cm. 

      45cm is the length of your elastic.

      Adjusting your pattern to use Fold Over Elastic

       

      Using Fold Over Elastic on the edge of your garment means that the edge is finished and enclosed at the width it is cut, so no fabric is removed due to a seam allowance, or folding under and hemming. If you want to use Fold Over Elastic on a project that requires a different finish (like regular elastic or picot trim elastic types), you will need to trim away the excess fabric before using the Elastic. Simply take your pattern piece and trim off the seam allowance width on the edges you want to apply the elastic to.

      If your pattern needs you to use Fold Over Elastic but you don’t have any to hand, and want to use a different finish on the edge, add the seam allowance or hem desired to the edges where the elastic or your other trim will be applied.

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      Sewing and Handling Tips for Fold Over Elastic

      • Needle – A jersey, stretch or ballpoint needle are the best choices, as these needles slide between the fibres rather than piercing them. You might be ok with a universal needle if that’s all you have – just make sure you test first.
      • Thread – Try to match the thread you use with the fibre that makes up the elastic. For most types of Fold Over Elastic a strong, polyester thread would work best, and would also help create strong stitches for any stretch or stress on the item you make. All-purpose Polyester thread is a good choice.
      • Stitch Type – Use either a medium zig zag or a 3 step zig-zag stitch. Set your machine to 2 wide with a stitch length of 2.5 to start then test. This is a good setting to start but stitch lengths/ widths will vary from project to project, so test first to see what works for you.
      • Sewing – Stretch the elastic a little when sewing to evenly distribute across the unfinished edge.
      • Sewing – Try to keep a slow steady pace whilst sewing, and avoid pulling the elastic or the fabric through the machine more than you need to. This will help you avoid gathers or puckers as you won’t stretch the fabric whilst sewing.
      • Sewing – Sew a sample swatch using a square of your final fabric and a length of Fold Over Elastic to help achieve the best tension. Playing around on your machine with a sample means you won’t spend time unpicking your final project if the tension is off. The best tension will vary significantly between different fabrics and elastics, even of the same composition or type.

      Have you read our Ultimate Guide To Sewing Needles post yet?

      How to Sew Fold Over Elastic

      Method 1 : The 2-step method

      This method is perfect for beginners as it secures the elastic and fabric in place before fully attaching the Fold Over Elastic. This means there is less chance of the elastic or fabric slipping out of place.

      The disadvantage of this method however, is that you can see the initial line of stitching from the wrong side of the garment once complete. 

      1. Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic and line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place. To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine. 

      2. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.

      This stitch line will only be visible from the wrong side of your finished garment, but secures the elastic in place on the back side of the fabric.

      1. Carefully trim away the excess fabric in the seam allowance.
      2. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place. 
      1. Stitch in place using a zig zag stitch.

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      Method 2 : The 1-step method

      This method creates the perfect enclosed edge, with a single line of stitching so it’s neater BUT it requires a little more patience and more pins.

      1. Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic.

      Line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place.

      To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine. 

      2. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.

      1. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic. 

      Method 3: The 1 step method (with a little help!)

      This is the same method as above, but with a little additional help that does not show on the final garment.

      1. Apply an adhesive, such as Quilters Tape,  Wundaweb or a regular glue pen (do not use runny glue or PVA) along the edge of the WS of the fabric. If the adhesive is wider than you FOE you can just trim it (or clean your iron after if you get in to trouble here!)
      2. Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic & line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Press in place so the adhesive sticks to the back of the fabric and the Fold Over Elastic. Pin in place. To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine.
      3. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.
      4. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.

      Don’t worry about the garment edge being stiff, as both of these adhesives will dissolve after the first wash.

      Method 4: The 2 step method (with removable basting stitch)

      This is the same method as method 1, but with a basting stitch that can be removed easily.

      1. Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic and line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place if required. Hand stitch/baste in place by hand, using long, fairly loose stitches. Only secure with a knot at one end – this allows for easier removal.

      2. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.

      3. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic. 

      4. Flip over the elastic, and gently pull the basting stitch out of the fabric and elastic. If it is stuck, gently use a seam ripper or small pair of scissors to remove it.

      Sewing Fold Over Elastic in the round

      Sometimes you won’t be able to apply the Fold Over Elastic to a flat edge, where the seam is sewn after to join the two pieces. You will need to apply the Fold Over Elastic in the round on some patterns, on armholes, necklines and even some waistlines. 

      To do this, you need to sew together the ends of the Fold Over Elastic before you apply it to your garment. 

      There are two main methods;

      Method 1 – the straight join

      Simply sew across the ends of the Fold Over Elastic, once cut to the desired length, then pin and sew it to the rounded edge. You can use any of the above methods to apply it in one or two steps, but we recommend trimming away the excess fabric if using the two step method. 

      Method 2 – the mitred join

      A mitred or bias join is where the two ends of the Fold Over Elastic cross at a 90 degree angle instead of aligning as above. This allows you to ease the Fold Over Elastic into the round a little easier as there is ease on the bias as well as the stretch. You cross over the ends of the Fold Over Elastic at a 90 degree angle, then sew from point to point where the top end crosses the bottom end. Trim excess bulk from the seam and then apply as above.

      We hope you found this product guide helpful. Drop us a message with any comments or questions you have!

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      Free Tea Cosy Pattern

      by | Mar 23, 2022 | My Makes, Project Ideas, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

      Hands up if you love a cuppa! Drinking tea is almost a compulsory part of being British, isn’t it?! I love a cuppa and can’t start my day without one. There’s just something about the ceremony of a pot of tea… So my blog wouldn’t be complete without a Free Tea Cosy Pattern, now would it?!

      We get a lot of questions about the best choice of wadding for a tea cosy so we’ll be talking about that too…

       

      Free Tea Cosy Sewing Pattern

      When I was making up the samples of this I tried a couple of different tabs for the top and I couldn’t decide which to go for – so I’ve included both!

      There’s a cute little folded grab handle, or a hanging loop – you decide!

      The contrast band at the bottom is an easy way to elevate the visual interest of this tea cosy, and to use up some pretty coordinating fat quarters.

      Equally, you could just use the lining pattern piece for both the outer and lining of the tea cosy if you wanted to simplify.

      Request your free copy of the tea cosy sewing pattern here

      Send me the Free Tea Cosy Sewing Pattern

      Please note: This pattern has been designed to print on A4 paper

      Sewing Skill Level: Beginner

      Finished Tea Cosy Dimensions: approx 35cm wide x 25cm high

      Approximate sewing time: a couple of hours

      You will need

      Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

      Make Life Easier With

      Important notes:

      • 1cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
      • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
      • When top stitching – use a 3-3.5mm length & stitch approx 3mm from the seam
      • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice
      • WST = Wrong Sides Together
      • RST = Right Sides Together
      • Read through the instructions fully before starting 
      • Disclaimer:
        • Heat and steam will build up within the finished tea cosy, care should be observed when removing it and handling the teapot. To prevent mildew formation, turn tea cosies inside out to release condensation and excess moisture between uses.
        • Insul-Bright is heat resistant not heatproof.
        • Insul-Bright must not be used in the microwave
        • Insul-Bright may dull blades or scissors that cut it

      What’s the best choice of wadding for a tea cosy?

      In truth, you can use any kind of wadding in a tea cosy but I can highly recommend using thermal wadding like Insul-Bright. It’s clever stuff as it keeps hot things hot, and cold things cold!

      I’ve used Insul-Bright in all of my tea cosies and can confirm that it definitely keeps a pot of tea at a hotter temperature for longer

      1.    Print & Assemble The Tea Cosy Sewing Pattern

      • If you’ve not already got the free tea cosy pattern, you can request it here
      • Print the pattern on A4 Paper and tape the pages of the pattern together like the diagram below matching the circles

      This pattern has been designed to print on A4 paper. Use the 1” or 2cm test squares to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check your print settings. Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the ‘fit to page’ option

      2. Cut Out The Fabrics

      Using the pattern pieces cut out the following:

      • Lining: Cut 2 x lining fabric and 2 x Insul-Bright
      • Outer Contrast: Cut 2 x Outer Contrast Fabric
      • Outer Main: Cut 2 x Outer fabric
      • Hanging Loop or Grab Tab : Cut one of either the hanging loop OR the Grab Tab from contrast fabric

      3. Make the Grab Tab or Hanging Loop

      You have a choice of top accent to make –

      1. A grab tab
      2. A hanging loop

      Pick your fave option! But you only need to cut and make one…

      Option 1: Make the Grab Tab
      • Fold the Grab Tab piece in half and press
      • Find the centre point along the folded edge and finger press
      • Bring the 2 outer corners at the folded edge to meet the centre crease line and press to make a point at the fold
      Option 2: Make the Hanging Loop
      • Place the loop piece right side down, fold over and press 1cm of fabric along the two long sides
      • Fold the loop in half lengthways with the raw edges inside and press
      • Sew along the 2 sides of the loop, 2mm from the edge
      • Fold the loop in half and baste 1cm from the raw edges

      4. Assemble The Outer Panels

      • One at a time, clip or pin the Outer Main and Outer Contrast pieces together, right sides facing along the straight edge
      • Press the seam allowances open
      • Fold one of the outer panels in half and mark the centre top
      • Clip the hanging loop (or grab tab) at the centre top of the prepared outer panel, raw edges aligned, loop (or tab) facing downwards and baste in place
      • Line up the 2 prepared outer panels right sides together and clip/ pin around the curved edge
      • Sew the 2 panels together, leaving the bottom open
      • Using pinking shears trim the seam allowance around the curved edge to 2mm from the seam line. Or cut the seam allowance to 1cm then clip small V shaped notches in the seam allowance at 1.5cm intervals. They should be 5mm wide narrowing to a point stopping just before the seam line
      • Turn out the right way and press the seam allowances open. A Tailors Pressing Ham can make pressing curves much easier

      5. Assemble the lining panels

      • Clip 1 piece of Insul-bright onto the wrong side of each lining panel
      • Baste all the way round each panel with a 5mm seam allowance, stitch length 4 or 5 to hold the Insul-Bright in place
      • Sew the lining panels right sides together along the curved edge, leaving the bottom open
      • Clip around the curved edge 
      • Cut the seam allowance to 0.5cm with pinking shears/ rotary blade OR clip small V shaped notches in the seam allowance at 1.5cm intervals. They should be 5mm wide narrowing to a point stopping just before the seam line.

       6. Assemble the tea cosy

      • Take the tea cosy outer and place inside the lining, right sides together taking care to line up the side seams
      • Clip round the bottom edge of the tea cosy, opening the seam allowances at the side seams
      • Sew around the bottom of the tea cosy leaving a 10cm turning gap
      • Reduce the bulk at the bottom of the tea cosy by trimming away the Insul-Bright from the bottom seam. Applique Scissors can make this easier
      • Turn the tea cosy out the right way and clip the opening closed
      • Top stitch all the way round the bottom of the tea cosy 5mm from the edge

      And you’re finished, well done!

      How to Repair Bra Hooks: Care & Repair Series #1:

      How to Repair Bra Hooks: Care & Repair Series #1:

      by | Mar 19, 2022 | Care and Repair, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

      Have you ever wondered if you can repair bra hooks when they get mangled in the wash? Or how you can save a bra that’s perfectly fine, but needs its bra clasp replacing? Keep reading and we’ll give you instructions on how you can quickly & easily complete a bra hook repair.

      In this post you’ll find a full colour tutorial on how you can replace a bra back – it’s really not that tricky either. Yay!

      This is the first post in our new Care & Repair Series…. we hope you find the series useful

      There’s never been a more important time to look after our belongings and Make Do And Mend

      Being able to repair our clothes rather than just replace them is one of the biggest things we can do to contribute to saving our planet right now, and we know so many of our readers are eco-conscience Seam-Stars 💚

      We’ll be publishing a series of helpful Care & Repair tutorials this year which will not only benefit your pocket, but also the planet.

      We’ll be covering topics such as replacing pockets, mending and patching, replacing zips and more!

      But if you’re already a mending whizz and you have some clothes to repair you can check out our really comprehensive care and repair range of products over on the website

      Back to the bras!

      Bras are a garment that every woman owns & wears almost all the time. This means your bras can suffer a great deal of wear and tear. One of the most common things to break over time on a bra are the fastening hooks.

      By repairing your bra hooks on the bras that you already own you can save money AND help reduce waste sent to landfill!

      Read on for info on how to replace your damaged bra hooks rather than have to fork out for another expensive bra!

      Check our full range of Care & Repair products here

      How To Repair Bra Hooks: A Sewing Tutorial
      • Skill level: Beginner
      • Approximate sewing time: It’s a super quick fix!
      Tips To Consider When Replacing Your Bra Clasp
      • Make sure to match your replacement hooks with the original hooks in number and size as best you can
      • Even if only one side of your bra fastening is damaged, make sure you replace both so that the hooks and eyes match up.
      •  The Bra Back replacements come in various different options, 19mm (1 hook), 28mm (2 hooks), 38mm (2 hooks), and 50mm (3 hooks) widths in black, white, and nude. Check out the full range here and select one that matches the bra to be repaired
      • To select the correct size for your bra, measure the width of the current hook and eye parts of your bra and select the width closest to it.
      • It is always best to go a little wider than too narrow, unless it means you will be sewing through a hook or eye.
      • Colour wise, select the colour that best fits the bra. If your bra is a different colour than what is on offer, I suggest selecting the colour which is closest to patterns in the bra, or if it is plain then opt for black if it is a dark colour and white if a pale one

      You Will Need:

      1 Hemline Replacement Bra Back. We used Hemline Bra Back Replacement: 50mm: Nude

      Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

      How to repair bra hooks

      1. 1. Remove the original hooks and eyes on both sides of the bra back.

      1.2. Take the hook portion of the kit and position it on the right side of the bra back (as you look at it).

      • – Fold it around the raw end so that the hooks are on the inside of the back and are laying along the edge.
      • – Pin in place through all layers. If your replacement hook tape is slightly wider than the back of the bra you may wish to hem the edges and turn it through to create a pocket for the bra back instead.
      • – Here, the hooks are slightly narrower than the bra back. I will show you how to rectify this in a moment.
      1. 3. Change the presser foot on your machine to a zipper foot as this will enable you to stitch without the hooks getting in the way of the foot.
        1. – Stitch a line of straight stitch through all layers to hold them in place.
        2. Increase your stitch length to 3-3.5 – don’t worry if the stitches are a little messy.
        3. – You may need to use the point of your embroidery scissors or a Curved Tailors Awl to help feed the fabric through your machine as the bra is so small it may not catch on all of the feed dogs. The fabric seams can also be quite bulky.
        4. – Be careful not to keep your scissors away from the needle!

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      1. 4. Now the hook part is secure, remove the pin.
      1. 5. Keeping the zipper foot on your machine, select a narrow zig zag stitch. Here, I have changed the stitch width to 2.5mm and stitch length to 0.5mm.
        • – Run a line of zigzag stitching along the line of straight stitch and the edge of the hook tape.
        • – The satin stitch will cover up the straight stitch

      1.6. If the back of your bra is slightly wider han the hook tape as with my bra pictured, push the ends of the bra inside the fold of the hook tape with a needle or stitch ripper.

      • – Use the same zigzag stitch along the edges of the bra back, catching the bra back fabric into the hook tape, and neatening the edges.

      1.7. To replace the eye side of the bra fastening you have a couple of choices, depending on your skill level and how you would like to finish the bra repair.

      • The eye part of the bra fastening comes attached to elastic. If you prefer not to have this elastic you can unpick the zigzag seam holding it as indicated by the point of my scissors in the image below.
      • If you choose to do this you would attach the eye part to the bra in exactly the same way as with the hooks, only with the eyes facing the right side of the left bra back.
      1. 8. You may wish to keep the elastic in. This is a bonus, especially if the original hooks and eyes were damaged due to the bra fitting too tightly.
        • – By using the elastic, you are creating more ease in the bra back for a more comfortable fit and also protecting the new hooks and eyes from resulting in similar damage.
        • – If you are keeping the elastic in you will need to trim it down to the length that you will need. Add 2cm on to your desired length.
      1. 9. Place the left side bra back right side down and lay the raw edge of the elastic over the top, also face down, overlapping by 1cm. Pin in place.
      1. 10. Change your machine presser foot back to your universal foot and stitch a line of straight stitch through all layers to secure the eye elastic to the bra back.

      1.11. Lay the bra back right side facing down and fold the eye piece back on itself, towards the body of the bra.

      • Next fold it back on itself again to the outside of the bra, enclosing the raw edges inside the rolled seam. Pin in place.
      1. 12. Sew a line of stitching down each long edge of the rolled fabric to create a sort of fell seam.
        • – This will be very bulky and challenging to push under the machine foot so you may wish to use the point of your embroidery scissors again, or a Curved Tailors Awl to assist it through, again, being very careful!
      1. 13. Now, fix the hooks and eyes together and your bra repair is complete

      And you’re finished, well done!

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