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Make An Easy Reading Cushion Tutorial

Make An Easy Reading Cushion Tutorial

by | Mar 26, 2021 | Interfacing and Interlining, My Makes, Quilt Fabric, Tutorials

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Need an easy reading cushion tutorial?

I don’t know about you, but when I think of reading a book I want to snuggle up somewhere cosy & lose myself among the pages.

This reading cushion tutorial allows you make a cushion that brings all the best things together; a cushion for cosiness, a safe spot for your book & an extra space for a torch, cuddly toy or reading glasses.

The handle makes it easy to escape to your favourite spot. And there is no risk of corner folding savagery… there’s a bookmark too!

Skill level: Adventurous beginner

You will need

We used the following in this reading cushion tutorial:

 

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Important notes for this reading cushion tutorial

 

1 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.

Pre-wash your fabrics

Disclaimer – Strangulation hazard, children must be supervised when using the book pocket cushion.

Cut the fabrics

1. Cut pieces in both fabric & interlining using the measurements above

For the cushion:

  • 1 Cushion front
  • 1 Cushion back

For the bookmark:

  • 2 Bookmark pieces: Choose 2 17.5x6cm panels – cut adding a 5mm border to all sides

For the pocket: *Note the interfacing is cut separately as 1 panel

  • 2 Pocket sides: Choose 2 17.5x25cm panels – cut adding a 1cm border top and bottom and a 5mm border on both sides
  • 1 Pocket centre: Choose 1 8x25cm panel – cut adding a 1cm border at the top and bottom and 5mm border on both sides
  • Pocket Interlining: 45x27cm

Prepare the fabric

2. Apply the fusible interfacing to the cushion front and back

New to woven interfacing? Check out our how to product guide here

Assemble the reading cushion back panel

3. Measure and mark a line 11cm from the shortest edge of the back piece.

4. Cut along the line to form the zip opening.

5. Tidy the 2 raw edges of the zip opening using an overlocker or zig zag stitch.

6. Clip or pin the 2 sides of the zip opening right sides together.

7. Baste along the opening with a 1cm seam allowance.

8. Press the seam open.

Prepare the zip

9. Seal the ends of the tape gently, taking care not to damage the zipper teeth.

Want to know your #5 from your #3 zip? Check out our Zip Type Guide

10. Pull the bottom 10cm of the zipper teeth apart.

11. With the back of the zip pull and back of the tape facing upwards thread 1 end of the tape into the zipper from the top. To make this easier angle the teeth into the pull from the side.

12. Repeat step 4. on the other side. Both sets of teeth should sit toward the top of the clasp.

13. Keeping the 2 sides of teeth level with each other, hold the zip pull between one finger/ thumb then draw the 2 sides of the tape down through the pull with the other hand. The zip pull should then begin to move up the tape.

14. Slide the pull toward the top of the tape (without coming off the other end) then pull it back down to check the zip works.

Top tip:

A fork can help hold the zip pull: tuck the bar of the zip between the central teeth (not the clasp where the teeth need to go). A blob of blue-tack can help keep the fork still.

Sew the zip

15. On the cushion back panel with the zip fastened, align the zipper teeth along the basted seam line. Position the zip, pull side down, end aligned with one edge, pull and excess tape overhanging at the other.

16. Tape or baste the zip in place.

17. Starting at the end nearest the zip pull, begin sewing using a zipper foot. Backstitch at the start then sew down to the bottom of the zip.

18. Stop sewing 5mm from the bottom. Turn and sew across the bottom carefully, backstitching for added strength.

19. Turn and sew along the other side of the zip teeth to the top and backstitch.

20. Remove the tape/ zip basting stitches.

21. Turn the cushion back over and unpick the basting stitches using a seam ripper. Remove all loose threads (a lint roller can help with this) then test the zip.

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Assemble the pocket

22. One at a time, align the edge of a pocket side panel piece with the corresponding edge on pocket centre piece and pin.

23. Sew the pieces together with a 5mm seam allowance then press the seams open.

24. Apply the interlining to the back of the pocket piece.

25. Hem the top of the pocket by folding over and pressing the top 1cm of the panel.

26. Turn the raw edge under to reach the crease and press again to create a hem.

27. Clip and sew along the edge of the pressed hem to secure.

28. Align the bottom of the pocket piece with the bottom of the cushion front.

29. Pin along the seam line that runs between the right and centre pocket panels

30. Sew along the seam line. Backstitch twice at the top of the pocket for strength.

Position the strap

31. Fold the back cushion piece in half and finger press a crease in the centre of the top edge.

32. Position each end of the webbing 7.5cm from the crease and pin with the strap ends and fabric edge aligned.

Assemble the cushion

33. Lay the pieces out in the following order:

  • Cushion front and pocket – right side up
  • Cushion back – right side down with the strap ends to the top (strap tucked down between the layers)

34. Vertically pin the opening end of the zip then unzip it by 10cm.

35. Clip or pin the 4 sides of the cushion together.

36. Sew the easy reading cushion front and back together. Carefully backstitch at each end of the zipper tape, the strap ends and the tops of the pocket for strength.

37. Clip the corners, cut off the excess zip tape (using domestic scissors for the teeth) and turn the cushion out the right way.

38. For a polished finish, press the completed cushion cover.

Make the bookmark

39. Pin the 2 bookmark pieces right sides together.

40. Leaving a 5cm opening, sew around the bookmark with a 5mm seam allowance.

41. Clip the corners and turn out the right way.

42. Press the bookmark

43. Sew 2 lines of top stitching around the bookmark; the first close to the outer edge and the second 5mm in from the 1st

And you’re finished, well done!

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We hope you found this easy reading cushion tutorial useful.

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials. Please tag us @PlushAddict on your fave social media channel… we’d love to see your makes!

What is Fusible Woven Interfacing and How To Use It

What is Fusible Woven Interfacing and How To Use It

by | Mar 19, 2021 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Interfacing and Interlining, Product Guides, Tutorials

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

You have probably noticed our slight obsession with fusible woven interfacing, we use it in lots of our tutorial projects. But it’s easy to see why: check out the ‘spring’ in the fabrics in the photo above – the fabric with interlining sits higher and rolls into a smoother curve.

In this guide, we’re going to talk you through the benefits of woven interfacing and why we love it SO much, give you some project inspiration and walk you through the correct way to apply woven interlining to your fabrics.

What is Fusible Woven Interfacing?

 

Fusible woven interfacing is actually a “normal” piece of fabric with warp & weft threads that are woven together in the traditional way. A layer of adhesive glue is applied to one side which will adhere to other fabric once an iron is applied.

Don’t know your warp from your weft? Check out our Beginner’s Guide to Fabric Basic Post

Woven interfacing (or interlining) is a great way to give your projects a little more structure, making fabrics easier to work with and it’s super simple to apply. Medium weights are great for quilting cottons in projects like cushions; they will sit better but still feel “squishably” soft and it can help non-padded little bags and pencil cases hold their shape.

Grab a cheeky 10% discount off your next Fusible Woven Interfacing purchase with WOVEN10 One time use per customer.

The benefits of using woven interfacing

 

  • Elevates quilt cotton weight fabric to a canvas weight fabric
  • Negates the need for a lining in some projects – saves you money & time!
  • The interlining fabric is made of natural cotton fibres rather than polyester (plastic) so it’s more eco-friendly
  • It’s breathable as it’s a natural fibre
  • It adds structure
  • It adds a luxury feel to your project
  • Machine washable up to 60 degrees
  • Helps reduce the need for ironing on some projects as it retains shape
  • Works with light to medium weight fabrics (the fabric must withstand being ironed at heat setting 3)
  • Gives fabrics a heavier feel
  • Reduces drape
  • Excellent for adding body to quilt cottons to be used in bag making or home dec projects

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In-house at Plush Addict we LOVE woven interfacing for bag making, zipper pouches & cushion covers. It gives a really professional finish to your projects.

Using this interfacing for cushion covers can negate the need for a lining so it saves fabric and makes it easier – especially if you are adding a zipper! It’s also great to use for external pockets – again no lining is required!

Check out this easy reading cushion tutorial to see what we mean

Project ideas for using Woven Interfacing

Projects we’ve used this amazing product in are:

15 Minute Upcycled Fabric Tray Tutorial

How to: Make An Easy Reading Cushion Tutorial

15 Minute Upcycled Fabric Sew A Make-Up Bag: Free Pattern and Tutorial

5 Minute Key Fob Tutorial

Toy Storage Basket and Play Mat Sewing Tutorial

Free DIY Toddler/Cot Bed Duvet Cover Tutorial

Christmas Bow Cushion Tutorial

A note on using woven interfacing in dressmaking projects

The general rule of thumb regarding using any kind of interfacing in dressmaking is that the interfacing should not be heavier than your fashion fabric. Woven interfacing is great when sewing coats, shirts etc, but it as it does reduce the drape of your fashion fabric it’s not best suited for times you wish your fabric to have a good drape.

How to apply fusible woven interfacing

You will need:

We used:

Important notes

  • Pre-wash your fabrics (not the interfacing)
  • Test interlining on a 2″ test square of the fabric to check suitability

Method

1. Cut your fabric: Fabrics can be cut to size/ shape before or after applying interfacing.

2. Smooth out the interlining adhesive side up (it feels slightly rough). Lay the fabric on top right side up with the grain lines aligned.

3. Cut the interfacing to the same size as the piece of fabric.

4. Place the fabric right side down on an ironing board.

5. Smooth the interfacing on top of the fabric, coated side down. Trim any interlining that exceeds the size of the fabric to prevent damage to the ironing surface, or lay on some scrap calico/ fabric

6. Cover with a smooth surfaced cloth; a tea towel or spare cotton are ideal.

7. Lightly dampen the cover using the iron’s spray setting.

8. Adjust the iron to heat setting 3 – cotton, no steam.

9. Starting at one corner work the iron across the cover to lightly adhere the materials together, smoothing out any lumps or ridges as the iron moves across.

10. Lift the cover and check for any bumps. The fabric and interfacing may need peeling apart a little. Recover and lightly press.

11. Once the interfacing is smooth, dampen the cover again.

12. Press, spending 12 seconds on each area to achieve good adhesion.

13. Place the coated fabric somewhere flat to cool fully and set the adhesive.

 

And you’re done!

(Grab a cheeky 10% discount off your next Fusible Woven Interfacing purchase with WOVEN10 One time use per customer.)

Want to try woven interning in the wild? Here are some interlining projects you could try:

We hope you found this tutorial useful!

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

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Centered Zip Tutorial For Beginners

Centered Zip Tutorial For Beginners

by | Mar 19, 2021 | My Makes, Tutorials

Have you ever sewn a centred zip? It’s a great zip for beginners to start off with and it’s really not that hard so we’ve put together this Centered Zip Tutorial for you.

If you’re sewing a centred zipper for the first time or want to gain confidence in inserting them, this great tutorial contains a few tips and tricks to help you sew a centred zip.

Once you’ve mastered lining up the zipper tape, which can be the trickiest part, you’ll be able to insert a zipper with confidence and experiment with different types.

Zips! The most frequent task we are asked for help with. And something many get nervous about. With practice and a few surprising tools to hand they aren’t as tricky as you think.

What is a Centred Zip?

A centred zip is a type of zipper insertion in which the zip teeth are centred between the fabric. The fabric covers the sides of the zipper equally meeting in the middle and you are able to see the stitch on either side of the zip.

How to Sew a Centred Zip

 

Skill Level: Adventurous Beginner

You Will Need:

  • A simple zip project; try our cushion tutorial here or a pencil case.
  • A zip 1″ longer than needed, the length of the zip refers to the zip teeth, do not include the tape ends.
  • Contrasting thread for basting
  • Matching thread for sewing
  • Zipper foot
  • Medium weight interfacing

Optional additional resources:

  • Ghost tape (cloudy sticky tape/ Scotch Tape)
  • Lint roller

Top Tip:
While getting the hang of zips, insert them as the first step of your project; it’s far easier to work with flat fabric and it takes the pressure off any potential ‘whoops’ moments.

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Step 1:

Apply a strip of interfacing to each side of the zip opening*. The 2 strips need to be the full length and width of the zip, not exceeding the length of the fabric.

Step 2:

Tidy the raw edges of the zip opening. Use a non-bulky method; zig zag stitch or overlocking are ideal.

Step 3:

Clip the 2 sides of the zip opening right sides together.

Step 4:

Baste along the zip opening with a 1.5cm seam allowance and contrasting thread.

Step 5:

Press the seam open.

*interfacing is not needed for heavier weight fabrics unless they are loosely woven.

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Step 6:

Align the zipper teeth along the seam line. Position the zip pull side down zip bar at the bottom of the project, pull overhanging the top.

Step 7:

Tape the zip in place.

Step 8:

Starting at the top of the project nearest the zip pull, begin sewing using a 2.5 straight stitch length and a zipper foot. Backstitch at the start then sew down to the bottom of the zip. If the zip has a metal bar be careful near the bottom.

Step 9:

Stop sewing just below the bottom bar. Turn and sew across the bottom carefully. Backstitch for added strength.

Step 10:

Turn and sew along the other side of the zip teeth to the top and backstitch

Step 11:

Turn the project over and unpick the basting stitches using a seam ripper. Remove all loose threads (a lint roller can help with this) then test the zip.

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How do I sew a centered zip into a project?

 

To sew the centered zip into the project, vertically pin the opening end of the zip in place then unzip it by 3cm or more before sewing. Carefully backstitch when sewing over the zipper teeth. Excess zip tape can then be cut off.

Zip tips

  • The edge of the zip foot should run alongside the zipper teeth with the needle on the side closest to the teeth.
  • Start sewing on the side that has the least bulk under the sewing machine arm.
  • To keep the zip tape/ seam aligned, sew slowly, keep the edge of the zip tape at the same depth along the seam allowance, the edge or the seam tidying can provide a guideline. Use the presser foot as a guide for keeping the seamline straight; part of it may align with the zipper teeth or part of the zip tape.
  • If alignment is still proving tricky, try sewing from the right side of the fabric, mark just above the bottom bar with a pin to mark where to stop.

We hope you found this centered zip tutorial useful!

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more step-by-step tutorials!

Upcycled Denim Bag Tutorial

Upcycled Denim Bag Tutorial

by | Mar 16, 2021 | Denim, My Makes, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

If you have some tired looking jeans, their destination doesn’t need to be the charity rag bag yet. Give them a new lease of life with a transformation into this fabulous handbag using this upcycled denim bag tutorial.

Treat yourself to a new bag – from old jeans!

There is a massive selection of bag hardware & accessories here at Plush Addict, so let your creativity flow and produce a one of a kind masterpiece.

 

Skill level: Intermediate Seam-Star

 

You will need:

 

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable upcycled denim bag tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Important notes for sewing the upcycled denim bag:

 

1.5 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.

Pre-wash your fabrics

You will need a strong sewing machine for steps 19 and 24, some machines may struggle with these steps

Please note: The images and video clips were taken during pattern testing, if the pattern pieces appear a different size to your’s and the steps sequenced differently, don’t panic & trust the instructions!

Print and cut the pattern

 

1. Sign up here to be emailed the pattern piece file.

Use the 1” test square to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check print settings. Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the ‘fit to page’ option.

Cut your fabrics

 

2. Using the pattern, cut out the following from BOTH outer & lining fabrics:

2 Side panels
2 Top panels
1 Base panel
From outer only:
2 D ring tabs

If you would like to read our full guide with tips on sewing denim fabric, check out our fabric guide here

Read Our Full Denim Fabric Guide

Top tips:

  • Some denim has graduated fading, before sewing lay out the pieces and plan which direction you want the graduations to flow on your finished denim upcycled bag.
  • Unpick the inside leg seams on jeans to lie them flat

Check your zip

 

3. Open and close the zip to ensure it moves freely.

Assemble the zip panel

4. Place one top panel outer piece right side up. Align the edge of the zipper tape with the edge of the top panel right side down. Set the open end of the zip 1.5cm back from the end of the panel. Clip the zip in place

5. Baste along the edge of the zipper tape, the full length of the top panel, with a 5mm seam allowance. Use a zipper foot, stitch length 4.

6. Align a top panel lining piece right side down with the basted seam and outer top panel piece. The 2 top panel pieces should be right sides facing with the zip sandwiched between them.

7. Using a zipper foot sew the three layers together with a 1cm seam allowance.

8. Top stitch alongside the zip on the outer fabric only; using a zipper foot sew along the outer fabric 2mm from the edge.

9. Repeat steps 4 to 8 for the other side of the zip using the remaining top panel pieces.

10. At the end of the zip panel (not the end where the pull lies when the zip is fastened), hand-sew several stitches around the end of the zipper teeth as a zip bar. Any excess zipper tape can then be cut off; be careful and use domestic scissors when cutting through the teeth.

11. Measure the total width of the assembled zip panel. If the width exceeds 10cm trim equal amounts of each side to achieve the correct width. For example, if the total panel width is 12cm, trim 1cm off each side.

Form the D ring tabs

 

12. Fold each piece in half along the long edge wrong sides together and press.

13. Open the tabs back out and fold the short edges to the central crease and press.

14. Fold the tabs in half again with the raw edges tucked inside and press.

15. Top stitch 2mm from the edge along the 2 longest sides.

16. Lay the base panel outer piece over the zip panel. Fold a D ring tab in half and thread one of the D rings onto it so the straight edge of the D ring sits in the crease.

17. Position the D ring tab along the short edge of the base panel. Using the zip panel as a guide, position the tab so it sits to one side of the zipper teeth and clip in place on the base panel only.

18. Repeat steps 16 and 17 with the other D ring tab, positioning it at the other end of the base panel on the other side of the zipper teeth.

19. Sew the D ring tabs in place with a 1cm seam allowance. Backstitch over each one twice to create 4 lines of stitching.

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable upcycled denim bag tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Assemble the central panel

 

20. At each corner of the outer base panel on the wrong side, make a mark 1.5cm in from the long edge.

21. Align the pieces in the following order:

  • Base panel lining, right side up
  • Zip panel, right side up
  • Base panel outer, right side down

22. Line up the short edges at one end and clip them together.

23. Line up and clip the short edges at the other end together.

24. Sew along the short edges between the markings from step 20.

We have used a zipper with plastic chunky teeth (we love this look!) When sewing over the ends of this type of zip the fabric may need moving forward manually to create a longer stitch:

To do this – Sew to the side of the zipper teeth, raise the needle, lift the presser foot and move the fabric enough for the needle to enter the fabric on the other side of the zipper teeth. If you are using a zip with nylon coil teeth then you should be able to sew straight over the zip teeth.

Reverse this step to go back over the zipper then come forward again to give added strength.

Caution: trying to sew through zipper teeth can break sewing needles, which may result in injury.

25. Turn the base panel outer piece to the back forming the finished central panel. Then turn the whole central panel inside out so the lining fabric is around the outside

26. Assemble the bag: Undo the zip then take one outer side panel and fold it in half along the long edge to find the centre bottom.

27. Find the centre of the bottom panel by lining up the 2 side seams from step 24 and folding the outer bottom panel in half.

28. Line up the 2 centre bottom points and clip right sides together. Continue clipping the central panel around the side panel piece.

29. At the corners make 1cm cuts into the central panel edge for ease around the curves.

30. Sew all the way around the bag side panel. To sew alongside the joins in the central panel (step 24) cast off and switch to a zipper foot and sew avoiding the lining fabric. Then switch back to a standard presser foot to continue sewing round.

31. At the 4 curved corners, make V shaped cuts in the seam allowance at 1cm intervals. They should be 5mm wide then narrow to a point just before the seam line. Then trim the corner seam allowance down to approx. 5mm

32. Repeat steps 26 to 31 with a lining piece.

33. Turn the bag to access the other side of the central panel and repeat steps 26 to 32. When sewing the final lining piece leave a 10cm opening along the bottom edge for turning.

Finishing touches

 

34. Turn the bag out the right way and press the seams, avoid the zipper teeth as the heat may damage them.

35. Find the opening in the lining and clip the 2 sides together. Either machine sew the opening or hand sew with ladder stitch.

36. Clip the strap through the 2 D rings and the upcycled denim bag is complete!

We used:

 

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable upcycled denim bag tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

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15-Minute Upcycled Fabric Tray Tutorial

15-Minute Upcycled Fabric Tray Tutorial

by | Mar 15, 2021 | My Makes, Project Ideas, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

These cute little fabric trays are a great beginner project. They stitch up quickly and are a very handy cute little item to have dotted around your sewing room. Use them to catch threads or keep your little sewing notions tidy and easy to grab. Perfect as a quick gift, scrap buster and a short satisfying sew…

Aren’t they just the sweetest little things?

You will need:

  • An old pair of jeans

  • 1 FQ Quilting cotton

  • Heavy Iron-on Interfacing or a woven interfacing. Vliseline G700 is great for this

  • Temporary fabric marker

  • Thread

3/8″/ 1cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed otherwise.

Step 1:

Decide which sized tray you are going to make. Cut your fabrics as per the the table :

Cut the following based on the table above:

1 x square Denim Outer Fabrics

1 x square Inner quilting cotton

2 x squares Interfacing Squares

Step 2: Iron on interfacing squares to the reverse side of both the denim outer & the quilt cotton fabric inner.

Step 3: With RST pin the outer and inner fabrics together

Step 4: Sew round the edge leaving a turning gap of approx 3-5 inches (depending on which sized tray you are making)

Step 5: Trim the fabric on each corner diagonally to reduce bulk, taking care not to snip through your stitches

Step 6: Turn to the right side making sure your corners are crisp (Use a sturdy pin to dig out the excess fabric in the corners helps here)

Pro Tip: The tool pictured above are Needle Grippers and they are SO helpful for turning out projects

Step 7: Press & pin the turning gap closed.

Step 8: Top Stitch all the way around the edge using a 3mm stitch approximately 1/8″ from the fabric edge , closing the turning gap.

Step 9: On both sides of every corner make a mark with a temporary fabric marker the distance from the corner as listed in the table below

Step 9: Match up the 2 marks on each corner so the lining fabric is touching. Over stitch catching both sides of the tray. Repeat for all 4 corners.

Congratulations! You’re done!

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Canvas Gardening Apron Tutorial

Canvas Gardening Apron Tutorial

by | Feb 27, 2021 | Canvas, Project Ideas, Tutorials

Gardening can be a muddy business so let’s bring a splash of colour to the potting shed with this apron.

This sturdy companion, with a trio of generously sized pockets and easy release belt, will keep tools on hand and provide a safe space for harvested goodies.

We’ve also added some complementary accessories with wrist straps; they are the work of moments and a super handy for those most used tools.

Get comfortable sewing with canvas and learn how to sew mitred corners by making this project.

If you would like some tips on sewing canvas fabric then check out our Guide To Canvas Fabric over here

Skill Level: Confident Beginner Seam-Star

You Will Need:

For the apron:

Per wrist strap:

We Used:

Apron:

Wrist strap:

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Step 1: Cut your fabrics

Cut out the following using the measurements above:

1 apron piece

1 pocket piece*

For fabrics with a directional pattern, please note that the 29cm measurement will run top to bottom on the finished apron.

* For colour blocked pockets: cut 2 side pocket pieces 15.5x29cm and a middle pocket piece 26x29cm. Join using a 1cm seam allowance.

Add the Ribbon Detail

Step 1: Make marks on the central pocket piece 10cm and 15cm from the bottom right corner working along the bottom edge (26cm) and up the side (29cm).

Draw diagonal lines joining the 10cm and 15cm points

Pin the wider ribbon along the 15cm line and the narrower along the 10cm line.

Sew the ribbon in place then trim the ends so they align with the edge of the pocket piece.

Step 2: Assemble the pocket

Align one of the side pocket pieces with one side of the central pocket piece and pin.

Repeat with the other side pocket piece then sew them both with a 1cm seam allowance.

Tidy the seam allowance; zig zag stitch or overlocking are ideal.

Mitre the corners

The following steps apply to the bottom 2 corners (3 sides) of the apron piece and all 4 corners of the pocket piece:

Step 3: With the fabric facing wrong side up, turn over 2cm of fabric along each side and press.

Step 4: Fold the raw edges under to the crease and press forming a 1cm border.

Step 5: Starting at one corner open out the 2cm hem on both sides, keeping the 1cm creases folded.

Step 6: Fold over the corner, the creases will have formed a small square. Align the 2 sides of the small square with the two 2cm creases on the underside of the napkin.

Step 7: Finger press along the crease.

Step 8: Unfold the corner and mark out the fold line.

Step 9: Fold the corner in half bringing the 2 right sides together.

Step 10: Pin and sew along the marked line.

Step 11: Trim the seam allowance to 3mm and clip the end.

Step 12: Turn out the corner, use a turner to shape the point.

Step 13: On the apron, press then sew all the borders with a 1cm seam allowance, on the pocket only sew the top border.

Step 14: Sew the apron

Fold over to the back and press the top 1cm of fabric on the apron piece.

Step 15: Fold over another 4.5cm and press.

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Step 16: Sew a line of stitching along the bottom edge to form the belt casing.

Step 17: Add the pocket

On the pocket piece, press pairs of 1cm wide concertina folds 10cm from each short edge of the pocket piece.

Step 18: Fold the apron and pocket pieces in half and hand press along the creases.

Step 19: Measure and mark a line 4cm up from the bottom of the apron.

Step 20: Align the bottom of pocket piece with the 4cm line matching up the 2 central creases.

Step 21: Position and pin the concertina folds so the centre of them is 13.5cm from the outer edge of the apron.

Step 22: Sew 2 lines of stitching, 5mm apart, along the centre of the concertina folds.

Step 23: Position and pin the edge of the side pockets 3.5cm from the edge of the apron.

Step 24: Sew 2 lines of stitching,1cm apart, along the edge of the side pockets.

Step 25: Sew 2 lines of stitching, 1cm apart, along the bottom edge of the pocket piece. Ensuring the folds are sewn in place.

Step 26: Finishing touches

Thread the webbing through the belt casing by folding the webbing lengthways.

Step 27: Release the Delrin buckle and add a piece to each end of the webbing. Secure the female end with 2 lines of stitching.

Step 28: The wrist strap

Cut and seal a 40cm length of 25mm webbing.

Step 29: Align the 2 ends and fold the webbing in half.

Step 30: Insert the ends into the fob clasp and press with keyring pliers.

And tadaaah! All finished 🙂

Well done seam-star!

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

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