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11 Tips For Sewing With PVC Vinyl Fabric

11 Tips For Sewing With PVC Vinyl Fabric

Hands up if you knew we stock PVC vinyl… This fabric can be a little sticky to handle… Read on for our top tips on sewing with PVC Vinyl Fabric

PVC vinyl is such a versatile fabric with a variety of finishing options…

There’s often a little touch on a project where a transparent fabric could finish it off to perfection; Little ‘glass’ panes in windows, a clear tab to hold an ID tag, a bag you can glance the contents of, an apron that doesn’t hide your outfit… there are so many uses big and small.

So here you have it, a comprehensive guide to sewing with PVC vinyl.

11 tips for sewing clear vinyl


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Large Wash Bag Tutorial – FREE Pattern

Large Wash Bag Tutorial – FREE Pattern

Sometimes Dads are the trickiest to buy for aren’t they?

On this occasion we thought about going for something practical with that special touch that comes with being handmade. And as an item we all need from time to time, every use will be a little reminder of how much he means to you.

This roomy wash bag is perfect for all dad’s toiletries – it’s big enough for a 2 week holiday! It is 22cm x 17cm x 12cm and lined with waterproof PUL fabric we’ve also given the exterior some Odicoat layers maxing the water repelling properties of this bag. Perfect for splashing around in the shower or by the pool!

A Sewing Project For Adventurous Beginners

You Will Learn:

  • How to apply Odicoat
  • How to sew with PUL
  • How to insert a chunky zip
  • How to sew a boxed corner

You’ll Need:

Want a ready-to-use pattern? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the wash bag pattern.

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  • Here is our guide on how to sew PUL fabric
  • Here is our guide on how to apply Odicoat

Important Notes & Disclaimers:

  • 1.5cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed otherwise
  • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated
  • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice

Step 1 – Apply The Odicoat

Before cutting, in case of shrinkage, apply the Odicoat to the right side of the outer fabric: Place your fabric right side up on a covered surface (greaseproof paper or plastic sheeting are ideal).

 

Step 2

Print the pattern and cut it out.

IMPORTANT: Use the 1” test square to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check print settings. Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the ‘fit to page’ option.

The main pattern piece prints over 4 pages. Match the coloured circles up with their counterpart and sellotape together. Here’s a video explaining it should you not be familiar with putting together PDF patterns

Step 3 Cut your fabrics

Using the pattern pieces cut out the following transfering notches onto all pieces:

  • 2 x Outer fabric
  • 2 x Lining fabric
  • 2 x interfacing

Also:

  • 1 Strap from outer fabric
  • 2 Tabs from outer fabric

Step 4

Clip the sew in interfacing onto the wrong side of each outer piece.

Step 5

Baste the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric all the way round with a 5mm seam allowance.

Sew The Strap

Step 6

Fold the strap piece in half lengthways and press.

Step 7

Fold the raw edges to the crease and press again.

Step 8

Topstitch along the 2 long edges, 2mm from the edge.

Sew The Tabs

Step 9

Fold in 1cm along the long edges and press.

Step 10

Fold the tab in half so the short edges are aligned, raw edges inside and press.

Step 11

Topstitch around 3 sides 2mm from the edge, leaving the bottom edge open.

How To Sew A Chunky Zip

Step 12

Check the zip works. Fold the top 2 tape ends at 45 degree angles.

Sew a few stitches along the outer edge of the zip tape to hold them in place.

Step 13

With one outer piece right side up, align the zip with the top edge, right side down.

The zip bar positioned by the notch. Clip the zip in place.

Step 14

Baste close to the outer edge of the zipper tape, between the notches.

Step 15

Place a PUL lining piece smooth side down, lined up with the outer piece; sandwiching the zip between the two.

Clip along the top edge

Step 16

Using a zipper foot, sew between the notches with a 5mm seam allowance.

*If the PUL moves too much, hand baste before sewing or use a walking foot*

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Step 17

Open out the lining and outer pieces with the zip overlapping the lining, seam allowances underlapping the outer.

Top stitch between the notches on the outer fabric side (1.5cm from each end); Using a zipper foot sew along the outer fabric 2mm from the folded edge nearest the zip.

Step 18

Repeat steps 14. To 17. on the other side of the zip using the corresponding pieces.

Want a ready-to-use pattern? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the wash bag pattern.

Step 19

Open the zip halfway.

Open out the fabrics either side of the zip; aligning outer fabrics to one side and linings the other.

Clip the bottom edges together, leaving a 10cm turning gap in the lining fabric.

 

Step 20

Sew along the bottom edges, leaving the opening un-sewn.

Step 21

Press the seam allowance open on the outer fabric only.

Gently pull the outer and lining side panels outwards, allowing the bottom seams to line up with the zip then smooth/ flatten the fabric out either side.

Step 22

At each end of the zip, position a tab between the notches in the 2 layers of the outer fabric only.

Align the raw edges and clip in place, matching up the seam and zip ends, seam allowances open.

 

Step 23

Smooth the fabric out to either side of the tab and clip the raw edges of the outer fabric together.

Step 24

Sew along each side of the outer fabric only to secure the tab in place.

Backstitching over the tab for reinforcement and taking care near the zip ends.

*When sewing near the end of the zip/ across the teeth, the material may need moving forward manually to create a longer stitch: Sew to the side of the zipper teeth, raise the needle, lift the presser foot and move the fabric enough for the needle to enter the fabric on the other side of the zipper teeth. Reverse this step to go back over the zipper then come forward again to give added strength.*

Caution: trying to sew through the chunky zipper teeth can break the machine needle, which may result in injury

Step 25

Follow steps 22. to 24. for the lining fabric, disregarding the tab directions.

Move the outer fabric to one side but not the zip tape, to avoid gaps in the finished bag.

How To Box Out The Corners

Step 26

Starting at the top end of the outer fabric (where the zip pull sits when the bag is closed).

Make a mark where the fabric creases on the outermost edge.

Step 27

Open out the corner and align the seam with the mark.

Step 28

Thread the strap into the corner until only the end is visible.

Step 29

Position the end of the strap between the notches, raw edge aligned with the edges of the formed corner from step 36.

Clip the strap in position, then smooth out the fabric either side and clip.

Reach through the opening in the lining and open the zip fully.

Working through the opening, guide the other end of the strap to the adjacent corner at the top of the bag.

Step 30

Repeat steps 26. to 29. checking the strap isn’t twisted.

Step 31

Repeat steps 26. to 29. on the remaining 2 corners in the outer fabric and the 4 in the lining fabric, disregarding the strap directions.

Step 32

Sew along the corners.

Step 33

Turn the bag out the right way.

Step 34

Sew the gap in the lining closed.

 

And you’re finished, well done!

Want a ready-to-use pattern? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the wash bag pattern.

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We hope you found this tutorial useful! Let us know how you get along in the comments below.

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Tutorial: Sew An A5 Notebook Cover In 30 Minutes

Tutorial: Sew An A5 Notebook Cover In 30 Minutes

Sew an A5 notebook cover in 30 minutes. Learn how to do it in this step-by-step tutorial.

There is something so appealing about new stationery; even in an ever increasingly digital age, the perfect notebook still holds its own.

With this in mind we thought a makeover was in order; a cover will level up an already essential item for a lucky recipient.

A Sewing Project For Beginners

You Will Learn:

  • How to draft a fabric book covering
  • How to use Decovil

You Will Need:

Note: this should be enough to cover most A5 notebooks, if in doubt, draft the pattern 1st to check the size.

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How To Draft A Notebook Cover Pattern

1. Cut a length of paper, greaseproof is ideal, large enough to wrap around the cover of the book and fold in either side of the cover to the halfway point (like a book’s dust cover).

Close the book to check sizing before cutting; the cover of the closed book spans a greater distance than when it is open.

The paper needs to be at least 4cm taller than the notebook too.

2. Open out the paper and draw a line 2cm up from the bottom edge.

3. Fold the paper in half bringing the 2 short sides together to find the centre point.

4. Place the spine of the book along the central fold and wrap the paper round the cover.

5. Line up the bottom edge of the notebook along the drawn line.

6. Mark a line on the paper along the top edge of the book and down the 2 edges of the cover.

7. Open the paper out and draw a line 2cm above the marked line at the top.

8. Check the pattern has right angled corners and straighten up any uneven lines, cut it out and label it “Cover”.

9. Measure the total height of the pattern and write it on the pattern (for example, 25cm).

10. Cover the pattern with a second piece of paper and trace out the large rectangle that has formed in the centre, label it “Decovil” and cut it out.

Cut The Fabrics:

11. Cut the following:

  • 1 x outer cover fabric using your “Cover” pattern
  • 1 x lining cover fabric using your “Cover” pattern
  • 1 5x8cm fabric pen tab from your outer fabric
  • 1 x Decovil using your “Decovil” pattern
  • 1 length pattern height elastic (step 9.)
  • 6cm elastic pen loop

How To Apply Decovil

12. Spread a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over an ironing board.

13. Place the outer fabric right side down.

14. Using the markings on the cover pattern piece, position the Decovil shiny side down.

15. Lay a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over the top.

16. Dampen the cover fabric using the iron’s spray setting and press for roughly 6 seconds, heat setting 2.

17. Allow the adhesive to cool and cure for a minimum of 30 minutes.

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Assemble The Pen Tab

18. Fold in 1cm along the long edges of the pen tab and press.

19. Fold and press 1cm of fabric along the short edges and press.

20. Fold the tab in half, encasing the raw edges and press.

21. Fold the elastic pen loop in half and tuck 1cm of the raw edges into the pen tab. Pin to secure.

22. Turn the outer cover right side up and where the design on your fabric is directional ensure it is right way up.

23.  Find the line where the Decovil stops on the right and make a mark in the centre of that line.

24. Position the pen tab at that mark, with the tab to the right and the elastic loop overlapping the Decovil to the left.

25. Sew around the 4 sides of the pen tab, tight to the edge to secure.

 

Position The Bookmark

26. On the left hand side of the outer cover, place the bookmark elastic in parallel, 3cm to the left of the line where the Decovil stops and pin

Assemble The Notebook Cover

27. Align the outer and lining fabrics right sides together.

28. Pin and sew the short edges together only.

Form The Flap Pleats

29. Find the edge of the Decovil on each side, then fold over and press the overhanging fabric.

30. On both sides press the fabric along the seam line to concertina back towards the edge of the Decovil.

31. On both sides fold and press the lining fabric in line with the edge of the Decovil, forming the flaps for the cover.

32. Pin and sew along the top and bottom edges of the cover, leaving a 10cm opening in the bottom edge.

33. Turn the cover out the right way, ensuring the flaps overlap the lining.

34. Hand or machine sew the opening closed.

35. To insert the notebook, Open the cover on one side and insert it under the corresponding flap. Repeat on the other side.

And you’re finished, well done!

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We hope you found this tutorial useful! Let us know how you get along in the comments below.

What is Vlieseline Decovil Interlining?

What is Vlieseline Decovil Interlining?

Have you heard of Vlieseline Decovil? Wondering what this interlining can be used for? Our product guide will explain what Decovil Interlining is, how to apply it, and what projects it’s best suited for.

Vlieseline have a HUGE range of interlinings & interfacings that can add structure to your projects (you can explore the full range of Vlieseline products in our online haberdashery here) .

Say hello to Vlieseline Decovil!

Decovil is part of the Vlieseline Creative Range and it’s an interlining which adds amazing structure & strength to projects, whilst keeping your project light, pliable & crisp.

It feels like leather to the touch, but it has the added bonus that it’s easier to sew than leather – happy days!

Decovil Interlining

One side of Decovil is shiny and the other side is matt. The shiny side is adhesive and can be adhered onto fabric using an iron & a damp cloth – this is super handy so you don’t have to sew in the Decovil to your fabric.

Decovil is available in 2 weight options

Decovil I is the “original” Decovil interfacing- it’s thicker and heavier. Great for things like bag bottoms, storage boxes, zipper pouches etc…

Decovil Light, as the name suggests, is a lighter weight & thinner version of the original Decovil. It’s also softer.

Which to choose? Depending on your project and desired outcome but if, for example, you were making a bag you might choose to use Decovil I for the main body of your bag but for the bag handles choose Decovil I Light because you have a lot of layers to sew through.

Check out this little video which will hopefully give you an idea about how Decovil handles and moves

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The Benefits of Decovil Interlining

We’re a little bit in love with Decovil here at Plush Addict! Here’s some reasons why

 

  • It’s resistant to tearing and bending
  • Decovil gives structure
  • Gives a smooth, sleek finish
  • It’s Easy to shape
  • Decovil doesn’t crease easily – and if it does, it’s easy to restore
  • Helps reduce fraying
  • Adds durability to your project
  • Decovil can be pierced
  • It sews easily
  • Has a fusible coating on one side
  • It’s washable at 30 degrees

Check out our The Ultimate Vlieseline At-A-Glance Guide for more info on Vliseline’s Interfacings

When To Use Decovil

Decovil is really versatile but to give you an idea, you can use it in projects such as  

  • Placemats
  • Bags
  • Belts
  • Book & Notebook Covers
  • Zipper Pouches
  • Hats
  • Interior decorations
  • Small baskets

Decovil also makes a great alternative to wadding if you’re making placemats and gives a smooth and sleek look to the finished item. Check out our video:

Check out the suggestions on the Vlieseline site below for some free projects using Decovil

How to apply Decovil

 

It’s a cinch! Applying Decovil will be familiar – it’s very similar to applying other types of interlining and interfacing: 

 

  1. Spread a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over an ironing board
  2. Place your outer fabric  right side down
  3. Position the Decovil shiny side down so it is on top of the wrong side of your fabric
  4. Cover with a damp cloth and press for roughly 6 seconds
  5. Allow the adhesive to cool and cure for a minimum of 30 minutes to allow the adhesive to stick properly

Grab a cheeky 10% discount on your next Decovil purchase with DECOVIL10One time use per customer.

Projects Ideas Using Decovil

Check out our Free notebook project which uses Decovil here

The Vlieseline Blog has some fab & FREE tutorials using the Decovil range.

Have a nosy at:

On The Go Multi Bag free project using Decovil from Vlieseline

Slippers free project using Decovil from Vlieseline

A Doll’s House free project using Decovil from Vlieseline

Clam Shell Wedding Favours free project using Decovil from Vlieseline

Other Useful Info About Vlieseline Decovil

If you’re not planning on laundering your project,  Decovil can be painted! Use watered down acrylic paint and be sure to paint on the matt side

Decovil can also be painted using fabric dye on the adhesive (shiny) side. Watch out here though –  the nature of the fibres may well cause dye to spread from the point where it is applied. Make sure you test before hand… 

Want to try Decovil for the first time?

Grab a cheeky 10% discount on your next Decovil purchase with DECOVIL10. One time use per customer.

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A Guide To Fat Quarters

A Guide To Fat Quarters

So you see a new fabric collection and you’re like…

I LOVE IT

…but how much of it do I need? Can I afford them all? I can’t possibly choose!

Oh yeah, we totally get you.

This is why we offer fat quarter bundles so you can love it, make it & keep it!

Watch our video then check out the written guide below for the full fat-quarter lowdown!

What is a fat quarter?

You might have seen FQ on a tutorial and you’re like… what?!

FQ stands for fat quarter, which is a piece of pre-cut fabric that is made by cutting half a metre of the full fabric width from the bolt and then cut in half vertically, hence ‘quarters’. Most quilting fabrics are 44”/110cm wide, which makes fat quarters around 50cm x 55cm.

Are all fat quarters the same? 

Due to the term ‘fat quarter’ being all about the width, you may find some are different. This especially applies to American fat quarters, as they cut by the yard, which means you’ll find American fat quarters are a little shorter at around 56cm x 46cm. 

What size is a fat quarter?

The term ‘fat’ quarter refers to how it’s cut. Technically it is a quarter of a metre, however if you asked for a quarter of a metre at a fabric shop, they would probably cut as a strip (known as a long quarter) like this:

A fat quarter cut is a square shape which means you’re getting more scope to make wider things out of it, even though it’s technically the same surface area. 

You may find that some fabrics have a wider width, such as our PUL and Bamboo Velour. We sell this by the fat quarter, however the width can be up to 150cm, so you would get a very generous amount of fabric!

 

What projects can I make with fat quarters?

A fat quarter is definitely small but mighty in the sewing world. There are tons of projects you can make! Not only are they great for quilters and those applique fans out there you could also make cushions, tote bags, pencil cases, tablet covers, baskets, bibs and so much more.

We have lots of tutorials on our blog which you could make with fat quarters including:

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Where can I buy fat quarters?

Right here at Plush Addict! We sell quilting collections in fat quarter bundles and you can buy any of our fabrics as a fat quarter, as they are cut bespoke for you when you order. We even have a colour matching service, just pop in the order notes which fabrics you’d like us to colour match and we’ll check for you.

 

Did you learn a lot from this blog? We’d love to hear from you in the comments!

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DIY Happy Birthday Bunting Tutorial: Free Templates Included

DIY Happy Birthday Bunting Tutorial: Free Templates Included

Welcome to this helpful guide to crafting your very own reusable birthday bunting!

Included in this tutorial are free downloadable templates for the bunting flag and the ‘Happy Birthday’ letters, making it even easier to create your personalised decoration.

Celebrate sustainably with a handmade decoration that’s not only eco-friendly but also adds a personal touch to your special day. This project is perfect for beginners and will help you master essential sewing techniques while creating something delightful for your home.

Handmade bunting can be washed and used time and time again and make those special memories for you and your family.

Sewing Skills for Making Reusable Birthday Bunting

You will learn

  • How to use Bondaweb.
  • Appliqué techniques.
  • Sewing bunting.
  • Turning and finishing points.

Materials for Sewing Birthday Bunting Flags

**A note on fabric quantities: Enough fabric is needed to cut 26 triangles depending on your fabric choices and colour combinations you may find you require different amounts. **

1 fat quarter yields 8 or 10 triangles, depending on cutting accuracy. See below for the fabrics & quantities we used to create each look.

What is Bondaweb And Why Use It?

Bondaweb is a brilliantly versatile fabric glue; think of it as a sheet of double sided sticky tape that can adhere 2 fabrics together.

There are many benefits to using Bondaweb:

  • Until heat is applied bondaweb is not sticky
  • Once used it can be washed at up to 60 degrees or dry cleaned
  • Bondaweb is perfect for appliqué, but check out our pinwheel project here for an alternative project idea.
  • Makes it easier to cut appliqué designs accurately
  • It gives appliqué shapes stability, making them easier to sew in place
  • The backing paper can be drawn on in pencil and is translucent enough for tracing, making it easier to pan out designs

Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing Birthday Bunting

 

Step 1: Prepare Your Bunting Flags

  • Print and cut out the triangle template. Ensure your printer is set to 100% (not “Fit to Page”) and check the sizing using the 1” test square.
  • Trace and cut 26 triangles from your fabric using the template. For precise cutting, a rotary cutter and mat are helpful.

Step 2: Adding ‘Happy Birthday’ Letters with Bondaweb

Once you’re cut all of your flags using the template it’s now time to appliqué on the “HAPPY BIRTHDAY” letters:

Trace “HAPPY BIRTHDAY” letters onto the smooth side of the Bondaweb.

Pro Tip: If your fabric has a definite right and wrong side, trace the letters in reverse.

Roughly cut around each letter on the Bondaweb, then iron the Bondaweb onto the wrong side of your lettering fabric. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for heat settings.

Once cooled, cut out each letter accurately and peel off the backing paper.

Position each letter onto a triangle, aligning it 3cm from the top edge. Iron into place using a damp tea towel for protection.

Seam-Star Top Tip: use an Olfa knife & a craft mat for an easier cut around the inside of the letters.

5. Spread a smooth surfaced tea towel or spare length of cotton fabric over an ironing board.

6. Lay the Bondaweb lettering fabric wrong side up on the ironing board.

7. Place the Bondaweb letters on top of your lettering fabric rough side down, following the fabric grain.

8. Lay a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over the top and press each letter for roughly 5 seconds, heat setting 2, no steam.

Then wait at least 30 minutes for the Bondaweb to cool and the glue to set.

9. Cut out each letter accurately, cutting small details is easier with fine scissors or a small rotary cutter and cutting mat.

10. One at a time peel the backing paper off each letter and position it centrally on the corresponding triangle, 3cm from the top edge.

11.  Place the triangle and letter right side up on the covered ironing board. Lay a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over the top.

12. Dampen the cover fabric using the iron’s spray setting and press over each letter for roughly 10 seconds, heat setting 3.

Allow at least 30 minutes for the Bondaweb to cool and the glue to set.

13. Sew around the edge of each letter and around any cut out elements (for example the centre of the D), 2mm from the edge.

Hand sewn blanket stitch or machine zig zag stitch overlapping the edge of the letter and the surrounding fabric can also be used (length 0.5 to 1, width 3 to 4 depending on the finish required).

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Sew The Bunting Flags

14. Pin and sew 2 corresponding triangles right sides together, leaving the top edge open.

Want a ready-to-use template? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the Happy Birthday bunting templates & letters.

How To Turn The Point

15. Clip the seam allowance at the point in a straight line across the top, close to, but not through, the sewn seam.

16. Fold in and press the seam allowance along one long edge, then repeat on the other side, overlapping the seam allowance near the tip.

Clip any overhanging seam allowance.

17. Turn the flag out the right way, using a pointed object to help shape the tip.

18. Clip any protruding seam allowance from the top of the flag and press.

19. Clip any protruding seam allowance from the top of the flag and press.

20. Fold the bias binding tape in half and press.

21. Measure 50cm from the end of the tape and position the first flag between the 2 layers of bias tape, the top of the flag meeting the fold line.

Clip or pin the flag in place with the letter facing forwards.

22. Position the second flag 2cm along from the first and clip, checking that the letter faces forwards.

23. Continue clipping all the flags on place leaving a 50cm tail of bias binding at the end.

24. Prepare the tape ends by pressing 1cm of tape inward to encase the raw edges and clip or pin in place.

25. Repeat steps 20. to 23. for the second line of bunting.

26. Starting at one end of the bias binding sew the 2 edges together and continue all the way along, sewing each flag in place and stopping at the other end of the bias tape.

And you’re finished, well done!

Want a ready-to-use template? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the Happy Birthday bunting template.

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