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How To: Make Reusable Makeup Remover Pads and Waterproof Bag

How To: Make Reusable Makeup Remover Pads and Waterproof Bag

Help save the planet with 2 FREE tutorials! Read on for a Reusable Makeup Remover Pads sewing tutorial, and a waterproof bag to store them in until laundry day!

Did you know face wipes contain plastic and make up more than 90% of sewer blockages in the UK? They also end up in our oceans, which causes problems for our marine environment and sea creatures. Do you use cotton pads instead when removing makeup? Single use cotton pads are found to be non-biodegradable too. 

Beauty experts say a reusable cloth can be less abrasive on the skin and is less likely to cause irritation to more sensitive skin types and around the eye area, ideal for waterproof mascara. A reusable alternative is sustainable and great for your skin!

Also lets not forget the cost, 50 disposable cotton pads can cost around £3-4, if you bought one for each day of the year you’d need around 8 packs, so you’d spend £32 a year.

So, let’s ditch the baby wipes and cotton wool pads! One very easy swap to make is to replace cotton pads for a reusable & washable alternative. Reusable makeup remover pads are a really quick & easy sew, also a great scrap buster. 

We highly recommend using a bamboo fabric to back your reusable cotton pads in. The best choices are bamboo towelling and bamboo velour. We recently shared a fabric guide of bamboo fabrics here on the blog. 

How To Make Reusable Makeup Remover Pads

 

You will need..

Cotton fabric – quantity depends on how many you wish to make. You will need 4½ ” square for each makeup pad

Bamboo velour or bamboo towelling – 4½” square is required per pad. We have used (and prefer) bamboo velour for this project as it’s so soft against the face

Thread

Pins

We used the gorgeous Woodland Songbirds fabrics.

Important Notes About Your Bamboo Fabric

 

Pre-Wash all of your fabrics and dry them as they will be laundered. Don’t skip this step! This is really important for bamboo velour as, like many stretch fabrics, the velour is likely to shrink a little

It is also advisable not to use fabric conditioner when laundering bamboo velour as it can affect its absorbency ofter a while.

Looking for more info on bamboo fabric? Check out our full guide here

Prepare & cut your fabrics.

For each pad you require

  1. Take 1 square of bamboo and one square of cotton and place RST and pin

2. Sew around all 4 sides with a 1.5cm seam allowance leaving a small turning gap of 1-2”  *Pro Tip to help with your turning gap later on – When starting off your sewing place the needle in your fabrics 1cm from the raw edge and then pivot your fabric. This makes sewing up the turning hole easier.

3. Clip the corners on the diagonal and clip the main seams to ¼” – leaving the turning gap with 1.5cm seam allowance

4. Turn through the gap you’ve left and poke out the corners to a sharp point.

5. Press and then top stitch a scant ¼” from the edge with a 3mm stitch length, making sure you close up the turning hole.

…and you’re done!

Would you love to make a pouch for them to go in? Let’s make a double pocket waterproof dry bag!

We thought we would share this tutorial to make a waterproof dry zip pouch with two pockets, one which is waterproof, to keep your clean and used make up pads apart. When you’re ready to wash your reusable makeup pads, simply open the zip and put the whole thing into the washing machine.

You’ll need some waterproof fabric for this make, we recommend PUL fabric but check out our Waterproof Fabrics Guide here for more information.

How To Make A Double Pocket Waterproof Dry Bag

 

You Will Need…

2 pieces PUL Fabric 10.5″ x 7.5″

2 x cotton fabric for outer 10.5″ x 7.5″

2 x cotton fabric for pocket 10.5″ x 7″

1 x 10″ closed ended zip

Co-ordinating thread

All supplies can be found on our website.

To match our previous make, we used the Nutex Woodland Songbirds fabrics.

  1. Cut out your fabrics – sizes are above
  1. Sew the 2 pocket pieces together (RST) with 1cm seam allowance
  1. Press this seam open and then fold over so that approximately 1cm of the pocket lining is visible on the outside, making a contrasting band.
  1. Trim the excess fabric at the bottom to make the pieces the same size.
  2. Top stitch along the seam line.
  3. Sandwich your fabrics in the following order:
  • PUL Lining (Shiny side up)
  • Zip (Teeth facing up)
  • Outer cotton piece (Right side facing down)

Pin or clip all of the layers in place.

  1. Sew the 3 layers together using a zipper foot
  2. Finger press the fabrics & then top stitch close to the seam
  3. Repeat steps 6 and 7 for the other side
  4. Lay the outer pocket on to the outer of the bag & baste in place

TOP TIP: Open the zip pull half way so you can turn!

 

  1. Line up the two lining pieces & the two outer pieces and stitch all the way around leaving a 3-4” turning gap in the PUL lining.

12. Trim the corners & turn right side out. 

13. Stitch up the hole in the lining fabric.

14. Turn to the right side, poke out the corners and press.

Yay you’re finished!

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Make An Easy Reading Cushion Tutorial

Make An Easy Reading Cushion Tutorial

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Need an easy reading cushion tutorial?

I don’t know about you, but when I think of reading a book I want to snuggle up somewhere cosy & lose myself among the pages.

This reading cushion tutorial allows you make a cushion that brings all the best things together; a cushion for cosiness, a safe spot for your book & an extra space for a torch, cuddly toy or reading glasses.

The handle makes it easy to escape to your favourite spot. And there is no risk of corner folding savagery… there’s a bookmark too!

Skill level: Adventurous beginner

You will need

We used the following in this reading cushion tutorial:

 

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Important notes for this reading cushion tutorial

 

1 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.

Pre-wash your fabrics

Disclaimer – Strangulation hazard, children must be supervised when using the book pocket cushion.

Cut the fabrics

1. Cut pieces in both fabric & interlining using the measurements above

For the cushion:

  • 1 Cushion front
  • 1 Cushion back

For the bookmark:

  • 2 Bookmark pieces: Choose 2 17.5x6cm panels – cut adding a 5mm border to all sides

For the pocket: *Note the interfacing is cut separately as 1 panel

  • 2 Pocket sides: Choose 2 17.5x25cm panels – cut adding a 1cm border top and bottom and a 5mm border on both sides
  • 1 Pocket centre: Choose 1 8x25cm panel – cut adding a 1cm border at the top and bottom and 5mm border on both sides
  • Pocket Interlining: 45x27cm

Prepare the fabric

2. Apply the fusible interfacing to the cushion front and back

New to woven interfacing? Check out our how to product guide here

Assemble the reading cushion back panel

3. Measure and mark a line 11cm from the shortest edge of the back piece.

4. Cut along the line to form the zip opening.

5. Tidy the 2 raw edges of the zip opening using an overlocker or zig zag stitch.

6. Clip or pin the 2 sides of the zip opening right sides together.

7. Baste along the opening with a 1cm seam allowance.

8. Press the seam open.

Prepare the zip

9. Seal the ends of the tape gently, taking care not to damage the zipper teeth.

Want to know your #5 from your #3 zip? Check out our Zip Type Guide

10. Pull the bottom 10cm of the zipper teeth apart.

11. With the back of the zip pull and back of the tape facing upwards thread 1 end of the tape into the zipper from the top. To make this easier angle the teeth into the pull from the side.

12. Repeat step 4. on the other side. Both sets of teeth should sit toward the top of the clasp.

13. Keeping the 2 sides of teeth level with each other, hold the zip pull between one finger/ thumb then draw the 2 sides of the tape down through the pull with the other hand. The zip pull should then begin to move up the tape.

14. Slide the pull toward the top of the tape (without coming off the other end) then pull it back down to check the zip works.

Top tip:

A fork can help hold the zip pull: tuck the bar of the zip between the central teeth (not the clasp where the teeth need to go). A blob of blue-tack can help keep the fork still.

Sew the zip

15. On the cushion back panel with the zip fastened, align the zipper teeth along the basted seam line. Position the zip, pull side down, end aligned with one edge, pull and excess tape overhanging at the other.

16. Tape or baste the zip in place.

17. Starting at the end nearest the zip pull, begin sewing using a zipper foot. Backstitch at the start then sew down to the bottom of the zip.

18. Stop sewing 5mm from the bottom. Turn and sew across the bottom carefully, backstitching for added strength.

19. Turn and sew along the other side of the zip teeth to the top and backstitch.

20. Remove the tape/ zip basting stitches.

21. Turn the cushion back over and unpick the basting stitches using a seam ripper. Remove all loose threads (a lint roller can help with this) then test the zip.

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Assemble the pocket

22. One at a time, align the edge of a pocket side panel piece with the corresponding edge on pocket centre piece and pin.

23. Sew the pieces together with a 5mm seam allowance then press the seams open.

24. Apply the interlining to the back of the pocket piece.

25. Hem the top of the pocket by folding over and pressing the top 1cm of the panel.

26. Turn the raw edge under to reach the crease and press again to create a hem.

27. Clip and sew along the edge of the pressed hem to secure.

28. Align the bottom of the pocket piece with the bottom of the cushion front.

29. Pin along the seam line that runs between the right and centre pocket panels

30. Sew along the seam line. Backstitch twice at the top of the pocket for strength.

Position the strap

31. Fold the back cushion piece in half and finger press a crease in the centre of the top edge.

32. Position each end of the webbing 7.5cm from the crease and pin with the strap ends and fabric edge aligned.

Assemble the cushion

33. Lay the pieces out in the following order:

  • Cushion front and pocket – right side up
  • Cushion back – right side down with the strap ends to the top (strap tucked down between the layers)

34. Vertically pin the opening end of the zip then unzip it by 10cm.

35. Clip or pin the 4 sides of the cushion together.

36. Sew the easy reading cushion front and back together. Carefully backstitch at each end of the zipper tape, the strap ends and the tops of the pocket for strength.

37. Clip the corners, cut off the excess zip tape (using domestic scissors for the teeth) and turn the cushion out the right way.

38. For a polished finish, press the completed cushion cover.

Make the bookmark

39. Pin the 2 bookmark pieces right sides together.

40. Leaving a 5cm opening, sew around the bookmark with a 5mm seam allowance.

41. Clip the corners and turn out the right way.

42. Press the bookmark

43. Sew 2 lines of top stitching around the bookmark; the first close to the outer edge and the second 5mm in from the 1st

And you’re finished, well done!

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We hope you found this easy reading cushion tutorial useful.

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

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15 Minute Napkin With Mitered Corners

15 Minute Napkin With Mitered Corners

Here’s how to make a 15 minute napkin with mitered corners. We’re continuing out theme of helping you create a more sustainable Christmas… Fabric napkins are a fabulous step into sustainability & will make your Christmas table look amazing!

With some clever folding, a coordinating runner & some homemade Christmas crackers you will create an incredible focal point for your Christmas feast.

Follow this tutorial & learn how to stitch a mitred corner in just 15 minutes!

And if you just wanna learn how to fold your napkins in to some fancy Christmas trees then scoot down to the bottom of the tutorial for the lowdown…

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

We have also published a tutorial on how to make Reusable Christmas Crackers – check that out here

Want a printable copy of this tutorial? No problem! Request it below & a copy will be sent direct to your in-box

Reusable Christmas Napkin Tutorial

 

Skill Level: Beginner

 

To make ONE reusable napkin you will need:

1 x 49cm square of quilting cotton (we used fabrics from the Makower Joy collection)

Co-ordinating thread

 

Important notes:

1.5 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, always backstitch at the start & end unless otherwise stated.

Pre-wash your fabrics

 

1. Cut your fabric

 

Cut out a 49cm square of your chosen fabric

Cut out a 49cm square of your chosen fabric

2. Press the edges

With the fabric facing wrong side up, turn over 2cm of fabric along each side & press.

Fold the raw edges under to the crease & press again forming a 1cm border around the napkin.

 

With the fabric facing wrong side up, turn over 2cm of fabric along each side & press.

Fold the raw edges under to the crease & press again forming a 1cm border around the napkin.

3. Mitre The Corners

 

 

 

 

Starting at one corner, open out the 2cm hem on both sides.

 

 

 

Fold over the corner, the creases will have formed a small square. Align the 2 sides of the small square with the two 2cm creases on the underside of the napkin. Finger press along the fold.

Unfold the corner and mark out the fold line

 

 

Fold the corner in half bringing the 2 right sides together.

Pin and sew along the marked line.

Trim the seam allowance to 3mm and clip the end.

Turn out the corner, use a turner to shape the point

4. Repeat

 

 

Repeat steps 3 and 4 on the other corners

Press then sew the border of the napkin with a 1cm seam allowance.

And your napkin is finished!

Want a printable copy of this tutorial? No problem! Request it below & a copy will be sent direct to your in-box

Learn The Christmas Tree Napkin Fold

 

Why not get extra creative with your table setting and check out some napkin folding tutorials.

Fold the napkin into quarters

Fold the napkin into quarters

 

 

 

 

Fold up 1 corner of fabric at a time each one lying 2cm below the previous

Turn the whole thing over

 

 

 

Fold the left most corner up to the right pivoting at bottom centre.

Repeat with the right.

Turn the whole thing over

 

 

 

 

Rotate the napkin

Fold under one corner at a time to form tiers

Lift up the top layer and form a cone shape

Stand up the tree and you’re done!

Want a printable copy of this tutorial? No problem! Request it below & a copy will be sent direct to your in-box

We hope you enjoyed that tutorial and have fun making it. If you make your own version please tag us @PlushAddict #PAReusableNapkin

We would love to see your creations!

A Toddler Duvet Cover

A Toddler Duvet Cover

I’m not alone that many of my sewing makes end up being dictated around my family and their needs and desires, well ok – mostly Baby Plush and the things she needs (I really should stop calling her Baby Plush as she’s almost three now, I’ll have to think of another descriptive, but anonymous name for her soon). All of a sudden she seemed to have outgrown her sleeping bag overnight and was was about to burst out of the bottom of it. I was prepared for such a day with a duvet and pillow, but hadn’t managed to get a duvet cover and I decided I needed one quick smart! I was going to buy a shop bought one as I needed it so quickly but after scouring the possibilities of shop bought versions I just couldn’t find anything that was nice and would go in her non-pink room, or that wasn’t a polycotton when I really wanted 100% cotton. So time against me, I decided to run over to the warehouse one Sunday afternoon and get some fabric and knocked this up. It was super easy and gave me an excuse to use Gnomeville again which has to be one of my all time favourite fabrics.

Gnomeville from Michael Miller – just look at those cute little fellas!

If you are thinking of making one of these you’ll need to do a bit of easy piecing because 110cm width isn’t enough fabric (in this case you need extra on the “height” as Gnomeville is a border print).  I used Michael Miller’s Red Quarter Dot which matches the dots on Gnomeville exactly and there was enough Quarter Dot fabric left over to make the pillow case.  I used this extra wide backing fabric from Wilmington for the reverse so I didn’t have to have a join on the back. You could use buttons to fasten it but if you’re lazy like me KAM snaps  are the way forward. The size 16s are perfect for duvets as they keep snapped but aren’t too hard to undo when you’re in a hurry on laundry day.

Size 16 KAM snaps in action

Of course there’s a wash one, wear one scenario with bedding so I had to make two in the end. For the second one I decided to use one of the Riley Blake Extra Wide fabrics. These puppies are a whopping 274cm wide are used for backing quilts  but I used 1.25m (the duvet is 150cm x 120cm), folded over the top and pieced a bit of quilt cotton at the lower border and used the remainder of the contrast print as the pillow case so this one is just two pieces of fabric – easy peasy! Alas we don’t have this ladybird fabric anymore but if you want to hunt it out it’s a Robert Kaufman Picnic Party  print. 

Unfortunately she seems to almost be growing out of the cot bed all of a sudden so we’ll be upgrading to her first proper bed soon enough (where is the time going?!) I doubt I’ll get away with something non-pink and non princessy for the next redecoration. Why is it that little girls love pink so much? She certainly didn’t get it from me. Have you made any of your own bedding? Is it something you’d consider?