A Guide To Plush (A Guide To Minky Fabric)

by Kellie Rose | Dec 28, 2014 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Minky Fabric, My Makes

I wrote this article a few months ago and was originally published in the September issue of Sewing World Magazine but I’m sharing it here for those that missed the publication at the time (did you know that Sewing World Magazine have been around for over 20 years? Impressive!) Super proud that this was the first in a series of fabric guides I wrote for them, which I thoroughly enjoyed (#ExcitedMuch). I hope you find it helpful and feel free to ask any questions, I’ll surely do my best to answer them.

Plush : A Fabric Guide

The name of my shop “Plush Addict” has to be testament to how much I love this kind of fabric. Once you’ve stroked it I promise you will feel the same! If you’re not familiar with it you’re in for a treat as plush fabric is a buttery soft, fluffy fabric with a short pile and is incredibly tactile. The divine softness of the fabric lends itself very well to children’s makes such as soft toys and baby blankets but it can be used in a plethora of other places such as clothes and home furnishings. You might have heard it called “minky” before now, but in the UK it’s no longer possible for the fabric to be sold under that name because of a trademark issue and it’s becoming better known as plush or cuddle fabric [see this post for further information about minky fabric name change.]

The popularity of plush fabric has been growing over the past few years; this is evident as more of the larger fabric brands are bringing out collections. From Timeless Treasures we have “Softie”, from Riley Blake we had “Dreamy”, Michael Miller recently introduced “Cozy”, don’t the names sound inviting? They remind me of snuggling under a blanket on the sofa sipping a hot chocolate, and that’s exactly the feeling that plush fabric gives you – a little bit of “Mmmm, lovely!” It’s fantastic that some of the big brands are waking up to the wonder of plush and providing more choice, however the unrivalled King of the Cuddle has to be Shannon Fabrics. They have a mind-boggling selection of plush fabrics available and I’m very proud to stock a huge selection of the Shannon range. Shannon plush really is the premium version of this fabric and the quality is unrivalled. It has a gorgeous sheen and the hand is quite exquisite.

The most popular types of plush are smooth and dimple (or bubble) and we carry all of Shannon’s amazing 85 colours so you’re sure to find the perfect colour to suit your taste and project. There is also a huge choice of patterned plush from chevrons to florals to charming children’s prints.

There is a textured range of plush which include burn out prints such as chevrons, stripes and florals, a delightful rose swirl which is very popular for blankets as it has a deep, cosy pile. There’s even a fabric called shaggy which has a 25mm pile and makes amazing monsters, see the fabulous monster rucksack we made in this fabric!

Composition and Handling

The fabric itself is polyester so it’s a dream to launder and doesn’t require any pressing. It has a right and a wrong side, the short, fluffy directional pile is the right side and there’s a smooth knit on the wrong wide and it has a cross grain stretch. The pile on these fabrics means once cut there will be some shedding, but once that’s shaken away the edges won’t fray and edges can be left unfinished without the worry of any unraveling. The pile and the stretch can prove tricky under the needle but with the right management there isn’t any reason why a beginner sewist can’t be successful.

Top Tips For Sewing With Plush

If left to it’s own devices plush can slip and slide on your machine giving you an unsightly finish so it needs a bit of special handling. If you follow these simple tips you are lining yourself up for success and it really is so scrumptious it’s worth the effort! My top tips are:

Pin, pin and pin some more – I find that either pinning on a diagonal or horizontally to the edge helps to stabilise the fabric, I place pins about every 1cm. Wonderclips are also a fantastic gadget to invest in for sewing plush and keeping it in check.
Use a longer stitch length – I find a length of 3 to 3.5 works very well, longer for the deeper pile fabrics such as shaggy.
Use a walking foot – this will help feed the top and bottom fabrics through your machine evenly at the same speed. A walking foot will give you the best results but if you don’t have one you can reduce the pressure on your presser foot, pin lots and sew slowly.
Keep the grain lines the same – this will help combat any issues encountered with the pile and stretch
Use a ball point needle – I find a 90/14 ballpoint needle works well

Embroidering on plush fabrics

Machine embroidery is getting more popular and embroidery on plush fabrics and looks wonderful. You can embroider soft toy faces or add a commemorative message on to baby blankets for a special keep sake. You need to use a water soluble topper when embroidering fabrics with a pile to ensure the fabric doesn’t poke through your stitches. We stock Avalon water soluble topper which is perfect for the job and dissolves in cold water. I would recommend using a medium weight cut away stabilizer and using some temporary adhesive spray such as 505 spray to ensure your stabilizer and fabric don’t move in the hoop. The key to successful embroidery is to ensure you don’t stretch the plush fabric in your embroidery hoop and to make sure it’s your stabiliser that is drum tight.

I hope this guide helps has enlightened you to the joys of sewing with plush and wish you many happy makes from this wonderfully addictive fabric.

About me: A self confessed fabric addict, I adore fabric of all kinds and the journey of imagination and possibilities it presents. When I’m not managing my web shop www.plushaddict.co.uk I like to write tutorials and fabric guides for my blog and somewhere I squeeze in looking after my hubby and gorgeously funny daughter!

And if you have any tips of your own to have then do let me know!

A Fabric Guide To Corduroy: What’s In A Wale?

by Kellie Rose | Nov 11, 2014 | Corduroy, Fabric, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide

I still remember the first time I worked with corduroy – it was equal parts thrilling and daunting. The velvety texture seemed alive, slipping through my fingers and challenging every sewing skill I thought I had mastered. But when I finally finished my first corduroy project – a pinafore dress for my daughter – the sense of accomplishment was unmatched.

Corduroy isn’t just a fabric; it’s a statement. From its royal origins to its role in modern fashion, this textured classic is back and bolder than ever. Whether you’re a fashion enthusiast or a sewing hobbyist, corduroy’s versatility and charm make it a must-have in your fabric collection.

Whether you’re sewing your first project or revisiting this classic fabric with new eyes, corduroy has a way of transforming the ordinary into something extraordinary. Let’s explore its history, decode its unique characteristics, and uncover the secrets to mastering this iconic textile. Ready to stitch a little history into your next project?

What Does Corduroy Mean? The Royal Origins of This Beloved Fabric

Dive a little deeper into the etymology of our beloved fabric, and you’ll find that “Corduroy,” believe it or not, tips its hat to the French phrase *cord du roi*, translating to “cloth of the king.”

How’s that for a royal endorsement?!

This moniker harks back to an era when corduroy wasn’t just fabric; it was a symbol of service and loyalty, woven into the very uniforms of French royal servants during the opulent 17th and 18th centuries.

Today, the notion that corduroy once dressed the servants of French royals adds a layer of historical intrigue to our modern appreciation of the fabric. It’s a testament to corduroy’s versatility and enduring popularity.

What is a Corduroy Wale?

What’s in a wale? Wale, in corduroy terms, refers to those distinctive vertical ribs or cords that give the fabric its personality and texture. But here’s where it gets interesting: the size of the wale can completely transform the look and feel of your garment.

Wale 101: The Basics

A wale count refers to the number of ribs per inch. High wale counts mean finer, denser ribs (think sleek and sophisticated), while lower counts are all about that bold, textured look (hello, statement piece!). Choosing the right wale is like choosing the right accessory for an outfit—it can make or break your look.

Wale refers to the vertical ribs that define corduroy’s texture, and it’s a crucial detail for sewists. Here’s a quick guide:

High Wale Count (e.g., 12-14): Fine, dense ribs for a sleek, elegant look—perfect for shirts and dresses.
Low Wale Count (e.g., 4-6): Bold, textured ribs that stand out—ideal for jackets, trousers, and statement pieces.

Choose your wale count based on the project’s purpose and the visual impact you want.

How to Choose the Perfect Wale for Your Corduroy Sewing Projects

Selecting the right wale is like choosing the perfect accessory for an outfit—it can make or break your look. For beginners, start with mid-wale fabrics (8-10) for balanced texture and versatility. Advanced sewists can experiment with contrasting wale counts within a single design to create visual depth and interest.

Corduroy for First-Timers: A Beginner’s Guide

If you’re new to sewing with corduroy, don’t worry—you’re not alone. This fabric, with its unique ridges and luxurious texture, can seem a little daunting at first. But with a few simple tips and starter-friendly projects, you’ll be well on your way to creating something beautiful.

Why Corduroy is Perfect for Beginners

It’s sturdy and forgiving, making it ideal for practice.
Its texture adds visual interest, even to simple designs.
Available in various wale counts, it suits a range of projects.

Beginner-Friendly Corduroy Projects

Cushion Covers: A simple square shape lets you focus on straight stitches and aligning the nap.
Tote Bags: Perfect for experimenting with wale texture without too many complex seams.
Headbands or Hair Scrunchies: Quick, satisfying, and a great way to use up scraps.

Tips to Get Started

Choose a High Wale Count: Smaller ridges are easier to sew and create a more refined look.
Stick to Simple Patterns: Focus on basic shapes and straight seams to build your confidence.
Take Your Time: Corduroy’s texture demands care, but the results are worth it!

Remember, every sewing journey starts with a single stitch. Corduroy may seem a little tricky, but it’s also incredibly rewarding. With these beginner projects, you’ll master this timeless fabric in no time.

Sewing with Corduroy: Tips to Master the Nap and Avoid Common Mistakes

Corduroy’s nap is its defining feature, but it requires care. Follow these tips:

Cut in One Direction: Always align your pattern pieces in the same direction to maintain a consistent look.
Mark the Nap: Use tailor’s chalk to indicate the nap direction on the fabric’s back.
Adjust Your Tools: Use a walking foot and an 80/20 needle to handle the fabric’s ridges with ease.

Mastering the nap ensures your finished garment looks professional and polished.

Why the Nap Matters

When sewing with corduroy, aligning the nap is crucial. It affects the colour and sheen of your garment. Light hits those ridges differently depending on their direction, giving your piece that lush, velvety look.

Top 10 Sewing Tips for Working with Corduroy: Tools, Techniques, and Finishes

Cut in One Direction: Always cut your pattern pieces in the same direction. Consistency is key to avoiding a mismatched, patchwork appearance.
Cut with Care: Corduroy demands precision in cutting. Those wales are vertical lines and it will be so obvious if you cut your fabric on the wonk. Lay your fabric flat, ensuring all pieces are aligned in the same direction, and measure the grain line arrow parallel to the selvage edge – make sure it’s even, ok?!
Mark the Nap Direction: Before you cut, take a moment to mark the direction of the nap on the back of your fabric. A simple arrow with tailor’s chalk can save you a world of confusion later.
Pinning and Marking: Use fine, sharp pins to avoid marking the fabric’s surface. Consider using tailor’s chalk or a disappearing fabric marker for any markings.
The Right Needle and Thread: An 80/20 needle is a safe bet with a stitch length of 2.3-3mm. Paired with a strong, high-quality thread, will help you stitch through corduroy’s ridges. You may wish to loosen your top tension or use a walking foot if you find the fabric is travelling a little – the nap might cause this to happen.
Stitches and Seams: Opt for slightly longer stitches to accommodate the fabric’s thickness and texture. When it comes to seams, pressing open and trimming or grading seam allowances will reduce bulk and maintain the garment’s silhouette.
Pressing Matters: Pressing corduroy requires a gentle touch. Use a press cloth to protect the nap from becoming crushed or shiny. Steam and a lifting motion, rather than dragging the iron, will keep the fabric’s texture intact. Think of it as grooming a thoroughbred; finesse is key.
Handling Stretch Corduroy: If you’re venturing into the realm of stretch corduroy, remember to use a ballpoint needle and a stretch stitch setting on your machine.
Finishing Touches: Consider serging or using a zigzag stitch on raw edges to prevent fraying. For a truly noble finish, adding a lining can elevate your garment, providing both comfort and a glimpse of luxury befitting its royal roots.
Embrace the Nap for Texture: Feeling adventurous? Use the nap to add texture and depth to your design. A pocket or collar against the nap can add a subtle contrast, making your piece pop. Be warned though – a little goes a long way.

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What’s your take on corduroy? Is it a fashion yes, or a hard no

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A Toddler Duvet Cover

by Kellie Rose | Oct 8, 2014 | My Makes, Quilt Fabric

I’m not alone that many of my sewing makes end up being dictated around my family and their needs and desires, well ok – mostly Baby Plush and the things she needs (I really should stop calling her Baby Plush as she’s almost three now, I’ll have to think of another descriptive, but anonymous name for her soon). All of a sudden she seemed to have outgrown her sleeping bag overnight and was was about to burst out of the bottom of it. I was prepared for such a day with a duvet and pillow, but hadn’t managed to get a duvet cover and I decided I needed one quick smart! I was going to buy a shop bought one as I needed it so quickly but after scouring the possibilities of shop bought versions I just couldn’t find anything that was nice and would go in her non-pink room, or that wasn’t a polycotton when I really wanted 100% cotton. So time against me, I decided to run over to the warehouse one Sunday afternoon and get some fabric and knocked this up. It was super easy and gave me an excuse to use Gnomeville again which has to be one of my all time favourite fabrics.

Gnomeville from Michael Miller – just look at those cute little fellas!

If you are thinking of making one of these you’ll need to do a bit of easy piecing because 110cm width isn’t enough fabric (in this case you need extra on the “height” as Gnomeville is a border print). I used Michael Miller’s Red Quarter Dot which matches the dots on Gnomeville exactly and there was enough Quarter Dot fabric left over to make the pillow case. I used this extra wide backing fabric from Wilmington for the reverse so I didn’t have to have a join on the back. You could use buttons to fasten it but if you’re lazy like me KAM snaps are the way forward. The size 16s are perfect for duvets as they keep snapped but aren’t too hard to undo when you’re in a hurry on laundry day.

Size 16 KAM snaps in action

Of course there’s a wash one, wear one scenario with bedding so I had to make two in the end. For the second one I decided to use one of the Riley Blake Extra Wide fabrics. These puppies are a whopping 274cm wide are used for backing quilts but I used 1.25m (the duvet is 150cm x 120cm), folded over the top and pieced a bit of quilt cotton at the lower border and used the remainder of the contrast print as the pillow case so this one is just two pieces of fabric – easy peasy! Alas we don’t have this ladybird fabric anymore but if you want to hunt it out it’s a Robert Kaufman Picnic Party print.

Unfortunately she seems to almost be growing out of the cot bed all of a sudden so we’ll be upgrading to her first proper bed soon enough (where is the time going?!) I doubt I’ll get away with something non-pink and non princessy for the next redecoration. Why is it that little girls love pink so much? She certainly didn’t get it from me. Have you made any of your own bedding? Is it something you’d consider?

What is Ponte Di Roma? A Fabric Guide

by Kellie Rose | Jul 16, 2014 | Fabric, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Ponte Roma Fabric, Stretch Fabric

It seems that the knit fabric ponte di roma (also known as punto-di-roma, but I’m going to call it ponte roma for short) is all the rage at the moment and much credit must lie with Tilly Walnes and her wonderful Coco Pattern. And what’s not to love? It’s an easy knit to sew, it doesn’t crease, it doesn’t cling to your lumps and bumps like some knit fabrics, it’s an all round good egg. The fabric was developed in Italy (the clue is in the name) and I’m very glad they did (to think they gave us this AND pizza – praise be for Italy!)

We’ve just had a lovely delivery of this scrummy knit so I thought I’d get tapping in case you were wondering what it was. I love these houndstooth prints… I’m reliably informed that houndstooth is the new chevron, don’t you know.

Construction of Ponte Roma

The fabric is a double knit , which means it’s a double layer of fabric knitted with a 2 sets of needles on 2 needle beds most probably on a machine that looks like this which I think it looks like the Tardis controls… I’m glad we just sell fabric and don’t have to operate scary looking machinery like this.

The fabric can be knitted from all sorts of different types and weights of yarns and elastane is often included to increase the stretch. It’s a firm, stable knit which holds it’s shape well in a garment, great news for the longevity of your lovingly made creations helping them to look great for longer. Being a double knit means that it’s a two faced fabric so it can often (but not always) be used for unlined or reversible items.

Sewing with Ponte Di Roma Fabric

As far as knits go, ponte is a good fabric to start experimenting with. It’s nice and stable, doesn’t have a huge amount of stretch and won’t curl too much either when cut. Try sewing ponte roma with ball point needle in a 70/10-90/12 size. Stay tape might be useful for ensuring your seams don’t run away with you under the needle. Stitch length works well at 2-2.5mm It requires nap layout when cutting out your pattern so bear that in mind when calculating fabric requirements,

I hope you found that helpful. What have you ben making with ponte recently?

Denim Jean Fabric: A Guide And Sewing Tips

by Kellie Rose | Jun 12, 2014 | Denim, Fabric, Fabric Guides, Product Guides

There’s nothing quite like a good pair of denim jeans, is there? It’s such a versatile fabric which only improves with age and wear. We have the French to thank for denim, originally woven in the town of Nîmes for overalls and sailcloth it was known as “serge de Nîmes” which got shortened to “de Nîmes” and the name was born. Denim is a strong and durable twill woven fabric made from 100% cotton. Traditionally the warp yarns are dyed an indigo colour and the weft yarn is left undyed which is why true denim fabric is different colours on either side (for real fabric geeks, if your denim is the same colour on both sides it’s actually jean fabric, not denim!) We have recently started stocking denim, you can see our collection here and we carry a wide range of weights (including fat quarters) and colours. We also have stretch denim which is particularly great for clothing makes.

Uses for Denim Jean Fabric

Denim is super versatile. As it’s 100% cotton it’s great for casual wear clothing such as jeans, skirts, jackets, shorts, children’s clothes, workwear overalls and protective clothing. As denim is very hardwearing it would also be great for home wear items such as oven gloves, cushions, decorative upholstery and bags.

A Guide to Denim Weights

Denim comes in a vast array of weights and one of our most frequently asked questions is whether a denim classes as light, medium or heavy weight.

Lightweight – or under 12 Oz.
Mid-weight – or from 12 Oz. – 16 Oz.
Heavyweight – anything above 16 Oz.

The rule is the heavier the denim, the better it will age and fade *but* heavier weight denim will be very stiff to start off with and take time to wear in and soften. The most common denims used, and the easiest to handle, are the light and medium weight.

Sewing With Denim

Denim is a rough and tough fabric and the main problem is poses for sewing is the thickness of the fabric, as such you need to right kit for the job to ensure success. 1) Use a denim needle which are stronger than “normal” needles and have a sharper point both of which will help you sew through a heavier fabric. 2) Use denim thread, it’s stronger and especially important on stress seams. 3) Go slowly! Those layers of denim might leave your machine struggling, if that’s the case then slow down and use your hand wheel. 4) Reduce bulk. Some machines will glide through layers of denim with no issues, others might not have the wellie needed to cope. If this is the case then reduce bulk where you can by pressing seams out flat or by using thinner fabrics as facings of linings which is not only practical, but will also add some pretty design features to your work. You can also trim seams right back to your stitching line (being careful not to cut your stitches of course) 5) Use a longer stitch length, about 3-3.5 should do it. Have you made anything lately with denim? I’d love to see photos if you have!

How To Restore Plush (Minky) Remnants

by Kellie Rose | Jun 11, 2014 | Discount Fabric, Fabric, Fabric Guides, Fabric Remnants, Minky Fabric, Tutorials

Plush, minky, cuddle fabric… whatever you like to call it! (For an update on why we don’t call the fabric “minky” in the UK like the rest of the world does see this post) There’s no mistaking the lusciousness that started me on the road to our online shop. The trouble is (for us) the last 50cm-75cm of every bolt we have can only be sold as a fabric remnant. The pile near to the centre of the bolt gets brushed up the wrong way and crushed when the weight of the rest of the fabric piles on top of it. Then it’s stored by the manufacturer for a while and in that time unfortunately the pile goes a bit wayward and no amount of stroking it puts it back to it’s former glory. The fabric isn’t permanently like this as the pile isn’t damaged per se, it’s just got a bit of bed hair so needs a little coaxing to restore it.

We finish a lot of plush bolts each week which means we have a lot of remnants being created all of the time, in fact we are drowning in the stuff. We have a whole corner of our warehouse dedicated to plush remnants! There are just too many for us to list for sale individually so we also sell bundles at a reduced price. I thought I’d share this quick guide on how to breathe the life back in to the end of roll plush fabric. It’s perfectly good, and a bargain too so it’s worth considering having a go at this if you are a plush lover.

Everything I’d ever read about plush or minky fabric told me never to iron the fabric, not surprising when you think that it’s 100% polyester so liable to melt! I first discovered this technique completely by accident, I was experimenting with some plush remnants to see if I could iron on Bondaweb to the reverse of the fabric and run it through our die cutter machine to make some plush appliqué shapes. Low and behold, not only did the Bondaweb stick, and I could, but the pile on the plush was completely restored.

Restoring Smooth Plush (Smooth Minky Fabric)

1) Set your iron to low and turn off the steam and iron the reverse of the fabric

iron the reverse of the fabric using a low dry heat

Often that’s all you need to do! It very much depends on the extent of the issue and will vary each time.

2) If you find this hasn’t worked try increasing the heat slightly. I’d recommend never getting any higher that the wool setting on your iron, any higher and you risk melting the fabric.

3) Sometimes the higher heat still doesn’t fully do the job and some bed hair remains, if that’s the case then flip your fabric over and iron the right side, making sure that the iron passes in the same direction as the pile.

iron the reverse of the fabric using a low dry heat 2

How to Restore Dimple Plush (Dimple Minky Fabric)

Now dimple is a different beast, whatever you do don’t go ironing dimple as otherwise the dimples will disappear. For ages I didn’t think anything could be done to restore dimple without a wash but then I had a brain wave and had another little experiment… and it worked!

Here’s a before picture…

All you need to do is pop your dimple plush in the tumble dryer for 10 minutes (mine was on the highest setting). Don’t leave it sitting in there to cool or it will crease more. Remove it and smooth the pile down

And here’s the finished result, perfect!

Most cuts will restore as good as new using these methods, but some are stubborn and just won’t completely disappear this way, but the pile will always restore after a launder in the washing machine as these bad hair days are not a permanent thing.

If you have discovered a different method then I’d love to hear it.

Happy Days!

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