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Make A Reversible Baby Bib – Free Pattern And Video Tutorial

Make A Reversible Baby Bib – Free Pattern And Video Tutorial

by | Apr 9, 2021 | Tutorials

You have been loving our Dribble Bib blog post, so I thought it was time to show you how to make a reversible baby bib with these gorgeous Farm Days fabrics from Dashwood Studio!

You Will Need…

(Measurements are for 1 bib)

2 Cotton Fabrics min. 25x40cm each (We used Farm Days from Dashwood Studio!)

Thread

Kam snaps

Handy Tools We Used…

Needle Grippers

Pinking Shears

Important Things To Remember…

Use a 1cm seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise stated

When machine sewing, always backstitch at the start and at the end

Pre-wash your fabrics

Drop the stitch length around the curves for a smoother curve

Disclaimer: Suffocation hazard. Never leave a child unattended when wearing a reversible bib. Always remove a bib when a child is sleeping.

Want a ready-to-use pattern? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the reversible baby bib pattern.

DOWNLOAD Pattern

Prefer written instructions? Check out our Dribble bib blog!

Ready? Click below to go to our YouTube channel for a step by step tutorial!

Don’t forget to subscribe for more tutorials and handy fabric guides.

Loved making this? We would love to see your makes over on the Plush Club Facebook group! Feel free to ask any questions there, or in the comments below.

Sew A Make Up Bag: Free Pattern and Tutorial To Make A Large Make Up Bag

Sew A Make Up Bag: Free Pattern and Tutorial To Make A Large Make Up Bag

by | Apr 6, 2021 | My Makes, Tutorials

Fancy making a roomy make up bag pouch to show off some fave fabric prints? We just LOVE a make up bag with an accent fabric –  it’s a really easy way to add sprinkling of extra interest to your project. At the end of this tutorial, you will be able to sew a large make up bag. In addition, there is a free pattern to download.

This make up bag is a really great size. The finished bag ends up approx 28cm wide & 17cm deep… add to that a flat bottom & the fact that zip isn’t sewn into the side seams means the pouch is BIG! So you can fit loads of your make up or toiletries inside. Or use it for craft supplies!

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We’ve created a FREE PDF pattern for you to download and get stitching.

Download it below!

Get your free make up bag pattern here!

Click the button below to download.

DOWNLOAD PATTERN

This project is well within the grasp of a confident beginner.

If you need supplies for this project you can find everything you need in our online Sewing SuperStore – Plush Addict. You’ll find links for everything we’ve used throughout this free tutorial to make it super simple for you!

The fabrics we used in this project are from the Michiko collection from Makower & we think they make for a pretty elegant make up bag, the tassel is a darling finishing touch!

If you can bear to give it away after you’ve made it, this make up bag will make a beautiful gift for someone dear.

How To Sew A Make Up Bag

Sewing Skill Level: Confident Beginner

You will learn

How to insert a zip

How to apply woven interfacing

Important Information!

1cm seam allowance, unless directed

Use a 2.5mm straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length unless otherwise directed

You will need the following to sew the make up bag:

The PDF Pattern. Request your copy here 

1 FQ quilting cotton for lining (pattern piece C)

30cm x 35cm quilting cotton  outer A

30cm x 40cm quilting cotton  outer B

Scrap quilting cotton for Zipper tab measuring 2” x 3”

50cm fusible Woven interfacing (Grab a cheeky 10% discount off your next Fusible Woven Interfacing purchase with WOVEN10 One time use per customer.)

50cm x 30cm of  Fusible Fleece

12” zip (or longer) We used a 14″ zip and trimmed it down

1 x 10mm  tassel (or make your own with a tassel maker!)

Thread

We used fabrics from the beautiful  Michiko collection from Makower available from our online fabric shop here

Optional but very useful tools:

Clover Curved Awl

Wonder clips

Applique scissors

Let’s get started!…

Step 1: Cut your fabrics, interfacing & fusible fleece on the fold, as directed on the pattern pieces (request the pattern here).

Step 2: Iron the woven interfacing to outer fabrics A & B. For full instructions on how to apply woven interfacing please check out this post.

Step 3: Iron on fusible fleece to the Lining C following manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 4: Take 1 x outer A and 1 x outer B  & then sew with RST, taking note of which way is the top of your bag (especially important with a directional fabric – you don’t want to sew it upside down!).

Step 5: Press the seam allowance to one side (the darker fabric side) &  top stitch with 3mm stitch length.

Step 6: Repeat steps 4 & 5 for the other side of the make up bag. You should now have fabrics that look like this.

Inserting The Zip:

Step 7: Fold back the end of the zip tape so it makes a right angle to the zip teeth. Tack with a couple of hand stitches.

Step 8: With outer piece face up lay the prepared zipper teeth side down.

Step 9: Take one of the outer pieces & mark with a pin ¾” from the left edge of the and 1” from the right hand side.

Step 10: With the zip teeth face down against the right side of the fabric, align the metal zip stop with the pin ¾” from the fabric edge.

Step 11: Aligning the zip tape with the raw edge of the fabric pin the zip in place. Baste the zip in place with ⅛” seam allowance aligning the fabric edge. Stop stitching at the 1” mark at the other end of the fabric.

Step 12: Lay the lining piece face down to sandwich the zip between the outer and lining fabrics.

Step 13: Stitch the zip in place with ¼” seam. When you get to the point you have marked 1” from the other end stop with your needle down.

Step 14: Pull the zipper tape away from the raw edge so the zipper is no longer in line to be stitched.

Pro Tip – A curved awl like this one is a very helpful tool here) Carry on with the seam to the edge of the fabric, stitching through the outer and lining fabrics only.

Step 15: Trim the fusible fleece excess out of the zip seam allowance.

Pro tip – These applique scissors make this a cinch & lessen your chances of cutting in to your fabrics by mistake.

Step 16: Finger press the zip seam,  but don’t top stitch yet.

Step 17: Repeat steps 5 – 8 for the other side of the zip. Remembering to mirror the markings points as the outer piece is a mirror. Your project should now look like this…

Get your free pattern to sew a make up bag here!

Click the button below to download.

DOWNLOAD PATTERN

Sewing Up The Pouch:

Step 18: Open the zipper half way for turning purposes & pin the loose zipper tail to the lining to keep it out of the way.

Step 19: Bring together the 2 x outer pieces & 2 x lining pieces RST. On the outer pieces pin/ clip at the seam join & then clip all the way around, making sure the seam match at the outer seam and the zipper.

Step 20: Sew down both both side seams only.

Step 21: Trim away the excess fusible fleece from the seam allowance.

Step 22: Sew the bottom seam of the outer layer, then sew the lining fabric but leave a 4”-5” turning gap. Trim away the excess fusible fleece from the seam allowance.

Sewing The Corner:

Step 23: On each corner match the seams.

Step 24: Clip the bottom seams together & then sew, making sure the seam allowances are sewn open. Do this for all corners.

Step 25: Trim back the excess fabric on the corner seams to ¼”. Repeat for all 4 corners.

Step 26: Trim excess fabric at either end of the zip, being careful not to cut your stitch line.

Step 27: Turn your bag to the right side through the hole left in the lining & then stitch the hole closed either by hand or by machine with a very scant seam.

Step 28: Top stitch all round the top of the bag with a 3.5mm stitch length.

Adding The Zipper Tab

Step 29: Crop off any the excess on zip tail to suit your desired length – you need to leave at least 1”.

Step 30: Take your zipper tab fabric and press in each edge by 1cm, then fold in half along the long side. With both short ends folded in 1cm, place 1 folded edge at the reverse of the zip and wrap both sides around the zip tape.

Step 31: Once both sides are wrapped around fold up the long side in half and match the 2 short folded edges and pin/clip in place.

Step 32: Stitch around the 4 sides of the zip tab with a ⅛” seam.

Pro Tip – the Clover curved awl can really help here for tucking in the edges of fabric that want to peek out!

Press your bag and you are finished!

Get your free make up bag pattern here!

Click the button below to download.

DOWNLOAD PATTERN

All done!

We hope you found this tutorial useful!

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials!

A Guide To Haberdashery – A History and Definition

A Guide To Haberdashery – A History and Definition

by | Mar 31, 2021 | Haberdashery, Haberdashery Guides

3.5 minute read

Haberdashery – it’s a great word, isn’t it? Ever wondered what it is? Or where such a wonderful word comes from?

You’re not the only one!

Read on to find out all things haberdashery. We’ll be going into detail and explaining all you need to know to become a seasoned haberdasher. You’ll feel confident going out and exploring the world of sewing accessories!

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

History of the word Haberdashery

Haberdashery is pronounced “ha-buh-da-shu-ree” and has a rich history. It’s such a great word! But where did it come into our language?

One of the first sightings of the word is seen in English poet Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales. Chaucer describes peddlers who sold buttons, needles & other sewing items. This dates the word back to at least the 14th century!

Haberdashery derives from “hapertas” that’s thought to have meant “small ware”, although others say it was used to describe a type of fabric.

The word has been around for centuries, nonetheless the true origins of it are still unknown today.

Often the word “haberdashery” is shortened to “habby” so if you hear that being banded around, you know what this abbreviation means!

UK & US Haberdashery Differences

Interestingly the word haberdashery has a different meaning with our friends across the pond in the US, instead, the word “notions” is used to describe haberdashery supplies!

Over in the US the word Haberdashery is instead a term used to describe a speciality accessory store for men selling hats, gloves & scarves.

But they also sell what we now know as haberdashery supplies in the UK – buttons, needles, threads and more!

As time passed US haberdasheries evolved to also tailor to women, but still focused on hats and accessories.

However here in the UK they became the go-to place for all sorts of sewing bits and bobs, more of a craft and sewing shop.

The world of sewing and sewing accessories has experienced a massive boost in interest recently partly due to the pandemic, lots of people turned to their hobbies to pass time and even more people discovered new hobbies!

The Great British Sewing Bee has also massively contributed to the expansion of sewing and haberdashery in Britain, we all love a good competition!

What supplies do you find in a haberdashery?

ALL the sewing things! In short it’s an all encompassing word describing is the small bits & bobs used in sewing projects. You could call them a seam-star’s sewing accessories.

Some common items are:

This list isn’t exhaustive – there’s literally hundreds of variations for each of these items –  it’s pretty broad.

More often than not you can’t complete a sewing project without using some type of haberdashery! And over time your stash will increase (along with your need for habby storage & organisation 🤣)

Where can you buy haberdashery supplies?

Habby items are usually sold by fabric & sewing shops. A Google search for “haberdashery near me” will bring up all your local merchants, it’s a great way to support local small businesses!

And if there’s not one near to you then we’re here to help! Our online sewing superstore has a HUGE range of haberdashery items & we ship sewing supplies not only throughout the UK, but worldwide too.

We know that sometimes buying sewing supplies online can be daunting. What if the colours don’t match?! Colours CAN be off when buying from a screen – we totally get this… There’s nothing more annoying than ordering a thread to match your fabric from screen, only to have it arrive and it’s totally off.
We have a service available as standard to eliminate any matchy matchy stress! We offer a free colour match service. Just order what you *think* matches then leave us a comment in the notes field at checkout asking us to check that your colours match. If they don’t – we’ll swap them for you – simples!

And if when your new haberdashery items arrive they’re not right, we also offer Free UK Returns! 

About Us

Plush Addict is a local, family run business started by myself and Mr.Plush (Hubbydasherer) over 9 years ago. We’ve grown from a bedroom business selling cloth nappy supplies to having one of the best stocked haberdasheries in the country!

We stock a huge range of both fabric & haberdashery and we strive to be a one stop shop for your sewing projects.

We hope you found this insightful and learnt a little more about the history of haberdashery.

If you stumbled here looking for some sewing bits, head on over to our website to shop all things haberdashery and fabric!

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials!

Free 30 Minute Skirt Tutorial

Free 30 Minute Skirt Tutorial

by | Mar 29, 2021 | Tutorials

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Need an outfit in a hurry or an emergency gift? If you’re looking to showcase or share some fabulous fabric, this super quick elasticated skirt tutorial will soon have you stepping out in style. It’s budget friendly too – you only need a few resources for this one.

 

Skill level: Confident Beginner

 

You will learn

  • How to find the quarter points
  • How to sew elastic
  • How to add an elastic waistband

You will need:

  • Skirt: Cotton fabric Width: Double the wearer’s waist size plus 6cm. Length: Required length plus 3cm
  • Waistband: 38mm Elastic Waist size plus 3cm

We used:

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Important notes

  • 1.5cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
  • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
  • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturers care advice.

Tips for sewing elastic

  • We recommend the following needle types: Ballpoint needle, Jersey needle, Stretch needle
  • Stitch: Stretch stitch or Zig zag with a short stitch length and long stitch width
  • Thread type: Polyeste or sewe all thread
  • Sewing clips reduce the risk of snagging
  • We do not advise using an overlocker; they can snag and fray this type of elastic

Method for making an elasticated skirt

Cut the materials:

1. Cut out the materials as calculated above:

  • Skirt: Cut as either 1 or 2 panels depending on the fabric design/ size. For 2 panels cut the panels half the total width x total length. For a single panel cut total width minus 3cm x Length
  • Waistband: as calculated above

Prepare the waistband

2. Clip the 2 ends of the waistband together and sew.

3. Separately tidy the ends of the elastic using zig zag stitch: length 2, width 2. Tie the thread ends to secure.

4. Open the seam and stitch the seam allowances to the waistband so they sit flat.

Prepare the skirt

 

5. Clip and sew the 2 skirt panels together or for 1 panel clip and sew the 2 sides together.

6. Press the seam allowances open and tidy with zig zag stitch: length 2, width 3, tying the ends to secure.

7. Turn the skirt out the right way

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Assemble the elasticated skirt

 

8. Find the quarter points around the top of the skirt and waistband and mark:

  • On a 2 panel skirt the side quarter points are marked by the side seams. Bring these together and smooth the fabric out to the sides, where the fabric folds are the other 2 points.
  • On the waistband and 1 panel skirt use the seam as the back ¼ point. Fold along the back seam, smoothing out the material and where a fold forms on the other side is the front point. Bring the front and back points together, smooth the material to the sides and the 2 folds are the side points.

9. With the right sides facing line up the points on the skirt and waistband and clip together position the waistband join to the back.

10. Stretch the elastic to the length of the fabric between the points and clip together. A spare pair of hands can make this easier.

11. Starting centre back sew the skirt and waistband together: Use zig zag stitch, 1 length, 4 width, sew as close to the edge as possible. Stretch the elastic as it approaches and exits the presser foot. Overlap the start point and tie thread ends to secure.

Sew the hem

 

12. Fold over and press the bottom 2cm of the skirt.

13. Turn the raw edge under to reach the crease and press again to create a hem.

14. Stitch along the edge of the hem (approx. 8mm from the bottom of the skirt) to finish.

And you’re done! Congrats!

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We hope you found this tutorial useful!

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

Follow @PlushAddict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials!

Make An Easy Reading Cushion Tutorial

Make An Easy Reading Cushion Tutorial

by | Mar 26, 2021 | Interfacing and Interlining, My Makes, Quilt Fabric, Tutorials

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Need an easy reading cushion tutorial?

I don’t know about you, but when I think of reading a book I want to snuggle up somewhere cosy & lose myself among the pages.

This reading cushion tutorial allows you make a cushion that brings all the best things together; a cushion for cosiness, a safe spot for your book & an extra space for a torch, cuddly toy or reading glasses.

The handle makes it easy to escape to your favourite spot. And there is no risk of corner folding savagery… there’s a bookmark too!

Skill level: Adventurous beginner

You will need

We used the following in this reading cushion tutorial:

 

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Important notes for this reading cushion tutorial

 

1 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.

Pre-wash your fabrics

Disclaimer – Strangulation hazard, children must be supervised when using the book pocket cushion.

Cut the fabrics

1. Cut pieces in both fabric & interlining using the measurements above

For the cushion:

  • 1 Cushion front
  • 1 Cushion back

For the bookmark:

  • 2 Bookmark pieces: Choose 2 17.5x6cm panels – cut adding a 5mm border to all sides

For the pocket: *Note the interfacing is cut separately as 1 panel

  • 2 Pocket sides: Choose 2 17.5x25cm panels – cut adding a 1cm border top and bottom and a 5mm border on both sides
  • 1 Pocket centre: Choose 1 8x25cm panel – cut adding a 1cm border at the top and bottom and 5mm border on both sides
  • Pocket Interlining: 45x27cm

Prepare the fabric

2. Apply the fusible interfacing to the cushion front and back

New to woven interfacing? Check out our how to product guide here

Assemble the reading cushion back panel

3. Measure and mark a line 11cm from the shortest edge of the back piece.

4. Cut along the line to form the zip opening.

5. Tidy the 2 raw edges of the zip opening using an overlocker or zig zag stitch.

6. Clip or pin the 2 sides of the zip opening right sides together.

7. Baste along the opening with a 1cm seam allowance.

8. Press the seam open.

Prepare the zip

9. Seal the ends of the tape gently, taking care not to damage the zipper teeth.

Want to know your #5 from your #3 zip? Check out our Zip Type Guide

10. Pull the bottom 10cm of the zipper teeth apart.

11. With the back of the zip pull and back of the tape facing upwards thread 1 end of the tape into the zipper from the top. To make this easier angle the teeth into the pull from the side.

12. Repeat step 4. on the other side. Both sets of teeth should sit toward the top of the clasp.

13. Keeping the 2 sides of teeth level with each other, hold the zip pull between one finger/ thumb then draw the 2 sides of the tape down through the pull with the other hand. The zip pull should then begin to move up the tape.

14. Slide the pull toward the top of the tape (without coming off the other end) then pull it back down to check the zip works.

Top tip:

A fork can help hold the zip pull: tuck the bar of the zip between the central teeth (not the clasp where the teeth need to go). A blob of blue-tack can help keep the fork still.

Sew the zip

15. On the cushion back panel with the zip fastened, align the zipper teeth along the basted seam line. Position the zip, pull side down, end aligned with one edge, pull and excess tape overhanging at the other.

16. Tape or baste the zip in place.

17. Starting at the end nearest the zip pull, begin sewing using a zipper foot. Backstitch at the start then sew down to the bottom of the zip.

18. Stop sewing 5mm from the bottom. Turn and sew across the bottom carefully, backstitching for added strength.

19. Turn and sew along the other side of the zip teeth to the top and backstitch.

20. Remove the tape/ zip basting stitches.

21. Turn the cushion back over and unpick the basting stitches using a seam ripper. Remove all loose threads (a lint roller can help with this) then test the zip.

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Assemble the pocket

22. One at a time, align the edge of a pocket side panel piece with the corresponding edge on pocket centre piece and pin.

23. Sew the pieces together with a 5mm seam allowance then press the seams open.

24. Apply the interlining to the back of the pocket piece.

25. Hem the top of the pocket by folding over and pressing the top 1cm of the panel.

26. Turn the raw edge under to reach the crease and press again to create a hem.

27. Clip and sew along the edge of the pressed hem to secure.

28. Align the bottom of the pocket piece with the bottom of the cushion front.

29. Pin along the seam line that runs between the right and centre pocket panels

30. Sew along the seam line. Backstitch twice at the top of the pocket for strength.

Position the strap

31. Fold the back cushion piece in half and finger press a crease in the centre of the top edge.

32. Position each end of the webbing 7.5cm from the crease and pin with the strap ends and fabric edge aligned.

Assemble the cushion

33. Lay the pieces out in the following order:

  • Cushion front and pocket – right side up
  • Cushion back – right side down with the strap ends to the top (strap tucked down between the layers)

34. Vertically pin the opening end of the zip then unzip it by 10cm.

35. Clip or pin the 4 sides of the cushion together.

36. Sew the easy reading cushion front and back together. Carefully backstitch at each end of the zipper tape, the strap ends and the tops of the pocket for strength.

37. Clip the corners, cut off the excess zip tape (using domestic scissors for the teeth) and turn the cushion out the right way.

38. For a polished finish, press the completed cushion cover.

Make the bookmark

39. Pin the 2 bookmark pieces right sides together.

40. Leaving a 5cm opening, sew around the bookmark with a 5mm seam allowance.

41. Clip the corners and turn out the right way.

42. Press the bookmark

43. Sew 2 lines of top stitching around the bookmark; the first close to the outer edge and the second 5mm in from the 1st

And you’re finished, well done!

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We hope you found this easy reading cushion tutorial useful.

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials. Please tag us @PlushAddict on your fave social media channel… we’d love to see your makes!