3 Project Ideas For Father’s Day!

by Kellie Rose | May 20, 2021 | Project Ideas, Tutorials

Can you believe it’s almost June? Father’s Day is JUST round the corner.

Buying for men can be surprisingly difficult! Turns out they can be pickier than women, who knew?!

Soooo… What are you getting Dad this year? Another pair of socks? Or do you just about have enough brain bandwidth to make a card?

If so, don’t feel bad! We know times have been trying as of late.

To save you the brain power of having to think of yet ANOTHER fun or creative gift we’ve put together 3 Father’s Day project ideas for you below.

First up is the A5 notebook cover which you can find here.

It’s great for busy office Dad’s to help protect everyday notebooks from wear & tear, but most important little food ridden hands!

Next is the large travel wash bag!

Ideal to store bathroom supplies when holidaying or if Dad is super trendy… use it as a man bag.

Last but not least is the SUPER quick to make 15 minute fabric trays!

This is a project we’ve done previously but repurposed for Father’s Day because they’re so handy!

Who loses their keys more? Mum or Dad? We can bet its Dad.

Whoever it is, these snazzy fabric trays are great to have jotted round the house for the whole family to use & keep keys, wallets or any other everyday essentials.

Check out the tutorials & give Dad a handmade gift this year!

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Large Wash Bag Tutorial – FREE Pattern

by Kellie Rose | May 18, 2021 | My Makes, Project Ideas, PUL Projects, Tutorials, Zips

Sometimes Dads are the trickiest to buy for aren’t they?

On this occasion we thought about going for something practical with that special touch that comes with being handmade. And as an item we all need from time to time, every use will be a little reminder of how much he means to you.

This roomy wash bag is perfect for all dad’s toiletries – it’s big enough for a 2 week holiday! It is 22cm x 17cm x 12cm and lined with waterproof PUL fabric we’ve also given the exterior some Odicoat layers maxing the water repelling properties of this bag. Perfect for splashing around in the shower or by the pool!

A Sewing Project For Adventurous Beginners

You Will Learn:

How to apply Odicoat
How to sew with PUL
How to insert a chunky zip
How to sew a boxed corner

You’ll Need:

The pattern. If you don’t have a copy you can request one is emailed to your inbox from here
50cm Cotton Fabric Outer (We used Victorian Vintage Flight from Nutex)
Odicoat (Grab a cheeky 10% discount off your next Odicoat purchase with WATERPROOFME10)
50cm PUL Fabric Lining
50cm Medium Sew In Interfacing
16” Chunky Zip (We used 16” Dark Grey Chunky Zip)
Thread

Want a ready-to-use pattern? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the wash bag pattern.

DOWNLOAD Pattern

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Check out our other guides to help you with this project:

Here is our guide on how to sew PUL fabric
Here is our guide on how to apply Odicoat

Important Notes & Disclaimers:

1.5cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed otherwise
For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated
Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice

Step 1 – Apply The Odicoat

Before cutting, in case of shrinkage, apply the Odicoat to the right side of the outer fabric: Place your fabric right side up on a covered surface (greaseproof paper or plastic sheeting are ideal).

Step 2

Print the pattern and cut it out.

IMPORTANT: Use the 1” test square to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check print settings. Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the ‘fit to page’ option.

The main pattern piece prints over 4 pages. Match the coloured circles up with their counterpart and sellotape together. Here’s a video explaining it should you not be familiar with putting together PDF patterns

Step 3 Cut your fabrics

Using the pattern pieces cut out the following transfering notches onto all pieces:

2 x Outer fabric
2 x Lining fabric
2 x interfacing

Also:

1 Strap from outer fabric
2 Tabs from outer fabric

Step 4

Clip the sew in interfacing onto the wrong side of each outer piece.

Step 5

Baste the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric all the way round with a 5mm seam allowance.

Sew The Strap

Step 6

Fold the strap piece in half lengthways and press.

Step 7

Fold the raw edges to the crease and press again.

Step 8

Topstitch along the 2 long edges, 2mm from the edge.

Sew The Tabs

Step 9

Fold in 1cm along the long edges and press.

Step 10

Fold the tab in half so the short edges are aligned, raw edges inside and press.

Step 11

Topstitch around 3 sides 2mm from the edge, leaving the bottom edge open.

How To Sew A Chunky Zip

Step 12

Check the zip works. Fold the top 2 tape ends at 45 degree angles.

Sew a few stitches along the outer edge of the zip tape to hold them in place.

Step 13

With one outer piece right side up, align the zip with the top edge, right side down.

The zip bar positioned by the notch. Clip the zip in place.

Step 14

Baste close to the outer edge of the zipper tape, between the notches.

Step 15

Place a PUL lining piece smooth side down, lined up with the outer piece; sandwiching the zip between the two.

Clip along the top edge

Step 16

Using a zipper foot, sew between the notches with a 5mm seam allowance.

*If the PUL moves too much, hand baste before sewing or use a walking foot*

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Step 17

Open out the lining and outer pieces with the zip overlapping the lining, seam allowances underlapping the outer.

Top stitch between the notches on the outer fabric side (1.5cm from each end); Using a zipper foot sew along the outer fabric 2mm from the folded edge nearest the zip.

Step 18

Repeat steps 14. To 17. on the other side of the zip using the corresponding pieces.

Want a ready-to-use pattern? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the wash bag pattern.

DOWNLOAD Pattern

Step 19

Open the zip halfway.

Open out the fabrics either side of the zip; aligning outer fabrics to one side and linings the other.

Clip the bottom edges together, leaving a 10cm turning gap in the lining fabric.

Step 20

Sew along the bottom edges, leaving the opening un-sewn.

Step 21

Press the seam allowance open on the outer fabric only.

Gently pull the outer and lining side panels outwards, allowing the bottom seams to line up with the zip then smooth/ flatten the fabric out either side.

Step 22

At each end of the zip, position a tab between the notches in the 2 layers of the outer fabric only.

Align the raw edges and clip in place, matching up the seam and zip ends, seam allowances open.

Step 23

Smooth the fabric out to either side of the tab and clip the raw edges of the outer fabric together.

Step 24

Sew along each side of the outer fabric only to secure the tab in place.

Backstitching over the tab for reinforcement and taking care near the zip ends.

*When sewing near the end of the zip/ across the teeth, the material may need moving forward manually to create a longer stitch: Sew to the side of the zipper teeth, raise the needle, lift the presser foot and move the fabric enough for the needle to enter the fabric on the other side of the zipper teeth. Reverse this step to go back over the zipper then come forward again to give added strength.*

Caution: trying to sew through the chunky zipper teeth can break the machine needle, which may result in injury

Step 25

Follow steps 22. to 24. for the lining fabric, disregarding the tab directions.

Move the outer fabric to one side but not the zip tape, to avoid gaps in the finished bag.

How To Box Out The Corners

Step 26

Starting at the top end of the outer fabric (where the zip pull sits when the bag is closed).

Make a mark where the fabric creases on the outermost edge.

Step 27

Open out the corner and align the seam with the mark.

Step 28

Thread the strap into the corner until only the end is visible.

Step 29

Position the end of the strap between the notches, raw edge aligned with the edges of the formed corner from step 36.

Clip the strap in position, then smooth out the fabric either side and clip.

Reach through the opening in the lining and open the zip fully.

Working through the opening, guide the other end of the strap to the adjacent corner at the top of the bag.

Step 30

Repeat steps 26. to 29. checking the strap isn’t twisted.

Step 31

Repeat steps 26. to 29. on the remaining 2 corners in the outer fabric and the 4 in the lining fabric, disregarding the strap directions.

Step 32

Sew along the corners.

Step 33

Turn the bag out the right way.

Step 34

Sew the gap in the lining closed.

And you’re finished, well done!

Want a ready-to-use pattern? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the wash bag pattern.

DOWNLOAD Pattern

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We hope you found this tutorial useful! Let us know how you get along in the comments below.

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials!

Tutorial: Sew An A5 Notebook Cover In 30 Minutes

by Kellie Rose | May 16, 2021 | Fabric, My Makes, Quilt Fabric, Tutorials

Sew an A5 notebook cover in 30 minutes. Learn how to do it in this step-by-step tutorial.

There is something so appealing about new stationery; even in an ever increasingly digital age, the perfect notebook still holds its own.

With this in mind we thought a makeover was in order; a cover will level up an already essential item for a lucky recipient.

A Sewing Project For Beginners

You Will Learn:

How to draft a fabric book covering
How to use Decovil

You Will Need:

Note: this should be enough to cover most A5 notebooks, if in doubt, draft the pattern 1^st to check the size.

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How To Draft A Notebook Cover Pattern

1. Cut a length of paper, greaseproof is ideal, large enough to wrap around the cover of the book and fold in either side of the cover to the halfway point (like a book’s dust cover).

Close the book to check sizing before cutting; the cover of the closed book spans a greater distance than when it is open.

The paper needs to be at least 4cm taller than the notebook too.

2. Open out the paper and draw a line 2cm up from the bottom edge.

3. Fold the paper in half bringing the 2 short sides together to find the centre point.

4. Place the spine of the book along the central fold and wrap the paper round the cover.

5. Line up the bottom edge of the notebook along the drawn line.

6. Mark a line on the paper along the top edge of the book and down the 2 edges of the cover.

7. Open the paper out and draw a line 2cm above the marked line at the top.

8. Check the pattern has right angled corners and straighten up any uneven lines, cut it out and label it “Cover”.

9. Measure the total height of the pattern and write it on the pattern (for example, 25cm).

10. Cover the pattern with a second piece of paper and trace out the large rectangle that has formed in the centre, label it “Decovil” and cut it out.

Cut The Fabrics:

11. Cut the following:

1 x outer cover fabric using your “Cover” pattern
1 x lining cover fabric using your “Cover” pattern
1 5x8cm fabric pen tab from your outer fabric
1 x Decovil using your “Decovil” pattern
1 length pattern height elastic (step 9.)
6cm elastic pen loop

How To Apply Decovil

12. Spread a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over an ironing board.

13. Place the outer fabric right side down.

14. Using the markings on the cover pattern piece, position the Decovil shiny side down.

15. Lay a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over the top.

16. Dampen the cover fabric using the iron’s spray setting and press for roughly 6 seconds, heat setting 2.

17. Allow the adhesive to cool and cure for a minimum of 30 minutes.

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Assemble The Pen Tab

18. Fold in 1cm along the long edges of the pen tab and press.

19. Fold and press 1cm of fabric along the short edges and press.

20. Fold the tab in half, encasing the raw edges and press.

21. Fold the elastic pen loop in half and tuck 1cm of the raw edges into the pen tab. Pin to secure.

22. Turn the outer cover right side up and where the design on your fabric is directional ensure it is right way up.

23. Find the line where the Decovil stops on the right and make a mark in the centre of that line.

24. Position the pen tab at that mark, with the tab to the right and the elastic loop overlapping the Decovil to the left.

25. Sew around the 4 sides of the pen tab, tight to the edge to secure.

Position The Bookmark

26. On the left hand side of the outer cover, place the bookmark elastic in parallel, 3cm to the left of the line where the Decovil stops and pin

Assemble The Notebook Cover

27. Align the outer and lining fabrics right sides together.

28. Pin and sew the short edges together only.

Form The Flap Pleats

29. Find the edge of the Decovil on each side, then fold over and press the overhanging fabric.

30. On both sides press the fabric along the seam line to concertina back towards the edge of the Decovil.

31. On both sides fold and press the lining fabric in line with the edge of the Decovil, forming the flaps for the cover.

32. Pin and sew along the top and bottom edges of the cover, leaving a 10cm opening in the bottom edge.

33. Turn the cover out the right way, ensuring the flaps overlap the lining.

34. Hand or machine sew the opening closed.

35. To insert the notebook, Open the cover on one side and insert it under the corresponding flap. Repeat on the other side.

And you’re finished, well done!

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What is Vlieseline Decovil Interlining?

by Kellie Rose | May 14, 2021 | Fabric Guides, Haberdashery Guides, My Makes, Product Guides, Tutorials

Have you heard of Vlieseline Decovil? Wondering what this interlining can be used for? Our product guide will explain what Decovil Interlining is, how to apply it, and what projects it’s best suited for.

Vlieseline have a HUGE range of interlinings & interfacings that can add structure to your projects (you can explore the full range of Vlieseline products in our online haberdashery here) .

Say hello to Vlieseline Decovil!

Decovil is part of the Vlieseline Creative Range and it’s an interlining which adds amazing structure & strength to projects, whilst keeping your project light, pliable & crisp.

It feels like leather to the touch, but it has the added bonus that it’s easier to sew than leather – happy days!

Decovil Interlining

One side of Decovil is shiny and the other side is matt. The shiny side is adhesive and can be adhered onto fabric using an iron & a damp cloth – this is super handy so you don’t have to sew in the Decovil to your fabric.

Decovil is available in 2 weight options

Decovil I is the “original” Decovil interfacing- it’s thicker and heavier. Great for things like bag bottoms, storage boxes, zipper pouches etc…

Decovil Light, as the name suggests, is a lighter weight & thinner version of the original Decovil. It’s also softer.

Which to choose? Depending on your project and desired outcome but if, for example, you were making a bag you might choose to use Decovil I for the main body of your bag but for the bag handles choose Decovil I Light because you have a lot of layers to sew through.

Check out this little video which will hopefully give you an idea about how Decovil handles and moves

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The Benefits of Decovil Interlining

We’re a little bit in love with Decovil here at Plush Addict! Here’s some reasons why

It’s resistant to tearing and bending
Decovil gives structure
Gives a smooth, sleek finish
It’s Easy to shape
Decovil doesn’t crease easily – and if it does, it’s easy to restore
Helps reduce fraying
Adds durability to your project
Decovil can be pierced
It sews easily
Has a fusible coating on one side
It’s washable at 30 degrees

Check out our The Ultimate Vlieseline At-A-Glance Guide for more info on Vliseline’s Interfacings

When To Use Decovil

Decovil is really versatile but to give you an idea, you can use it in projects such as

Placemats
Bags
Belts
Book & Notebook Covers
Zipper Pouches
Hats
Interior decorations
Small baskets

Decovil also makes a great alternative to wadding if you’re making placemats and gives a smooth and sleek look to the finished item. Check out our video:

Check out the suggestions on the Vlieseline site below for some free projects using Decovil

How to apply Decovil

It’s a cinch! Applying Decovil will be familiar – it’s very similar to applying other types of interlining and interfacing:

Spread a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over an ironing board
Place your outer fabric right side down
Position the Decovil shiny side down so it is on top of the wrong side of your fabric
Cover with a damp cloth and press for roughly 6 seconds
Allow the adhesive to cool and cure for a minimum of 30 minutes to allow the adhesive to stick properly

Grab a cheeky 10% discount on your next Decovil purchase with DECOVIL10. One time use per customer.

Projects Ideas Using Decovil

Check out our Free notebook project which uses Decovil here

The Vlieseline Blog has some fab & FREE tutorials using the Decovil range.

Have a nosy at:

On The Go Multi Bag free project using Decovil from Vlieseline

Slippers free project using Decovil from Vlieseline

A Doll’s House free project using Decovil from Vlieseline

Clam Shell Wedding Favours free project using Decovil from Vlieseline

Other Useful Info About Vlieseline Decovil

If you’re not planning on laundering your project, Decovil can be painted! Use watered down acrylic paint and be sure to paint on the matt side

Decovil can also be painted using fabric dye on the adhesive (shiny) side. Watch out here though – the nature of the fibres may well cause dye to spread from the point where it is applied. Make sure you test before hand…

Want to try Decovil for the first time?

Grab a cheeky 10% discount on your next Decovil purchase with DECOVIL10. One time use per customer.

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A Guide To Fat Quarters

by Kellie Rose | May 10, 2021 | Fabric, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, My Makes, Product Guides, Tutorials

So you see a new fabric collection and you’re like…

I LOVE IT

…but how much of it do I need? Can I afford them all? I can’t possibly choose!

Oh yeah, we totally get you.

This is why we offer fat quarter bundles so you can love it, make it & keep it!

Watch our video then check out the written guide below for the full fat-quarter lowdown!

What is a fat quarter?

You might have seen FQ on a tutorial and you’re like… what?!

FQ stands for fat quarter, which is a piece of pre-cut fabric that is made by cutting half a metre of the full fabric width from the bolt and then cut in half vertically, hence ‘quarters’. Most quilting fabrics are 44”/110cm wide, which makes fat quarters around 50cm x 55cm.

Are all fat quarters the same?

Due to the term ‘fat quarter’ being all about the width, you may find some are different. This especially applies to American fat quarters, as they cut by the yard, which means you’ll find American fat quarters are a little shorter at around 56cm x 46cm.

What size is a fat quarter?

The term ‘fat’ quarter refers to how it’s cut. Technically it is a quarter of a metre, however if you asked for a quarter of a metre at a fabric shop, they would probably cut as a strip (known as a long quarter) like this:

A fat quarter cut is a square shape which means you’re getting more scope to make wider things out of it, even though it’s technically the same surface area.

You may find that some fabrics have a wider width, such as our PUL and Bamboo Velour. We sell this by the fat quarter, however the width can be up to 150cm, so you would get a very generous amount of fabric!

What projects can I make with fat quarters?

A fat quarter is definitely small but mighty in the sewing world. There are tons of projects you can make! Not only are they great for quilters and those applique fans out there you could also make cushions, tote bags, pencil cases, tablet covers, baskets, bibs and so much more.

We have lots of tutorials on our blog which you could make with fat quarters including:

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Where can I buy fat quarters?

Right here at Plush Addict! We sell quilting collections in fat quarter bundles and you can buy any of our fabrics as a fat quarter, as they are cut bespoke for you when you order. We even have a colour matching service, just pop in the order notes which fabrics you’d like us to colour match and we’ll check for you.

Did you learn a lot from this blog? We’d love to hear from you in the comments!

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A Beginners Guide to KAM Snaps

by Kellie Rose | May 8, 2021 | Haberdashery Guides, Project Ideas, Tutorials

Looking for a quick and easy fastening? We have put together this super handy beginners guide to all things KAM snaps!

What are KAM Snaps?

KAM snaps are high quality plastic fasteners, the perfect alternative to sew on buttons and metal snaps. They are made from polyacetal resin which is extremely strong and Oekotex certified, which means they’re safe for children’s clothing. They come in different sizes. In addition, there are lots of different colours to match all kinds of fabrics and projects.

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Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

What do we need to apply KAM snaps?

KAM Snaps do not require any sewing and are applied with a snap setting tool. The most popular are the KAM pliers, which come with different die sets to suit all KAM snap sizes, an adjusting screwdriver, a rod for different fitting scenarios and a plastic-handled awl.

The pliers are great for light use. However if you think you’ll get hooked and will be fitting lots of plastic snaps, we’d recommend the KAM press.

What is a KAM press?

A KAM press is a professional snap press, which is compatible with all KAM snap shapes and sizes. It is a small but mighty desktop press and the die sets for the different size KAM snaps can be swapped and changed without any tools. Moreover, if you’re looking to attach lots of KAM snaps with a snug professional finish, this is the one to go for.

How to use KAM snap pliers

Installing KAM snaps is easy and super quick. You will need 2 KAM snap caps, 1 stud (male) and 2 sockets (female).

Step 1: Pierce your fabric with an awl (Don’t worry, you get one of these included with your plier kit!)

Step 2: Place the point of one of the caps through the hole and place the male stud on top.

Step 3: Place in the KAM pliers making sure the cap is flush in the black sunken dish and squeeze the pliers well.

Step 4: Pierce through the other side of the fabric with the awl.

Step 5: Repeat steps 2 and 3 with the female part.

Woohoo! You have an attached KAM snap!

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Can you remove KAM snaps?

Yes you can! Over on the website we sell KAM snap removal pliers which are designed to cleanly remove KAM snaps from your projects. This is great if you want to reuse the KAM snaps on a project a little one has grown out of or maybe you’re upcycling!

How to remove KAM snaps

Removing KAM snaps is really quick and easy. Furthermore, with the removal pliers you get the die sets to remove both the female and male sides of the snap.