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A Guide To Bias Binding

A Guide To Bias Binding

Reading Time: 8 Minutes

Bias binding is a seam-stars best friend! 

Have you ever used it before? 

We use it ALL the time in our in-house projects and everyday sewing, it’s used to cover those not so pretty raw edges and gives a project a neat finish.

As well as being available in multiple colours adding a dash of excitement to your project!

Did you know you can use bias binding on a range of different materials and projects?

It’s suitable to use on garments, quilts, cushions and much more and come in various different materials too!

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Types Of Bias Binding

You can find different colours of bias binding ranging from white to blue, to red to pink to black to match any fabric colour! We stock 144 colours of our 20mm bias binding tape!

As well as different colours, bias binding tape also comes in different materials such as cotton, polycotton, metallic, patterned, satin, velvet and leatherette suitable for most types of projects.

And if you’re still on the fence about using this bias tape for your sewing projects this might just sway you… you can get different types of bias binding! There’s plain, piping, stretch, lace edge, iron on and blanket bias binding!

Making your own bias binding is also an alternative to buying it ready made and can often work out much cheaper! We’ll go into detail further on in the guide on how to make your own bias binding.

What’s The Difference Between Single Fold And Double Fold Bias Binding?

We’ll also go over the different types of bias binding. 

There’s 2 main types, single and double bias tape and you can differentiate both by the way they fold up. 

Single fold tape has both edges folded towards the middle, creating a fold down each side of the bias tape.. 

Whereas double fold is similar to a single fold bias binding, but with an added extra fold in the centre of the bias. 

All bias binding is cut at a 45-degree angle to allow for stretch and use on project corners! 

So let’s get into the guide, we’ll go over how to make bias binding, how to attach bias binding, how to sew bias binding corners and more!

How To Make Bias Binding

Knowing how to make bias binding (also known as bias tape) is a life-long skill for any sewist!

The advantages of making handmade bias binding tape are that you can decide on the exact width and pattern that you want, it can also be more cost effective saving you money by using fabrics from your stash.

Plus you can match it perfectly with your project by using the same fabric!

We’d recommend investing in a bias making tool, they’re worth the money and can save so much time. However they come in various different sizes so make sure you choose the correct size for your project.

Want to learn how to make and how to cut your own bias binding tape? Read on!

Make Your Own Bias Binding Step-by-Step

Step 1: Take your piece of fabric

Step 2: Take the top right-hand edge to meet the bottom edge creating a triangle and press.

Step 3: Use a ruler and fabric marker to draw strips parallel to the fold. If you are using a bias tool.

Step 4: Cut the strips using fabric scissors or a rotary cutter.

Step 5: Overlap the ends of two strips at a 90-degree angle and pin in place.

Step 6: Stitch together and press back the seams. Trim the seam edges that overhang. Continue to piece all your strips together in this way until you have enough to go around the edge of your project.

Ways To Fold Your Binding

Option 1: Use a bias binding maker

Once you have all your strips joined, feed one end of the strip into the wide end of the maker.

Next, pull the strip out of the narrow end of the bias binding maker.

Move the maker along with the strip, pressing it with a hot iron as you go.

When finished, wind the bias binding tape around some strong card to keep it flat and pressed.

Option 2: If you don’t have a binder maker.

If you don’t have a tool, you can press by hand or use a pin on your ironing board as a guide.

To use the pin method, use a fabric marker to mark two points half the width of your fabric strip.

Insert a pin between these marks.

Pass the strip under the pin pressing with an iron as you go.

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How To Attach Bias Binding

Curves

Applying and sewing bias binding around curves may seem daunting at first but it isn’t as difficult as you might think.

Follow our step by step bias binding tutorial to learn how to sew bias binding around curves and how to attach bias binding to a project.

Applying Bias Binding Step-by-Step

Step 1: Unfold the bias tape and line up the edge with the edge of your fabric.

Make sure your right sides are facing each other and pin in place.

Step 2: You will get some puckering but don’t worry about that. Slowly stitch along the fold line.

Step 3: Fold the bias tape over to the back.

Step 4: Pin or clip in place. If the binding doesn’t quite sit where you want it, trim the seam allowance slightly.

Step 5: You can topstitch the binding in place, but we recommend hand sewing it so there is no stitch line on the front.

You can also clip the seam allowance if you need to along the curve to remove the bulk.

Step 6: Give the binding a good press with the iron.

How To Mitre A Corner with Bias Binding

Although you might find mitred corners hard at first, following the method below takes all the confusion out!

All it takes is just a bit of practice.

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Mitre A Corner With Bias Binding Step-by-Step

Step 1: Unfold the bias tape and line up the edge with the edge of your fabric.

Make sure your right sides are facing each other and pinned in place.

Step 2: Leave 2 or 3cm before you sew.

This will form an overlap at the end. Stitch along the fold line.

When you get to the end, stop about 6mm before the fabric edge.

Step 3: Move your needle up and fold the bias tape up at a 90 degree angle and fold back down, this will give you a diagonal 45 degree angle at the corner.

Pin in place.

Step 4: Stitch all the way along the fold line.

Repeat these steps at every corner.

When you get to the end, you can cut your tape but leave enough to overlap.

Step 5: Fold the bias tape over to the back.

Pin or clip the binding in place.

Step 6: If the binding doesn’t quite sit where you want it, you can trim it slightly.

When it comes to corners, fold in one side, then the other and if the sides are nice and even, you should get a nice, neat 45-degree corner.

Step 7: You can topstitch the binding in place, but we recommend hand sewing it so there is no stitch line on the front.

You can also clip the seam allowance if you need to along the curve to remove the bulk.

Step 8: Give the binding a good press with the iron.

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Ready Made Bias Binding

Prefer to buy ready made bias binding?

We’ve got it!

There’s definitely advantages to buying pre-made bias binding vs learning how to make bias binding. It can save you time and also fabric!

Here at Plush Addict, we’re not only a fabric store but we’re also an online haberdashery! We stock a wide variety of bias binding in lots of finishes and sizes.

Our most versatile ready-made bias binding is made from polycotton in 13mm, 20mm, 25mm, 27mm and 50mm. This is the one we would recommend if you have never used ready made bias binding before.

If you’re looking for something bolder, we sell metallic, patterned and decorative bias binding, as well different textures and fabrics such as satin, velvet and leatherette.

We also have several ranges of piping bias to create a different finish, which is great for decorative projects such as cushions and detailing on clothes.

Did you find this guide helpful? Let us know in the comments below and tag us @PlushAddict we’d love to see how you used bias tape in your projects!

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We hope you found this tutorial useful! Let us know how you get along in the comments below.

Christmas Bow Cushion – Beginner Friendly Project

Christmas Bow Cushion – Beginner Friendly Project

Learn how to sew a Christmas bow cushion with this beginner friendly tutorial. It’s that time of year again… yup… we’re doing Christmas In July!

What part of decorating is your favourite? Is it the lights or the table or the front porch with a real life Santa Klaus? Whatever floats your boat, go with it! But you can’t possibly decorate without some pretty Christmas cushions… right?

That’s exactly why we’re bringing you our latest tutorial! Learn how to sew a Christmas bow cushion featuring Makower’s Santa Express & Yappy! collections.

An easy to follow and beginner friendly tutorial, you can brush up on skills such as using woven interfacing to give fabric more structure and sewing a bow from scratch.

We’ve also got a Christmas In July offer going, get 3 FREE projects and 10% OFF with any purchase from the Christmas shop!

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A sewing project for:  Beginner Seam Star

Finished dimensions – 16” square

Estimated sewing time – 2-3 hours

Important Notes:

  • ½” (1cm) seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise directed.
  • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
  • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice

Materials Will Need:

ItemAmountWe used
Fabric A:Quilting Cotton for Main Cushion0.5mMakower – Santa Express – Geometric Green Metallic
Fabric B:Quilting Cotton for Ribbon & Bow detail0.25mMakower – Santa Express – Geometric Red Metallic
Lightweight Low Loft  Fusible Fleece0.5mVlieseline Iron-on fusible Low Loft Fleece H630
Woven Interfacing
(Grab a cheeky 10% discount off your next Fusible Woven Interfacing purchase with WOVEN10 One time use per customer.)
0.5mVlieseline Cotton Woven Interlining – Medium G700 – White – 1m x 90cm
16” Cushion PadOneDuck Feather Square Cushion Pad 16″ / 40.5cm

Sewing Kit You Will Need:

Make it easier with: Needle Grippers – these are a great help turning a long fabric tube

Feeling inspired?

Want to access the full tutorial?

Go shopping in our Christmas shop and save 10% until 18th July 2021! 

When checking out your basket, don’t forget to click the ‘Sign up the Newsletter’ box to make sure you get your 3 FREE projects to get you started!

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials, guides and projects!

Reusable Fabric Gift Tags

Reusable Fabric Gift Tags

This year you have plenty of time to make up these reusable fabric gift tags you can bring out year after year, not only saving you time & money BUT also lots of waste that just ends up in landfill. Because here at Plush Addict, we are always looking for ways to be kinder to the planet. Christmas will be here before you know it!

Just scribble the name in chalk or chalk pen and then wipe it off and reuse them year after year!

If you prefer to follow along with written instructions, these are included with the reusable fabric gift tags pattern which you can download here

To make these fabulous tags, you will need…

The sewing kit you will need for this reusable fabric gift tag projects:

 

Please leave us a comment if you made this! We’d love to hear how you got on…

How to make reusable Christmas bags: Sewing Tutorial

How to make reusable Christmas bags: Sewing Tutorial

How will you be wrapping your Christmas gifts this year? Will you be on ‘bin bag duty’ again collecting all of the used wrapping paper & throwing a glitter & foil mountain out to landfill? Or will you be getting your Christmas All Wrapped Up with Reusable reusable Christmas bags tutorial?

Making beautiful reusable fabric gift bags and tags means you can to keep them years to come!

All the effort you put in making these will come back to you – we promise! Make these and be your future friend next year when your gift wrapping will be complete in a fraction of the time – whoop!

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We are super excited to share with you this fabulous eco-conscious way of gifting your loved ones this year. Our reusable Christmas bags gift bags have three different sized bags you can create, here’s what you’ll need for each one…

Small – Finished Dimensions (Approx):

H20cm x W23cm x D6cm // H8” x W9” x D2½ ”

AmountWe used
Main Fabric A1FQ Cotton FabricSanta Express: Presents by Makower
Fabric B For Drawstring Channel10cm x 50cm4” x 20”Santa Express: Snowball Spot Green Metallic by Makower
Ribbon or Cord60cm4mm Braided Cord White

 

Medium – Finished Dimensions (Approx):

H31cm x W33cm x D11cm // H12” x W13” x D4 ½  ”

AmountWe used
Main Fabric A1FQ Cotton Fabric
Fabric B For Drawstring Channel10cm x 50cm4” x 20”
Ribbon or Cord4mm Braided Cord

Large – Finished Dimensions (Approx):

H44cm x W38cm x D15cm // H17” x W15” x D6”

AmountWe used
Main Fabric A50cm  Cotton Fabric
Fabric B For Drawstring Channel10cm x 50cm4” x 20”
Ribbon or Cord4mm Braided Cord

To match, we have put together a gorgeous gift tag which you can personalise every year as it features chalk cloth! Check out our blog for this here.

The sewing kit you will need for both projects:

To get the free patterns and tutorials, just purchase anything from our Christmas Shop (which is currently 10% off until 18th July 2021!) and they’ll be pinged straight to your inbox!

All we ask is that you tick the little ‘newsletter’ box at the checkout stage so we have permission to email you. Not only will you get the tutorial to make the gift bag and tag, you’ll get a full tutorial on how to make a bow cushion and a personalised santa sack!

Personalised Santa Sack Tutorial with Free Templates

Do you want to add some extra special touches to your Christmas makes this year? Why not make that wish list a little longer with this Santa sack; pre-filled, it will save Santa a fair bit of his precious time when he visits on Christmas Eve. And to avoid confusion, it’s personalised with the recipient’s name! Read on for our Personalised Santa Sack Tutorial!

This beginner-friendly sewing tutorial has robust French seams, appliqued bunting with free alphabet templates to add personalisation so you’ll learn to use Bondaweb & applique too!

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Personalised Santa Sack Tutorial

Personalised Santa Sack Tutorial

The main body of this Santa sack is made from Calico fabric which is economical and a great blank canvas for your Christmas prints. The French seams give an elegant and robust finish and mean you don’t need an overlocker for this project

The personalization comes from appliqued letter on the bunting meaning you can personalise with any name whatsoever!

You can request a copy of the free applique templates & tutorial here

Personalised Santa Sack tutorial with free applique letters

For the Personalised Santa Sack Tutorial You will need:

ItemAmountWe used
A copy of the templates & PDF instructionsRequest here
Fabric A Quilting Weight Cotton for Main Sack & tie  1mMedium weight Calico
Fabric B Quilting Weight Cotton for Contrast Front Panel0.5mDashwood Studio Festive friends: blocks
Fabric(s) C Quilting Weight Cotton for Bunting FlagsDepends on the number of flags – a 13x15cm piece will yield 2 flag trianglesForest Friends collection
Fabric D Scraps Quilting Weight Cotton for LetteringDepends on the number of letters. We used scrapsRobert Kaufman – Kona solids: White
Bondaweb1 packBondaweb
16mm Ribbon or trim for the bunting “String”1mBerisfords: Spring green
ThreadGutermann colour 38

Important Notes

  • 1.5cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
  • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
  • Prepare your fabrics as per the manufacturer’s care advice.

Disclaimer: Strangulation hazard: This item is intended for decorative purposes only and is not a toy. Children must be supervised at all times.

Personalised Santa Sack Tutorial

  1. Cut your fabrics for the main sack:

From Fabric A for Main Sack & Tie cut  

  • 1 x 63×60.5cm Front panel*
  • 1 x 63×93.5cm Back panel*
  • 2 x 1mx10cm Tie Pieces

*63cm measurement is the width of the sack.

From Fabric B the Contrast Fabric :

  • 63x36cm Front panel*
  • 19×9.5 cm and 107×9.5cm Channel pieces

*63cm measurement is the width of the sack.

A note on cutting the front contrast panel: We have given exact measurements for this panel. If you are using the same fabric that we did (Dashwood Studio Festive friends: blocks) please ensure you are cutting at the correct place to make sure you don’t cut a “block” in half!

The front panel is applied using a French Seam. The total seam allowance for the top of the panel piece is 1.5cm so ensure you’re cutting 1.5cm above

Assemble the front panel with French seams

You can check out our dedicated tutorial on French Seams for more detailed photos if you need them

2. Sew the 2 front panels together with a French seam: With wrong sides together, pin the top edge of the contrast front panel to the bottom edge of the calico front panel (match the 63cm edges) ensuring the print is the correct way if you are using a directional fabric.

3. Sew together with a 5mm seam allowance

4. Press the seam allowances to one side, trim any loose threads

5. Fold along the seam to bring the 2 fabrics right sides together & press

6. Pin then sew with a 1cm seam allowance. You have sewn a French Seam, yay!

7. Press the seam allowance toward the contrast fabric & top stitch

 

Make appliqué bunting

If you need more photos for making this bunting please refer to this post – the method is the same

8. Print off the bunting template & letters supplied. Use the 1” test square to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check print settings. Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the ‘fit to page’ option.

9. Trace the required lettering and number of flags, onto the smooth side of the Bondaweb using a pencil. The letters are mirror images – this is correct.

10. Rough cut around each shape on the Bondaweb, leaving a small border

11. Spread a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over an ironing board

12. Lay the lettering fabric wrong side up on the ironing board

13. Place the Bondaweb shapes on top of the fabric rough side down, following the fabric grain

14. Lay a smooth-surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over the top and press each letter for roughly 5 seconds, heat setting 2, no steam.

15. Wait around 30 minutes for the Bondaweb to cool and the glue to set

16. Cut out each bonded letter shape accurately. Cutting small details is often easier with fine scissors or a craft knife and cutting mat.

17. Position the flag triangles onto the front panel, spanning the calico front panel as preferred. Leave 22cm clearance at the top for the tie channel etc. and take into account the 1.5cm seam allowance each side when positioning the flags. For longer names you may need to “snake” your flags.

If you would prefer smaller flags/ letter please print off the templates at a reduced size. This will make cutting out the letters a bit trickier though. 

If you have a digital cutting machine you can use this file to cut out the flags & letters.

18. One at a time, peel the backing paper off each triangle and return to its position on the front panel

19.  Place the panel right side up on the covered ironing board. Lay a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over the top of the flags

20. Dampen the cover fabric using the iron’s spray setting and press over each flag for roughly 10 seconds, heat setting 3

21. Allow around 30 minutes for the Bondaweb to cool and the glue to cure

22. Position the letters on their corresponding triangles

23. Follow steps 18. to 21. to apply the letters

24. To secure the letter on to the flags sew around the edge of each flag and letter, including any cut out elements (for example; the centre of an A), 2mm from the edge. Use a contrasting thread to ensure the letters stand out, if required. 

Hand-sewn blanket stitch or machine zig-zag stitch overlapping the edge of the letter and the surrounding fabric can also be used (length 0.5 to 1, width 3 to 4 depending on the finish required)

25. Position and pin the grosgrain ribbon, connecting the top of the triangles

26. Sew along the top and the bottom of the ribbon, tight to the edge, to secure. To allow the ribbon to curve, sew along the outermost edge first then sew small pleats to remove any excess from the inner edge

Press the top hem

27. Turn over and press the top 2cm of fabric on both the front and back panel pieces

28. Turn the raw edge under to reach the crease and press again to create a double-folded hem

 

Assemble the sack with French seams

 

29. Align the front and back panels wrong sides together and pin the bottom edge

30. Sew with a 5mm seam allowance

31. Press the seam open with the seam allowance to one side, trim any loose threads

32. Fold along the seam to bring the 2 fabrics right sides together and press

33. Pin then sew with a 1cm seam allowance

34. Press the seam open with the seam allowance to one side

35. Repeat steps 29. to 34. for the side seams, turning the 2 corners of the 1st seam allowance and sewing over the ends with the 1cm seam

36. Turn the sack out the right way

37. Pin the hem then sew along the innermost crease, 2mm from the edge

Sew the tie

38. Align and pin the two short ends of the tie pieces

39. Sew with a 1cm seam allowance

40. Fold the tie in half lengthways, ensuring the join seam allowance is on the outside

41. At each end of the tie fold the corner up to form a 45 degree angle then cut along the crease

42. Sew along the edge of the tie leaving a 10cm turning gap toward the centre. Sew with a 1 cm seam allowance and continue along the trimmed edges.

43. Clip the corners, turn the tie out the right way and press

44. Top stitch around the edges of the tie 2mm from the edge

Sew the drawstring channel

45. Pin the 2 channel pieces right sides together along the short edge and sew with a 1cm seam allowance

46. Press the seam allowances open

47. With the fabric right side down, turn over and press 1cm of fabric along the 2 long edges

48. At each end of the channel turn over and press 2cm of fabric

49. Turn the raw edge under to reach the crease and press again to create a hem

50. Sew along the inner crease edge of each pressed hem to secure

51. Position the channel with the top edge 10cm from the top of the sack and the hems either side of the right side seam

52. Pin and sew along the top edge of the channel only, 2mm from the edge

53. Lift the lower edge of the channel and tuck the tie underneath. Ensure the tie is close to the sewn edge and the tie ends extend from the hemmed opening in the channel

54. Pin and sew along the bottom of the channel, 2mm from the edge

55. Thread the tie through the channel

And you’re all done!

If you enjoyed this tutorial then please leave us a comment… we love to hear from you!

Christmas Coaster DIY – Speedy Make!

Christmas Coaster DIY – Speedy Make!

We’re getting into the party spirit with this Christmas project and thinking about Christmas entertaining with a pretty table. Learn how to make this DIY Christmas coaster.

To help protect your table and carry your Christmas theme through to the lounge we have created these clever Christmas coasters.

They are incredibly quick to make and so pretty. Furthermore, they’re sure to impress your guests.

A simple sewing project for beginners

Rotary cutter project

This Christmas coaster project is ideal if you’re getting to grips with your rotary cutter and quilting ruler; with the added bonus

Moreover, using a rotary cutter makes this quick make, even quicker.

Find our selection of rulers and cutting mats here and rotary cutters here.

You Will Need:

*this is enough to make 4 coasters, for fussy cutting/ directional prints, allow more.

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Resources

If you’re looking to co-ordinate your Christmas table check out these tutorials:

Looking to have a more sustainable Christmas? Our reusable crackers can be used time and time again without losing their snap. Find the tutorial here.

New to woven interlining? Check out our product guide here, to discover why we love it!

Important Notes

¼” seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.

Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice.

Step-By-Step Instructions

Step 1:

For each coaster: Cut out the fabrics as follows

  • Fabric A: 3 x 5” squares of front/ backing fabric
  • Fabric B: 2 x 5” squares of contrast fabric of
  • 1 x 4.5” square of woven interlining

Step 2:

Apply the interlining to the reverse of the backing fabric with a ¼” border around the edge.

For detailed instructions on using woven interlining  check out our Guide here.

Step 3:

Fold and press the other 4 squares in half to form 4 rectangles.

Step 4:

Place the backing piece right side up, then 1 at a time, position the folded squares on top:

  • Starting on the right, align the raw edges of a rectangle with those of the backing. The folded edge will sit along the centre of the backing piece. For fussy cutting, ensure the chosen element is right side down
  • Place the next rectangle along the bottom of the backing, raw edges aligned, overlapping the piece to the right, folded edge to the centre
  • Place a rectangle on the left, raw edges aligned, folded edge to the centre, overlapping the bottom piece
  • Place the final rectangle at the top, raw edges aligned, folded edge to the centre
  • Tuck the right side of the final rectangle under the top of the rectangle on the right to interlock them all together

Step 5:

Clip the pieces in place then sew around the 4 sides.

Step 6:

Clip the corners.

Step 7:

Turn the coaster out the right way, opening the rectangles out from the centre point.

Step 8:

press to finish.

 

And you’re finished, well done!

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We hope you found this tutorial useful!

Let us know how you get along in the comments below.