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How To Make A Zippered Money Apron

How To Make A Zippered Money Apron

by | Jan 15, 2015 | My Makes, Tutorials

As I’ve previously mentioned we’re going on the road which of course means there’s been a ton of things to think about and organise, one of which is what would we do  with money on the day. If you follow me on Instagram then you will have seen me whip up some of these aprons a few weeks ago and I’m really please with how they’ve turned out. I had a few criteria, I wanted them to have a zip, I wanted a pocket for my phone and I wanted to make them from denim so they were super durable and wouldn’t need any kind of interfacing and most importantly so the Plush Boys would be happy to wear them. I didn’t want any kind of seam at the bottom of the apron to eliminate bulk and save myself a step. You could equally use 2 smaller pieces of fabric for the aprons and sew at the bottom but for some reason I was quite set on not having a bottom seam (maybe I am worried all of my money might fall out!) These aprons would be perfect for you to use at a craft fair if you have any coming up and will keep all your pennies safe and secure.

This apron is quite generous in size because a) I have a fat tummy and b) Joseph and Jon (Mr Plush) who will also be sporting these are men, and men need bigger things. Fact. I would suggest holding up a piece of fabric where you’d like the apron to sit and measuring it to get a size which suits you.

You will need

Step 1: Prepare Your Main Fabric

Cut and press your main fabric as detailed below. Overlock/ serge the edges (optional).

Step 2: Add embellishment (optional)

I decided to embroider our shop logo on to the front of the apron on the right hand side. This is entirely optional, but lovely! I placed the centre of the design (which measures 10 x 6cm) as below

Step 3: Add inside pocket

With RST (right sides together) stitch your 2 pockets pieces together and leave a turning gap of a couple of inches. Once sewn clip the corners.

Turn to the right side and press (a chopstick is very handy for poking out all of the seams)

 

Top stitch the top of the pocket only (see my top stitching tips here)

Pin your pocket on to the apron where you’d like the inside pocket to sit and stitch around 3 sides.

Step 4: Add the Zipper

Place the zip face down on to the right side of the fabric and pin/ clip (Wonder Clips are awesome for this). Think about which side you want the zip pull when closed (I placed it on the left as I’m right handed)

Stitch using your zipper foot. Once stitched press the fabric flat making sure the zipper tape is flat too.

Top stitch along the zipper using a longer stitch length (I used 3mm)

Repeat for the other side

Press your apron

Step 5: Make and Insert The Ties

Take your 3″ strips of fabric and press in half length ways. Then fold each edge to align with the centre you’ve just pressed and press again. You should have 3 pressed lines.

Fold in the 2 edges to the centre and then fold in half again. Clip.

Stitch the open side closed using a longer stitch length, I used 3.5mm as there’s 4 layers of denim here. Repeat on the other long side.

** Note that as my ties are the full width of the fabric the selvedges are at the end of each of my ties. I liked the tufty look so left them as they were but you might want to fold your ends in first if you want to conceal them)

To insert your ties turn your apron inside out and re-press along the top and bottom.

Insert your ties approx. 1″ from the top of the apron and clip/ pin. Sew along the sides with a  1/2″ seam re-inforcing the stitching 3 times or so over the ties and zip.

Repeat for the other side remembering to leave the zip partly open so you can turn your apron.

Step 6: Create the Divider Pockets

Turn your apron to the right side and press. Fold your apron in half and press again to mark the half way point to make your divider pockets. Mark the line with a fabric marker.

Sew along your marked line stitching through all the layers from the bottom of the apron to the zip.

You’re done! Congrats!

The darker denim apron is mine and I couldn’t resist inserting a pop of colour at the zip and I managed to use some Echino stag scraps I’ve been holding on to for ages for my inside pockets. Love him!

I hope this is helpful. If you make one please post to our Facebook, Twitter or Instagram pages and tag us @plushaddict, thanks!

Here we are modelling after the event. I can report that they all held up well, and will see their next outing at Duxford Quilt Show!

(Grab a cheeky 10% discount off your next Zip purchase with ZIPPEDUP10 One time use per customer.)

DIY Make Up Bag: Free pattern and tutorial

DIY Make Up Bag: Free pattern and tutorial

by | Nov 4, 2014 | My Makes, Tutorials

We wanted to spoil you with a little sewing wizardry in this tutorial; this handy make up bag is just the right size for the essentials and conveniently fits in a handbag. Make one for yourself or as a gift to make someone a smile.

And the magic you ask – Odicoat! This clever gel gives fabrics a waterproof coating that is machine washable.

Then for an extra flourish we’ve gone with a lace edged zip; we’re crazy about the way they take projects to another level. Once you get to grips with them you’ll be adding them to everything too!

Skill level: Intermediate Seam-Star

You will learn

  • How to apply ODIF Odicoat
  • How to insert a lace edge zip

You will need

If you don’t fancy making your own waterproof fabric, check out our guide to ready made options here

We used

Grab your DIY Makeup Bag Pattern!

Click the button below to get the pattern emailed straight to your inbox.

Send Me The Make Up BAG PATTERN

Important notes

1.5 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 3 unless otherwise stated.

Pre-wash your fabrics

Use clips or pin within the seam allowance – pin holes will remain visible.

If your machine is sticking to the Odicoat these tips may help:

  • Try a Teflon or roller foot, or a strip of Scotch ‘magic tape’ stuck to the bottom of a standard foot
  • Sew over tissue paper over the side that is slipping, and tear it away after.
  • Use an 80/12 needle

Disclaimer

  • The finished purse is water resistant not waterproof.
  • Fabrics coated with Odicoat should only be washed at 30 degrees.

How To Use ODIF Odicoat

1. Before cutting, in case of shrinkage, apply the Odicoat to the right side of the lining fabric: Place your fabric right side up on a covered surface (greaseproof or plastic sheeting are ideal)

2. Spread a thin layer of Odicoat onto the fabric using the card provided; start from one corner and work outwards. Go back over the fabric with the card spreading out any thick patches/ streaks. Avoid moving the fabric until it is dry to prevent Odicoat getting onto the wrong side.

3. Wait until the Odicoat is touch dry (20 to 30 minutes) then apply a second coat. A third coat can be applied if required. Allow 24 hours for the Odicoat to cure fully.

Print the pattern

Print the pattern and cut it out. You can request the pattern is emailed to you here

4. Use the 1” test square to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check print settings. Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the ‘fit to page’ option.

5. Using the pattern piece cut out the following:

  • 2 pieces Outer fabric
  • 2 pieces Lining fabric
  • 2 pieces Interlining

6. Apply the interlining to the wrong side of the outer fabric

7. Align one outer & one lining piece right sides together. Clip top edges together (see pattern).

8. Sew the top edge then press the seam allowance toward the lining.

9. Understitch along the edge of the seam allowance on the lining side, sewing approx. 2mm from the seamline.

10. Fold the panel along the seamline then cover and press.

11. Repeat steps 7. to 10. for the other outer and lining pieces.

Inserting The Lace Edge Zip

12. Check the zip works.

13. Open one panel out flat and align the zipper teeth next to the seamline on the lining side

14. Tape the zip in place.

15. Sew the zip using a zipper foot just above the lace cut outs.

16. Refold the panel along the pressed seam line

17. Repeat steps 13. to 16. for the other panel ensuring the 2 sides line up.

18. Check the zip then leave the pull halfway.

19. Open out the panels bringing the outer and lining fabrics right sides together and clip the bottom edges.

20. Align the zip ends and clip them together.

21. Clip the 2 sides, leaving the cut out corners unclipped.

22. Sew both sides and bottom edges leaving a 10cm turning gap in the lining.

23. One at a time open out the corners, align the side and base seam lines with the seam allowances open.

24. Align the edges, then clip and sew them together.

25. Turn the purse out the right way.

26. Clip and sew the gap in the lining closed: either machine straight stitch or hand sew with ladder stitch

And you’re done! Congrats!

We hope you found this tutorial useful!

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials!

Grab your DIY Makeup Bag Pattern!

Click the button below to download the pattern.

Send Me The Make Up BAG PATTERN

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials. Please tag us @PlushAddict on your fave social media channel… we’d love to see your makes!

Tutorial : DIY Make Up Bag With a Pretty Lace Edge Zip

Tutorial : DIY Make Up Bag With a Pretty Lace Edge Zip

by | Nov 4, 2014 | Fabric Guides, My Makes, Tutorials

We wanted to spoil you with a little sewing wizardry in this tutorial; this handy make up bag is just the right size for the essentials and conveniently fits in a handbag. Make one for yourself or as a gift to make someone a smile.

And the magic you ask – Odicoat! This clever gel gives fabrics a waterproof coating that is machine washable!

Grab a cheeky 10% discount off your next Odicoat order with WATERPROOFME10 One time use per customer.

Then for an extra flourish we’ve gone with a lace edged zip; we’re crazy about the way they take projects to another level. Once you get to grips with them you’ll be adding them to everything too!

(more…)
How To Restore Plush (Minky) Remnants

How To Restore Plush (Minky) Remnants

by | Jun 11, 2014 | Discount Fabric, Fabric, Fabric Guides, Fabric Remnants, Minky Fabric, Tutorials

Plush, minky, cuddle fabric… whatever you like to call it! (For an update on why we don’t call the fabric “minky” in the UK like the rest of the world does see this post) There’s no mistaking the lusciousness that started me on the road to our online shop. The trouble is (for us) the last 50cm-75cm of every bolt we have can only be sold as a fabric remnant. The pile near to the centre of the bolt gets brushed up the wrong way and crushed when the weight of the rest of the fabric piles on top of it. Then it’s stored by the manufacturer for a while and in that time unfortunately the pile goes a bit wayward and no amount of stroking it puts it back to it’s former glory. The fabric isn’t permanently like this as the pile isn’t damaged per se, it’s just got a bit of bed hair so needs a little coaxing to restore it.

We finish a lot of plush bolts each week which means we have a lot of remnants being created all of the time, in fact we are drowning in the stuff. We have a whole corner of our warehouse dedicated to plush remnants! There are just too many for us to list for sale individually so we also sell bundles at a reduced price. I thought I’d share this quick guide on how to breathe the life back in to the end of roll plush fabric. It’s perfectly good, and a bargain too so it’s worth considering having a go at this if you are a plush lover.

Everything I’d ever read about plush or minky fabric told me never to iron the fabric, not surprising when you think that it’s 100% polyester so liable to melt! I first discovered this technique completely by accident, I was experimenting with some plush remnants to see if I could iron on Bondaweb to the reverse of the fabric and run it through our die cutter machine to make some plush appliqué shapes. Low and behold, not only did the Bondaweb stick, and I could, but the pile on the plush was completely restored.

Restoring Smooth Plush (Smooth Minky Fabric)

1) Set your iron to low and turn off the steam and iron the reverse of the fabric

Often that’s all you need to do! It very much depends on the extent of the issue and will vary each time.

2) If you find this hasn’t worked try increasing the heat slightly. I’d recommend never getting any higher that the wool setting on your iron, any higher and you risk melting the fabric.

3) Sometimes the higher heat still doesn’t fully do the job and some bed hair remains, if that’s the case then flip your fabric over and iron the right side, making sure that the iron passes in the same direction as the pile.

How to Restore Dimple Plush (Dimple Minky Fabric)

Now dimple is a different beast, whatever you do don’t go ironing dimple as otherwise the dimples will disappear. For ages I didn’t think anything could be done to restore dimple without a wash but then I had a brain wave and had another little experiment… and it worked!

Here’s a before picture…

All you need to do is pop your dimple plush in the tumble dryer for 10 minutes (mine was on the highest setting). Don’t leave it sitting in there to cool or it will crease more. Remove it and smooth the pile down

And here’s the finished result, perfect!

Most cuts will restore as good as new using these methods, but some are stubborn and just won’t completely disappear this way, but the pile will always restore after a launder in the washing machine as these bad hair days are not a permanent thing.

If you have discovered a different method then I’d love to hear it.

Happy Days!

Sew A Child’s Skirt: Part Two Top Stitching Tips

by | Mar 25, 2014 | My Makes, Tutorials

Following on from this post, this is the second part of making a child’s skirt. I’ve not split these up as it’s an arduous task making this skirt, just simply because there are a few techniques I’ve used that are very transferable outside of little girl’s skirts so I figured it’d be an easy way to to take the bits you needed.

1) Use a foot with a bar

I often get comments about how neat my topstitching is and people often wonder how I can get a row of stitching so close to the edge of a garment and it be so straight! Well let me share my secret, I always use a foot to help achieve those dead straight lines. I have several “go to” feet for top stitching depending on where it is on a garment and how close to the edge I want to be. All these feet have the same thing in common – they all have a little bar that your fabric butts up against and you can use as a guide.

These are the three I use most often but if you have any other type of foot with a bar it will work too. You can achieve different widths by moving your needle position left and right (look carefully where you needle will come down so you don’t hit a bar!). The one that gives the narrowest results is the edge joining foot pictured on the right. I’ve never used this foot for edge joining, I *think* it’s supposed to be for attaching lace to garments but I cant be 100% sure and it was the first one I used to help me top stitch. Then when I started quilting I got a few more feet, and they had bars too – yay! The 1/4 inch foot gives you a wider top stitch and the stitch in the ditch is great when top stitching where 2 fabric meet, like here in between the piping and the skirt.

2) Increase your stitch length

When  top stitching you’re often going through several layers of fabric, especially if you consider you’re often sewing through both the seams as well as the fabric. To give your topstitching the best chance of looking neat it’s a good idea to increase your stitch length. I generally increase from 2.5mm to 3mm, sometimes more if fabrics are thick, or there are more layers.

For my skirt I used a stitch in the ditch foot and set my needle position to the left and the guide nestled in the ditch between the two fabrics and left me with a beautiful, even and neat top stitch.

Next post will all be about the lining!

10 Minute No Sew Fabric Covered Mouse Mat Tutorial

10 Minute No Sew Fabric Covered Mouse Mat Tutorial

by | Jan 27, 2014 | My Makes, Tutorials

I recently ordered some rather drab mouse mats from our stationery supplier, they are made of recycled car tyres so I felt rather virtuous purchasing recycled and all that, but they were *so* boring and not the least bit pretty so I decided to get busy and cover them with some of our *very* pretty fabric. It was the simplest thing and literally took less than 10 minutes to complete and you don’t even need the sewing machine. 

You will need: 

Cotton fabric of your choice. You’ll easily get 4 out of a fat quarter (mouse mat size dependant of course!) and it needs to be cotton as you’re going to iron it. 

Bondaweb 

A rotary cutter (the 28mm OLFA cutter made this very easy)

Some Fray Stoppa 

A mouse mat

Here’s how to make it. If you put the kettle on now you will be finished before it boils!

1) Cut out your Bondaweb and fabric a little larger than your mousemat.

2) Iron the Bondaweb on to the reverse side of the fabric. I always flip and iron the other side to make sure the adhesive is well and truly stuck.

3) Wait a few minutes for the Bondaweb and fabric to cool to ensure the glue is firmly adhered to the fabric. Remove the Bondaweb backing paper by scoring with a pin and then peel away.

4) Place the mousemat on to the now sticky side of your fabric ensuring the edge of the mousemat runs parallel to any pattern on your fabric to ensure it’s straight. Flip over and iron your fabric to the mousemat so the Bondaweb adheres, make sure you give it a good press.

5) Trim around the edges of the fabric with a rotary cutter using the mouse mat as a guide for your blade.

6) Dab some Fray Stoppa all the way around the edge of the fabric with your finger, brushing in the direction of the fabric threads. Viola! Time to make your cup of tea 🙂