Tutorial: Sew a Cot Bed Duvet Cover

by Kellie Rose | Apr 26, 2021 | My Makes, Tutorials

Free DIY Toddler/Cot Bed Duvet Cover Tutorial

Moving up into a ‘big bed’ is a significant milestone for many a toddler, getting them to stay there and sleep can be a different matter… Maybe their very own special bedding set will give them the incentive to stay put, allowing them (and you!) to have a good nights’ sleep! Therefore, we have prepared this Sew a Cot Bed Duvet Cover tutorial to help you get started.

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Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

This cot bed duvet cover tutorial has been designed to make the very best use of the Silk Road Border Print fabric. If you’re not use what a border print is then check out our guide here

You will learn:

· How to form a grown on placket

· How to add a sewn on placket

· How to sew a button hole

· How to use Kam pliers

· How to sew a French seam

These measurements will fit a cot bed duvet size 150 x 120cm and a toddler pillow size 60 x 40cm

You will need:

2.1m 110cm wide Cotton border print (Fabric A)
1.5m 110cm wide Contrast print cotton fabric (Fabric B)
1.5m 110cm wide Solid colour cotton fabric (Fabric C)
1.25m Lightweight fusible woven interlining (or you can piece interfacing scraps if you don’t have 1.25m in one strip – Grab 10% off Woven Interlining with WOVEN10)
Thread
7 KAM snaps and pliers OR 7 Buttons

Here we used*

*Toddler duvet size 150 x 120cm, Toddler pillow size 60 x 40cm

A Note On Sewing French Seams

French seams are most commonly used for fine fabrics, we are using them here for a few reasons:

The seam is sewn twice, making the finished item more durable.
Raw edges are enclosed in the finished seam, to give a neat finish.
This gives an opportunity to practice French seams with more forgiving fabrics.

Please note: On fine fabrics the 1^st seam sewn allowance is trimmed as a wider seam allowance is sometimes necessary for this step. As cotton is being used here, a 5mm seam can be normally be sewn on a domestic machine without the fabric being ‘chewed’. The finished seams here will not be visible as per sheer fabrics, therefore a slightly bulkier finish does not present any aesthetic issues. The final seam on fine fabrics would be narrower, but in the interest of gaining insight into the technique, the seam allowances are not being trimmed following the 1^st sew, unless you wish to.

Important notes:

1.5cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed

For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated

Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturers care advice

How to sew a DIY Toddler duvet cover

In this part of the cot bed duvet cover tutorial, let us go through the steps in sewing a duvet cover for your toddler.

1. Cut out the fabrics out as follows:

Border print Fabric A:

110 x 123cm Duvet front piece
78.5 x 43cm Pillow front
63.5 x 43cm Pillow back

Contrast print Fabric B:

43 x 123cm Duvet front piece
66.5 x 123cm Duvet back piece

Block colour fabric Fabric C:

93 x 123cm Duvet back piece
8 x 123cm placket

Interfacing:

8 x 123cm Sewn on placket
5 x 123cm Grown on placket

Make the plackets

1.How to sew a grown on placket

2. Apply the 5cm wide strip of woven interlining to the back of the bottom edge on the contrast back duvet piece

3. Fold over and press the bottom 5cm of the back duvet piece

4. Tuck the raw edge under to meet the crease and press again to form the placket

5. Measure and mark 20cm from each end of the placket

6. Starting at one mark top stitch along each edge of the placket, 3m from the crease and stop when the other mark is reached

How to sew a sewn on placket

7. Apply the 8cm wide interlining to the placket

8. Fold the placket in half and press

9. On one side of the placket only fold over 1.5cm and press

10. Pin the right side of the unfolded edge of the placket to the wrong side of the bottom edge of the border print duvet front piece and sew

11. Press the seam open with the seam allowance pressed toward the placket

12. Pin along the placket on the right side of the duvet front piece

13. Measure and mark 20cm from each end of the placket

14. Starting at one mark top stitch along each edge of the placket, 3m from the crease and stop when the other mark is reached

Assemble the front panel sewing French seams

15. Pin the wrong side top edge of the border print duvet front piece to the wrong side bottom edge of the contrast duvet front piece

16. Sew with a 5mm seam allowance

17. Press the seam open with the seam allowances to one side, trim any loose threads

18. Fold along the seam to bring the 2 fabrics right sides together and press

19. Pin then sew with a 1cm seam allowance

20. Press the seam allowance toward the border print fabric

Assemble the back panel sewing French seams

21. Pin the wrong side top edge of the contrast duvet back piece to the wrong side bottom edge of the solid colour duvet back piece

22. As per steps 16. To 19; Begin the French seam and sew with a 5mm seam allowance

23. Press the seam open with the seam allowances to one side, trim any loose threads

24. Fold along the seam to bring the 2 fabrics right sides together and press

25. Pin then sew with a 1cm seam allowance

26. Press the seam allowance toward the contrast fabric

Join the Placket ends

27. Align the front and back duvet panels right sides together

28. Clip the 2 plackets together

29. One end at a time, sew along one side of the plackets 3mm from the edge, along the marked line (from step 5 & 11), then back along the other edge of the plackets. To reinforce the marked line, backstitch along it before continuing

30. Fold the front and back duvet panels along the inner edge of the placket to bring the wrong sides together with the placket tucked in along the bottom edge. Press along the placket edges

Assemble the duvet cover using French seams

31. Smooth out the duvet front and back panels wrong sides together and pin along the top edge

32. Sew a French seam as per steps 16. to 19

33. Turn the duvet cover right side out and smooth out the front and back fabrics

34. Pin the sides together, wrong sides facing.

35. Sew French seams in the 2 sides as per steps 16. To 19.

Please note: After sewing and pressing the first part of the seam turn the 2 corners of the top seam allowance to overlap the same side at each end and sew over the ends with the 1cm seam. For the placket end; trim the placket seam allowance as close to the seamline as possible and turn the plackets to the same side each end, then sew over the ends with the 1cm seam.

Prepare to add the fastenings

36. Make 7 marks at the following points on the inside of the front and back plackets:

The centre of the placket
3 marks at 10cm intervals to each side of the centre

37. Follow either the KAM snap or button hole directions to add the placket fastenings:

How to attach KAM snaps

38. Add the Kam snaps at the marked positions: Use female snaps on one side of the opening and male snaps on the other with the smooth sides on the inside of the placket.

a) At the centre of the mark use an awl to make a hole through the placket only.

b) Thread the snap backing piece through from the underside of the placket.

c) Clip the applicable snap piece onto the top side.

d) Line the snap back piece up in the plier base.

e) Position the pliers on a solid surface and press firmly (lean into the pliers for added force) until the snap is fixed in place.

f) Repeat for all snaps, if you’d like to see a video on KAM snaps, click here.

39. Sew the buttonholes and attach the buttons, for a handy guide on this check out our ‘How to Sew a Buttonhole’ blog here or our video guide here.

How to sew an envelope pillow

Prepare the pillow front

40. With the pillow front right side down fold over and press 2cm of the short edge on the left

41. Tuck under the raw edges to meet the crease and press again to form a hem

42. Sew along the innermost crease, 2mm from the crease edge

Prepare the pillow back

43. With the pillow back right side down fold over and press 2cm of the short edge on the right.

44. Tuck under the raw edges to meet the crease and press again to form a hem

45. Sew along the innermost crease, 2mm from the crease edge

Form the envelope

46. Line up the short raw edges of the pillow front and pillow back wrong sides together and pin

47. Sew a French seam as per steps 16. to 19.

48. Fold the pillow along the sewn seam bringing the wrong sides together

49. Pin along the 2 sides of the pillow stopping 2 thirds of the way up

50. Fold the excess fabric down in between the 2 fabric layers and smooth it out. The fold needs to align with the top of the pillow back hemline

51. Finish pinning the 2 sides of the pillow

52. Sew along each side with a 5mm seam allowance.

53. Press the seams open with the seam allowances to one side, trim any loose threads.

54. Turn the pillow case, then turn the envelope flap right side down.

55. Turn 2 ends of the sewn seam allowance to the same side

56. Pin then sew each side with a 1cm seam allowance

57. Turn the pillow out the right way and press.

And you’re finished, well done!

Would you love a mattress protector to match? Check out this tutorial!

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Let us know how you get along in the comments below!

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How To: Make Reusable Makeup Remover Pads and Waterproof Bag

by Kellie Rose | Apr 23, 2021 | Bamboo towelling, Project Ideas, Quilt Fabric, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

Help save the planet with 2 FREE tutorials! Read on for a Reusable Makeup Remover Pads sewing tutorial, and a waterproof bag to store them in until laundry day!

Did you know face wipes contain plastic and make up more than 90% of sewer blockages in the UK? They also end up in our oceans, which causes problems for our marine environment and sea creatures. Do you use cotton pads instead when removing makeup? Single use cotton pads are found to be non-biodegradable too.

Beauty experts say a reusable cloth can be less abrasive on the skin and is less likely to cause irritation to more sensitive skin types and around the eye area, ideal for waterproof mascara. A reusable alternative is sustainable and great for your skin!

Also lets not forget the cost, 50 disposable cotton pads can cost around £3-4, if you bought one for each day of the year you’d need around 8 packs, so you’d spend £32 a year.

So, let’s ditch the baby wipes and cotton wool pads! One very easy swap to make is to replace cotton pads for a reusable & washable alternative. Reusable makeup remover pads are a really quick & easy sew, also a great scrap buster.

We highly recommend using a bamboo fabric to back your reusable cotton pads in. The best choices are bamboo towelling and bamboo velour. We recently shared a fabric guide of bamboo fabrics here on the blog.

blog-reusable-make-up-remover-pads-tutorial-1

How To Make Reusable Makeup Remover Pads

You will need..

Cotton fabric – quantity depends on how many you wish to make. You will need 4½ ” square for each makeup pad

Bamboo velour or bamboo towelling – 4½” square is required per pad. We have used (and prefer) bamboo velour for this project as it’s so soft against the face

Thread

Pins

We used the gorgeous Woodland Songbirds fabrics.

Important Notes About Your Bamboo Fabric

Pre-Wash all of your fabrics and dry them as they will be laundered. Don’t skip this step! This is really important for bamboo velour as, like many stretch fabrics, the velour is likely to shrink a little

It is also advisable not to use fabric conditioner when laundering bamboo velour as it can affect its absorbency ofter a while.

Looking for more info on bamboo fabric? Check out our full guide here

Prepare & cut your fabrics.

For each pad you require

One 4.5” x 4.5” square of cotton
One 4.5” x 4.5” square of bamboo velour or bamboo towelling

Take 1 square of bamboo and one square of cotton and place RST and pin

2. Sew around all 4 sides with a 1.5cm seam allowance leaving a small turning gap of 1-2” *Pro Tip to help with your turning gap later on – When starting off your sewing place the needle in your fabrics 1cm from the raw edge and then pivot your fabric. This makes sewing up the turning hole easier.

3. Clip the corners on the diagonal and clip the main seams to ¼” – leaving the turning gap with 1.5cm seam allowance

4. Turn through the gap you’ve left and poke out the corners to a sharp point.

5. Press and then top stitch a scant ¼” from the edge with a 3mm stitch length, making sure you close up the turning hole.

…and you’re done!

Would you love to make a pouch for them to go in? Let’s make a double pocket waterproof dry bag!

BLOG-Double-Pocket-Waterproof-Dry-Bag-Tutorial-1024x576

We thought we would share this tutorial to make a waterproof dry zip pouch with two pockets, one which is waterproof, to keep your clean and used make up pads apart. When you’re ready to wash your reusable makeup pads, simply open the zip and put the whole thing into the washing machine.

You’ll need some waterproof fabric for this make, we recommend PUL fabric but check out our Waterproof Fabrics Guide here for more information.

How To Make A Double Pocket Waterproof Dry Bag

You Will Need…

2 pieces PUL Fabric 10.5″ x 7.5″

2 x cotton fabric for outer 10.5″ x 7.5″

2 x cotton fabric for pocket 10.5″ x 7″

1 x 10″ closed ended zip

Co-ordinating thread

All supplies can be found on our website.

To match our previous make, we used the Nutex Woodland Songbirds fabrics.

Cut out your fabrics – sizes are above

Sew the 2 pocket pieces together (RST) with 1cm seam allowance

Press this seam open and then fold over so that approximately 1cm of the pocket lining is visible on the outside, making a contrasting band.

Trim the excess fabric at the bottom to make the pieces the same size.
Top stitch along the seam line.
Sandwich your fabrics in the following order:

PUL Lining (Shiny side up)
Zip (Teeth facing up)
Outer cotton piece (Right side facing down)

Pin or clip all of the layers in place.

Sew the 3 layers together using a zipper foot
Finger press the fabrics & then top stitch close to the seam
Repeat steps 6 and 7 for the other side
Lay the outer pocket on to the outer of the bag & baste in place

TOP TIP: Open the zip pull half way so you can turn!

Line up the two lining pieces & the two outer pieces and stitch all the way around leaving a 3-4” turning gap in the PUL lining.

12. Trim the corners & turn right side out.

13. Stitch up the hole in the lining fabric.

14. Turn to the right side, poke out the corners and press.

Yay you’re finished!

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A Quick Guide To PUL Fabric

by Kellie Rose | Apr 22, 2021 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, My Makes, Product Guides, PUL Projects, Tutorials

What Is PUL Fabric?

So, what is PUL fabric? Or polyurethane laminate – apart from being a mouthful!?

Polyurethane laminate can be abbreviated to PUL fabric.

PUL is special… It’s a waterproof AND breathable fabric!

Why is this important?

Well, it means if you make waterproof items of clothing your body heat has a better chance of escaping into the atmosphere!

Heat escapes THROUGH the fabric – so you “glow” less.

It’s pretty brilliant!

Composition of PUL Fabric

PUL has 2 sides.

One side is a polyester knit, so has a slight stretch which is great for clothing.

The other side has a laminate coating applied.

It’s slippery and shiny – this is the waterproof bit.

PUL is soft & flexible
It doesn’t really crease
It air dries in super quick time
It’s safe – there’s no lead, phthalates or BPA

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What is Sandwich PUL?

As well as single layer PUL we also stock sandwich PUL which works in the same way but instead of being composed of 2 layers of fabric there are 3 layers. The layer of laminate is sandwiched in between 2 layers knit fabric. This is especially helpful if you don’t want to have the shiny laminate side against the skin as it’s hidden away between the knit layers. It’s also stronger so if you are applying a kind of fastener such as KAM snaps, extra reinforcement isn’t required around the fastenings.

Uses: Cloth nappies and wraps, anoraks, waterproof trousers, wet bags, swim bags, changing mats, changing bags, mattress protectors, pillow protectors, baby bibs, picnic blankets, incontinence products, anywhere you need a waterproof, breathable layer.

Is there a right or wrong side?

We ALWAYS get asked this.

Is there a right side to ensure “waterproof-ness”?

There isn’t really, it’s a personal preference.

The fabric will be waterproof no matter which side you choose, so go with the look that pleases you most!

That said, for aesthetic & comfort reasons I usually use the knit side as the “right” side most often.

It’s more comfy if your project will be close to the skin.

Tips for sewing with PUL fabric

✂️ Needle: Use a stretch needle

✂️ Stitch Length: Use 3mm stitch length

✂️ Machine Foot: A walking foot is helpful. If your machine foot is sticking then you can apply a bit of Scotch Magic Tape to the base of your normal machine foot

✂️ Thread Type: Polyester thread is recommended to match the fabric composition

✂️ Sealing sewing holes: When you sew your needle will leave tiny holes behind in the laminate layer which MAY affect the waterproof effectiveness of your garment.

These holes are easily resealed … either:

✂️ Pop your garment in the tumble dryer on low for 20 minutes

✂️ Or if you’re using our White PUL it’s weldable so just iron it (using a pressing cloth!) and the holes will seal!

❤️ A special note regarding our own brand of white PUL … we get this manufactured ourselves here in the UK & it has some very special properties:

☔ Its waterproof YET breathable

☔ Its medical grade

☔ Its weldable giving you a completely sealed seam (Look! No leaks!)

☔ Its fungistatic which – apart from being a brilliant word – means it inhibits the growth of fungi & bacteria ?

☔ Its double laminated – whaaaat’s that?! It means it lasts longer & is less likely to delaminate over time as it’s washed loads

☔ Its fire retardant

Uses For PUL Fabric

Love the sound of PUL? So where can you use it?! Well… anywhere you need a waterproof layer really…. here’s some handy projects on our blog!

Other ideas include….

Waterproof trousers
Wet bags
Cloth Nappies (We have a guide all about these here)
Changing mats
Changing bags
Picnic blankets
Pillow protectors
Incontinence products
Cloth sanitary protection

Have you sewn with PUL fabric? Have you got any tips to share?

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Make A Reversible Baby Bib – Free Pattern And Video Tutorial

by Kellie Rose | Apr 9, 2021 | Tutorials

You have been loving our Dribble Bib blog post, so I thought it was time to show you how to make a reversible baby bib with these gorgeous Farm Days fabrics from Dashwood Studio!

You Will Need…

(Measurements are for 1 bib)

2 Cotton Fabrics min. 25x40cm each (We used Farm Days from Dashwood Studio!)

Thread

Kam snaps

Handy Tools We Used…

Needle Grippers

Pinking Shears

Important Things To Remember…

Use a 1cm seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise stated

When machine sewing, always backstitch at the start and at the end

Pre-wash your fabrics

Drop the stitch length around the curves for a smoother curve

Disclaimer: Suffocation hazard. Never leave a child unattended when wearing a reversible bib. Always remove a bib when a child is sleeping.

Want a ready-to-use pattern? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the reversible baby bib pattern.

DOWNLOAD Pattern

Prefer written instructions? Check out our Dribble bib blog!

Ready? Click below to go to our YouTube channel for a step by step tutorial!

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Loved making this? We would love to see your makes over on the Plush Club Facebook group! Feel free to ask any questions there, or in the comments below.

Sew A Make Up Bag: Free Pattern and Tutorial To Make A Large Make Up Bag

by Kellie Rose | Apr 6, 2021 | My Makes, Tutorials

Fancy making a roomy make up bag pouch to show off some fave fabric prints? We just LOVE a make up bag with an accent fabric – it’s a really easy way to add sprinkling of extra interest to your project. At the end of this tutorial, you will be able to sew a large make up bag. In addition, there is a free pattern to download.

This make up bag is a really great size. The finished bag ends up approx 28cm wide & 17cm deep… add to that a flat bottom & the fact that zip isn’t sewn into the side seams means the pouch is BIG! So you can fit loads of your make up or toiletries inside. Or use it for craft supplies!

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We’ve created a FREE PDF pattern for you to download and get stitching.

Download it below!

Get your free make up bag pattern here!

Click the button below to download.

DOWNLOAD PATTERN

This project is well within the grasp of a confident beginner.

If you need supplies for this project you can find everything you need in our online Sewing SuperStore – Plush Addict. You’ll find links for everything we’ve used throughout this free tutorial to make it super simple for you!

The fabrics we used in this project are from the Michiko collection from Makower & we think they make for a pretty elegant make up bag, the tassel is a darling finishing touch!

If you can bear to give it away after you’ve made it, this make up bag will make a beautiful gift for someone dear.

How To Sew A Make Up Bag

Sewing Skill Level: Confident Beginner

You will learn

How to insert a zip

How to apply woven interfacing

Important Information!

1cm seam allowance, unless directed

Use a 2.5mm straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length unless otherwise directed

You will need the following to sew the make up bag:

The PDF Pattern. Request your copy here

1 FQ quilting cotton for lining (pattern piece C)

30cm x 35cm quilting cotton outer A

30cm x 40cm quilting cotton outer B

Scrap quilting cotton for Zipper tab measuring 2” x 3”

50cm fusible Woven interfacing (Grab a cheeky 10% discount off your next Fusible Woven Interfacing purchase with WOVEN10 One time use per customer.)

50cm x 30cm of Fusible Fleece

12” zip (or longer) We used a 14″ zip and trimmed it down

1 x 10mm tassel (or make your own with a tassel maker!)

Thread

We used fabrics from the beautiful Michiko collection from Makower available from our online fabric shop here

Optional but very useful tools:

Clover Curved Awl

Wonder clips

Applique scissors

Let’s get started!…

Step 1: Cut your fabrics, interfacing & fusible fleece on the fold, as directed on the pattern pieces (request the pattern here).

Step 2: Iron the woven interfacing to outer fabrics A & B. For full instructions on how to apply woven interfacing please check out this post.

Step 3: Iron on fusible fleece to the Lining C following manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 4: Take 1 x outer A and 1 x outer B & then sew with RST, taking note of which way is the top of your bag (especially important with a directional fabric – you don’t want to sew it upside down!).

Step 5: Press the seam allowance to one side (the darker fabric side) & top stitch with 3mm stitch length.

Step 6: Repeat steps 4 & 5 for the other side of the make up bag. You should now have fabrics that look like this.

Inserting The Zip:

Step 7: Fold back the end of the zip tape so it makes a right angle to the zip teeth. Tack with a couple of hand stitches.

Step 8: With outer piece face up lay the prepared zipper teeth side down.

Step 9: Take one of the outer pieces & mark with a pin ¾” from the left edge of the and 1” from the right hand side.

Step 10: With the zip teeth face down against the right side of the fabric, align the metal zip stop with the pin ¾” from the fabric edge.

Step 11: Aligning the zip tape with the raw edge of the fabric pin the zip in place. Baste the zip in place with ⅛” seam allowance aligning the fabric edge. Stop stitching at the 1” mark at the other end of the fabric.

Step 12: Lay the lining piece face down to sandwich the zip between the outer and lining fabrics.

Step 13: Stitch the zip in place with ¼” seam. When you get to the point you have marked 1” from the other end stop with your needle down.

Step 14: Pull the zipper tape away from the raw edge so the zipper is no longer in line to be stitched.

Pro Tip – A curved awl like this one is a very helpful tool here) Carry on with the seam to the edge of the fabric, stitching through the outer and lining fabrics only.

Step 15: Trim the fusible fleece excess out of the zip seam allowance.

Pro tip – These applique scissors make this a cinch & lessen your chances of cutting in to your fabrics by mistake.

Step 16: Finger press the zip seam, but don’t top stitch yet.

Step 17: Repeat steps 5 – 8 for the other side of the zip. Remembering to mirror the markings points as the outer piece is a mirror. Your project should now look like this…

Get your free pattern to sew a make up bag here!

Click the button below to download.

DOWNLOAD PATTERN

Sewing Up The Pouch:

Step 18: Open the zipper half way for turning purposes & pin the loose zipper tail to the lining to keep it out of the way.

Step 19: Bring together the 2 x outer pieces & 2 x lining pieces RST. On the outer pieces pin/ clip at the seam join & then clip all the way around, making sure the seam match at the outer seam and the zipper.

Step 20: Sew down both both side seams only.

Step 21: Trim away the excess fusible fleece from the seam allowance.

Step 22: Sew the bottom seam of the outer layer, then sew the lining fabric but leave a 4”-5” turning gap. Trim away the excess fusible fleece from the seam allowance.

Sewing The Corner:

Step 23: On each corner match the seams.

Step 24: Clip the bottom seams together & then sew, making sure the seam allowances are sewn open. Do this for all corners.

Step 25: Trim back the excess fabric on the corner seams to ¼”. Repeat for all 4 corners.

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Step 26: Trim excess fabric at either end of the zip, being careful not to cut your stitch line.

Step 27: Turn your bag to the right side through the hole left in the lining & then stitch the hole closed either by hand or by machine with a very scant seam.

Step 28: Top stitch all round the top of the bag with a 3.5mm stitch length.

Adding The Zipper Tab

Step 29: Crop off any the excess on zip tail to suit your desired length – you need to leave at least 1”.

Step 30: Take your zipper tab fabric and press in each edge by 1cm, then fold in half along the long side. With both short ends folded in 1cm, place 1 folded edge at the reverse of the zip and wrap both sides around the zip tape.

Step 31: Once both sides are wrapped around fold up the long side in half and match the 2 short folded edges and pin/clip in place.

Step 32: Stitch around the 4 sides of the zip tab with a ⅛” seam.

Pro Tip – the Clover curved awl can really help here for tucking in the edges of fabric that want to peek out!

Press your bag and you are finished!

Get your free make up bag pattern here!

Click the button below to download.

DOWNLOAD PATTERN

All done!

We hope you found this tutorial useful!

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

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Free 30 Minute Skirt Tutorial

by Kellie Rose | Mar 29, 2021 | Tutorials

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Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Need an outfit in a hurry or an emergency gift? If you’re looking to showcase or share some fabulous fabric, this super quick elasticated skirt tutorial will soon have you stepping out in style. It’s budget friendly too – you only need a few resources for this one.

Skill level: Confident Beginner

You will learn

How to find the quarter points
How to sew elastic
How to add an elastic waistband

You will need:

Skirt: Cotton fabric Width: Double the wearer’s waist size plus 6cm. Length: Required length plus 3cm
Waistband: 38mm Elastic Waist size plus 3cm

We used:

Skirt: Makower Pamper border print, cut as 2 panels
Red waistband elastic

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Important notes

1.5cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturers care advice.

Tips for sewing elastic

We recommend the following needle types: Ballpoint needle, Jersey needle, Stretch needle
Stitch: Stretch stitch or Zig zag with a short stitch length and long stitch width
Thread type: Polyeste or sewe all thread
Sewing clips reduce the risk of snagging
We do not advise using an overlocker; they can snag and fray this type of elastic

Method for making an elasticated skirt

Cut the materials:

1. Cut out the materials as calculated above:

Skirt: Cut as either 1 or 2 panels depending on the fabric design/ size. For 2 panels cut the panels half the total width x total length. For a single panel cut total width minus 3cm x Length
Waistband: as calculated above

Prepare the waistband

2. Clip the 2 ends of the waistband together and sew.

3. Separately tidy the ends of the elastic using zig zag stitch: length 2, width 2. Tie the thread ends to secure.

4. Open the seam and stitch the seam allowances to the waistband so they sit flat.

Prepare the skirt

5. Clip and sew the 2 skirt panels together or for 1 panel clip and sew the 2 sides together.

6. Press the seam allowances open and tidy with zig zag stitch: length 2, width 3, tying the ends to secure.

7. Turn the skirt out the right way

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Assemble the elasticated skirt

8. Find the quarter points around the top of the skirt and waistband and mark:

On a 2 panel skirt the side quarter points are marked by the side seams. Bring these together and smooth the fabric out to the sides, where the fabric folds are the other 2 points.
On the waistband and 1 panel skirt use the seam as the back ¼ point. Fold along the back seam, smoothing out the material and where a fold forms on the other side is the front point. Bring the front and back points together, smooth the material to the sides and the 2 folds are the side points.

9. With the right sides facing line up the points on the skirt and waistband and clip together position the waistband join to the back.

10. Stretch the elastic to the length of the fabric between the points and clip together. A spare pair of hands can make this easier.

11. Starting centre back sew the skirt and waistband together: Use zig zag stitch, 1 length, 4 width, sew as close to the edge as possible. Stretch the elastic as it approaches and exits the presser foot. Overlap the start point and tie thread ends to secure.