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How To Sew A Waterproof Mattress Protector

How To Sew A Waterproof Mattress Protector

by | Apr 27, 2021 | Bamboo towelling, My Makes, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

You never quite realise how much your child moves around in their sleep until you reach the toilet training stage. Once that plastic protector is on their bed every movement is exaggerated with the crunchy rustle of plastic! And if that isn’t enough, the poor lamb suddenly finds themselves overheating from the added insulation.

A mattress protector like this is designed to fit on top your main sheet to help you change your child’s bed quickly and easily in the middle of the night. Your child will sleep with cool cotton against their skin and when soiled just whip this protector off and replace with another OR if have a separate bed sized waterproof protector under the main sheet of the bed you can literally just whip this off and get back to sleep!

The finished mattress protector is machine washable; make 2 or more and there will always be a spare on hand for those blurry eyed bed changes. The top and sides are cotton, giving a huge number of styling options, and it fits over a bed sheet instead of under, for speedy switching in the middle of the night.

Another advantage if using this protector is that it will reduce the size of your laundry load as these are around half the size of a full sheet.

This tutorial runs you through how to make a mattress protector of any size. It combines absorbent bamboo velour, non-rustling and breathable waterproof PUL fabrics for a quieter, cooler night’s sleep along with some pretty quilting cotton to make it super pretty!

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

A Sewing Project for Confident Beginners

You will learn:

  • How to sew bamboo velour fabric
  • How to sew Waterproof fabric

You will need:

Measure the length, width and depth of the mattress in cms:

We used*

*The single mattress being covered was 190cm long, 90cm wide and 20cm deep

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Important notes

1.5cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 3.5 unless otherwise stated.

Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturers care advice – Bamboo velour should be prewashed without fabric softener.

DO NOT iron waterproof fabric.

Disclaimer: PUL and waterproof fabrics are a suffocation hazard, always check the sheet is firmly fitted before every use.

Tips on how to sew waterproof fabric:

  • Use clips or pin within the seam allowance – pin holes will remain visible.
  • Waterproof fabrics can slip; we recommend a walking foot is used for this project. Otherwise try a Teflon or roller foot, or a strip of Scotch ‘magic tape’ stuck to the bottom of a standard foot.
  • Sew with tissue paper over the side that is slipping, and tear it away after.
  • Use an 80/12 needle

How to make a Waterproof Mattress Protector

1. Cut out the following using the measurements calculated above:

  • Topper
  • Absorbent layer
  • PUL
  • Side panels

Prepare the hem

2. Hem the 2 short sides of the side panels and 1 long side: With the fabric facing wrong side up, turn over 2cm of fabric along each side and press.

3. Fold the raw edges under to the crease and press forming a 1cm border.

Mitre the corners

Never mitred corners before? Check out this video to help.

4. Mitre the 2 hem corners on each side panel: Starting at one corner, open out the 2cm hem on both sides with 1cm of fabric still folded.

5. Fold over the corner, the creases will have formed a small square. Align the 2 sides of the small square with the two 2cm creases on the underside of the panel.

6. Finger press along the crease.

7. Unfold the corner and mark out the fold line.

8. Fold the corner in half, bringing the 2 right sides together.

9. Pin and sew along the marked line.

10. Trim the seam allowance to 3mm and clip the end.

11. Turn out the corner, use a turner to shape the point

12. Press then sew around the inner edge of the hems to secure.

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Assemble the Mattress Topper

13. Align the fabrics in the following order:

  • Waterproof fabric: Shiny side up
  • Topper: Right side down
  • Absorbent fabric: right side down

Please note: the waterproof layer is longer to create a lip at the edges of the finished mat.

14. Align and clip the short edges of the 3 fabrics together, guiding the excess waterproof fabric toward the centre.

15. Sew the 3 layers of fabric together on each side.

16.  Understitch the seam allowances 2mm from the seamline, seam allowances overlapping the waterproof fabric side.

17. Add the side panels: Working under the waterproof layer, align the raw edges of the side panel with the side seams of the topper, right sides facing.

18.  Clip the side panel, topper and absorbent layers together.

19. Baste with a 1cm seam allowance then press the seam allowances toward the topper fabric. Take care to avoid ironing the waterproof fabric.

20. Repeat steps 17. To 19. on the other side panel.

21. Clip the waterproof fabric to the topper fabrics. 1.5cm of waterproof fabric should extend past each end of the topper.

22. Sew the 2 sides leaving a 30cm turning gap in the centre of one.

23. Turn the mattress protector out the right way.

24. Sew the opening closed.

And you’re finished, well done!

Would you love a duvet cover and pillow to match? Check out the tutorial here.

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How To: Make Reusable Makeup Remover Pads and Waterproof Bag

How To: Make Reusable Makeup Remover Pads and Waterproof Bag

by | Apr 23, 2021 | Bamboo towelling, Project Ideas, Quilt Fabric, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

Help save the planet with 2 FREE tutorials! Read on for a Reusable Makeup Remover Pads sewing tutorial, and a waterproof bag to store them in until laundry day!

Did you know face wipes contain plastic and make up more than 90% of sewer blockages in the UK? They also end up in our oceans, which causes problems for our marine environment and sea creatures. Do you use cotton pads instead when removing makeup? Single use cotton pads are found to be non-biodegradable too. 

Beauty experts say a reusable cloth can be less abrasive on the skin and is less likely to cause irritation to more sensitive skin types and around the eye area, ideal for waterproof mascara. A reusable alternative is sustainable and great for your skin!

Also lets not forget the cost, 50 disposable cotton pads can cost around £3-4, if you bought one for each day of the year you’d need around 8 packs, so you’d spend £32 a year.

So, let’s ditch the baby wipes and cotton wool pads! One very easy swap to make is to replace cotton pads for a reusable & washable alternative. Reusable makeup remover pads are a really quick & easy sew, also a great scrap buster. 

We highly recommend using a bamboo fabric to back your reusable cotton pads in. The best choices are bamboo towelling and bamboo velour. We recently shared a fabric guide of bamboo fabrics here on the blog. 

How To Make Reusable Makeup Remover Pads

 

You will need..

Cotton fabric – quantity depends on how many you wish to make. You will need 4½ ” square for each makeup pad

Bamboo velour or bamboo towelling – 4½” square is required per pad. We have used (and prefer) bamboo velour for this project as it’s so soft against the face

Thread

Pins

We used the gorgeous Woodland Songbirds fabrics.

Important Notes About Your Bamboo Fabric

 

Pre-Wash all of your fabrics and dry them as they will be laundered. Don’t skip this step! This is really important for bamboo velour as, like many stretch fabrics, the velour is likely to shrink a little

It is also advisable not to use fabric conditioner when laundering bamboo velour as it can affect its absorbency ofter a while.

Looking for more info on bamboo fabric? Check out our full guide here

Prepare & cut your fabrics.

For each pad you require

  1. Take 1 square of bamboo and one square of cotton and place RST and pin

2. Sew around all 4 sides with a 1.5cm seam allowance leaving a small turning gap of 1-2”  *Pro Tip to help with your turning gap later on – When starting off your sewing place the needle in your fabrics 1cm from the raw edge and then pivot your fabric. This makes sewing up the turning hole easier.

3. Clip the corners on the diagonal and clip the main seams to ¼” – leaving the turning gap with 1.5cm seam allowance

4. Turn through the gap you’ve left and poke out the corners to a sharp point.

5. Press and then top stitch a scant ¼” from the edge with a 3mm stitch length, making sure you close up the turning hole.

…and you’re done!

Would you love to make a pouch for them to go in? Let’s make a double pocket waterproof dry bag!

We thought we would share this tutorial to make a waterproof dry zip pouch with two pockets, one which is waterproof, to keep your clean and used make up pads apart. When you’re ready to wash your reusable makeup pads, simply open the zip and put the whole thing into the washing machine.

You’ll need some waterproof fabric for this make, we recommend PUL fabric but check out our Waterproof Fabrics Guide here for more information.

How To Make A Double Pocket Waterproof Dry Bag

 

You Will Need…

2 pieces PUL Fabric 10.5″ x 7.5″

2 x cotton fabric for outer 10.5″ x 7.5″

2 x cotton fabric for pocket 10.5″ x 7″

1 x 10″ closed ended zip

Co-ordinating thread

All supplies can be found on our website.

To match our previous make, we used the Nutex Woodland Songbirds fabrics.

  1. Cut out your fabrics – sizes are above
  1. Sew the 2 pocket pieces together (RST) with 1cm seam allowance
  1. Press this seam open and then fold over so that approximately 1cm of the pocket lining is visible on the outside, making a contrasting band.
  1. Trim the excess fabric at the bottom to make the pieces the same size.
  2. Top stitch along the seam line.
  3. Sandwich your fabrics in the following order:
  • PUL Lining (Shiny side up)
  • Zip (Teeth facing up)
  • Outer cotton piece (Right side facing down)

Pin or clip all of the layers in place.

  1. Sew the 3 layers together using a zipper foot
  2. Finger press the fabrics & then top stitch close to the seam
  3. Repeat steps 6 and 7 for the other side
  4. Lay the outer pocket on to the outer of the bag & baste in place

TOP TIP: Open the zip pull half way so you can turn!

 

  1. Line up the two lining pieces & the two outer pieces and stitch all the way around leaving a 3-4” turning gap in the PUL lining.

12. Trim the corners & turn right side out. 

13. Stitch up the hole in the lining fabric.

14. Turn to the right side, poke out the corners and press.

Yay you’re finished!

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Sewing supplies made from recycled & sustainable materials

Sewing supplies made from recycled & sustainable materials

by | Apr 19, 2021 | Fabric, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Interfacing and Interlining, Ponte Roma Fabric, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing

There’s never been a more important time to reduce, recycle and reuse and using recycled products is a great way to support that ethos. In this guide, we are going to highlight some sewing supplies made from recycled & sustainable materials.

Did you know we sell threads, ribbons, interfacings & fabrics that are made from recycled bottles? Or bio-degradable wadding?! Did you know five plastic fizzy drink bottles can supply enough raw materials to make a new T-shirt? Read on for all the info on how you can up the eco-credentials of your stash and choose sewing supplies made from recycled & sustainable materials

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Ribbons made from recycled materials

 

We are delighted to see that Berisfords are not only now making some of their most popular ranges from recycled plastic bottles, but also the ribbon reels too!

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Recycled polyester is just as good as virgin polyester but takes 59% less energy to make, plus it keeps plastic out of the oceans or landfill. Using recycled polyester also contributes to the reduction of crude oil and natural gas from the earth.

Berisford now manufacture their Grosgrain ribbon & double satin ribbon from recycled plastic bottles!

Browse Recycled Satin Ribbon
Explore Recycled Grosgrain Ribbon

Sustainable & Recycled Interfacings & Interlinings

 

Do you use Vlieseline products? Then you’re already doing your bit for the planet! Did you know many Vlieseline interlinings are made from recycled plastic bottles?

The bottles are checked with all caps, labels and rubber removed. Then the bottles are washed and crushed into granules before being melted and made into fibres, which is made into the polyester interlining and wadding we all love.

Interfacing and interlinings made from recycled plastic bottles

Vlieseline already offer products made of 100% recycled polyester and/or mixtures thereof. By using already existing materials Vlieseline are reducing the consumption of new raw materials – in particular those that come from non-renewable sources.

Products which are made with recycled plastic bottles are

100 % R-PES         F220 | H310 | R 80 | R 200
80% R-PES          P120 | P140 | P250
65% R-PES         M12 | S13
55 % R-PES         249
35 % R-PES         G405 | L11
15 % R-PES         H180

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Biodegradable quilt wadding

 

The Vlieseline Eco-150 wadding is 100% biodegradable!

The ECO 150 wadding biodegrades when in the ground after 57 days. But there’s no need to panic! It doesn’t start to biodegrade unless it is in the ground as it’s the soil enzymes which trigger the degrading process.

Have a read of The Sewing Directory’s review of this wadding here. Fiona did actually bury it in the ground, and it really does return to the earth

Check Out Biodegradable Wadding

Sewing Threads made from recycled plastic bottles

Gutermann Threads have a fantastic collection of polyester threads that are made from recycled plastic bottles and there are over 160 colours to choose from so you’re bound to find a colour perfectly suited to your project.

They are the same price as regular Sew All threads too – it’s a no-brainer easy switch 🙂

These threads are known as ‘sew-all threads’ and are great for both machine and hand sewing, closing and backstitch seams, fine ornamental stitches and decorative seams.

The threads can be used for light and heavy to medium-weight fabrics and even clothing fabrics and knitwear. They are made in Germany with their Micro Core Technology, so the same premium quality you’d expect from Gutermann, but super eco-friendly! You can shop for these on our website.

Explore Gutermann Recycled Thread

Premium Haberdashery with Plastic Free Packaging

 

Looking for some premium quality haberdashery? Hemline have introduced a premium rangle of haberdashery called Hemline Gold perfect for any eco-consious Seam Star who doesn’t want to compromise on style! ♻️

Hemline are known for their sleek, modern tools, inspired by the rich heritage of the sewing industry. We are now stocking their Hemline Gold range, which has been manufactured eliminating waste plastic packaging!

You can take a closer look at the range in this video:

There’s also some gorgeous storage such as premium quality needles & safety pins in glass jars with beautiful brushed gold lids, which can be used for years to come and potentially become an heirloom in the family.

Discover Hemline Gold

We hope you found this post useful. Feel free to ask us any questions and we’ll always try to help!

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Fabric Guide – Using Eco Bamboo Fabrics

Fabric Guide – Using Eco Bamboo Fabrics

by | Apr 14, 2021 | Bamboo towelling, Fabric, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Fleece, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing

We’re kicking off Eco-Week sharing share some information about Bamboo Fabric., considered to be one of the most eco-friendly fibres available. Have a read of our guide to learn why, and about the different types of bamboo fabric that are available.

Bamboo fabric is a natural textile, made from plants called Bamboo, which are known as the ‘plant of a thousand uses’ as they have been used for centuries as building material, but Beijing University managed to develop the super sustainable plant as bamboo fibre.

Bamboo plants grow quickly like grass, so often need a trim and will carry on growing.

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Bamboo fabric is very soft, smooth and lightweight, yet strong. Also, it does not go under much chemical processing to make the fabric, which makes it easy to wear if you have found your skin is sometimes irritated by fabrics.

The fibres have a criss-cross texture which makes it a fantastic moisture absorber but also good for breathability.

Not only is bamboo fabric more environmentally friendly, but it is also super absorbent. This means it’s great for re-usable items like cloth nappies, reusable wipes, yoga towels, women’s cloth pads, mattress covers, pet beds and so much more!

The textile industry have found in comparison to cotton, it is 3 times more absorbent and keeps you cool and dry in sweaty situations! It can also adapt to weather conditions, keeping you cooler than cotton would in the heat but warm and cosy in the winter.

Lab tests on the material have proved that it is naturally anti-bacterial and anti-fungal thanks to the natural substance called ‘Bamboo kun’ which protects the plant from pests. Even after 50 washes, the bamboo fibres continue to have antibacterial properties!

Bamboo fabrics comes in a wide variety of types such as velour, towelling, jersey and stretch terry.

Check out these makes below where bamboo fabric has been used as an absorbent insert.

Photo Credit: Bumble Bees Modern Cloth Nappies

BAMBOO TOWELLING

Read our 13 Tips for Sewing with Bamboo Towelling Fabric here

One of our best selling bamboo options is the Bamboo towelling. Ideal for cloth wipes, bibs and towels, it is super soft and the premium version is lush with a gorgeous sheen for that luxury feel.

There is no stretch to struggle with while sewing but can be quite lofty as it has terry loop on both sides.

Bamboo towelling comes in a few different neutral colours too!

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BAMBOO VELOUR

Another bamboo option we have is a knit fabric with a super soft velour finish. It makes GORGEOUS snuggle blankets & has a great drape for loungewear. It is also a popular choice for nappy making as it’s very soft to touch and is thinner than bamboo towelling.

When sewing, be careful as it has a little stretch so make sure to use lots of pins, a walking foot and a ball point needle. In addition, it makes a fantastic blank canvas for your own colour palette, as it takes dye well.

BAMBOO FRENCH TERRY

Bamboo French Terry is a super high quality premium fabric that comes in a variety of colours. It has a smooth knit side and dimpled weave effect on the reverse. It’s great for lounge wear as well as sports wear as it’s super absorbent. It’s can be used for any item where absorbency is needed.

Bamboo jersey

How about some super soft leggings? Bamboo jersey is ideal for sportswear as it’s soft, breathable, strong and lightweight. Also perfect for t-shirts & dresses. Don’t forget those anti-bacterial properties too, ideal for those sweaty gym sessions!

You can use bamboo jersey any where you might use a regular jersey fabric.

CHECK THE WEIGHT

When browsing for absorbent fabrics, take a note of the fabric weight (normally written as gsm which stands for grams per square metre). The higher GSM the fabric is, the more it will absorb.

What can I make with bamboo fabrics?

 

Looking for project ideas for bamboo fabrics? Here’s some suggestions

For free tutorials and other ideas, check out our blog series.

 

We hope you loved learning all about Bamboo Fabrics! Don’t forget to sign up to the newsletter to make sure you never miss a fabric guide or tutorial again!

For more content on our Eco Week, you can check out Plush Addict on all the socials below.

Upcycled Denim Bag Tutorial

Upcycled Denim Bag Tutorial

by | Mar 16, 2021 | Denim, My Makes, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

If you have some tired looking jeans, their destination doesn’t need to be the charity rag bag yet. Give them a new lease of life with a transformation into this fabulous handbag using this upcycled denim bag tutorial.

Treat yourself to a new bag – from old jeans!

There is a massive selection of bag hardware & accessories here at Plush Addict, so let your creativity flow and produce a one of a kind masterpiece.

 

Skill level: Intermediate Seam-Star

 

You will need:

 

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable upcycled denim bag tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Important notes for sewing the upcycled denim bag:

 

1.5 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.

Pre-wash your fabrics

You will need a strong sewing machine for steps 19 and 24, some machines may struggle with these steps

Please note: The images and video clips were taken during pattern testing, if the pattern pieces appear a different size to your’s and the steps sequenced differently, don’t panic & trust the instructions!

Print and cut the pattern

 

1. Sign up here to be emailed the pattern piece file.

Use the 1” test square to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check print settings. Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the ‘fit to page’ option.

Cut your fabrics

 

2. Using the pattern, cut out the following from BOTH outer & lining fabrics:

2 Side panels
2 Top panels
1 Base panel
From outer only:
2 D ring tabs

If you would like to read our full guide with tips on sewing denim fabric, check out our fabric guide here

Read Our Full Denim Fabric Guide

Top tips:

  • Some denim has graduated fading, before sewing lay out the pieces and plan which direction you want the graduations to flow on your finished denim upcycled bag.
  • Unpick the inside leg seams on jeans to lie them flat

Check your zip

 

3. Open and close the zip to ensure it moves freely.

Assemble the zip panel

4. Place one top panel outer piece right side up. Align the edge of the zipper tape with the edge of the top panel right side down. Set the open end of the zip 1.5cm back from the end of the panel. Clip the zip in place

5. Baste along the edge of the zipper tape, the full length of the top panel, with a 5mm seam allowance. Use a zipper foot, stitch length 4.

6. Align a top panel lining piece right side down with the basted seam and outer top panel piece. The 2 top panel pieces should be right sides facing with the zip sandwiched between them.

7. Using a zipper foot sew the three layers together with a 1cm seam allowance.

8. Top stitch alongside the zip on the outer fabric only; using a zipper foot sew along the outer fabric 2mm from the edge.

9. Repeat steps 4 to 8 for the other side of the zip using the remaining top panel pieces.

10. At the end of the zip panel (not the end where the pull lies when the zip is fastened), hand-sew several stitches around the end of the zipper teeth as a zip bar. Any excess zipper tape can then be cut off; be careful and use domestic scissors when cutting through the teeth.

11. Measure the total width of the assembled zip panel. If the width exceeds 10cm trim equal amounts of each side to achieve the correct width. For example, if the total panel width is 12cm, trim 1cm off each side.

Form the D ring tabs

 

12. Fold each piece in half along the long edge wrong sides together and press.

13. Open the tabs back out and fold the short edges to the central crease and press.

14. Fold the tabs in half again with the raw edges tucked inside and press.

15. Top stitch 2mm from the edge along the 2 longest sides.

16. Lay the base panel outer piece over the zip panel. Fold a D ring tab in half and thread one of the D rings onto it so the straight edge of the D ring sits in the crease.

17. Position the D ring tab along the short edge of the base panel. Using the zip panel as a guide, position the tab so it sits to one side of the zipper teeth and clip in place on the base panel only.

18. Repeat steps 16 and 17 with the other D ring tab, positioning it at the other end of the base panel on the other side of the zipper teeth.

19. Sew the D ring tabs in place with a 1cm seam allowance. Backstitch over each one twice to create 4 lines of stitching.

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable upcycled denim bag tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Assemble the central panel

 

20. At each corner of the outer base panel on the wrong side, make a mark 1.5cm in from the long edge.

21. Align the pieces in the following order:

  • Base panel lining, right side up
  • Zip panel, right side up
  • Base panel outer, right side down

22. Line up the short edges at one end and clip them together.

23. Line up and clip the short edges at the other end together.

24. Sew along the short edges between the markings from step 20.

We have used a zipper with plastic chunky teeth (we love this look!) When sewing over the ends of this type of zip the fabric may need moving forward manually to create a longer stitch:

To do this – Sew to the side of the zipper teeth, raise the needle, lift the presser foot and move the fabric enough for the needle to enter the fabric on the other side of the zipper teeth. If you are using a zip with nylon coil teeth then you should be able to sew straight over the zip teeth.

Reverse this step to go back over the zipper then come forward again to give added strength.

Caution: trying to sew through zipper teeth can break sewing needles, which may result in injury.

25. Turn the base panel outer piece to the back forming the finished central panel. Then turn the whole central panel inside out so the lining fabric is around the outside

26. Assemble the bag: Undo the zip then take one outer side panel and fold it in half along the long edge to find the centre bottom.

27. Find the centre of the bottom panel by lining up the 2 side seams from step 24 and folding the outer bottom panel in half.

28. Line up the 2 centre bottom points and clip right sides together. Continue clipping the central panel around the side panel piece.

29. At the corners make 1cm cuts into the central panel edge for ease around the curves.

30. Sew all the way around the bag side panel. To sew alongside the joins in the central panel (step 24) cast off and switch to a zipper foot and sew avoiding the lining fabric. Then switch back to a standard presser foot to continue sewing round.

31. At the 4 curved corners, make V shaped cuts in the seam allowance at 1cm intervals. They should be 5mm wide then narrow to a point just before the seam line. Then trim the corner seam allowance down to approx. 5mm

32. Repeat steps 26 to 31 with a lining piece.

33. Turn the bag to access the other side of the central panel and repeat steps 26 to 32. When sewing the final lining piece leave a 10cm opening along the bottom edge for turning.

Finishing touches

 

34. Turn the bag out the right way and press the seams, avoid the zipper teeth as the heat may damage them.

35. Find the opening in the lining and clip the 2 sides together. Either machine sew the opening or hand sew with ladder stitch.

36. Clip the strap through the 2 D rings and the upcycled denim bag is complete!

We used:

 

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable upcycled denim bag tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Pin For Later!

15-Minute Upcycled Fabric Tray Tutorial

15-Minute Upcycled Fabric Tray Tutorial

by | Mar 15, 2021 | My Makes, Project Ideas, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

These cute little fabric trays are a great beginner project. They stitch up quickly and are a very handy cute little item to have dotted around your sewing room. Use them to catch threads or keep your little sewing notions tidy and easy to grab. Perfect as a quick gift, scrap buster and a short satisfying sew…

Aren’t they just the sweetest little things?

You will need:

  • An old pair of jeans

  • 1 FQ Quilting cotton

  • Heavy Iron-on Interfacing or a woven interfacing. Vliseline G700 is great for this

  • Temporary fabric marker

  • Thread

3/8″/ 1cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed otherwise.

Step 1:

Decide which sized tray you are going to make. Cut your fabrics as per the the table :

Cut the following based on the table above:

1 x square Denim Outer Fabrics

1 x square Inner quilting cotton

2 x squares Interfacing Squares

Step 2: Iron on interfacing squares to the reverse side of both the denim outer & the quilt cotton fabric inner.

Step 3: With RST pin the outer and inner fabrics together

Step 4: Sew round the edge leaving a turning gap of approx 3-5 inches (depending on which sized tray you are making)

Step 5: Trim the fabric on each corner diagonally to reduce bulk, taking care not to snip through your stitches

Step 6: Turn to the right side making sure your corners are crisp (Use a sturdy pin to dig out the excess fabric in the corners helps here)

Pro Tip: The tool pictured above are Needle Grippers and they are SO helpful for turning out projects

Step 7: Press & pin the turning gap closed.

Step 8: Top Stitch all the way around the edge using a 3mm stitch approximately 1/8″ from the fabric edge , closing the turning gap.

Step 9: On both sides of every corner make a mark with a temporary fabric marker the distance from the corner as listed in the table below

Step 9: Match up the 2 marks on each corner so the lining fabric is touching. Over stitch catching both sides of the tray. Repeat for all 4 corners.

Congratulations! You’re done!

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