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How to repair a trouser pocket: Care & Repair Series #3

How to repair a trouser pocket: Care & Repair Series #3

by | May 19, 2022 | Care and Repair, Haberdashery, Haberdashery Guides, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

Welcome to post number 3 in our Care & Repair Series! Hand up if you love a pocket?! 🙋‍♀️ Pockets are a complete joy to dressmakers everywhere… but what if your pocket wears out? In this post we’re going to walk you through how to repair a pocket. This method can be used for trousers or skirts.

You can also use this method to repair a pocket in a shop bought garment if the pockets are too small for your needs. The joys of sewing, eh?!

Read on to learn how to repair a pocket… it’s easier than you think. We’ve even got a no sew option for you…

Pockets are great for keeping all kinds of useful stuff…  from your phone, to loose change, even the occasional biscuit! Because pockets are so well used, they come under huge amounts of wear & tear.

Pocket bags are usually made from a thinner fabric than the outer trousers or skirt and so holes can be commonplace. And instead of outing a garment and sending it to landfill just because your keys are falling through a pocket hole you can learn to replace the pockets instead. It’s a win for the planet!

Soap box alert! When it comes to pockets in girls’ and women’s clothing. As a general rule of thumb, female fashions have sported pockets that are for purely fashion reasons rather than practical ones.

This certainly annoys my daughter who feels the need to fill her pockets with stones and twigs at every given opportunity. So here I am repairing a hole in her jeans pocket but also extending the pocket bags for her.

In this post we’re going to walk you though

  • How to replace a pocket bag using sewing
  • How to replace a pocket without sewing
  • Create larger pocket bags for your garments

Tutorial: How To Replace A Trouser Pocket

Skill level required: Beginner Friendly

Some important notes about replacement pocket products

  • Replacement pockets come as whole pockets. You can cut them down to the size you require or use them to replace the whole pocket if needed.
  • We are concentrating on trouser pockets here but the same method, and replacement pockets, can be used to repair pockets in trousers, skirts, jeans, dresses, jackets and more. Just check the pocket sizes against your garment as each one differs.
  • In this post we are using two different products, a sew-in version and an iron-on version. It is up to you to choose which is the most suitable for your needs.
  • The sew in pockets are trickier to use and require some sewing knowledge but they will last a very long time.
  • The iron on pockets are far simpler to use and don’t require any sewing at all but the repair may not last as long as sewn in pockets.
  • These pockets are are suitable to replace cotton, nylon, or polyester pockets.

    You Will Need:

    How to replace a pocket : The Sew In Method

     

     

    • Identify where the hole is in your pocket.
      • Draw a line in a washable fabric pen just above the damage.
      • If the pocket flap is stitched into the side seam, cut along this edge 1cm.
    •  Trim the damaged part of the pocket away along the line you have drawn.

    Trim the damaged part of the pocket away along the line you have drawn.

    • To mark the new pocket:
      • Lay the replacement pocket underneath the original pocket, lining up the edges. 
      • Make sure the folded edge is lined up with the folded edge of the original pocket and the seamed edge with the side seam. 
      • Allow for as much additional pocket bag as you wish to add.
      • Pin the two pockets together
      • Using the fabric marker, trace the edge of the original pocket onto the replacement pocket. 
    • Turn the raw edges outwards and line them up so that the new pocket and original line up. 
    • Stitch along the circumference to join the two pockets together using a 1cm seam allowance. 
    • Finish the raw edges in your preferred way, either pinking, zigzag stitch, overcasting stitch, or overlocker, to prevent fraying. 
    • Press the seam
    • Top stitch the side edge back to the side seam of the trousers to finish your mending project.

    If you would like to repair your pocket by hand sewing then check out Hemline’s video here

    How to replace a pocket : The Iron On  Method

    1. Start in the same way as you did with the sew in pocket.
    • Mark a line above where the damage is and cut along this line.
    • If your pocket is sewn into the side seam, cut along this edge approx. 1.5cm.
    1. Insert the bottom edge of the pocket into the replacement pocket, making sure the adhesive tape covers the pocket fabric.
    • Pin it in place.
    • Using a hot iron and a damp cloth press the adhesive tape pressing firmly
    1. Repeat the pressing on both sides of the pocket making sure to heat all of the tape.
    • Leave the pocket to cool for 10-20 minutes before moving it, allowing the adhesive to bond properly.

    Your pocket repair is complete!

     

    You can also check out Hemline’s video on how to use this product here

    We hope you found that helpful! Do let us know how you get on if you repair a pocket

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    Washable & Reusable Bin Liner Sewing Tutorial

    Washable & Reusable Bin Liner Sewing Tutorial

    by | May 11, 2022 | My Makes, Project Ideas, PUL Projects, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

    We’re always looking for new ways to go zero waste here at Plush Towers & one item we have been keen to ditch is the plastic waste-bin liner and we have been looking for a reusable alternative…

    As the world, quite rightly, moves away from single use plastic bags that at one time many of us used to line small waste bins we have been pondering what a zero-waste replacement could be. We thought it was time to unleash into the world a tutorial for a reusable & washable waste bin liner!

    This washable bin liner is the perfect zero-waste solution for all those light use bins in the bedroom, office or bathroom…

    Reusable Bin Liner Sewing Tutorial

     

    Anatomy of the washable bin liner

    Outer Fabric: We’ve used waterproof PUL as the lining fabric in this project.

    Why this fabric you might ask?! We figured it was the perfect fabric choice for handling lightly soiled bathroom items such as cotton pads or ears buds. Choosing waterproof PUL means there there won’t be any unwanted leaks through to the exterior of the bin liner…

    It also means if you live with people that insist on chucking away their banana skins in their bedrooms that get buried & forgotten about you won’t get any leaky food waste either, ha!

    Lining Fabric: For the liner outer we’ve used calico as it’s economical , but you can use any cotton. This part of the liner generally won’t be seen (unless your bin has lots of hole in it) so this is a great opportunity to use up your stash, or this as a great chance re-purpose or upcycle some other fabric.

    Contrast Fabric: We wanted to give you the option to make it pretty so we’ve used a small amount of quilting fabric as an accent to give you the chance to match to your decor, or add a touch of personality to your bin. This fabric is actually part of the lining but appears on the exterior of the bin once folded over.

    The whole liner is held securely in place by fold over elastic at the liner’s opening edge.

    The method we’ve described in this tutorial would also work perfectly for washing baskets, laundry baskets, nappy bins, kitchen bins… You can use the same method for storage baskets (any size) to prevent leaking, damage, snags & scrapes!

    We’re going to show you how to draft a pattern for a circular 3D vessel – in this case your waste bin – which you can apply to a variety of other storage projects! Follow along and you can draft your own pattern to fit any size circular bin or basket.

    By using a liner you will be reducing your plastic use and waste, and become more conscious as to what waste you are producing, sewing a sustainable and useful project! 

    How to launder your reusable bin liner

    • We recommend that your fabrics are pre-washed before you start this project.
    • This liner is designed for light use waste bins so it can usually be laundered at 30 degrees.
    • If you decide to use it for “messier” bins that might harbour higher bacterial growth, you can launder these fabrics at 60 degrees but it’s imperative you pre-wash everything at that temperature first. Washing consistently at 60 degrees may reduce the life of the cotton fabrics.
    • We recommend air drying this project after laundering. We do not recommend tumble drying PUL as regular tumble drying can delaminate PUL fabric over time.

    A sewing project for Adventurous Beginners

    Finished Dimensions: Depends on the size of your bin – we used this bin [affiliate link]

    With the following dimensions: Dia 25.5cm x H 31cm / Dia 10” x H 12”

    Approximate sewing time: An afternoon

    Important Notes:

    • Pre-wash your fabrics
    • 1cm ⅜” seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
    • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
    • We have overlocked our seams but if you don’t have an overlocker you can check out this post for other seam finishing ideas
    • When top stitching – use a 3-3.5mm length & stitch approx 3mm from the seam
    • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice
    • RST = Right Sides Together
    • WST = Wrong Sides Together
    • Read through the instructions fully before starting
    • Please note that pins can create permanent holes in PUL. we recommend using clips

    You Will Need:

    The requirements given below are enough for a similarly sized bin to this bin which measures Diameter 25.5cm x Height 31cm / Diameter 10” x Height 12”

    If your bin is a different size draw the pattern out and then calculate what you need from the pattern.

    Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

    Draw Your Reusable Bin Liner Pattern

    1. Measure & draft the pattern pieces for your bin:

    You need to take a few measurements to work out how to draw your pattern pieces. We realised this can seem daunting for some people so we’ve worked hard to make it as accessible and easy to follow as we can.

    We’ve put together:

    • A video (below) for those that prefer visual instruction
    • Detailed written instructions & a handy printable which has a calculations table for you to complete with your own bin measurements. Use this for fool proof pattern drafting!
    • A worked example

    The video & printable are designed to work together and compliment each other.

    Request the pattern drafting printable

    Measure your bin

    Cutting Out The Fabrics

    Cut the following :

    • From Fabric A (Contrast Top): 4 x Contrast Top rectangles
    • From Fabric B (Calico Cotton) : 2 x side panels & 1 x base circle
    • From Fabric C (PUL lining): 2 x sides and 1 x base circle
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    3. Constructing the reusable bin liner

    • With RST, sew the side seams of the 2 x calico side panels  together, using a 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance
    • Repeat for the PUL side panels
    • Mark the quarter points: On both outer & lining sewn side panels & the base circles, mark ¼ points :
      • On the side panels, fold the fabric on the seam & smooth & fold it across; the seam line is a one-quarter point & the fold crease is another. Bring those points together & smooth the fabric out to the sides; mark where the next 2 folds form.
      • For the base circle, fold it in half, make marks at each end of the fold line. Fold it in half again and mark both layers of fabric where they fold.
    • Take the PUL side panel & base & match up the marked 1/4 points & pin
    • Now pin the fabric between the ¼ points, using the snips to help ease the fabric around the outer edge if you need to. Align the fabric edges & pinning where the seam line will be sewn will help accuracy.
    • Sew in place using a 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance. If you have a walking foot use this as it will help if the fabric is slippery. You could also use your overlocker if you have one.
    • Repeat the same steps on the Calico side panels & base circle
    • Add the contrast panel: Take 2 of the top contrast panels & place RST. At the shorts ends sew in place using a 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance. This will create two fabric “loops”.
    • Repeat for the other 2 top contrast panels. You should now have 2 “loops” in the contrast fabric
    • With RST, pin one top contrast loop to the Calico part of the liner along the top of the exterior bin liner, matching at the seams. Sew in place around the loop.
    • Repeat, sewing the remaining top contrast loop to the the PUL part of the liner.
    • Put the PUL lining of the bin liner, wrong sides together with the Calico exterior. Line up the 2 x top contrast panels, match at the seams & pin. Baste the outer and lining together at the top
    • Attach the fold over elastic: Take your bin and pull the elastic firmly around the part of the bin where the top contrast fold over will sit. Measure where it fits comfortably and then take a few cm off this length so that when in place, the bin liner will fit snugly to the bin & keep the liner in place.

    Measure Fold Over Elastic

    • Apply the fold over elastic using your preferred method: Please refer to our post here for detailed instructions on the different methods you can use to apply fold over elastic.

     

    DIY Reusable & Washable Bin Liner

     

    And you’re finished, well done!

    Feeling proud? Show us your makes! Tag us @PlushAddict on your favourite social media channel!

    How To Use Waistband Extenders – No Sew! Care & Repair Series #2

    How To Use Waistband Extenders – No Sew! Care & Repair Series #2

    by | Apr 27, 2022 | Care and Repair, Haberdashery, Haberdashery Guides, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing

    Welcome to post number 2 in our Care & Repair Series! Today we’re offering a solution to a common problem – how to really quickly and easily extend a waistband… without any sewing! We’ll highlight this little wonder product and run you through why you might need them and how to use these waistband extenders.

    Let’s be real. The pandemic has meant that many of us have put on some extra pounds and clothes might have become a little snug!

    Or perhaps you’re in the early stages of pregnancy and could do with an extra bit of room before buying some maternity clothes?

    And let’s not forget – some days we’re just bigger than others… This can be due to our monthly cycles, or perhaps eating certain foods can make you bloat.

    You might need some extra comfort post-surgery, or just after a jolly good meal! Or perhaps something has shrunk in the wash (that old chestnut…!)

    Our bodies can even fluctuate in size from day to day so a quick temporary fix can help ease discomfort.

    We wanted to bring this little wonder products to your attention – who knew they were even a thing?!

    And as these nifty little extenders are a NO SEW temporary fix it means they can even be switched between garments to extend their life.

    With this series of Care & Repair blogs we really want to bring into focus ways in which we can all reuse, repurpose, repair and rejuvenate the clothes that are already in our wardrobes.

    300,000 tonnes of discarded clothing goes to landfill every year in the UK, making up 5% of the UK’s carbon and water footprint, according to Wrap, the waste charity. There’s never been a more important tome to make do and mend.

    Being able to easily adjust the size of waistbands can help give them an extra lease of life and also improve their comfort by adding a little extra room. The wasit band extenders generally give you and extra will extend the waistline by approximately 2.5cm- 5cm on your waist band and are suitable for trousers, jeans or skirts.

    No need to replace perfectly good garments that haven’t worn out; this is better for our wallets and for the planet – win win!

    Extenders are not permanent fixtures to your garments so they can easily be switched out as required. Just make sure you remove them before laundering!

    The waist extenders come in a variety of options…. make sure you select the best match for your garment.

    You can also link multiple extenders together to achieve the level of fit you require – read to the end of this post to see this in action…

    How to use waist band extenders

      1. Select the Waist Band Extender product which best matches the fastening and colour of your garment. There are button, hooks and jean button products to choose from

    Waistband Expander

    2. Thread the existing fastening through one of the holes on the extender piece

    3. Thread the fastening on the extender through the garment hole

    Voila! Extra comfort at the waist in a jiffy!

    Check out Hemline’s video here to see how the hook product works

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    Linking Waistband Extenders Together

    Should you need even greater ease at the waistband, the extenders can be looped together to create a larger stretch like this.

    See how easy it is to prolong the life of your garment if it’s become a bit snug!

    Free Tea Cosy Pattern

    by | Mar 23, 2022 | My Makes, Project Ideas, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

    Hands up if you love a cuppa! Drinking tea is almost a compulsory part of being British, isn’t it?! I love a cuppa and can’t start my day without one. There’s just something about the ceremony of a pot of tea… So my blog wouldn’t be complete without a Free Tea Cosy Pattern, now would it?!

    We get a lot of questions about the best choice of wadding for a tea cosy so we’ll be talking about that too…

     

    Free Tea Cosy Sewing Pattern

    When I was making up the samples of this I tried a couple of different tabs for the top and I couldn’t decide which to go for – so I’ve included both!

    There’s a cute little folded grab handle, or a hanging loop – you decide!

    The contrast band at the bottom is an easy way to elevate the visual interest of this tea cosy, and to use up some pretty coordinating fat quarters.

    Equally, you could just use the lining pattern piece for both the outer and lining of the tea cosy if you wanted to simplify.

    Request your free copy of the tea cosy sewing pattern here

    Send me the Free Tea Cosy Sewing Pattern

    Please note: This pattern has been designed to print on A4 paper

    Sewing Skill Level: Beginner

    Finished Tea Cosy Dimensions: approx 35cm wide x 25cm high

    Approximate sewing time: a couple of hours

    You will need

    Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

    Make Life Easier With

    Important notes:

    • 1cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
    • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
    • When top stitching – use a 3-3.5mm length & stitch approx 3mm from the seam
    • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice
    • WST = Wrong Sides Together
    • RST = Right Sides Together
    • Read through the instructions fully before starting 
    • Disclaimer:
      • Heat and steam will build up within the finished tea cosy, care should be observed when removing it and handling the teapot. To prevent mildew formation, turn tea cosies inside out to release condensation and excess moisture between uses.
      • Insul-Bright is heat resistant not heatproof.
      • Insul-Bright must not be used in the microwave
      • Insul-Bright may dull blades or scissors that cut it

    What’s the best choice of wadding for a tea cosy?

    In truth, you can use any kind of wadding in a tea cosy but I can highly recommend using thermal wadding like Insul-Bright. It’s clever stuff as it keeps hot things hot, and cold things cold!

    I’ve used Insul-Bright in all of my tea cosies and can confirm that it definitely keeps a pot of tea at a hotter temperature for longer

    1.    Print & Assemble The Tea Cosy Sewing Pattern

    • If you’ve not already got the free tea cosy pattern, you can request it here
    • Print the pattern on A4 Paper and tape the pages of the pattern together like the diagram below matching the circles

    This pattern has been designed to print on A4 paper. Use the 1” or 2cm test squares to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check your print settings. Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the ‘fit to page’ option

    2. Cut Out The Fabrics

    Using the pattern pieces cut out the following:

    • Lining: Cut 2 x lining fabric and 2 x Insul-Bright
    • Outer Contrast: Cut 2 x Outer Contrast Fabric
    • Outer Main: Cut 2 x Outer fabric
    • Hanging Loop or Grab Tab : Cut one of either the hanging loop OR the Grab Tab from contrast fabric

    3. Make the Grab Tab or Hanging Loop

    You have a choice of top accent to make –

    1. A grab tab
    2. A hanging loop

    Pick your fave option! But you only need to cut and make one…

    Option 1: Make the Grab Tab
    • Fold the Grab Tab piece in half and press
    • Find the centre point along the folded edge and finger press
    • Bring the 2 outer corners at the folded edge to meet the centre crease line and press to make a point at the fold
    Option 2: Make the Hanging Loop
    • Place the loop piece right side down, fold over and press 1cm of fabric along the two long sides
    • Fold the loop in half lengthways with the raw edges inside and press
    • Sew along the 2 sides of the loop, 2mm from the edge
    • Fold the loop in half and baste 1cm from the raw edges

    4. Assemble The Outer Panels

    • One at a time, clip or pin the Outer Main and Outer Contrast pieces together, right sides facing along the straight edge
    • Press the seam allowances open
    • Fold one of the outer panels in half and mark the centre top
    • Clip the hanging loop (or grab tab) at the centre top of the prepared outer panel, raw edges aligned, loop (or tab) facing downwards and baste in place
    • Line up the 2 prepared outer panels right sides together and clip/ pin around the curved edge
    • Sew the 2 panels together, leaving the bottom open
    • Using pinking shears trim the seam allowance around the curved edge to 2mm from the seam line. Or cut the seam allowance to 1cm then clip small V shaped notches in the seam allowance at 1.5cm intervals. They should be 5mm wide narrowing to a point stopping just before the seam line
    • Turn out the right way and press the seam allowances open. A Tailors Pressing Ham can make pressing curves much easier

    5. Assemble the lining panels

    • Clip 1 piece of Insul-bright onto the wrong side of each lining panel
    • Baste all the way round each panel with a 5mm seam allowance, stitch length 4 or 5 to hold the Insul-Bright in place
    • Sew the lining panels right sides together along the curved edge, leaving the bottom open
    • Clip around the curved edge 
    • Cut the seam allowance to 0.5cm with pinking shears/ rotary blade OR clip small V shaped notches in the seam allowance at 1.5cm intervals. They should be 5mm wide narrowing to a point stopping just before the seam line.

     6. Assemble the tea cosy

    • Take the tea cosy outer and place inside the lining, right sides together taking care to line up the side seams
    • Clip round the bottom edge of the tea cosy, opening the seam allowances at the side seams
    • Sew around the bottom of the tea cosy leaving a 10cm turning gap
    • Reduce the bulk at the bottom of the tea cosy by trimming away the Insul-Bright from the bottom seam. Applique Scissors can make this easier
    • Turn the tea cosy out the right way and clip the opening closed
    • Top stitch all the way round the bottom of the tea cosy 5mm from the edge

    And you’re finished, well done!

    How to Repair Bra Hooks: Care & Repair Series #1:

    How to Repair Bra Hooks: Care & Repair Series #1:

    by | Mar 19, 2022 | Care and Repair, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

    Have you ever wondered if you can repair bra hooks when they get mangled in the wash? Or how you can save a bra that’s perfectly fine, but needs its bra clasp replacing? Keep reading and we’ll give you instructions on how you can quickly & easily complete a bra hook repair.

    In this post you’ll find a full colour tutorial on how you can replace a bra back – it’s really not that tricky either. Yay!

    This is the first post in our new Care & Repair Series…. we hope you find the series useful

    There’s never been a more important time to look after our belongings and Make Do And Mend

    Being able to repair our clothes rather than just replace them is one of the biggest things we can do to contribute to saving our planet right now, and we know so many of our readers are eco-conscience Seam-Stars 💚

    We’ll be publishing a series of helpful Care & Repair tutorials this year which will not only benefit your pocket, but also the planet.

    We’ll be covering topics such as replacing pockets, mending and patching, replacing zips and more!

    But if you’re already a mending whizz and you have some clothes to repair you can check out our really comprehensive care and repair range of products over on the website

    Back to the bras!

    Bras are a garment that every woman owns & wears almost all the time. This means your bras can suffer a great deal of wear and tear. One of the most common things to break over time on a bra are the fastening hooks.

    By repairing your bra hooks on the bras that you already own you can save money AND help reduce waste sent to landfill!

    Read on for info on how to replace your damaged bra hooks rather than have to fork out for another expensive bra!

    Check our full range of Care & Repair products here

    How To Repair Bra Hooks: A Sewing Tutorial
    • Skill level: Beginner
    • Approximate sewing time: It’s a super quick fix!
    Tips To Consider When Replacing Your Bra Clasp
    • Make sure to match your replacement hooks with the original hooks in number and size as best you can
    • Even if only one side of your bra fastening is damaged, make sure you replace both so that the hooks and eyes match up.
    •  The Bra Back replacements come in various different options, 19mm (1 hook), 28mm (2 hooks), 38mm (2 hooks), and 50mm (3 hooks) widths in black, white, and nude. Check out the full range here and select one that matches the bra to be repaired
    • To select the correct size for your bra, measure the width of the current hook and eye parts of your bra and select the width closest to it.
    • It is always best to go a little wider than too narrow, unless it means you will be sewing through a hook or eye.
    • Colour wise, select the colour that best fits the bra. If your bra is a different colour than what is on offer, I suggest selecting the colour which is closest to patterns in the bra, or if it is plain then opt for black if it is a dark colour and white if a pale one

    You Will Need:

    1 Hemline Replacement Bra Back. We used Hemline Bra Back Replacement: 50mm: Nude

    Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

    How to repair bra hooks

    1. 1. Remove the original hooks and eyes on both sides of the bra back.

    1.2. Take the hook portion of the kit and position it on the right side of the bra back (as you look at it).

    • – Fold it around the raw end so that the hooks are on the inside of the back and are laying along the edge.
    • – Pin in place through all layers. If your replacement hook tape is slightly wider than the back of the bra you may wish to hem the edges and turn it through to create a pocket for the bra back instead.
    • – Here, the hooks are slightly narrower than the bra back. I will show you how to rectify this in a moment.
    1. 3. Change the presser foot on your machine to a zipper foot as this will enable you to stitch without the hooks getting in the way of the foot.
      1. – Stitch a line of straight stitch through all layers to hold them in place.
      2. Increase your stitch length to 3-3.5 – don’t worry if the stitches are a little messy.
      3. – You may need to use the point of your embroidery scissors or a Curved Tailors Awl to help feed the fabric through your machine as the bra is so small it may not catch on all of the feed dogs. The fabric seams can also be quite bulky.
      4. – Be careful not to keep your scissors away from the needle!

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    1. 4. Now the hook part is secure, remove the pin.
    1. 5. Keeping the zipper foot on your machine, select a narrow zig zag stitch. Here, I have changed the stitch width to 2.5mm and stitch length to 0.5mm.
      • – Run a line of zigzag stitching along the line of straight stitch and the edge of the hook tape.
      • – The satin stitch will cover up the straight stitch

    1.6. If the back of your bra is slightly wider han the hook tape as with my bra pictured, push the ends of the bra inside the fold of the hook tape with a needle or stitch ripper.

    • – Use the same zigzag stitch along the edges of the bra back, catching the bra back fabric into the hook tape, and neatening the edges.

    1.7. To replace the eye side of the bra fastening you have a couple of choices, depending on your skill level and how you would like to finish the bra repair.

    • The eye part of the bra fastening comes attached to elastic. If you prefer not to have this elastic you can unpick the zigzag seam holding it as indicated by the point of my scissors in the image below.
    • If you choose to do this you would attach the eye part to the bra in exactly the same way as with the hooks, only with the eyes facing the right side of the left bra back.
    1. 8. You may wish to keep the elastic in. This is a bonus, especially if the original hooks and eyes were damaged due to the bra fitting too tightly.
      • – By using the elastic, you are creating more ease in the bra back for a more comfortable fit and also protecting the new hooks and eyes from resulting in similar damage.
      • – If you are keeping the elastic in you will need to trim it down to the length that you will need. Add 2cm on to your desired length.
    1. 9. Place the left side bra back right side down and lay the raw edge of the elastic over the top, also face down, overlapping by 1cm. Pin in place.
    1. 10. Change your machine presser foot back to your universal foot and stitch a line of straight stitch through all layers to secure the eye elastic to the bra back.

    1.11. Lay the bra back right side facing down and fold the eye piece back on itself, towards the body of the bra.

    • Next fold it back on itself again to the outside of the bra, enclosing the raw edges inside the rolled seam. Pin in place.
    1. 12. Sew a line of stitching down each long edge of the rolled fabric to create a sort of fell seam.
      • – This will be very bulky and challenging to push under the machine foot so you may wish to use the point of your embroidery scissors again, or a Curved Tailors Awl to assist it through, again, being very careful!
    1. 13. Now, fix the hooks and eyes together and your bra repair is complete

    And you’re finished, well done!

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    Sew A Spa Set Series #6: Sew Reusable Cotton Pads

    Sew A Spa Set Series #6: Sew Reusable Cotton Pads

    by | Mar 5, 2022 | Bamboo towelling, Care and Repair, My Makes, Project Ideas, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

    As we all start to look at simple ways we can reduce our waste, the bathroom is a great place to make some simple swaps! Did you know that disposable make up remover pads can often contain plastic?! Switching to reusable cotton pads is a quick and easy swap to help reduce your waste.

    This tutorial is part of our  Sew A Spa Set Series – check the  Intro post  to see what else you can make for a relaxing day or evening pampering yourself, or a loved one and would make a great gift.

    This project is also a great little scrap buster!

    Reusable cotton pads

    We’ve used bamboo towelling rather than cotton towelling here (but who’s heard of Bamboo Pads?!) so we’re using poetic license when we’re calling these cotton pads…

    There’s a good reason why we’re using bamboo though – it’s far more sustainable than cotton. Read more about Bamboo Towelling’s eco-credentials in our full guide here

    There are 6 items that make up the Spa Set and if you’re pushed for time, each of these handmade items would make a great small gift on their own.

    Sew A Spa Set banner

    You can use out template or size up, or change the shape to a square (and make up using the same process) to make reusable baby wipes or rounds.

    We hope you enjoy sewing and gifting these handmade items!

    Important Notes:
    • 1cm /  ⅜” seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
    • We used an overlocker to finish our seams. If you don’t have an overlocker check out this post for other seam finishing options
    • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
    • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice – we recommend pre-washing all fabrics used in this project as they will be used to make items that will be washed frequently

    To make One Reusable Cotton Pad

    Sewing Kit You Will Need:

    Making the Reusable Cotton Pads

    1. Pre-wash your fabrics

    We recommend pre-washing all fabrics used in this project as they will be used to make items that will be washed frequently

    2. Print the cotton pad templates

    Print off the Spa Set Templates ensuring you print at 100%. If you haven’t already, request your pattern here.

    Please note: This free pattern has been sized to print on A4 paper.

    3. Cut your fabrics & notions

    To make one pad cut out:

    • 1x Circle from Bamboo Towelling
    • 1x Circle from Patterned Cotton
    • 1x Back loop from Patterned Cotton
    4. Assemble The Cotton Round

    Sew the loop

    • On the loop pattern piece, fold the long edges over 1cm / ⅜” and press.

    Making the makeup rounds step 1

    • Fold the entire rectangle lengthwise again to the middle and press.

    Making the makeup rounds step 2

    • Top stitch down both sides of the rectangle.

    Making the makeup rounds step 3

    Making the makeup rounds step 4

    Assemble the pad

    • Pin the rectangle to RS (right side) of the Cotton fabric circle of your pad. Make sure there is a little space to slide your fingers between the loop and the pad, this will mean the loop is not flat against the pad.
    Making the makeup rounds step 5
    • Baste the edges where the rectangle meets the circle edge.
    • Place the bamboo towelling circle RS together with the Cotton circle, sandwiching the loop in between. Pin in place and stitch around the circle with a 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance, leaving an opening to turn it out the right way.
    Making the makeup rounds step 6
    Making the makeup rounds step 7
    • Pink or clip the seam allowance. Turn the pad out through the opening you left. 
    Making the makeup rounds step 8
    • Fold in the seam allowance at the opening.
    • Top stitch 3mm / ⅛” around the edge of the circle to finish and close the opening.
    Making the makeup rounds step 9
    Making the makeup rounds step 10

    And you’re finished, well done!

    We’re nearly there! We hope you’ve enjoyed our Sew A Spa Set Series so far. The very last tutorial is a Round Makeup Bag to store all of your handmade goodies in!

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