Centered Zip Tutorial For Beginners

by Kellie Rose | Mar 19, 2021 | My Makes, Tutorials

Have you ever sewn a centred zip? It’s a great zip for beginners to start off with and it’s really not that hard so we’ve put together this Centered Zip Tutorial for you.

If you’re sewing a centred zipper for the first time or want to gain confidence in inserting them, this great tutorial contains a few tips and tricks to help you sew a centred zip.

Once you’ve mastered lining up the zipper tape, which can be the trickiest part, you’ll be able to insert a zipper with confidence and experiment with different types.

Zips! The most frequent task we are asked for help with. And something many get nervous about. With practice and a few surprising tools to hand they aren’t as tricky as you think.

What is a Centred Zip?

A centred zip is a type of zipper insertion in which the zip teeth are centred between the fabric. The fabric covers the sides of the zipper equally meeting in the middle and you are able to see the stitch on either side of the zip.

How to Sew a Centred Zip

Skill Level: Adventurous Beginner

You Will Need:

A simple zip project; try our cushion tutorial here or a pencil case.
A zip 1″ longer than needed, the length of the zip refers to the zip teeth, do not include the tape ends.
Contrasting thread for basting
Matching thread for sewing
Zipper foot
Medium weight interfacing

Optional additional resources:

Ghost tape (cloudy sticky tape/ Scotch Tape)
Lint roller

Top Tip:
While getting the hang of zips, insert them as the first step of your project; it’s far easier to work with flat fabric and it takes the pressure off any potential ‘whoops’ moments.

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Step 1:

Apply a strip of interfacing to each side of the zip opening*. The 2 strips need to be the full length and width of the zip, not exceeding the length of the fabric.

Step 2:

Tidy the raw edges of the zip opening. Use a non-bulky method; zig zag stitch or overlocking are ideal.

Step 3:

Clip the 2 sides of the zip opening right sides together.

Step 4:

Baste along the zip opening with a 1.5cm seam allowance and contrasting thread.

Step 5:

Press the seam open.

*interfacing is not needed for heavier weight fabrics unless they are loosely woven.

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Step 6:

Align the zipper teeth along the seam line. Position the zip pull side down zip bar at the bottom of the project, pull overhanging the top.

Step 7:

Tape the zip in place.

Step 8:

Starting at the top of the project nearest the zip pull, begin sewing using a 2.5 straight stitch length and a zipper foot. Backstitch at the start then sew down to the bottom of the zip. If the zip has a metal bar be careful near the bottom.

Step 9:

Stop sewing just below the bottom bar. Turn and sew across the bottom carefully. Backstitch for added strength.

Step 10:

Turn and sew along the other side of the zip teeth to the top and backstitch

Step 11:

Turn the project over and unpick the basting stitches using a seam ripper. Remove all loose threads (a lint roller can help with this) then test the zip.

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How do I sew a centered zip into a project?

To sew the centered zip into the project, vertically pin the opening end of the zip in place then unzip it by 3cm or more before sewing. Carefully backstitch when sewing over the zipper teeth. Excess zip tape can then be cut off.

Zip tips

The edge of the zip foot should run alongside the zipper teeth with the needle on the side closest to the teeth.

Start sewing on the side that has the least bulk under the sewing machine arm.

To keep the zip tape/ seam aligned, sew slowly, keep the edge of the zip tape at the same depth along the seam allowance, the edge or the seam tidying can provide a guideline. Use the presser foot as a guide for keeping the seamline straight; part of it may align with the zipper teeth or part of the zip tape.

If alignment is still proving tricky, try sewing from the right side of the fabric, mark just above the bottom bar with a pin to mark where to stop.

We hope you found this centered zip tutorial useful!

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more step-by-step tutorials!

Upcycled Denim Bag Tutorial

by Kellie Rose | Mar 16, 2021 | Denim, My Makes, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

If you have some tired looking jeans, their destination doesn’t need to be the charity rag bag yet. Give them a new lease of life with a transformation into this fabulous handbag using this upcycled denim bag tutorial.

Treat yourself to a new bag – from old jeans!

There is a massive selection of bag hardware & accessories here at Plush Addict, so let your creativity flow and produce a one of a kind masterpiece.

Skill level: Intermediate Seam-Star

You will need:

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable upcycled denim bag tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Important notes for sewing the upcycled denim bag:

1.5 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.

Pre-wash your fabrics

You will need a strong sewing machine for steps 19 and 24, some machines may struggle with these steps

Please note: The images and video clips were taken during pattern testing, if the pattern pieces appear a different size to your’s and the steps sequenced differently, don’t panic & trust the instructions!

Print and cut the pattern

1. Sign up here to be emailed the pattern piece file.

Use the 1” test square to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check print settings. Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the ‘fit to page’ option.

Cut your fabrics

2. Using the pattern, cut out the following from BOTH outer & lining fabrics:

2 Side panels
2 Top panels
1 Base panel
From outer only:
2 D ring tabs

If you would like to read our full guide with tips on sewing denim fabric, check out our fabric guide here

Read Our Full Denim Fabric Guide

Top tips:

Some denim has graduated fading, before sewing lay out the pieces and plan which direction you want the graduations to flow on your finished denim upcycled bag.
Unpick the inside leg seams on jeans to lie them flat

Check your zip

3. Open and close the zip to ensure it moves freely.

Assemble the zip panel

4. Place one top panel outer piece right side up. Align the edge of the zipper tape with the edge of the top panel right side down. Set the open end of the zip 1.5cm back from the end of the panel. Clip the zip in place

5. Baste along the edge of the zipper tape, the full length of the top panel, with a 5mm seam allowance. Use a zipper foot, stitch length 4.

6. Align a top panel lining piece right side down with the basted seam and outer top panel piece. The 2 top panel pieces should be right sides facing with the zip sandwiched between them.

7. Using a zipper foot sew the three layers together with a 1cm seam allowance.

8. Top stitch alongside the zip on the outer fabric only; using a zipper foot sew along the outer fabric 2mm from the edge.

9. Repeat steps 4 to 8 for the other side of the zip using the remaining top panel pieces.

10. At the end of the zip panel (not the end where the pull lies when the zip is fastened), hand-sew several stitches around the end of the zipper teeth as a zip bar. Any excess zipper tape can then be cut off; be careful and use domestic scissors when cutting through the teeth.

11. Measure the total width of the assembled zip panel. If the width exceeds 10cm trim equal amounts of each side to achieve the correct width. For example, if the total panel width is 12cm, trim 1cm off each side.

Form the D ring tabs

12. Fold each piece in half along the long edge wrong sides together and press.

13. Open the tabs back out and fold the short edges to the central crease and press.

14. Fold the tabs in half again with the raw edges tucked inside and press.

15. Top stitch 2mm from the edge along the 2 longest sides.

16. Lay the base panel outer piece over the zip panel. Fold a D ring tab in half and thread one of the D rings onto it so the straight edge of the D ring sits in the crease.

17. Position the D ring tab along the short edge of the base panel. Using the zip panel as a guide, position the tab so it sits to one side of the zipper teeth and clip in place on the base panel only.

18. Repeat steps 16 and 17 with the other D ring tab, positioning it at the other end of the base panel on the other side of the zipper teeth.

19. Sew the D ring tabs in place with a 1cm seam allowance. Backstitch over each one twice to create 4 lines of stitching.

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable upcycled denim bag tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Assemble the central panel

20. At each corner of the outer base panel on the wrong side, make a mark 1.5cm in from the long edge.

21. Align the pieces in the following order:

Base panel lining, right side up
Zip panel, right side up
Base panel outer, right side down

22. Line up the short edges at one end and clip them together.

23. Line up and clip the short edges at the other end together.

24. Sew along the short edges between the markings from step 20.

We have used a zipper with plastic chunky teeth (we love this look!) When sewing over the ends of this type of zip the fabric may need moving forward manually to create a longer stitch:

To do this – Sew to the side of the zipper teeth, raise the needle, lift the presser foot and move the fabric enough for the needle to enter the fabric on the other side of the zipper teeth. If you are using a zip with nylon coil teeth then you should be able to sew straight over the zip teeth.

Reverse this step to go back over the zipper then come forward again to give added strength.

Caution: trying to sew through zipper teeth can break sewing needles, which may result in injury.

25. Turn the base panel outer piece to the back forming the finished central panel. Then turn the whole central panel inside out so the lining fabric is around the outside

26. Assemble the bag: Undo the zip then take one outer side panel and fold it in half along the long edge to find the centre bottom.

27. Find the centre of the bottom panel by lining up the 2 side seams from step 24 and folding the outer bottom panel in half.

28. Line up the 2 centre bottom points and clip right sides together. Continue clipping the central panel around the side panel piece.

29. At the corners make 1cm cuts into the central panel edge for ease around the curves.

30. Sew all the way around the bag side panel. To sew alongside the joins in the central panel (step 24) cast off and switch to a zipper foot and sew avoiding the lining fabric. Then switch back to a standard presser foot to continue sewing round.

31. At the 4 curved corners, make V shaped cuts in the seam allowance at 1cm intervals. They should be 5mm wide then narrow to a point just before the seam line. Then trim the corner seam allowance down to approx. 5mm

32. Repeat steps 26 to 31 with a lining piece.

33. Turn the bag to access the other side of the central panel and repeat steps 26 to 32. When sewing the final lining piece leave a 10cm opening along the bottom edge for turning.

Finishing touches

34. Turn the bag out the right way and press the seams, avoid the zipper teeth as the heat may damage them.

35. Find the opening in the lining and clip the 2 sides together. Either machine sew the opening or hand sew with ladder stitch.

36. Clip the strap through the 2 D rings and the upcycled denim bag is complete!

We used:

1 pair of jeans (leftover from our desk tidy project)
Lining: Makower line work in black
Chunky zip: 80cm Black and gold
Thread: Guterman recycled
D rings: Hemine gold 25mm
Bag strap: Glitter camoflage

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable upcycled denim bag tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Pin For Later!

15-Minute Upcycled Fabric Tray Tutorial

by Kellie Rose | Mar 15, 2021 | My Makes, Project Ideas, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

These cute little fabric trays are a great beginner project. They stitch up quickly and are a very handy cute little item to have dotted around your sewing room. Use them to catch threads or keep your little sewing notions tidy and easy to grab. Perfect as a quick gift, scrap buster and a short satisfying sew…

Aren’t they just the sweetest little things?

You will need:

An old pair of jeans
1 FQ Quilting cotton
Heavy Iron-on Interfacing or a woven interfacing. Vliseline G700 is great for this
Temporary fabric marker
Thread

3/8″/ 1cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed otherwise.

Step 1:

Decide which sized tray you are going to make. Cut your fabrics as per the the table :

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Cut the following based on the table above:

1 x square Denim Outer Fabrics

1 x square Inner quilting cotton

2 x squares Interfacing Squares

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Step 2: Iron on interfacing squares to the reverse side of both the denim outer & the quilt cotton fabric inner.

Step 3: With RST pin the outer and inner fabrics together

Step 4: Sew round the edge leaving a turning gap of approx 3-5 inches (depending on which sized tray you are making)

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Step 5: Trim the fabric on each corner diagonally to reduce bulk, taking care not to snip through your stitches

Step 6: Turn to the right side making sure your corners are crisp (Use a sturdy pin to dig out the excess fabric in the corners helps here)

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Pro Tip: The tool pictured above are Needle Grippers and they are SO helpful for turning out projects

Step 7: Press & pin the turning gap closed.

Step 8: Top Stitch all the way around the edge using a 3mm stitch approximately 1/8″ from the fabric edge , closing the turning gap.

Step 9: On both sides of every corner make a mark with a temporary fabric marker the distance from the corner as listed in the table below

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Step 9: Match up the 2 marks on each corner so the lining fabric is touching. Over stitch catching both sides of the tray. Repeat for all 4 corners.

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Congratulations! You’re done!

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How To: Sew An Eye Mask – Free Pattern!

by Kellie Rose | Jan 18, 2021 | My Makes, Tutorials

Raise your hands if you want to learn how to sew an eye mask. Eye masks are great if you need a little time to relax and unwind. They block out visual ‘noise’ around you as the darkness tricks your brain into the state of calm it associates with sleep.

Warning: Strangulation hazard, do not wear an eye mask when sleeping.

What You Will Need:

Minimum size for all the fabrics below: 25x13cm

A printed copy of the eye mask pattern

Cotton fabric(outer) We used fabrics from Dashwood Studio Our Planet

Fusible fleece (padding)

Smooth Plush fabric (backing)

1m 20mm wide Bias tape

50cm Velvet elastic ribbon

Thread

*Important Notes*

1.5 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, always backstitch at the start & end unless otherwise stated.

Pre-wash your fabrics

Disclaimer – Strangulation hazard, do not wear an eye mask when sleeping.

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Step 1: Print and cut the pattern

Download the pattern here

Use the 1” test square to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check print settings. Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the ‘fit to page’ option.

Step 2: Cut your fabrics

Cut out the following:

1 Mask front

1 Padding piece

1 Mask back

Use pins to mark the elastic positions on the mask back.

Step 3: Position the elastic

Cut the elastic to the required length (head measurement minus 19cm). Pin the ends of the elastic right sides together pointing outwards at the marked points. The right side of the velvet elastic ribbon is to be against your hair to provide traction and avoid slippage.

Step 4: Apply the fusible fleece

Iron the wrong side of the mask front onto the fusible fleece.

Step 5: Baste the piping

Baste the bias tape onto the front of the mask, clipping around the curves.

Step 6: Assemble the mask

Pin the mask front and back right sides together and sew leaving a 5cm turning gap at the top.

Step 7: Clip the curves

Clip the curves and trim the seam allowance to 1cm.

Step 8: Finishing touches

Turn the mask out the right way and press.

Topstitch 3mm from the edge.

Voila! You’re all done! We hope you feel proud of your accomplishment and will enjoy your new cushion.

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

download printable

Don’t forget to share your finished makes with us – tag us @PlushAddict as we LOVE seeing your projects!

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials.

How To: Sew A Piped Cushion With A Zip

by Kellie Rose | Jan 18, 2021 | My Makes, Tutorials

Do you agree that adding piping to your cushions elevates the look? If you’ve wondered how to sew piped cushions then we’re here to help!

Not only that, we’re going to walk you through how to sew a cushion with piping AND a zip! We’ve used woven interfacing to stabilise this cushion to make it so much easier

What You Will Need:

45cm square quilting cotton fabric

45x48cm quilting cotton for cushion back

0.5m Fusible interlining. Woven interlining gives best result

51cm Closed ended dress zip

2m Piping

Thread

If you are new to the wonders of Woven Interfacing then check out our full guide here

*Important notes*

1.5 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, always backstitch at the start & end unless otherwise stated.

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Step 1:

Cut out the following using the measurements above:

1 Cushion front and interlining the same size

1 Cushion back and interlining the same size

Step 2:

Apply the fusible interlining to the wrong side of the front and back cushion pieces following the manufacturers instructions.

Step 3:

Measure and mark a line 11.5cm from the shortest edge of the back piece.

Step 4:

Cut along the line to for the zip opening.

Step 5:

Tidy the 2 raw edges of the zip opening using an overlocker or zig zag stitch.

Step 6:

Clip or pin the 2 sides of the zip opening right sides together.

Step 7:

Baste along the zip opening (it’s important to use a large length stitch for easy stitch removal later) Use a 1.5cm seam allowance and contrasting thread.

Step 8:

Once stitched, Press the seam open.

Step 9:

Align the zipper teeth along the seam line.Position the zip pull side down zip bar at the bottom of the project, pull overhanging the top.

Step 10:

Tape or baste the zip in place.

Step 11:

Starting at the end nearest the zip pull, begin sewing using a 2.5 length straight stitch and a zipper foot. Backstitch at the start then sew down to the bottom of the zip. If the zip has a metal bar be careful near the bottom.

Step 12:

Stop sewing just below the bottom bar. Turn and sew across the bottom carefully. Backstitch for added strength.

Step 13:

Turn and sew along the other side of the zip teeth to the top and backstitch

Step 14:

Turn the cushion back over and unpick the basting stitches using a seam ripper. Remove all loose threads (a lint roller can help with this) then test the zip.

Step 15:

Fold the cushion front panel in half to find the bottom centre. Mark it with a pin.

Step 16:

On the right side of the cushion panel, pin the piping in place from the centre mark leaving a 5cm tail:

With the piping cord inwards, align the raw edges of the piping tape with the raw edge of the cushion front & pin in place.
Clip up to the piping stitch line in the piping tape to ease the piping around the corners.
Keep pinning until the pin mark is reached again. Don’t cut the tail end.

Step 17:

Baste the piping in place 8cm from the centre bottom mark. Stop sewing 8cm from the centre bottom leaving a 16cm gap. When sewing, use a zipper foot and sew close to the piping cord.

Step 18:

To join the piping take the tail from the right, move the left to one side. Position the piping tail along the bottom edge overlapping the centre bottom pin.

Step 19:

Align the crease of a spare piece of piping (or the other tail end) along the left of the pin. The spare piping should be at 90 degrees to the tape being attached.

Step 20:

Mark the piping to be attached along the left side of the tape from step 19.

Cut along the marking.

Step 21:

Repeat steps 18 to 20 for the left side, marking and cutting the tape right of the pin. The ends will form a small overlap

Step 22:

Unpick the 2 ends of the piping to the seamline from step 17.

Step 23:

Trim the ends of the cord, NOT the piping casing, to the pin mark.

Step 24:

Open out the ends of the piping casing. Line them up right sides facing at 90 degrees to each other in an L shape and pin.

Step 25:

Draw a line from the recessed casing corner on the left, to the recessed corner on the right. A triangle shape should form between the 2 outer edges and the drawn line.

Step 26:

Sew along the drawn line with a stitch length of 2.5, backstitching start and end.

Step 27:

Cut off the corner to leave a 5mm seam allowance and press the seam open. Tuck in and align the cord ends then finish basting the piping in place.

Step 28:

Align the cushion front and back rights sides together. Vertically pin the opening end of the zip then unzip it by 10cm.

Step 29:

Clip or pin the 4 sides of the cushion pieces together.

Step 30:

Sew the cushion front and back together using a zipper foot. Sew inside or along the basted piping seam to achieve a snug fit and hide the basting stitches Carefully backstitch over the 2 tape ends for strength.

Step 31:

Clip the corners and turn the cushion out the right way.

Step 32:

For a polished finish, press the completed cushion cover.

Voila! You’re all done! We hope you feel proud of your accomplishment and will enjoy your new cushion.

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

download printable

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Don’t forget to share your finished makes with us – tag us @PlushAddict as we LOVE seeing your projects!

We hope you enjoyed this tutorial!

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials!

15 Minute Napkin With Mitered Corners

by Kellie Rose | Dec 3, 2020 | My Makes, Quilt Fabric, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

Here’s how to make a 15 minute napkin with mitered corners. We’re continuing out theme of helping you create a more sustainable Christmas… Fabric napkins are a fabulous step into sustainability & will make your Christmas table look amazing!

With some clever folding, a coordinating runner & some homemade Christmas crackers you will create an incredible focal point for your Christmas feast.

Follow this tutorial & learn how to stitch a mitred corner in just 15 minutes!

And if you just wanna learn how to fold your napkins in to some fancy Christmas trees then scoot down to the bottom of the tutorial for the lowdown…

Check out the Christmas Tree Fold

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

We have also published a tutorial on how to make Reusable Christmas Crackers – check that out here

Make some reusable Christmas crackers!

Want a printable copy of this tutorial? No problem! Request it below & a copy will be sent direct to your in-box

Send ME a printable version

Reusable Christmas Napkin Tutorial

Skill Level: Beginner

To make ONE reusable napkin you will need:

1 x 49cm square of quilting cotton (we used fabrics from the Makower Joy collection)

Co-ordinating thread

Important notes:

1.5 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, always backstitch at the start & end unless otherwise stated.

Pre-wash your fabrics

1. Cut your fabric

Cut out a 49cm square of your chosen fabric

2. Press the edges

With the fabric facing wrong side up, turn over 2cm of fabric along each side & press.

Fold the raw edges under to the crease & press again forming a 1cm border around the napkin.

With the fabric facing wrong side up, turn over 2cm of fabric along each side & press.

Fold the raw edges under to the crease & press again forming a 1cm border around the napkin.

3. Mitre The Corners

Starting at one corner, open out the 2cm hem on both sides.

Fold over the corner, the creases will have formed a small square. Align the 2 sides of the small square with the two 2cm creases on the underside of the napkin. Finger press along the fold.