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What are Continuous Zips? A Product Guide

What are Continuous Zips? A Product Guide

Ever wondered what a continuous zip is?

Does adding a zip pull to zip tape seem daunting?

We’re here to help!

Here at Plush Addict we offer a huuuuge selection of zips for sewing to help your projects achieve the look you dreamt of!

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

With zipper tape choices ranging from rainbow to block colour… flat to flowery zip pulls, we’re sure to have something for your next project.

Read on for more info about what a continuous zip is, and why you might want to use one instead of a regular zip

Then… see our tutorial on how to add zip pulls to continuous zip tape… We’ve provided you with a photo tutorial, as well as a video demo at the end…

What is a continuous zip?

 

Continuous zips differ from others in that the zipper tape is sold by the metre, without zip pulls. This means you are able cut your zip to ANY size you like. It also means you can add TWO zipper pulls, cos… ya know… you have to love that look.

What are the benefits of a continuous zip?

 

Waste less: As you just use the amount of zip tape you need there is an environmental benefit to continuous zipper tape; with a little planning waste can be kept to a minimum and a length, with enough pulls ordered, can become multiple zips.

Any length: Cutting zip tape to size means you can have REALLY long zips!

Multiple zip pulls: It also means you can add TWO zipper pulls to your tape, giving you a funky zip just like this one

Greater personalisation – you can mix and match the zip tape and zip pulls to your heart’s desire

Looking for info on other zip types? Then check out our Zip Types Guide Post

Photo Tutorial: How To Attach Zipper Pulls to Zipper Tape

 

 

You will need:

We used:


Important notes

  • Some zip tape comes with a pull/ slider, check the item description for details.
  • When ordering zip pulls check they correspond with the tape size/ brand being purchased.

Method

1. Cut the tape to the required length. Use domestic scissors to cut through the teeth.

2. Pull the bottom 10cm of the zipper teeth apart.

3. With the back of the zip pull and back of the tape facing upwards thread 1 end of the tape into the zipper from the top. To make this easier angle the teeth into the pull from the side.

4. Repeat step 4. on the other side. Both sets of teeth want to sit toward the top of the clasp.

5. Keeping the 2 sides of teeth level with each other, hold the zip pull between one finger/ thumb then draw the 2 sides of the tape down through the pull with the other hand. The zip pull should then begin to move up the tape.

Alternatively, you may find it easier to place the zipper pull between the prongs of a fork (check out the video below!)

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6. Slide the pull toward the top of the tape (without coming off the other end) then pull it back down to check the zip works.

7. If 2 zip pulls are required, repeat steps 1. To 5. from the other end of the tape.

And you’re done!

 

Handy Hint

 

If you find yourself struggling using this method try using a fork to hold the zip pull for you: tuck the bar of the zip between the central teeth (not the clasp where the teeth need to go).

…And if your fork won’t stay still; hold it steady with a blob of blue-tack.

Video Tutorial: How To Attach Zipper Pulls to Zipper Tape

Check out our video on how to attach zipper pulls to continuous zipper tape

Want to learn how to sew a zip in?

 

Find our tutorial on the blog where you can learn how to sew a cushion with piping and a zip or why not try making this reading cushion?

We hope you found this tutorial useful!

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

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The Ultimate Guide To Hand and Machine Sewing Needles

The Ultimate Guide To Hand and Machine Sewing Needles

Tired of confusing needle types and struggling to understand needle size charts? Ringing a bell seam-star?

Well, the good thing is you’re not the only one! It can be suuuper duper confusing, especially if you’ve recently started sewing.

But every day is a school day, which is why we’ve put together a comprehensive guide to sewing needles to help you navigate the world of BOTH machine & hand sewing needles.

Or if you’re a seasoned seam-star this is a great refresher to brush up on your knowledge.

At Plush Addict we have an incredibly well stocked, extensive range in our online haberdashery and needles are no exception!

We stock a variety of types, sizes and brands of hand sewing and machine sewing needles.

We realise that all of this choice can be confusing to the uninitiated Seam-Star so we hope you find this Ultimate Guide To Needles valuable when making the right needle choice for your next sewing project.

Choosing The Correct Sewing Machine Needle

Sewing machine needle sizes – let’s demystify those numbers!

Have you ever wondered why sewing machine needles have two numbers on either side of a slash?

You might see something like 90/14 or 80/12 on a machine needle and wonder what those numbers mean….

This part isn’t tricky – these numbers reference the European and American needle size systems. The higher number is European and the smaller number is American.

Longarm needles tend to have 3 numbers, both European and American as well as the Longarm sizes.

But what do sewing machine needle numbers mean you may ask?!

When it comes to sewing machine needles, remember – the bigger the number the bigger the needle

As a general rule of thumb

The finer/ lighter your fabric, the lower the needle number you need & vice versa – the thicker & heavier your fabric the higher the number needle you need.

Here are some example fabrics and the needle size you might consider. Fabric weights can vary extensively so the ideal needle size can vary between the same fabric type. If in doubt – sew a test on some off cuts of your fabric

  • Cotton Lawn – 70/10
  • Quilting cotton – 80/12
  • Denim – 90/12

Remember the thread on a sewing machine must sit fully in the groove of the needle without any movement on either side. This ensures the thread doesn’t unravel or shred. However, the eye of the needle must be large enough for the thread to pass through with minimal friction. 

We’ve made a sewing needle size chart below. So remember to come back to it if you ever need a hand choosing needles.

Sewing Machine Needle Sizes

European SizesAmerican Sizes
608
7010
7511
8012
9014
10016
11018
12020
13022

Top Trouble Shooting Tip: When your sewing machine drops or skips stitches, it’s often caused by a damaged needle, or occasionally a mismatch between the size of the thread and the needle. Try changing your needle, this often fixes the problem!

Different Types Of Sewing Machine Needles

Universal Needles:

Universal needles aren’t as sharp as other regular needles. They are tapered allowing them to slide through the fabric without pulling threads on the weave.

They’re usually suitable for most types of fabric and are a good all-rounder to have on hand in your sewing stash

Ballpoint Needles:

With a rounded tip, ballpoint needles are designed to be used on jersey & stretch fabrics. The slightly rounded point gives ballpoint needles their name, and means the needle finds its way between the fabric fibres and avoids leaving behind a hole!

Embroidery Needles:

Embroidery needles are special needles that have a big eye, are polished and are designed for rayon and polyester machine embroidery threads. Have you seen how fast an embroidery machine needle can move in full swing? You want to make sure you’re using the right needle for the right job here…

Metallic Needles:

Using metallic needles are the best choice when sewing metallic thread. Metallic needles have an enlarged, polished eye to prevent shredding and or splitting of this specialist thread.

Quilting Needles:

Quilting needles for….. quilting! Featuring a strong, tapered shaft these needles have the ability to sew through multiple layers without breaking.

Ideal for those thick quilts and fluffy wadding!

Topstitch Needles:

Topstitch needles tend to have a very sharp point allowing for precise, neat stitches.

They are ideal for woven fabric and they also have long eyes and grooves for thicker topstitch threads.

Denim Needles:

Denim Needles, also sold as Jeans Needles, are more heavy-duty than many other needles and are designed to be used with denim. These bad boys can cope with multiple layers of heavy denim fabric.

These needles are also a good choice for other heavy weight fabrics, like canvas.

Leather Needles:

Leather needles are one of the sharpest cut point needles. These are designed to pierce authentic leather, artificial leather as well as other thick non-wovens.

Hand Needle Types

Sharps Needle:

Sharps handheld needles are often short to medium length with sharp points. Sharps needles are a good all-rounder and are used for a wide range of hand-sewing tasks.

Betweens Needles:

Betweens needles are usually short, sharp needles used in hand quilting. As well as other sewing makes that require precise accuracy when sewing.

Hand Embroidery Needles and Crewel Needles

Hand embroidery have sharp points and eyes that are wider than the shaft of the needle and enable thicker threads to be used.

Embroidery is the art of sewing intricate, decorative stitches made with floss or thread.

Crewel refers to the same types of stitches, stitches but sewn with wool thread. The needle is the same in the embroidery & crewel techniques.

Hand Applique Needles

Hand applique needles are actually sharps needles and are ideally suited to applique and intricate hand-work.

Although they are sharps, some brands name them applique needles, to assist sewists that are looking for the best needle for hand applique.

Often short to medium length with sharp points.The needle eyes are often small and the needles come in several lengths & sizes. Clover needles really are the best quality and a dream to use.

Chenille Needles:

Another great embroidery needle is the Chenille needle, they are different to a regular embroidery needle.

Chenille needles are often referred to as a combination between a tapestry needle and a crewel or embroidery needle. They are sized the same as tapestry needles.

Usually starting at size 14 and all the way up to size 28 (which is the finest needle you can find).

Straw/Milliners Needles:

Straw or Milliners needles are looooong needles with round eyes, traditionally used for hat making. However, they can also be used for hand sewing.

They are often the choice of preference for those who prefer longer needles.

Tapestry Needles:

Tapestry needles are often used in needlepoint, petit point, counted cross-stitch and plastic canvas work. They have a large eye with a blunt, round point.

So that’s our ultimate guide to sewing needles! We hope you’ve brushed up on your knowledge and picked up on a few needle tips along the way.

Did you find this sewing needle guide helpful?

Please let us know in the comments below!

How To Use a KAM Snap Press

How To Use a KAM Snap Press

Are you on the hunt for plastic snap fasteners for your latest project? Maybe you’ve invested in some but are feeling a little lost on how to install them? We hope our latest blog can help with all your KAM snap worries.

First of all, what are KAM snaps? KAM snaps are a strong and durable fastener made from polyacetal resin which is super strong and OEKO-TEX certified.

They are super safe snap fasteners for clothing and the perfect alternative to buttons or metal snaps.

You need either a KAM press or KAM pliers to attach them to all kinds of projects such as clothing, coin purses and more. We have a detailed beginners blog all about KAM here. 

KAM Press or Pliers?

You may have seen on our website we sell 2 types of snap fastener tools. The pliers are compatible with all shapes and sizes of KAM snaps as they come with different die sets, adjusting screw driver and plastic handled awl.

The KAM presses sit on the table top and are compatible with all shapes & sizes of KAM snaps, just ensure you have the correct die head. Our KAM presses are supplied with a free size 20 round die.

KAM Presses super easy to use & make sure your snaps are applied really securely. The pliers are great for light use, however you may prefer a KAM press if you’re looking to apply a lot of snaps.

If you are making to items to sell, especially baby items then we’d definitely recommend applying KAM snaps with a press for enhanced peace of mind that your snaps snaps won’t come off.

If you’re looking for an easy, secure and snug installation, a KAM press is the one to go for. Presses are also especially helpful if you suffer with any dexterity issues such as arthritic hands etc.

Although a press is more of an investment, it’s worth it for the professional finish which is important if you’re making to sell and a press will last you a life time.

Differences between the DK98 and the DK93

You might have noticed that there are 2 KAM presses to choose from, the DK98 and DK93.

    • The DK93 has a larger gap for the fabric, meaning you can fit over triple the width between the dies compared to the DK98. This is perfect for projects where you need to install a snap quite far from the edge of your fabric, so the DK93 is a lot more versatile for a variety of projects.
    • There are also several die sets available and a die set for the DK93 will never work on the DK98 and vice versa.  However we will supply each KAM press bought with the correct die set to fit size 20 (T5) round dies.  Then you are free to buy additional die sets for your machine to suit your making requirements.
    • The upper die in the DK98 can be slower to change, due to it being held in place by a tiny screw that needs an allen key to undo. Be careful not to lose the screw or the allen key or your press will be out of action! The dies in the DK93 directly screw into the press with ease and no tools needed.
    • The DK93 is also a lot lighter (approximately 4KG lighter) and slightly more compact, making it easier to move on and off your sewing table.

How to put your KAM press together

When you get the KAM press out of the box, you might feel a bit overwhelmed that you have to assemble it. Don’t worry, it’s super easy when you know how…

  1. Choose a smooth, flat surface to work on. Make sure it is low enough so you can extend your arm straight down when pressing the handle down. This will allow you to use your body weight to push down instead of just your arm, for a deeper press and therefore a more professional installation.
  2. Attach the handle with the screw.

Prefer a video tutorial? Check out our YouTube step by step video below:

How to attach KAM snaps

If you’re looking to attach KAM snaps with pliers, we have a handy step by step tutorial here on the blog. Make sure you practice on scrap fabric first before going onto your project!

Installing KAM Snaps with a Press

  1. To make sure to apply the right amount of pressure, place your press on a table that is low enough for you to use your shoulder for leverage.
  2. You will need 4 parts of the KAM plastic snap set, 2 caps, a socket and a stud.
  3. Put your cap die into your press and attach your outer die to the top of your press.
  4. Grab your inner snap and press it firmly into the outer die.
  5. Put your plastic cap through your fabric and place it into the cap die with the long prong facing up making sure none of the plastic is outside of the die cup.
  6. Press down, the die should bulge out slightly.
  7. The cap should be flattened and both parts firmly into your fabric.
  8. For the other side, swap out the die at the top of your press for the inner die.
  9. Take your stud and place it into the inner die.
  10. Get another cap and place it into the die cup with the needle facing up once again.
  11. Press down and fix the cap and stud together.

You should have a press stud that snaps together!

Prefer video tutorials? Check out our YouTube tutorial below.

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How to remove KAM Snaps

In order to remove KAM snaps, you will need a set of KAM snap removal pliers. It’s really easy to remove both the male and female sides of the snaps. Check out our beginners guide to KAM Snaps for a step by step tutorial.

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What can I make with KAM snap fastenings?

Now you can attach KAM snap fastenings, we have a ton of project ideas for you!

Check out our UK based sewing superstore for all of our KAM snap fastener supplies! We sell the press, pliers and lots of different colour snaps for all of your projects. New to KAM snaps? Check out our snap fastener kit. 

Go Super Size with Extra Wide Fabrics!

Go Super Size with Extra Wide Fabrics!

Ever heard the term “wide backs” and wondered what it means? No – it’s not a dressmaking alteration for the broad shouldered!

Some of you beginner seam-stars out there have come across some fabrics on our website which are a huuuuge 106” wide and might think, why on earth would you need a piece of fabric that wide?! Well you’re in luck! In this blog, we’ll be going through why we need extra wide fabrics and inspire you with what they can be used for.

Quilt Backing Fabric

Hey Quilters! What if I told you that you never had to piece the back of a quilt ever again?! You may have started a quilt top and thought, oh no, what will I put on the back? The extra wide fabrics we have to offer on the website are perfect for this. It’ll save you SO much time, seem way less daunting, look really professional and can work out cheaper. Don’t just think about the back either! You can use extra wide fabrics for the front and applique over the top or practice your free motion quilting without hours spent on piecing blocks.

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Wide Fabrics for Curtains and Home Decor

Think about those super size projects! Curtains, duvet covers or maybe something you’re upcycling. We have lots of gorgeous designs to choose from to suit any home.

HUGE Fabric Scraps!

Don’t forget when you have finished with your main project, you’ll have some super wide scraps to play with! Why not make some binding for your quilt that matches the back? Maybe you could make a cushion to match? OR start a whole new quilt!

Where can I buy Extra Wide fabric?

We have a huge selection of extra wide fabric to choose from at our sewing superstore, Plush Addict. We’re based in the UK and will ship your order the same day if you order before 3pm, so you can get sewing in no time!

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A Guide To Bias Binding

A Guide To Bias Binding

Reading Time: 8 Minutes

Bias binding is a seam-stars best friend! 

Have you ever used it before? 

We use it ALL the time in our in-house projects and everyday sewing, it’s used to cover those not so pretty raw edges and gives a project a neat finish.

As well as being available in multiple colours adding a dash of excitement to your project!

Did you know you can use bias binding on a range of different materials and projects?

It’s suitable to use on garments, quilts, cushions and much more and come in various different materials too!

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Types Of Bias Binding

You can find different colours of bias binding ranging from white to blue, to red to pink to black to match any fabric colour! We stock 144 colours of our 20mm bias binding tape!

As well as different colours, bias binding tape also comes in different materials such as cotton, polycotton, metallic, patterned, satin, velvet and leatherette suitable for most types of projects.

And if you’re still on the fence about using this bias tape for your sewing projects this might just sway you… you can get different types of bias binding! There’s plain, piping, stretch, lace edge, iron on and blanket bias binding!

Making your own bias binding is also an alternative to buying it ready made and can often work out much cheaper! We’ll go into detail further on in the guide on how to make your own bias binding.

What’s The Difference Between Single Fold And Double Fold Bias Binding?

We’ll also go over the different types of bias binding. 

There’s 2 main types, single and double bias tape and you can differentiate both by the way they fold up. 

Single fold tape has both edges folded towards the middle, creating a fold down each side of the bias tape.. 

Whereas double fold is similar to a single fold bias binding, but with an added extra fold in the centre of the bias. 

All bias binding is cut at a 45-degree angle to allow for stretch and use on project corners! 

So let’s get into the guide, we’ll go over how to make bias binding, how to attach bias binding, how to sew bias binding corners and more!

How To Make Bias Binding

Knowing how to make bias binding (also known as bias tape) is a life-long skill for any sewist!

The advantages of making handmade bias binding tape are that you can decide on the exact width and pattern that you want, it can also be more cost effective saving you money by using fabrics from your stash.

Plus you can match it perfectly with your project by using the same fabric!

We’d recommend investing in a bias making tool, they’re worth the money and can save so much time. However they come in various different sizes so make sure you choose the correct size for your project.

Want to learn how to make and how to cut your own bias binding tape? Read on!

Make Your Own Bias Binding Step-by-Step

Step 1: Take your piece of fabric

Step 2: Take the top right-hand edge to meet the bottom edge creating a triangle and press.

Step 3: Use a ruler and fabric marker to draw strips parallel to the fold. If you are using a bias tool.

Step 4: Cut the strips using fabric scissors or a rotary cutter.

Step 5: Overlap the ends of two strips at a 90-degree angle and pin in place.

Step 6: Stitch together and press back the seams. Trim the seam edges that overhang. Continue to piece all your strips together in this way until you have enough to go around the edge of your project.

Ways To Fold Your Binding

Option 1: Use a bias binding maker

Once you have all your strips joined, feed one end of the strip into the wide end of the maker.

Next, pull the strip out of the narrow end of the bias binding maker.

Move the maker along with the strip, pressing it with a hot iron as you go.

When finished, wind the bias binding tape around some strong card to keep it flat and pressed.

Option 2: If you don’t have a binder maker.

If you don’t have a tool, you can press by hand or use a pin on your ironing board as a guide.

To use the pin method, use a fabric marker to mark two points half the width of your fabric strip.

Insert a pin between these marks.

Pass the strip under the pin pressing with an iron as you go.

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How To Attach Bias Binding

Curves

Applying and sewing bias binding around curves may seem daunting at first but it isn’t as difficult as you might think.

Follow our step by step bias binding tutorial to learn how to sew bias binding around curves and how to attach bias binding to a project.

Applying Bias Binding Step-by-Step

Step 1: Unfold the bias tape and line up the edge with the edge of your fabric.

Make sure your right sides are facing each other and pin in place.

Step 2: You will get some puckering but don’t worry about that. Slowly stitch along the fold line.

Step 3: Fold the bias tape over to the back.

Step 4: Pin or clip in place. If the binding doesn’t quite sit where you want it, trim the seam allowance slightly.

Step 5: You can topstitch the binding in place, but we recommend hand sewing it so there is no stitch line on the front.

You can also clip the seam allowance if you need to along the curve to remove the bulk.

Step 6: Give the binding a good press with the iron.

How To Mitre A Corner with Bias Binding

Although you might find mitred corners hard at first, following the method below takes all the confusion out!

All it takes is just a bit of practice.

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Mitre A Corner With Bias Binding Step-by-Step

Step 1: Unfold the bias tape and line up the edge with the edge of your fabric.

Make sure your right sides are facing each other and pinned in place.

Step 2: Leave 2 or 3cm before you sew.

This will form an overlap at the end. Stitch along the fold line.

When you get to the end, stop about 6mm before the fabric edge.

Step 3: Move your needle up and fold the bias tape up at a 90 degree angle and fold back down, this will give you a diagonal 45 degree angle at the corner.

Pin in place.

Step 4: Stitch all the way along the fold line.

Repeat these steps at every corner.

When you get to the end, you can cut your tape but leave enough to overlap.

Step 5: Fold the bias tape over to the back.

Pin or clip the binding in place.

Step 6: If the binding doesn’t quite sit where you want it, you can trim it slightly.

When it comes to corners, fold in one side, then the other and if the sides are nice and even, you should get a nice, neat 45-degree corner.

Step 7: You can topstitch the binding in place, but we recommend hand sewing it so there is no stitch line on the front.

You can also clip the seam allowance if you need to along the curve to remove the bulk.

Step 8: Give the binding a good press with the iron.

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Ready Made Bias Binding

Prefer to buy ready made bias binding?

We’ve got it!

There’s definitely advantages to buying pre-made bias binding vs learning how to make bias binding. It can save you time and also fabric!

Here at Plush Addict, we’re not only a fabric store but we’re also an online haberdashery! We stock a wide variety of bias binding in lots of finishes and sizes.

Our most versatile ready-made bias binding is made from polycotton in 13mm, 20mm, 25mm, 27mm and 50mm. This is the one we would recommend if you have never used ready made bias binding before.

If you’re looking for something bolder, we sell metallic, patterned and decorative bias binding, as well different textures and fabrics such as satin, velvet and leatherette.

We also have several ranges of piping bias to create a different finish, which is great for decorative projects such as cushions and detailing on clothes.

Did you find this guide helpful? Let us know in the comments below and tag us @PlushAddict we’d love to see how you used bias tape in your projects!

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We hope you found this tutorial useful! Let us know how you get along in the comments below.

How To Use Bondaweb

How To Use Bondaweb

Imagine Bondaweb as the superhero of fabric glue, not your average, garden-variety adhesive. This bad boy is like double-sided sticky tape’s cooler, tougher cousin, ready to weld your fabrics together with the finesse of a seasoned blacksmith.

Let’s talk perks of Bondaweb, shall we?

  • This wonder adhesive plays it cool, literally. It won’t get clingy until you bring the heat.
  • Toss it in the wash at up to 60 degrees or give it a spa day with a dry clean. Bondaweb can handle it.
  • Dreaming of flawless appliqué? Bondaweb’s got your back. But hey, if appliqué’s not your jam, we’ve got a Pinwheel project that might just tickle your fancy.
  • Snip and clip those appliqué designs with the precision of a ninja, all thanks to Bondaweb’s stabilizing mojo.
  • That backing paper? It’s not just for show. Sketch your heart out, trace like a pro, and plot your world domination in pencil.

Words of Wisdom Before You Dive In:

  • Do a test run on some fabric scraps. Trust us, it’s better than a “whoops” moment on the real deal.

  • Pay attention, folks. Misuse Bondaweb and you’ll have a sticky mess with your iron and ironing board.

  • Your fabric needs to take the heat. If it can’t handle iron setting 3, it’s not the stage for Bondaweb’s talents.

Gather Your Arsenal:

  • Bondaweb

  • Cotton fabric

  • Thread

  • Pencil

Step-by-Step Instructions

  1. For appliqué: Trace or draw around your design onto the smooth side of the Bondaweb using a pencil.

Important Note: Trace as a mirror image or the finished design will end up the wrong way round.

2. For appliqué: Rough cut around each shape, leaving a small border.

3. Spread a smooth-surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over an ironing board.

4. Lay the fabric wrong side up on the ironing board.

5. Place the Bondaweb on top of the fabric rough side down. For appliqué: align the object with the grain.

6. Lay a smooth-surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over the top and press for roughly 5 seconds, heat setting 2, no steam.

Then wait at least 30 minutes for the Bondaweb to cool and the glue to set.

7. Cut out the shape/ fabric accurately, cutting small details is easier with fine scissors or a small rotary cutter and cutting mat.

8. Peel off the backing paper and position the shape/ fabric onto the mount/ backing fabric.

9. Place right side up on a covered ironing board. Lay a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over the top.

10. Dampen the cover fabric using the iron’s spray setting and press for roughly 10 seconds, heat setting 3.

Allow at least 30 minutes for the Bondaweb to cool and the glue to set.

11. For Appliqué: Sew around the edge of the shape and around any cut out elements (for example the centre of letters), 2mm from the edge.

(Hand sewn blanket stitch or machine zig zag stitch overlapping the edge of the letter and the surrounding fabric can also be used (length 0.5 to 1, width 3 to 4 depending on the finish required).

Trouble Shooting Tips For Bondaweb

If you find things aren’t going as smoothly as you’d hoped with Bondaweb here are some trouble shooting tips that might help:

  1. The Sticky Situation: If Bondaweb isn’t adhering properly, it’s probably playing hard to get. Solution: Check your iron’s heat setting. Bondaweb likes it hot, but not too hot. Ensure it’s on the correct setting (usually medium or as the Bondaweb instructions specify). Give it a little more time under the iron, but don’t get too steamy; moisture is not our friend here.
  2. Paper Won’t Peel Off: So, the backing paper decided it’s too attached to leave? Solution: Let it cool down more. If it’s still being clingy, gently score the edge with a pin to get the peeling started. Sometimes, all it needs is a little nudge.
  3. Bubbles and Wrinkles: Ended up with a Bondaweb masterpiece that looks more like a prune? Solution: This is usually a sign of too much heat or too much enthusiasm with the iron. Next time, use a gentle touch and ensure even heat. To fix, gently reheat the area and smooth out the wrinkles with the back of a spoon or re-iron with a protective cloth.
  4. It Stuck to the Iron/Ironing Board: Oops, went a bit rogue and missed the protective layer? Solution: Unplug the iron and let it cool. For the iron, use a dedicated iron cleaner or a soft cloth with vinegar (once it’s cool, of course). For the ironing board, gently scrape off what you can and cover the area with a cloth when ironing in the future.
  5. Fabric Discoloration: Your fabric lost its glow-up after Bondawebbing? Solution: This can happen with too much heat or incompatible fabric. Always test on a scrap first. If disaster strikes, consider covering the spot with an appliqué or decorative element. Remember, it’s not a mistake; it’s a creative opportunity.
  6. The Fabric Won’t Stick Together: If your fabrics are social distancing despite the Bondaweb, Solution: Check if you’ve applied it to the correct side and that you’ve used enough heat. Some fabrics are more stubborn than a cat in a bath. If it’s still not sticking, double-check that your Bondaweb isn’t past its prime. Yes, even adhesives have a shelf life.
  7. Changed Your Mind? If you’ve bonded something and then decided it’s all wrong, Solution: Bondaweb is pretty much a ’til death do us part’ situation once it’s set. However, you can sometimes gently reheat and carefully separate the fabrics. Be warned, it’s a delicate operation and might not always work. Consider this a lesson in commitment.

Remember, crafting is about the journey, not just crossing the finish line. Every misstep is a step towards mastering your craft! Embrace the chaos, learn from the Bondaweb battles, and keep on creating…

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