The Ultimate Vilene / Vlieseline At-A-Glance Guide

by Kellie Rose | Apr 9, 2019 | Fabric, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Fabric Warehouse, Interfacing and Interlining, Product Guides

We have prepared this ultimate Vilene / Vlieseline Guide because interfacings and interlinings are some of the most useful products to have in your sewing room.

Vlieseline offer a vast range of products which can add shape and structure to your fabric but there are so many choose from so how do you know which you need for your project?

Who’s Vlieseline?

First off, let’s talk about Vlieseline.

If you’re based in Europe and have been sewing for a while you’ll probably be familiar with the brand Vilene.

Vilene became Vlieseline in the summer of 2016, different name, but the products are all the same and of exceptional quality.

For more than 60 years Vilene (now Vlieseline) has been the essential interlining for all kinds of applications.

Vlieseline products are the most famous and prestigious interlinings for those with a passion for sewing, for studios and for professional tailors/dressmakers!

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Did you know that Vlieseline do more than just interlinings?

Alongside the top quality fashion range which includes iron-on, sew-in and woven the range also includes a comprehensive range of tapes to take your dressmaking to the next level.

The Creative Range is the perfect range of stabilisers for all sorts of projects including patchwork, bags, home decoration, or accessories.

Did you know that Vlieseline also offer a great range of waddings/ battings?

Suitable for projects that need a little volume of padding, there are also some flame retardant choices, perfect to offer peace of mind for baby projects.

With the help of Vlieseline we’ve put together a handy at-a-glance guide which will easily help you select the right product for the right project.

As well as the basic weights we’ve included laundry instructions, fabric suitability and properties, a quick guide to how to apply the product.

Want the Ultimate Vilene/Vlieseline At-A-Glance Guide?

Click the button below to grab your copy!

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Vlieseline/ Vilene & Pellon Equivalent products

Isn’t it annoying when you find the perfect project online, only to discover you don’t recognise the suggested stability option?

If you’re based in the USA you’re probably familiar with Pellon, and here in Europe and Australia the most popular brand is Vlieseline.

We’ve provided Pellon suggestions for Vlieseline products where possible, although we always recommend testing an interlining on scrap fabric first to make sure you’re happy with the result.

Vlieseline have an extensive YouTube channel which you must check out. It has oodles of video how-to tutorials on how to get the best from the range.

Grab 10% off Woven Interfacing with WOVEN10

We hope you find this guide helpful! Drop us a message and let us know how you get along, we love to see all your amazing makes.

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more guides!

Brassey Cl, Peterborough PE1 2AZ, UK

How to Measure and Cut Fabric Perfectly for Sewing

by Kellie Rose | Feb 26, 2019 | Fabric, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Fabric Warehouse, Tutorials

Let’s face it, working with beautiful fabric is one of the best bits about sewing your own, isn’t it? I’m sure I’m not alone when I say I’ve made a few mistakes along the way and messed up a project because I’ve not given enough care or attention when prepping my fabric. Today I am delighted to welcome Annabelle from Wunder Label who is sharing some invaluable tips about how to measure and cut your fabric perfectly to ensure you don’t end up getting yourself in to a pickle….

Even a seasoned seamstress will be faced with difficulty if they are working with fabric if they are using incorrectly measured or cut fabric. If you are struggling with your patterns and designs but are following the instructions step by step, the problem might be in your prep rather than your main body of work.

Don’t worry, though, because there are some tips that you can keep in mind to make sure you cut and measure your fabric perfectly.

Know What You Need

On the topic of measuring fabric, make sure you know your measurements before you begin to work with fabric. If you are working with a sewing pattern, this is usually pretty cut and dry. This is because most patterns detail how much fabric you’ll need.

For those who work to create garments, this can be a little more complicated, though. When you are taking measurements from who you are making the garment for, make sure to check those measurements multiple times.

If you are making a garment for yourself, getting measurements can be a little tricky. Your best bet is to ask a friend for help so the measurements are right. Taking these few extra moments will be worth it when your garment is the perfect fit.

Take a Second and Measure Again

All of us make mistakes while we’re sewing. Sometimes we even make mistakes before we start sewing.

Because of this, make sure to do all of your prep work twice. Check the measurements you need twice and make sure you know what they are. Even further, measure your fabric twice before you even think about cutting!

Don’t Be Afraid to Leave a Bit Extra

While you’re measuring and cutting your fabric, don’t feel compelled to cut your measurements exactly. To expand on that, don’t cut your fabric short but don’t be afraid to leave a little extra on your measurements.

Look at it this way: you can take away from your fabric but you can’t really seamlessly replace fabric you’ve already cut off. So, your better bet is to leave an inch or so more than you need on your fabric. Once you’re finished with your project, you can clean it up by trimming the excess at the end of your project.

Mark Your Fabric

If you want to cut a straight line, you need a straight line to cut. To ensure that you have this, don’t be afraid to mark your fabric. Tailor’s chalk is a popular choice for a non-permanent solution.

Find a Straight Edge

When you measure and cut, it’s absolutely crucial that you are working with a straight edge. To make sure they have a straight edge, many choose to use a long straight edge such as a yardstick when they are measuring their fabric.

It’s also important to make sure the pattern of the fabric matches up with your straight edge. For this, start by locating the selvage – the pre-finished edge of the fabric. Then, make sure to run your straight edge parallel to this line.

On the topic of selvage, sometimes you’ll run into a fabric whose pattern doesn’t perfectly line up with the selvage. This is usually caused by distortion created when the fabric during rolling, handling, and transportation. In other words, mismatched patterns and selvage can appear off grain but they actually aren’t.

To solve this problem, stretch the fabric on the bias in each direction. This helps to reset the weave and solve the mismatched appearance without any fuss!

Make Sure to Wash and Iron

When you are measuring your fabric, you might not always remember to leave allowances for fabrics that shrink. Without doing this, your finished product might not live up to your expectations after its first wash. To avoid this, take the time to wash, dry, and iron your fabric before measuring and cutting.

Only Work on Flat Surfaces

Have you ever tried to cut wrapping paper on a bed? If you have, you probably know its infuriating to try and get a straight cut.

This same principle stands when working with fabric. When trying to get a straight cut and proper measurements, take the time to spread your work out on a desk or table. Even a hardwood floor is better than trying to work on top of a carpeted one.

Make Sure It’s Sharp

Another wise idea is to make sure the cutting utensils you use are sharp. With a dull cutting instrument, you’ll find that the usual snap of your scissors quickly becomes a struggle of trying to chop through your fabric. Of course, this sawing or chopping motion can throw off your straight line.

Thanks Annabelle! Do be sure to check out more of Annabelle’s top tips over on her blog and why not check out her online shop where she sells the most amazing custom labels, ribbons and more which will give your sewing projects an oh-so professional look and feel.

A Fabric Guide: Felt Fabric

by Kellie Rose | Oct 26, 2018 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Fabric Warehouse, Felt, Product Guides

Why in the world would you need a guide on felt fabric? Well, chances are, you’ve had your hands on felt before—remember the magic of Fuzzy Felt? Those were the days, right? Creating scenes with Fuzzy Felt was practically a childhood rite of passage.

Felt isn’t just any fabric; it’s the cool kid on the block, coming in a mishmash of shapes, sizes, and qualities. So, let’s break it down: how to pick the right felt for your project and dish out 11 game-changing sewing tips for felt fabrics.

Felt is that laid-back friend who doesn’t need to be woven or knitted to hang together. It’s made from fibers chilling out together, getting tangled when needled, or just lounging in some heat.

True felt is like a cosmopolitan at a party, made from anything—wool, fur, mohair, cotton, rayon/viscose, or other synthetic fibers. Making felt is like crafting a fine cocktail: pound those fibers, compress them, shrink them, then add a splash of moisture, a dash of temperature change, pressure, and finally, rough them up a bit. Talk about a process!

Felt Fabric Guide Sample Project: What’s Felt Good For?

Depending on the felt, it can either be your go-to for crafty shenanigans or the MVP for sturdier projects.

Retail stores usually flaunt two types: acrylic (the life of the party for crafts, Christmas ornaments, appliqués) and wool felt (the durable one, perfect for soft toys that’ll see a lot of action, not to mention chic bags, hats, and sneaky garment details).

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Fun Felt Facts (That Are Actually Fun)

Felt is the Houdini of fabrics—it doesn’t unravel.
Sewing with felt is as stable as your bestie.
Don’t you dare dry clean felt; it’s more sensitive than your ex.
Felt can get a bit clingy, bobbling and pilling with too much attention.
Stretched felt is like a bad haircut; there’s no coming back.
Steam? Felt can’t even.

Top Tips for Sewing with Felt (Because We’re All About That Life)

Let felt do its thing in the sewing machine and feed naturally through; don’t be pushy.
Dry cleaning felt is a no-go zone.
Be cool when pressing & use little or no moisture when pressing. If you must, use a pressing cloth.
Hand wash felt like it’s a delicate treasure in cold water & a mild soap, then let it air dry.
DO NOT wring or twist felt as it will misshapen.
Cut with precision—rotary cutters for the win, and keep your fabric scissors safe.
Thread choice? Polyester or cotton will have your back.
Needle and stitch length? Start with an 80/12 and aim for 2.5mm – 3.0mm.
Presser foot: Use a standard presser foot
Press those seams open, no need to finish—felt doesn’t play by those rules.
Always sew a test seam.

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Real Talk on Felted Fabrics

Felted fabrics like boiled wool and melton? They’re the posers of the felt world. True felt is all about those raw fibers, while felted fabrics are just playing dress-up after a shrink and full session.

DIY: Be the Maker of Your Own Wool Felt Destiny

Can’t find 100% wool felt? Make your own. Raid your closet for old wool blankets or jumpers, then give them a spa day in hot water and a tumble dryer. Check out this tutorial for the nitty-gritty and then brag about it on social media.

Did this guide help you? If it did I’d appreciate it if you’d leave a comment or a ❤️ on this post to help other people find my work! And if you’d like to hear more from me I’d love it if you would subscribe below… thanks so much!

What the Tulle? A guide to Tulle And Net fabric

by Kellie Rose | Oct 2, 2018 | Dress Net & Tulle Fabric, Fabric, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide

You will need this guide to tulle and net fabric because Halloween is just around the corner and what better fabric to create a statement with your costumes this year than dress net? We get asked a lot about both tulle and dress net and there seems to be some confusion about this family of fabrics and whether tulle and dress net are actually the same thing (they’re similar, but not the same). We thought we’d put together a fabric guide to help you decide which type of net is best for your project, along with some tips on how to handle this fun and holey cloth!

Option for finishing dress net raw edges

What’s the difference between Tulle and Dress Net?

It’s all in the drape, softness and size of the holes! Tulle is much softer to the touch than net and has smaller holes and it generally isn’t as stiff as regular dress net. Tulle is used for soft support, net is used for a stiffer look.

Tulle Fabric: Tulle is much softer and has smaller holes than dress net, it has a much better drape than traditional dress net and is often used for bridal veils, petticoats and can also be used as an interfacing. Tulle can also used for ballet tutus but will be starched. High quality Tulle can be made from nylon or silk, and nylon tulle is much crisper than silk.

Dress Net Fabric: Net, or dress net is an open-mesh fabric with larger holes than tulle and it can be made from rayon, silk, nylon or cotton but commercially it’s usually found in nylon, unless you’re shopping for bridal fabric. Dress net can range from very sheer to very heavy and most of the dress net fabric available commercially is made from nylon and is quite stiff and is perfect for costume making where structure is required. It can also used in evening gowns, petticoats, millinery and for underlinings and net makes great ruffles which add volume to a garment.

Dress net makes fun costumes

Sewing with Dress Net & Tulle

Layout & Cutting

High quality Net & tulle do not have a true grain, but there is more stretch in the width than the length. Despite not having a true grain it is advisable to cut conventionally with the lengthwise grain arrows parallel to the lengthwise grain of the fabric. Using a rotary cutter with net will give you the most accurate results. Follow the “Without Nap” cutting layout.

Machine needles

To make the most out of this guide to tulle and net fabric, use universal or sharps needles in sizes 60/8 – 80/12, depending on the weight of your net.

Stitch length

Use stitch length 1.5-2.5mm. You may need to lower the tension on your machine, always test on a scrap first.

Thread

Use a good quality polyester or cotton thread

Machine feet

Use a wide straight stitch or roller foot. You may also benefit from using a small hole needle plate if you have one.

Markings

Safety pins or tailors tacks are a good choice for marking on net. Remember to use a contrasting thread for tailors tacks for ease of visibility!

Seam Finish

Net and tulle do not unravel so seam finishing is not functionally required, however for aesthetic reasons you can choose plain seams, french, bound (with chiffon or tricot), rolled hem, you can even use a narrow satin stitch. Seams should be as narrow as practically possible. You can also overlock net fabrics; reinforcing with seam tape when overlocking would be a good idea just in case the net rips. Use a bound seam at the hem to prevent dress net from itching or scratching the skin.

Closures

Don’t use button holes as they will pull out of the fabric. You can use instead button loops or small, reinforced snaps.

Other Top Tips for Sewing With Net Fabric

Place a small square of water soluble stabiliser between your machine foot and the fabric at the beginning of seams, and at the beginning and end of darts to stop your machine chewing your net.
Hold on to the top and bottom threads at the beginning of your seam to avoid the fabric being pulled down in to the needle plate.
Careful with the iron! Most commercial net fabric is made from nylon and will melt under high heat so ensure your iron isn’t too hot and that you use a pressing cloth.
Make a test seam to determine your stitch length and use tissue paper if your feed dogs are tearing the fabric
Stitch slowly! This will help to prevent unwanted puckers or gathers.

Have you ever sewn with high quality net or tulle? Have anything to add? Do share your tips with us , we love to hear from you!

Dress net adds volume to a hem

What Is Taffeta Fabric? A Fabric Guide

by Kellie Rose | Jul 5, 2018 | Fabric, Fabric Guides, Taffeta

We’ve been getting lots of enquiries about taffeta fabric recently & we’re putting its popularity down to the fact that both wedding & prom seasons are upon us and taffeta is a very popular choice for posh frocks!

With its crisp finish & subtle sheen, it’s not surprising taffeta is a go-to fabric choice for special occasion garments.

Get 10% off Taffeta fabric with codeTAFFETA10

Explore are Taffeta Range here

Taffeta’s not just for posh frocks tho! It’s also great for luxe home furnishings – think glam cushions and curtains!

Here’s a quick summary of taffeta fabric & some top sewing tips…

What is Taffeta Fabric?

Taffeta is a fine, crisp, noisy woven fabric with a gorgeous sheen that also rustles when you walk!

The word “taffeta” derives from the Persian word tafta, which means “glossy twist”. Originally the fabric was woven with highly twisted silk fibres and it’s the highly twisted yarn that gives taffeta its characteristic crispness.

These days taffeta can be found made from a variety of modern fibres such as nylon, viscose, polyester, acetate, or even a blend of these fibres making it an affordable & accessible fabric choice.

See Our Taffeta Colours

Shiny!

Explore are Taffeta range

What Can Taffeta Fabric be used for?

Taffeta is very versatile fabric nad makes great

dresses
bridal wear
evening dresses
prom dresses
suits
blouses
linings
lingerie
costumes
hats
bags
curtains
cushions
lampshades.

Tips for Sewing with Taffeta Fabric

Needle size: It’s best to use a Sharps needle with taffeta for both machine and hand sewing. On a sewing machine it’s best to use sizes 60/10 – 80/12 – depending on the weight of the taffeta
Stitch length: Use 1.7-2.5mm. Hold the fabric taught when sewing to help prevent puckering.
Thread: All purpose cotton or polyester thread.
Machine Feet: use a wide straight stitch foot or roller foot.
Layout: Use the “With Nap” layout when cutting out a pattern especially if your taffeta is iridescent
Fabric markers: Any type are suitable EXCEPT wax. Mark lightly and a little as possible. Ensure your test on a scrap of fabric!
Pins: pins can permanently mark taffeta so you may wish to consider using weights or clips but extra fine pins can often be used. If you find your fabric has pin holes these might be removed by gently scratching the fabric where the hole is. These extra fine pins are amazing and highly recommended!
Pressing: Use a warm, dry iron and press on the wrong side where possible. Always use a press cloth if pressing the right side of a garment as it’s better o be safe than sorry. Always test press on a fabric scrap before pressing your garment.
Taffeta does not ease well so choose a style of pattern that allows for this. Curves like princess seams might be an issue. You may consider reducing the ease in a sleeve cap if you’re having trouble setting in a sleeve.
Taffeta can crease easily which can be greatly reduced by underlining a garment with silk organza or net.
Interfacing: It’s best to use sew in interfacing with taffeta to offer more stability and because iron on interfacing requires steam , which taffeta doesn’t like.

Explore Out Taffeta Range

Well I hope you taffeta sewists found that helpful! Are you planning on using taffeta on a project soon? Please let us know how you get on, if these tips helped you and do feel free to send us some photos of your creations! We always love to see them….

Cloth Nappy Fabrics 101 Part 6: Stay Dry Fabrics

by Kellie Rose | Apr 24, 2015 | Cloth Nappy Making, Minky Fabric, My Makes, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing

Hello! And welcome to the last part of my nappy making fabrics guide. Last up we’re going to talk about “Stay Dry” fabrics which are often used as the inner layer of a nappy. We have up to 20% off all fabrics in our “Stay Dry” section and all orders placed over this week that you’ve asked us to hang on to will be dispatched today. We also have 20% off nappy making kits all week long.

What is a Stay Dry Fabric?

A stay dry fabric is generally a man-made fibre which feels (almost) dry to the touch after it’s gotten wet. These fabrics are said to have “wicking” properties, which means they draw moisture away from the skin and out in to the atmosphere so the moisture can evaporate. Let’s be real here, if you pour water on to any fabric it’s never going to be 100% dry but on these types of fabrics it will feel much dryer than an a natural fibre absorbent fabric which will just be sopping wet.

Why is this important in a cloth nappy? So your baby isn’t sat with wetness against his or her skin for any period of time. So how do stay dry fabrics do this? It all comes down to the wicking…

Most wicking fabrics are made from polyester blends, and synthetic fabrics don’t retain moisture like natural fibre fabrics do. Polyester holds on to a tiny 0.4% of moisture where as cotton retains about 7%. All polyester fabrics are not wicking fabrics, the wicking properties comes from the weave. The fabrics are constructed in such a way that the moisture is forced into and through the gaps in the weave

So there are a number of fabrics that can be used as a stay dry layer and each can perform differently. Our most popular choices are microfleece and suedecloth but some people choose to use cuddlesoft or plush too.

Microfleece

Microfleece is probably the most popular nappy lining fabric we stock, it’s a fleece fabric which is incredibly soft, thin, comes in a variety of colours and wicks moisture very well. No fabric will be completely dry when liquid is added but microfleece is one of the best at pulling the moisture away from the skin to the outer of the fabric and letting it evaporate and keeping you cool and comfortable. Because of this it’s also a popular choice for exercise clothing. We also stock an which has a smooth knit on one side and fleece on the other, it’s a great choice for slimming down your nappy even further.

Suedecloth

Suedecloth is a 100% polyester fabric which has a very short, fuzzy nap on one side and a smooth knit on the other. It’s much thinner than regular microfleece and is cheaper too. It works very well as a wicking fabric and is the fabric used as an lining fabric in many mass manufactured cloth nappies. It’s a popular choice as it comes in a wide range of colours and is only £3.99pm!

Other Stay Dry Options

Plush

Some people line their nappies with plush (minky) fabric. I had several nappies lined with plush and due to its luxurious and tactile nature it certainly made the nappy feel very special. Lining with plush does add bulk and in my experience it doesn’t feel quite as “dry” as microfleece or suedecloth but the performance is still adequate and it does have the bonus of feeling extra special.

Cuddly, super soft plush fabric

Cuddlesoft

Cuddlesoft is in essence a plush fabric without a brand name behind it. This means the quality isn’t as good as something like Shannon’s cuddle fabric, but it’s still lovely and tactile and usually a bit thinner so it makes it a good choice for a nappy lining fabric. In my experience it performs a little less well than microfleece or suedecloth, but it’s perfectly fine.

Well that concludes my series on cloth nappy fabrics and I hope you may have learnt something or perhaps been tempted to give cloth nappies a try. It’s by no means exhaustive and there are so many other ways to use the fabrics too, I’ve just mentioned some of the post popular. If you have any other questions or have an area that’s puzzling do get in touch and I’ll do my best to help.

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