Fabric Information Guide: Learn About Different Fabrics

A Plush Addict Guide To: Border Prints

by Kellie Rose | Apr 15, 2015 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, My Makes

I have been asked a few times recently to explain what a “border print” fabric is. If you’re not up to speed on this particular fabric lingo read on, especially as we’ve had a couple of crackers arrive this week. If I’m teaching you to suck eggs then scroll down to the inspiration part to check out the pretty prints!

So what is a border print?

Most prints are printed so the pattern runs “up the bolt/ roll” where the direction of the print runs at 90 degrees to the selvedge, like the illustration to the right.

Some fabrics are designed so that the print runs in parallel to the
edge, like the illustrations below. These are the prints we refer to as “border prints” or they can also be known as “railroaded prints”

In a border print the design runs along one side of the selvedge.

A double border print has the design running along both selvedge edges.

Border and railroaded prints offer some exciting design opportunities. They work particularly well for items like dresses and skirts. These prints can also add extra interest to items like aprons, cot bumpers and bags, to name just a few ideas. You can find our border prints here.

Border Prints

We’ve got some gorgeous new Dashwood Studio prints!

SILK ROADS

With twirling dragons, roaming elephants & dancing camels, this collection will delight the kids, as well as the grown ups…

A bright & summery colour palette makes this collection perfect for all your exotic sewing projects!

Check out the border print below.

Need Some Inspiration?

Need some inspiration to fuel your ideas about how best to use a Border Print?

Here’s one we made earlier:

This skirt was made using the Pamper border print (it’s a double border print too!). You can find the full tutorial here – it only takes 30 minutes!

You can find the full collection here, and the border print here.

We hope you found this guide helpful – let us know in the comments below if you have any suggestions for other guides you’d like to see!

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials!

A Guide To Fleece Fabrics

by Kellie Rose | Jan 13, 2015 | Bamboo towelling, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Fleece

I wrote this article a few months ago and was originally published in the November issue of Sewing World Magazine but I’m sharing it here for those that missed the publication at the time. This was the second in a series of four fabric guides I wrote for the magazine, which I thoroughly enjoyed. A big thank you to Emma at Mummy & Millie’s Boutique for helping me out with the fleecey makes! (more…)

What Is Cotton Drill? A Fabric Guide

by Kellie Rose | Jan 8, 2015 | Cotton Drill, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide

I love cotton drill. It’s very versatile and is a great utility fabric that we stock in some very vibrant colours and best of all it’s really great value too. Drill has a twill weave which makes it a very strong, dense medium to heavy weight fabric. It’s a really popular choice for uniforms and work clothes but the vibrant colours lends itself to all sorts of other exciting garments including both tailored and casual designs, as well as children’s wear and home furnishings. It’s even used to line shoes! (more…)

A Guide To Plush (A Guide To Minky Fabric)

by Kellie Rose | Dec 28, 2014 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Minky Fabric, My Makes

I wrote this article a few months ago and was originally published in the September issue of Sewing World Magazine but I’m sharing it here for those that missed the publication at the time (did you know that Sewing World Magazine have been around for over 20 years? Impressive!) Super proud that this was the first in a series of fabric guides I wrote for them, which I thoroughly enjoyed (#ExcitedMuch). I hope you find it helpful and feel free to ask any questions, I’ll surely do my best to answer them.

Plush : A Fabric Guide

The name of my shop “Plush Addict” has to be testament to how much I love this kind of fabric. Once you’ve stroked it I promise you will feel the same! If you’re not familiar with it you’re in for a treat as plush fabric is a buttery soft, fluffy fabric with a short pile and is incredibly tactile. The divine softness of the fabric lends itself very well to children’s makes such as soft toys and baby blankets but it can be used in a plethora of other places such as clothes and home furnishings. You might have heard it called “minky” before now, but in the UK it’s no longer possible for the fabric to be sold under that name because of a trademark issue and it’s becoming better known as plush or cuddle fabric [see this post for further information about minky fabric name change.]

The popularity of plush fabric has been growing over the past few years; this is evident as more of the larger fabric brands are bringing out collections. From Timeless Treasures we have “Softie”, from Riley Blake we had “Dreamy”, Michael Miller recently introduced “Cozy”, don’t the names sound inviting? They remind me of snuggling under a blanket on the sofa sipping a hot chocolate, and that’s exactly the feeling that plush fabric gives you – a little bit of “Mmmm, lovely!” It’s fantastic that some of the big brands are waking up to the wonder of plush and providing more choice, however the unrivalled King of the Cuddle has to be Shannon Fabrics. They have a mind-boggling selection of plush fabrics available and I’m very proud to stock a huge selection of the Shannon range. Shannon plush really is the premium version of this fabric and the quality is unrivalled. It has a gorgeous sheen and the hand is quite exquisite.

The most popular types of plush are smooth and dimple (or bubble) and we carry all of Shannon’s amazing 85 colours so you’re sure to find the perfect colour to suit your taste and project. There is also a huge choice of patterned plush from chevrons to florals to charming children’s prints.

There is a textured range of plush which include burn out prints such as chevrons, stripes and florals, a delightful rose swirl which is very popular for blankets as it has a deep, cosy pile. There’s even a fabric called shaggy which has a 25mm pile and makes amazing monsters, see the fabulous monster rucksack we made in this fabric!

Composition and Handling

The fabric itself is polyester so it’s a dream to launder and doesn’t require any pressing. It has a right and a wrong side, the short, fluffy directional pile is the right side and there’s a smooth knit on the wrong wide and it has a cross grain stretch. The pile on these fabrics means once cut there will be some shedding, but once that’s shaken away the edges won’t fray and edges can be left unfinished without the worry of any unraveling. The pile and the stretch can prove tricky under the needle but with the right management there isn’t any reason why a beginner sewist can’t be successful.

Top Tips For Sewing With Plush

If left to it’s own devices plush can slip and slide on your machine giving you an unsightly finish so it needs a bit of special handling. If you follow these simple tips you are lining yourself up for success and it really is so scrumptious it’s worth the effort! My top tips are:

Pin, pin and pin some more – I find that either pinning on a diagonal or horizontally to the edge helps to stabilise the fabric, I place pins about every 1cm. Wonderclips are also a fantastic gadget to invest in for sewing plush and keeping it in check.
Use a longer stitch length – I find a length of 3 to 3.5 works very well, longer for the deeper pile fabrics such as shaggy.
Use a walking foot – this will help feed the top and bottom fabrics through your machine evenly at the same speed. A walking foot will give you the best results but if you don’t have one you can reduce the pressure on your presser foot, pin lots and sew slowly.
Keep the grain lines the same – this will help combat any issues encountered with the pile and stretch
Use a ball point needle – I find a 90/14 ballpoint needle works well

Embroidering on plush fabrics

Machine embroidery is getting more popular and embroidery on plush fabrics and looks wonderful. You can embroider soft toy faces or add a commemorative message on to baby blankets for a special keep sake. You need to use a water soluble topper when embroidering fabrics with a pile to ensure the fabric doesn’t poke through your stitches. We stock Avalon water soluble topper which is perfect for the job and dissolves in cold water. I would recommend using a medium weight cut away stabilizer and using some temporary adhesive spray such as 505 spray to ensure your stabilizer and fabric don’t move in the hoop. The key to successful embroidery is to ensure you don’t stretch the plush fabric in your embroidery hoop and to make sure it’s your stabiliser that is drum tight.

I hope this guide helps has enlightened you to the joys of sewing with plush and wish you many happy makes from this wonderfully addictive fabric.

About me: A self confessed fabric addict, I adore fabric of all kinds and the journey of imagination and possibilities it presents. When I’m not managing my web shop www.plushaddict.co.uk I like to write tutorials and fabric guides for my blog and somewhere I squeeze in looking after my hubby and gorgeously funny daughter!

And if you have any tips of your own to have then do let me know!

A Fabric Guide To Corduroy: What’s In A Wale?

by Kellie Rose | Nov 11, 2014 | Corduroy, Fabric, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide

I still remember the first time I worked with corduroy – it was equal parts thrilling and daunting. The velvety texture seemed alive, slipping through my fingers and challenging every sewing skill I thought I had mastered. But when I finally finished my first corduroy project – a pinafore dress for my daughter – the sense of accomplishment was unmatched.

Corduroy isn’t just a fabric; it’s a statement. From its royal origins to its role in modern fashion, this textured classic is back and bolder than ever. Whether you’re a fashion enthusiast or a sewing hobbyist, corduroy’s versatility and charm make it a must-have in your fabric collection.

Whether you’re sewing your first project or revisiting this classic fabric with new eyes, corduroy has a way of transforming the ordinary into something extraordinary. Let’s explore its history, decode its unique characteristics, and uncover the secrets to mastering this iconic textile. Ready to stitch a little history into your next project?

What Does Corduroy Mean? The Royal Origins of This Beloved Fabric

Dive a little deeper into the etymology of our beloved fabric, and you’ll find that “Corduroy,” believe it or not, tips its hat to the French phrase *cord du roi*, translating to “cloth of the king.”

How’s that for a royal endorsement?!

This moniker harks back to an era when corduroy wasn’t just fabric; it was a symbol of service and loyalty, woven into the very uniforms of French royal servants during the opulent 17th and 18th centuries.

Today, the notion that corduroy once dressed the servants of French royals adds a layer of historical intrigue to our modern appreciation of the fabric. It’s a testament to corduroy’s versatility and enduring popularity.

What is a Corduroy Wale?

What’s in a wale? Wale, in corduroy terms, refers to those distinctive vertical ribs or cords that give the fabric its personality and texture. But here’s where it gets interesting: the size of the wale can completely transform the look and feel of your garment.

Wale 101: The Basics

A wale count refers to the number of ribs per inch. High wale counts mean finer, denser ribs (think sleek and sophisticated), while lower counts are all about that bold, textured look (hello, statement piece!). Choosing the right wale is like choosing the right accessory for an outfit—it can make or break your look.

Wale refers to the vertical ribs that define corduroy’s texture, and it’s a crucial detail for sewists. Here’s a quick guide:

High Wale Count (e.g., 12-14): Fine, dense ribs for a sleek, elegant look—perfect for shirts and dresses.
Low Wale Count (e.g., 4-6): Bold, textured ribs that stand out—ideal for jackets, trousers, and statement pieces.

Choose your wale count based on the project’s purpose and the visual impact you want.

How to Choose the Perfect Wale for Your Corduroy Sewing Projects

Selecting the right wale is like choosing the perfect accessory for an outfit—it can make or break your look. For beginners, start with mid-wale fabrics (8-10) for balanced texture and versatility. Advanced sewists can experiment with contrasting wale counts within a single design to create visual depth and interest.

Corduroy for First-Timers: A Beginner’s Guide

If you’re new to sewing with corduroy, don’t worry—you’re not alone. This fabric, with its unique ridges and luxurious texture, can seem a little daunting at first. But with a few simple tips and starter-friendly projects, you’ll be well on your way to creating something beautiful.

Why Corduroy is Perfect for Beginners

It’s sturdy and forgiving, making it ideal for practice.
Its texture adds visual interest, even to simple designs.
Available in various wale counts, it suits a range of projects.

Beginner-Friendly Corduroy Projects

Cushion Covers: A simple square shape lets you focus on straight stitches and aligning the nap.
Tote Bags: Perfect for experimenting with wale texture without too many complex seams.
Headbands or Hair Scrunchies: Quick, satisfying, and a great way to use up scraps.

Tips to Get Started

Choose a High Wale Count: Smaller ridges are easier to sew and create a more refined look.
Stick to Simple Patterns: Focus on basic shapes and straight seams to build your confidence.
Take Your Time: Corduroy’s texture demands care, but the results are worth it!

Remember, every sewing journey starts with a single stitch. Corduroy may seem a little tricky, but it’s also incredibly rewarding. With these beginner projects, you’ll master this timeless fabric in no time.

Sewing with Corduroy: Tips to Master the Nap and Avoid Common Mistakes

Corduroy’s nap is its defining feature, but it requires care. Follow these tips:

Cut in One Direction: Always align your pattern pieces in the same direction to maintain a consistent look.
Mark the Nap: Use tailor’s chalk to indicate the nap direction on the fabric’s back.
Adjust Your Tools: Use a walking foot and an 80/20 needle to handle the fabric’s ridges with ease.

Mastering the nap ensures your finished garment looks professional and polished.

Why the Nap Matters

When sewing with corduroy, aligning the nap is crucial. It affects the colour and sheen of your garment. Light hits those ridges differently depending on their direction, giving your piece that lush, velvety look.

Top 10 Sewing Tips for Working with Corduroy: Tools, Techniques, and Finishes

Cut in One Direction: Always cut your pattern pieces in the same direction. Consistency is key to avoiding a mismatched, patchwork appearance.
Cut with Care: Corduroy demands precision in cutting. Those wales are vertical lines and it will be so obvious if you cut your fabric on the wonk. Lay your fabric flat, ensuring all pieces are aligned in the same direction, and measure the grain line arrow parallel to the selvage edge – make sure it’s even, ok?!
Mark the Nap Direction: Before you cut, take a moment to mark the direction of the nap on the back of your fabric. A simple arrow with tailor’s chalk can save you a world of confusion later.
Pinning and Marking: Use fine, sharp pins to avoid marking the fabric’s surface. Consider using tailor’s chalk or a disappearing fabric marker for any markings.
The Right Needle and Thread: An 80/20 needle is a safe bet with a stitch length of 2.3-3mm. Paired with a strong, high-quality thread, will help you stitch through corduroy’s ridges. You may wish to loosen your top tension or use a walking foot if you find the fabric is travelling a little – the nap might cause this to happen.
Stitches and Seams: Opt for slightly longer stitches to accommodate the fabric’s thickness and texture. When it comes to seams, pressing open and trimming or grading seam allowances will reduce bulk and maintain the garment’s silhouette.
Pressing Matters: Pressing corduroy requires a gentle touch. Use a press cloth to protect the nap from becoming crushed or shiny. Steam and a lifting motion, rather than dragging the iron, will keep the fabric’s texture intact. Think of it as grooming a thoroughbred; finesse is key.
Handling Stretch Corduroy: If you’re venturing into the realm of stretch corduroy, remember to use a ballpoint needle and a stretch stitch setting on your machine.
Finishing Touches: Consider serging or using a zigzag stitch on raw edges to prevent fraying. For a truly noble finish, adding a lining can elevate your garment, providing both comfort and a glimpse of luxury befitting its royal roots.
Embrace the Nap for Texture: Feeling adventurous? Use the nap to add texture and depth to your design. A pocket or collar against the nap can add a subtle contrast, making your piece pop. Be warned though – a little goes a long way.

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What’s your take on corduroy? Is it a fashion yes, or a hard no

Love this dive into corduroy’s storied past? Subscribe for more textile tales, and don’t forget to ❤️ and share your thoughts below. Feel free to spill your ‘corduroy confessions’ in the comments – I’d really appreciate it!

My Guide To Waterproof Fabrics in Sewing World Magazine

by Kellie Rose | Oct 30, 2014 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Main Menu

A very chuffed Plushette here once again to let you know that I’m in Sewing World Magazine again this month talking about waterproof fabrics. It’s another jam-packed issue I am finding the Vilene series in particular very informative indeed and there’s also an excerpt from Lauren Guthrie’s new book too which is a tutorial on how to make a big weekend bag.

This is my third article for Sewing World (eeek!), you can read about the two here and here. Don’t forget there’s a discounted subscription offer available for Plush Addict customers. You can get a 12 month subscription for only £39.99 (that’s a saving of £19.89) use the code PLUSH14 at check out here. Grab yourself a copy and sit down for a good read with a cuppa, I’m in the “Techniques” section. You can also get your mitts on this magazine at WH Smiths. Next month is the last in the series and I’ll be writing about natural alternative sustainable fabrics. I’ve really enjoyed writing this series and I’m looking forward to doing a bit more writing in the New Year once the Christmas mayhem has subsided at Plush Towers a little. I hope you enjoy it!

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