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A Fabric Guide: Canvas

A Fabric Guide: Canvas

by | Feb 26, 2021 | Canvas, Fabric Guides, Product Guides, Tutorials

Do you have questions about canvas fabric? Is it Canvas, Canevas or Cannapaceus?

We can just about pronounce cannapaceus without getting confuddled!

For ease (and mental overload) let’s stick with canvas.

So What Is Canvas Fabric?

 

Canvas is a durable cotton fabric with a tight, plain weave and a 2 ply yarn.

It sometimes feels a little rough to touch because of the fibrous parts of the cotton, linen, flax or hemp plants that are used to form the yarn and the resulting thread isn’t usually combed.

We recommend giving your hands a good moisture after you’re done sewing if your project is heavy on canvas fabric!

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Grab 10% OFF on Canvas fabric with our discount code!

CANVAS-SAVING-10

Use the code above at checkout for 10% off.

A Little History Of Canvas Fabric

 

While the earliest known evidence of canvas comes from ancient India around 1500 B.C. The name came later when production spread to Europe in the eighth century.

The word ‘canvas’ is from the old French canevas, which may have roots in the Latin ‘cannapaceus’, meaning “made of hemp”. (did you skip over cannapaceus reading this in your head?!)

Originally popular with sailmakers due to its natural resistance to water; popularity grew in the 16th century when painters found it to be a more versatile surface than wood and plaster (frescoes). Canvas was a cheaper and readily available alternative!

Denim has a similar feel to canvas, though the 2 can be identified by the weave; denim has a twill weave, resulting in quite different properties. Sometimes referred to as ‘duck’, though duck has a tighter weave and slightly heavier feel.

What Is Canvas Used For?

 

Canvas has many uses in the modern world thanks to how versatile it is! Canvas is a sturdy fabric with little drape so its best suited for projects that need structure.

Canvas makes a great gardening apron

When planning sewing projects canvas is ideal for:

  • Upholstery
  • Seat covers
  • Window dressing
  • Bag making
  • Tote bags
  • Fabric baskets
  • Laptop Cases
  • Aprons
  • Jackets/ coats
  • Interlining and lining
  • Footstools & Pouffes

How To Sew Canvas:

 

Wondering what needle you need for sewing canvas? Or stitch length? Check out our top tips on sewing canvas :

  • Thread: Sew all or upholstery
  • Needle size: 100/16 HJ or 110/18 HJ
  • Stitch length: 3mm
  • Presser foot: Standard
  • Seam finish: Press open and overlock where needed. Flat fell is also a good seam for canvas makes to make your project even more robust
  • No need to pre wash if project will be dry cleaned
  • Pre wash canvas to soften it
  • No need for interfacing – canvas is sturdy enough on it’s own

Canvas Bag

The manufacturing process uses a lot of chemicals which is a shame as it gives canvas a higher environmental impact, although there are some organic & PVC free options available. It’s still a tricky one for environmentally friendly seam-stars.

That said – taking its environmental impact into account, canvas projects with longevity are a more conscientious choice for the fabric than fast fashion items.

Fun Canvas Facts:

 

  • Canvas can be blended with other fibres, it’s not always 100% cotton.
  • Wet canvas fibres swell, making it naturally resistant to water.
  • In the 13th century canvas was added to shields, it is believed this was for strength as well as making the surface paintable.
  • Artists’ canvas are stretched cotton/linen canvas coated in primer (gesso).
  • A popular footwear brand are iconic for their use of canvas in shoes.
  • It’s even used for martial arts outfits!

We Hope you found this fabric guide helpful and it gives you some guidance on how to use canvas fabric!

Hop over to the website if you’re in need of some versatile canvas fabric or pin this guide for later

Are there any other fabrics you’d like to see guides for? Let us know in the comments 🙂

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials. Please tag us @PlushAddict on your fave social media channel… we’d love to see your makes!

Toy Storage Basket and Play Mat Sewing Tutorial

Toy Storage Basket and Play Mat Sewing Tutorial

by | Feb 16, 2021 | Tutorials

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

You can never have too much storage & this innovative toy storage little basket and play mat won’t only keep toys, such as Lego, stored away – it can also help with the tidying up in a flash!

To complete this project you will need to feel comfortable sewing curves through multiple, sometimes thick, layers & be accurate in your measuring & cutting.

Skill Level: Intermediate seam-star

Skills you will learn:

  • How to draft and cut circles of any size
  • How to sew curves
  • How to use foam as structure
  • Adding bias cord casing
  • How to Blind Stitch
  • How to Ladder Stitch

You Will Need:

For the basket:

For the playmat:

Sundries:

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An introduction to Style-vil foam

Vlieseline Style-vil is a great product to have in your sewing stash. It’s a thin foam layer which is lightweight whilst adding structure to your projects. We’ve used it here in the Toy Storage Basket to enable the fabric basket to stand up on it’s own.

Style-vil is the perfect choice for three-dimensional effects; for the padding of protective cases for mobile phones and glasses cases and it’s perfect for stabilising bags, pieces of clothing (e.g. shoulder pads) caps, hats etc.

Style-vil foam is another choice to use in place of fusible fleece or wadding in projects and gives a very professional finish to your bag or pouch, especially when teamed up with woven interfacing, like in the project below ⤵️

Check out the Vliseline blog to learn how to use Styl-vil in these cosmetic bags ⤵️

Style-vil used in cosmetic bags

Important notes for sewing the Toy Storage Basket:

 

1.5 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, always backstitch at the start & end unless otherwise stated.

Pre-wash your fabrics

Warning – Strangulation hazard, never leave children to play unattended.

Part 1: Making the storage basket

 

1. Cut out the following:

FROM BOTH THE OUTER & LINING FABRICS

  • 1 Basket side panel 107x33cm
  • 1 Lid side panel 113x8cm
  • 1 Base circle 33cm diameter*
  • 1 Lid circle 35cm diameter*

Style-Vil Foam

  • 1 Basket side panel 104x30cm
  • 1 Lid side panel 110x5cm
  • 1 Base circle 30cm diameter*
  • 1 Lid circle 32cm diameter*

Buckram

  • 1 base circle 30cm diameter*

* How to draft and cut circles

 

This example is for one of the base circles, but is easily adjusted for any size circle.

a) Calculate the radius of the circle (diameter, the width of a circle, divided by 2). 33 ÷ 2 = 16.5

b) Lay the fabric out flat and fold over approx. 16.5cm of the cut edge and hand press along the crease.

c) Fold over the selvedge edge approx. 16.5cm – DO NOT include the selvedge in the measurement. Hand press the crease.

d) Position the end of a tape measure in the corner where the 4 layers of fabric meet.

Step d)

e) From that point, measure and make a mark 16.5cm along one of the creased edges.

f) Pivoting the tape measure with the end always in the corner, move the 16.5cm measurement about 2cm away from the fold and make another mark. Continue to make marks at 2cm intervals until the tape lies along the other folded edge. The marks will form a quarter circle shape

Step f)

g) Pressing down firmly on the 4 layers to hold them in place, cut out the marked quarter circle.

Cutting Style-vil circles

For bulky materials, for example; Style-vil, fold the fabric once allowing enough room to form a half circle of markings instead of a quarter circle. The top layer can be cut and then used as a template to cut the bottom layer.

Cutting Style-Vil

Cutting Buckram

Draw around the cut Style-vil base circle as a template for the Buckram

NB – Do not cut Buckram with fabric scissors as it can dull the blade!

2. Sew the main basket

 

Follow steps 2. – 10. for BOTH the outer & lining fabrics

2. Take the basket side panel piece & lid side panel piece and fold each piece of fabric in half, align the 2 short edges right sides together and pin.

3. Sew along the edge using a 2.5 length straight stitch.

4. Press the seams to one side.

5. Mark 1/4 points on the bottom edge of basket side panel, top of the lid side panel and around the edge of the base and lid circles.

Step 1.5

6. Pin the 1/4 points on the base circle to the 1/4 points on the basket side panel right sides together. Then pin between the points to hold the 2 pieces together.

Step 1.6

7. Repeat step 5 for the lid side panel and lid circle.

8. Sew the pinned edges together using a 2.5 length straight stitch.

9. Clip V shaped notches* in the seam allowance at 2cm intervals on all 4 pieces (basket outer and lining, lid outer and lining).

*notches are usually around 5mm wide narrowing to a point stopping just before the seam line.

Step 1.9

10. Smooth the seam allowance over to the side panel. Understitch by sewing along the seam allowance 2mm from the seamline using a 2.5 length straight stitch. Watch the video below   

Step 1.10 Understitching

Why understitch?

Assemble the basket

 

Follow these steps for BOTH the lid and basket

11. Turn the lining pieces so the seam allowances are on the inside of the cylinders.

12. Put the lining inside the outer piece right sides together. Line up the side seams then pin the raw edges together.

Step 1.12

13. Sew around the pinned edges leaving a 10cm opening for turning. Use a 2.5 length straight stitch.

14.Turn the basket and lid out the right way and press. Tuck the 1.5cm seam allowances around the openings in and press.

Step 1.14

Add the Style-vil foam

 

15. Starting with the circles pieces (the lid being the larger of the 2). Roll up the Style-Vil tight enough to fit through the opening. Once the Styl-Vil is inside, manoeuvre the Style-vil to the correct position, then unroll the piece and smooth it out against the outer fabric. Watch the video below:

Step 1.15

16. Feed the side panel piece through the opening, the piece for the basket will need rolling up as per step 15. Align the short edge of the Style-vil with the side seam then unroll it, guiding the padding around the sides of the basket. Once in place, push the seam allowance around the top edge towards the lining and tuck the Style-vil behind it.

Step 1.16

Step 1.16

17. Starting at the side seams smooth down the outer and lining fabrics from the top edge toward the lid/ base circle to ease any twisting between the layers.

18. Hand sew around the Style-vil circles using blind stitch. Hide the stitches within the lining and outer seam lines.

Step 1.18 Blindstitching: Use a complementary thread and cast on by the side seam. The contast thread here is for demonstration purposes.

19. To hold the Style-vil side panels in place, hand sew along the lining and outer side seams using blindstitch.

20. Hand sew the openings in the lid and basket closed using ladder stitch.

Step 1.20 Ladder stitch: Use a complementary thread and cast on inside the opening. The contast thread here is for demonstration purposes.

5. Finishing touches

21. Top stitch around the lip of the lid, 1cm from the edge. Use a straight stitch with a length of 3 or greater.

22. On the inside of the basket pin or clip the hook side of the Velcro 8mm from the top. Centralise it over the side seam.

23. Sew a line of top stitching 1cm from the rim of the basket, sewing the top of the Velcro when that section is reached. Use a straight stitch with a length of 3 or greater.

24. Sew a second line of top stitching around the basket rim at the same depth as the bottom of the Velcro.

Step 1.24

6. Adding straps

25. Find the side quarter points: Fold the storage basket in half with one crease along the side seam and the other on the opposite side of the basket. Open out the basket then bring the 2 creases together. With the 2 creases aligned, flatten the bag to create 2 creases at the quarter points. Mark the top of the creases with pins, clips or a temporary fabric marker.

24. To make the straps, cut the webbing in half and hem/ seal the ends.

26. Working on 1 Strap at a time: align the 2 ends of the strap so they sit either side of the crease and are 10cm below the rim of the basket. Move the ends apart until they are each 5cm away from the crease, 10cm away from each other. Pin the ends in place

Step 1.26

Step 1.26

27. At the end of each strap sew a 3cm high box. The stitch lines along the sides and bottom needs to be approx. 2mm from the edge. For added strength sew from one corner of the box to the opposite one, repeat with the other 2 corners to form a stitched X within the box.

Step 1.27

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Part 2: Sewing the playmat

 

1. Cut out the following:

From the Ripstop nylon

  • 1 Play mat 150cm diameter* [Refer to earlier step 1.1 “How to draft and cut circles & watch video below]

Marking & cutting circles

2. Sew the cord casing

1. Hem the end of the bias tape: Open out the end of the bias tape and fold 1cm of the short edge over and press. Tuck the raw edge under to meet the pressed crease and press again to form a 5mm pressed hem. Straight stitch along the edge of the hem with a stitch length of 2.5.

<br /> Sewing the play mat step 1

Step 2.1

2. Find the position of the casing openings: spread the playmat out flat. Fold over 1 edge of the circle far enough to create a straight edge 1 metre in length. Hand press along the crease then mark the fabric at each end.

Step 2.2

3. Spread the playmat out flat again. Identify the shortest and longest distance between the 2 markings around the edge of the playmat.

4. From the mark at the start of the long section, open the outer fold in the bias and pin the bias around the edge of the playmat with right sides facing, edges aligned. Stop when the 2nd mark is reached.

5. At the second mark, cut the bias tape 1cm longer than the marked point. Fold over and press the 1cm and hem as per step 1. Keep the leftover tape to 1 side.

Step 2.5

6. Sew along the crease in the bias closest to the outer edge of the playmat. Use a straight stitch, 2.5 stitch length.

Step 2.6

7. Hem (see step 1) the end of the leftover bias tape from step 5.

8. At the start of the short section open out the bias tape and overlap the hem with that of the bias sewn in step 6. Pin the bias around the edge of the playmat with right sides facing, edges aligned. Overlap the hem with that of the attached bias. Do not trim the excess, leave an overlap.

Step 2.8

9. Starting at the hemmed end, sew the bias tape for the short section as per step 6. Stop sewing 5cm before the long section.

10. Trim the bias tape 1cm past the hem at the start of the long section. Fold over and press the 1cm excess then hem as per step 1. Pin and sew the last section of bias tape in place, the 2 hems should overlap.

11. At the 2 overlap points, press the 4 tips of the bias tape inwards at 450 angles.

Step 2.11

12. To finish forming the casing, start from one marking and fold the bias over to encase the raw edge of the playmat. The creased edge of the bias needs to overlap the sewn seam by 2mm. Pin the tape in place from the top of the mat. Ensure the 2 sets of hem ends overlap, these form the entry points for the draw cords.

Step 2.12

13. Machine sew ‘stitch in a ditch’ from the pinned side to form a casing: Consider top/ bobbin thread colours, sew with the stitch line at the back catching the bottom edge of the bias tape and at the front, sew along the existing seam line (steps 6 and 9) tight to the edge of the bias tape ‘the ditch’. Use a straight stitch, stitch length 2.5.

3. Add the velcro

14. Mark the position for the velcro: Align the 2 draw cord entry points, hold/ clip them together, then fold the playmat in half.

Step 2.14

15. Hand press the crease at the end furthest from the entry points, this is the halfway point in the long casing section.

16. Lay the mat out bottom side up (which is the bottom/ top is based on personal preference). Position the centre of the Velcro’s loop side across the crease forming a + shape. The velcro strip needs to be close enough to the edge of the mat for each end to touch the bias casing without overlapping it, move it further up or down the crease until the correct position is achieved.

Step 2.16

17. Sew one long edge of the Velcro from the centre outwards in each direction. Use a straight stitch, stitch length 3.

18. Sew the other side of the Velcro from one end to the other.

4. Thread the cord

19. Cut the polyester woven cord in half and seal the ends.

20. Start at one of the draw cord entry points; using a bodkin or safety pin thread one of the cords through both the short and long casing sections and exit at the start point.

21. Secure the ends together with a knot.

22. Repeat step 20 from the other entry point to create 2 rings of draw cord within the casing. Secure the ends as per step 21.

Part 3: Setting up the toy tidy

 

1. Place the buckram in the bottom of the basket.

2. Align and stick the Velcro on the mat and bag together. And the Toy Tidy is complete!

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Pin For Later!

We hope you found this tutorial useful

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials. Please tag us @PlushAddict on your fave social media channel… we’d love to see your makes!

How To: Make A Dribble Bib – Free Pattern And Tutorial

How To: Make A Dribble Bib – Free Pattern And Tutorial

by | Jan 27, 2021 | Bamboo towelling, Tutorials

One of the most popular posts on my blog has consistently been The Best Fabrics for Dribble Bibs  & I’ve been planning on publishing a bib pattern & tutorial for a while now to compliment that post…

In these bibs I chose to use a cotton outer and a bamboo towelling & bamboo velour as backing fabric.

There are loads of other fabric choices you could use – check out the original post to run you through the options and the properties of each fabric

What You Will Need:

(measurements are for 1 bib)

Cotton fabric min. 25x40cm

Absorbent backing fabric min. 25x40cm (Read through your choices here. We prefer bamboo towelling or bamboo velour)

Thread

Kam snaps

*Important Notes*

1 cm seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise directed.

For steps using machine sewing, always backstitch at the start & end unless otherwise stated.

Pre-wash your fabrics

Disclaimer: Suffocation hazard. Never leave a child unattended when wearing a dribble bib. Always remove a bib when a child is sleeping.

Want a ready-to-use pattern? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the dribble bib pattern.

DOWNLOAD Pattern

Step 1: Print and cut the pattern

Print the pattern above.

Use the 1” test square to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check print settings.

Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the ‘fit to page’ option.

Step 2: Cut your fabrics

Cut out the following:

1 outer piece

1 backing piece

Step 3: Sew the pieces together

Sew the 2 pieces of fabric right sides together with a 1cm seam allowance. On one side leave a 5cm opening for turning.

Step 4: Clip the curves

Clip notches or use pinking sheers around the curves.

Step 5: Turning to right side

Turn the bib out the right way and press.

Step 6: Top stitch

Top stitch all the way round the outside 3mm from the edge.

Step 7: Attach the Kam snaps

Attach the Kam snap at the desired positions:

Add the female snap section to your right of the bib, smooth side to the front.

And the male snap section to your left with the smooth side to the back of the bib.

And you’re finished – well done!

If you’re making this as a gift, why not create a few in coordinating fabrics to complement a range of outfits?

Want a ready-to-use pattern? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the dribble bib pattern.

DOWNLOAD Pattern

We hope you found this tutorial useful!

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more guides!

How To: Sew An Eye Mask – Free Pattern!

by | Jan 18, 2021 | My Makes, Tutorials

Raise your hands if you want to learn how to sew an eye mask. Eye masks are great if you need a little time to relax and unwind. They block out visual ‘noise’ around you as the darkness tricks your brain into the state of calm it associates with sleep.

Warning: Strangulation hazard, do not wear an eye mask when sleeping.

What You Will Need:

Minimum size for all the fabrics below: 25x13cm

A printed copy of the eye mask pattern

Cotton fabric(outer) We used fabrics from Dashwood Studio Our Planet

Fusible fleece (padding)

Smooth Plush fabric (backing)

1m 20mm wide Bias tape

50cm Velvet elastic ribbon

Thread

*Important Notes*

1.5 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, always backstitch at the start & end unless otherwise stated.

Pre-wash your fabrics

Disclaimer – Strangulation hazard, do not wear an eye mask when sleeping.

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Step 1: Print and cut the pattern

Download the pattern here

Use the 1” test square to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check print settings. Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the ‘fit to page’ option.

Step 2: Cut your fabrics

Cut out the following:

1 Mask front

1 Padding piece

1 Mask back

Use pins to mark the elastic positions on the mask back.

Step 3: Position the elastic

Cut the elastic to the required length (head measurement minus 19cm). Pin the ends of the elastic right sides together pointing outwards at the marked points. The right side of the velvet elastic ribbon is to be against your hair to provide traction and avoid slippage.

Step 4: Apply the fusible fleece

Iron the wrong side of the mask front onto the fusible fleece.

Step 5: Baste the piping

Baste the bias tape onto the front of the mask, clipping around the curves.

Step 6: Assemble the mask

Pin the mask front and back right sides together and sew leaving a 5cm turning gap at the top.

Step 7: Clip the curves

Clip the curves and trim the seam allowance to 1cm.

Step 8: Finishing touches

Turn the mask out the right way and press.

Topstitch 3mm from the edge.

Voila! You’re all done! We hope you feel proud of your accomplishment and will enjoy your new cushion.

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

download printable

Don’t forget to share your finished makes with us – tag us @PlushAddict as we LOVE seeing your projects!

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials.

How To: Sew A Piped Cushion With A Zip

How To: Sew A Piped Cushion With A Zip

by | Jan 18, 2021 | My Makes, Tutorials

Do you agree that adding piping to your cushions elevates the look? If you’ve wondered how to sew piped cushions then we’re here to help!

Not only that, we’re going to walk you through how to sew a cushion with piping AND a zip! We’ve used woven interfacing to stabilise this cushion to make it so much easier

What You Will Need:

45cm square quilting cotton fabric

45x48cm quilting cotton for cushion back

0.5m Fusible interlining. Woven interlining gives best result

51cm Closed ended dress zip

2m Piping

Thread

If you are new to the wonders of Woven Interfacing then check out our full guide here

*Important notes*

1.5 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, always backstitch at the start & end unless otherwise stated.

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Step 1:

Cut out the following using the measurements above:

1 Cushion front and interlining the same size

1 Cushion back and interlining the same size

Step 2:

Apply the fusible interlining to the wrong side of the front and back cushion pieces following the manufacturers instructions.

Step 3:

Measure and mark a line 11.5cm from the shortest edge of the back piece.

Step 4:

Cut along the line to for the zip opening.

Step 5:

Tidy the 2 raw edges of the zip opening using an overlocker or zig zag stitch.

Step 6:

Clip or pin the 2 sides of the zip opening right sides together.

Step 7:

Baste along the zip opening (it’s important to use a large length stitch for easy stitch removal later) Use a 1.5cm seam allowance and contrasting thread.

Step 8:

Once stitched, Press the seam open.

Step 9:

Align the zipper teeth along the seam line.Position the zip pull side down zip bar at the bottom of the project, pull overhanging the top.

Step 10:

Tape or baste the zip in place.

Step 11:

Starting at the end nearest the zip pull, begin sewing using a 2.5 length straight stitch and a zipper foot. Backstitch at the start then sew down to the bottom of the zip. If the zip has a metal bar be careful near the bottom.

Step 12:

Stop sewing just below the bottom bar. Turn and sew across the bottom carefully. Backstitch for added strength.

Step 13:

Turn and sew along the other side of the zip teeth to the top and backstitch

Step 14:

Turn the cushion back over and unpick the basting stitches using a seam ripper. Remove all loose threads (a lint roller can help with this) then test the zip.

Step 15:

Fold the cushion front panel in half to find the bottom centre. Mark it with a pin.

Step 16:

On the right side of the cushion panel, pin the piping in place from the centre mark leaving a 5cm tail:

  • With the piping cord inwards, align the raw edges of the piping tape with the raw edge of the cushion front & pin in place.
  • Clip up to the piping stitch line in the piping tape to ease the piping around the corners.
  • Keep pinning until the pin mark is reached again. Don’t cut the tail end.

Step 17:

Baste the piping in place 8cm from the centre bottom mark. Stop sewing 8cm from the centre bottom leaving a 16cm gap. When sewing, use a zipper foot and sew close to the piping cord.

Step 18:

To join the piping take the tail from the right, move the left to one side. Position the piping tail along the bottom edge overlapping the centre bottom pin.

Step 19:

Align the crease of a spare piece of piping (or the other tail end) along the left of the pin. The spare piping should be at 90 degrees to the tape being attached.

Step 20:

Mark the piping to be attached along the left side of the tape from step 19.

Cut along the marking.

Step 21:

Repeat steps 18 to 20 for the left side, marking and cutting the tape right of the pin. The ends will form a small overlap

Step 22:

Unpick the 2 ends of the piping to the seamline from step 17.

Step 23:

Trim the ends of the cord, NOT the piping casing, to the pin mark.

Step 24:

Open out the ends of the piping casing. Line them up right sides facing at 90 degrees to each other in an L shape and pin.

Step 25:

Draw a line from the recessed casing corner on the left, to the recessed corner on the right. A triangle shape should form between the 2 outer edges and the drawn line.

Step 26:

Sew along the drawn line with a stitch length of 2.5, backstitching start and end.

Step 27:

Cut off the corner to leave a 5mm seam allowance and press the seam open. Tuck in and align the cord ends then finish basting the piping in place.

Step 28:

Align the cushion front and back rights sides together. Vertically pin the opening end of the zip then unzip it by 10cm.

Step 29:

Clip or pin the 4 sides of the cushion pieces together.

Step 30:

Sew the cushion front and back together using a zipper foot. Sew inside or along the basted piping seam to achieve a snug fit and hide the basting stitches Carefully backstitch over the 2 tape ends for strength.

Step 31:

Clip the corners and turn the cushion out the right way.

Step 32:

For a polished finish, press the completed cushion cover.

Voila! You’re all done! We hope you feel proud of your accomplishment and will enjoy your new cushion.

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

download printable

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Don’t forget to share your finished makes with us – tag us @PlushAddict as we LOVE seeing your projects!

We hope you enjoyed this tutorial!

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials!