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Crayon Roll Tutorial

Crayon Roll Tutorial

Baby Plush has recently got into drawing in a big way, apart from being irresistibly cute toddling around insisting she put crayon to paper it’s amazing how it can keep her occupied, quiet and still for such a long time and she’s not yet even 2. Always one to jump on any opportunity for 5 minutes of peace and quiet I figured it’d be silly not to make her a crayon roll which I can just pop in my bag when we are out and about and so far it’s a huge hit. 

Crayon rolls are super easy to make and you can knock one up in about half an hour (have you gathered I quite like these super speedy makes yet?!), here’s how I did mine. 

What you need: 

3 co-ordinating pieces of fabric 13 x 5 inches (I used fabrics from the Hello Tokyo Collection from Robert Kaufman)

1 piece of medium weight iron on interfacing 13 x 5 inches

1 piece of matching ribbon about 24 inches long

Matching sewing thread. I always use Guttermann Sew All Thread 

Step 1

Take the interfacing and iron in on to the wrong side of fabric C which will make the inside lining of your pencil roll

Step 2

Fold Fabric B in half length ways and iron

Step 3

Take your folded fabric B and place it on to the lining fabric C matching the bottom edges of the fabrics together.  Next draw lines in tailors chalk starting 1 1/4 inch from one short end and then at 3/4 inch intervals until you reach the other side.  Starting in the middle (in case your fabric shifts) sew down each line in a co-ordinating thread, these will make the pockets for your crayons.

Step 4 

Fold your ribbon in half and sew it in to one side of the crayon roll. I used a triple stitch to ensure it’s secure

Step 5

Place the outer fabric (fabric A) onto the other pieces of fabric so that the right sides are together and sew around the edges ensuring you leave an opening of a couple of inches so you can turn the right way. Snip the corners.

Step 6

Nearly there! Turn your fabric out through the hole you left and press, ensuring the opening is pressed flush and even to the rest of your sewn crayon roll. Top stitch all the way around ensuring your opening is sewn closed and fill with your crayons!

20 Minute Peg Bag Tutorial

20 Minute Peg Bag Tutorial

**UPDATE** Thanks for stopping by! I felt this project, first created in 2013, could benefit from an update so I’ve re-designed it and made the peg bag a little more polished. The updated version is still a very speedy sew so don’t fret!

Check out the updated peg bag tutorial here or read on for the original version…

I have no idea why I keep doing laundry-related tutorials seeings as I hate the task so much but it just keeps happening so I’ll roll with it. Inspired by Makower’s new fabric collection which goes by the name of “Wash Day” I’m a complete sucker for anything kitschy and retro so I decided I needed this fabric to cheer me on through the dull laundry days. And this really did only take 20 minutes to put together, hooray! 

You will need:

30 cm of the fabric of your choice.

30 cm of PUL which is here. (I suppose the PUL is optional but it gives the bags some structure and will also protect your pegs from rusting should you leave them on the line and they get rained on!) You could use regular fabric for the lining, just be sure to interface it to add some structure.

50cm of bias binding, I used a lace-edged bias binding

A child’s coat hanger (I stole this from my daughter’s wardrobe, it probably came from eBay)

Wonderclips or pins

Odif 505 temporary adhesive spray

Step 1

Lay your coat hanger onto your fabric and leave about a 1 inch allowance on either side of the hanger. Trim your fabric to size.

Step 2

Cut your PUL to the exact same size as the fabric. (I used a pinking blade on my rotary cutter as it gives a much nicer finish to the seams and is really easy to use) and then use some 505 spray to keep the 2 layers together

Step 3

Cut 2 strips of your bias trim to the same length as the short side of the  peg bag edge and sew along the 2 short ends

Step 4

Fold over the top of the fabric enough to cover the coat hanger and iron a crease line, and then fold in half down the length of the fabric and mark with a temporary fabric pen. You are marking where you are going to put the buttonhole to make the hole to put the hanger through.

Step 5

Make the buttonhole on your machine and carefully cut down the centre to make a hole

Step 6

With right sides together sew up the 2 sides of the bag. Clip the corners and turn out

Step 7

Turn the right way and place the hanger in place and voila! You are ready to peg, so hop to it!

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Best Fabrics for Dribble Bibs

Best Fabrics for Dribble Bibs

One of the most common questions I get asked is which fabrics should be used when making dribble bibs. If you Google “how to make a dribble bib” there pages of hits and so many different methods to choose from, I’m not surprised people get confused! Not that I’m going to prescribe a formula here as there many ways to skin this cat… but hopefully a bit of an explanation about the possible fabrics and their properties might assist you if you are at all confused.

So… What’s a dribble bib anyway? The idea behind them is that they will catch that plethora of dribbliness that babies seem to produce when they are teething. They tend to be worn throughout the day, rather than just at mealtimes and as such are also becoming a fashion item as many modern mums want their little people to look nice whilst drooling. With this in mind the trend is for dribble bibs to be decorative as well as functional and in a “bandana” style rather than the traditional bib shape.

These suggestions are by no means definitive, there are so many possibilities and it really does come down to your own personal choice at the end of the day. What works well for one baby might not work well for another so the best advise is to try a few combos and see which works best for you.

Before you read any further, check out our tutorial on “how to make your own dribble bib” (psttt there’s a free pattern in there too!) to give you a better idea of how a bib is constructed and and the materials you’ll need, it’ll help you in picking the best fabric for your need when you come back to this post!

Image courtesy of “My Little Patch”

Top Layer Dribble Bib Fabric Possibilities:

The top layer needs to be absorbent to soak up that dribble! The fabrics listed below are popular choices…

Cotton – a hugely popular choice. Cotton prints are easily accessible and come in a vast array of designs. There’s something to suit every taste, budget and outfit. It’s easy to sew too. Cotton is a thin layer to add, which is great as you don’t want too much bulk around your baby’s neck. See our amazing range of cotton prints .

Flannel – also known as brushed cotton or wynciette, flannel is just like  cotton but is a bit more tactile as it’s a little fluffier. Choose something from our range of flannel fabric.

Cotton interlock or jersey – knit fabrics such as these are also popular, they wash well and tend to fare better without ironing (who wants to iron a bib?) Make sure you use one with a high cotton content or the absorbency might be compromised. These fabrics tend to be a bit more expensive than regular cotton and you generally need a ballpoint needle to sew them. They are a little bulkier than regular cotton, but this means they absorb more too. See our selection of cotton interlock or jersey

Bamboo – mainly used as a backing fabric on a bib but there’s no reason you couldn’t use it on the top too. You could get away with a single layer of this fabric too, especially if using something like Premium Bamboo Towelling which comes in a few colours and is double sided. This would mean minimal sewing and a cost saving as you’re only using one layer of fabric. Bamboo on the top might be too plain for some if you’re after a stylish bib, but it would certainly be functional.

                                                                                   Image courtesy of “My Little Patch”

Bottom Layer Dribble Bib Fabric Possibilities: 

Again, there’s a lot of choice here. Some people opt for another absorbent fabric, others choose more of a barrier fabric for the back to stop the wetness from soaking through onto little people’s clothing. You need to consider how dribbly your little people are, and how long they might be wearing one bib. 

Microfleece – this is a really popular choice for backing fabric, it’s thin, soft and acts as a barrier in a bib so the wetness won’t pass through to clothing. It comes in a variety of colours so can be co-ordinated with your top fabric. It’s usually 150cm wide and cheaper per metre than some of the other possibilities so is an economical option. Our microfleece fabric is here.

Polar Fleece – this is a really economical fabric to use on the back of a bib so a good choice if you are on a budget. The polar fleece acts as a barrier to stop wetness passing through to clothes. It’s not as soft or thin as microfleece but it does come in a good range of colours. I wonder if bibs backed in polar fleece might be a little warm in the summer months, but we’ve never tried it so I could be wrong. Here is our selection of polar fleece.

PUL – this is polyester/polyurethane laminated knit fabric, it’s completely waterproof, yet still breathable so a good choice for being worn by a baby for a period of time. If you want your bib to have a complete barrier for the wetness then this is a good choice. It comes in many colours and patterns. Some people prefer to sew PUL with a walking foot. We have plain, patterned and sandwich PUL here

Plush fabric (formerly known as minky fabric) Plush is often used when a more luxurious bib is desired. It’s a gorgeous fabric with an incredibly soft and fluffy feel. It’s an incredibly addictive fabric (our name is testament!) as it’s so super soft and strokable. As it’s made from polyester it also has magical barrier properties so will stop wetness passing through to clothes. It’s more expensive than something like fleece, but it is rather special. It has a stretch and a pile so can be trickier to sew… lots of pins and a walking foot usually keep this fella in place though. Our extensive range of Plush fabrics (also know as minky) is here

Flannel –  Flannel is going to absorb more dribble rather than provide a barrier for wetness so you may need to change bibs more frequently to stop clothes becoming wet, but I think lighter weight flannel backed bibs are particularly great in the summer when I wonder whether man made fibres might be a little warm around the neck. Our flannel choices are here

Image Courtesy of “My Little Patch”

Bamboo velour – again this is an absorbent fabric rather than a barrier fabric but bamboo velour is a lovely choice for the back of a bib. It’s not too thick and being a natural fibre it won’t get too hot for your little one either. It has a short pile and is nice and tactile and fluffy.

Bamboo towelling –  an absorbent fabric, not a barrier fabric again and I’d say this is for a super dribbler! It’s much thicker and more absorbent than the bamboo velour as it has terry loops on both sides  of the fabric so there’s much more surface area to soak up moisture. Your bib will be thicker if backed with bamboo towelling but it will be incredibly high performance. Even though this is not a barrier fabric you shouldn’t need to change the bib so frequently as there’s so much more surface area to absorb moisture before it will go through to clothes. Again this is a natural fibre, our selection is here.

Bamboo Jersey – this absorbent fabric would be a nice pairing if you are using cotton interlock or jersey on the top so the fabric types match (this is by no means essential, it’s just another option). Again, a natural fibre so a great choice for the summer months to keep dribbly necks cool.

Phew! That’s quite a few fabrics to digest there! As I said at the start, there are so many possibilities and options, more than I have listed above but hopefully that’s a good starting point if you are wanting to make your own bibs.

 

Ironing Board Re-cover Tutorial

Ironing Board Re-cover Tutorial

My ironing board has been looking rather sad and sorry for itself for a while now and it’s been in the back of my head to recover it in some funky fabric, then when Mr Plush informed me that our current ironing board cover was made by the same company which have caused us such a headache over the word minky I decided urgent action was needed! (For some of the back story see this post. The iron-y (boom boom!) that we have one of their covers

Sad cover 🙁 Needs to be a happy cover 🙂

I hate ironing, passionately, so anything to ease the pain and make it a better experience for me is a winner. I need all the help I can get. With this in mind I decided to use a layer of Insul-Bright which is a reflective fabric so the heat from the iron will get reflected back to the reverse of the garment so it should make ironing easier. I also added a layer of polar fleece for an extra bit of cushioning.

Grab a cheeky 10% discount on your next Insul-Bright purchase with WARMORCOLD10. One time use per customer.

You will need the following (I have added approximate measures for the materials as the exact amount needed will depend on the size of your ironing board)

1/2m – 1.5m approx. 100% cotton, depending on the width of your fabric and whether the pattern has a direction (I used an Alexander Henry fabric as his cotton sheeting is a little bit heavier weight than other other quilting cottons)

1/2m approx. Insul-Bright insulating fabric

1/2m approx. polar fleece (optional)

2.5m approx. 25mm Fold Over Elastic

Make it easier with:

A walking foot

Wonder Clips

505 Spray

Step 1

Lay out your fabric and place your ironing board on top

Step 2

Draw around your ironing board, I used a 3 inch guide but you may want more or less depending on the height of your board

Step 3

Cut around your line so you have something that looks like this

Step 4

Repeat for your other layers

Step 5

If using polar fleece (I think this extra layer helps to stop the metal mesh marks from the board transferring on to your garment when ironing, but it does make it trickier to sew) Use a temporary fabric spray adhesive (I used 505 Spray)  between each layer of fabric to help stop it shifting whilst sewing and then trim around all 3 layers so the edges are all even.

Step 6

Pin the layers, or use these clips which are awesome when sewing layers!

Step 7

Sew the fold over elastic to the edge. NB, a walking foot on your machine will make this much easier.

The best way to do this is to fold the elastic in half and then place the layers in the middle of the elastic making sure the edges of your fabric are at the half way fold of the elastic.

Using a 3 step zig-zag stitch on your machine sew a few stitches to start off and then, with your needle in the down position, pull the elastic as taught as it will go and sew all the layers together, keeping the edges of the fabric butted up to the mid point  fold in the fold over elastic.

Step 8

Sew the elastic all the way around. Where the ends meet just over-sew so the 2 ends of elastic so the over lap.

Your cover should have a gather where the elastic pulls the fabric in and it should fit your ironing board snuggly!

Voila! Here is the finished result, the best looking ironing board cover in town!