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15-Minute Upcycled Fabric Tray Tutorial

15-Minute Upcycled Fabric Tray Tutorial

by | Mar 15, 2021 | My Makes, Project Ideas, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

These cute little fabric trays are a great beginner project. They stitch up quickly and are a very handy cute little item to have dotted around your sewing room. Use them to catch threads or keep your little sewing notions tidy and easy to grab. Perfect as a quick gift, scrap buster and a short satisfying sew…

Aren’t they just the sweetest little things?

You will need:

  • An old pair of jeans

  • 1 FQ Quilting cotton

  • Heavy Iron-on Interfacing or a woven interfacing. Vliseline G700 is great for this

  • Temporary fabric marker

  • Thread

3/8″/ 1cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed otherwise.

Step 1:

Decide which sized tray you are going to make. Cut your fabrics as per the the table :

Cut the following based on the table above:

1 x square Denim Outer Fabrics

1 x square Inner quilting cotton

2 x squares Interfacing Squares

Step 2: Iron on interfacing squares to the reverse side of both the denim outer & the quilt cotton fabric inner.

Step 3: With RST pin the outer and inner fabrics together

Step 4: Sew round the edge leaving a turning gap of approx 3-5 inches (depending on which sized tray you are making)

Step 5: Trim the fabric on each corner diagonally to reduce bulk, taking care not to snip through your stitches

Step 6: Turn to the right side making sure your corners are crisp (Use a sturdy pin to dig out the excess fabric in the corners helps here)

Pro Tip: The tool pictured above are Needle Grippers and they are SO helpful for turning out projects

Step 7: Press & pin the turning gap closed.

Step 8: Top Stitch all the way around the edge using a 3mm stitch approximately 1/8″ from the fabric edge , closing the turning gap.

Step 9: On both sides of every corner make a mark with a temporary fabric marker the distance from the corner as listed in the table below

Step 9: Match up the 2 marks on each corner so the lining fabric is touching. Over stitch catching both sides of the tray. Repeat for all 4 corners.

Congratulations! You’re done!

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Canvas Gardening Apron Tutorial

Canvas Gardening Apron Tutorial

by | Feb 27, 2021 | Canvas, Project Ideas, Tutorials

Gardening can be a muddy business so let’s bring a splash of colour to the potting shed with this apron.

This sturdy companion, with a trio of generously sized pockets and easy release belt, will keep tools on hand and provide a safe space for harvested goodies.

We’ve also added some complementary accessories with wrist straps; they are the work of moments and a super handy for those most used tools.

Get comfortable sewing with canvas and learn how to sew mitred corners by making this project.

If you would like some tips on sewing canvas fabric then check out our Guide To Canvas Fabric over here

Skill Level: Confident Beginner Seam-Star

You Will Need:

For the apron:

Per wrist strap:

We Used:

Apron:

Wrist strap:

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Step 1: Cut your fabrics

Cut out the following using the measurements above:

1 apron piece

1 pocket piece*

For fabrics with a directional pattern, please note that the 29cm measurement will run top to bottom on the finished apron.

* For colour blocked pockets: cut 2 side pocket pieces 15.5x29cm and a middle pocket piece 26x29cm. Join using a 1cm seam allowance.

Add the Ribbon Detail

Step 1: Make marks on the central pocket piece 10cm and 15cm from the bottom right corner working along the bottom edge (26cm) and up the side (29cm).

Draw diagonal lines joining the 10cm and 15cm points

Pin the wider ribbon along the 15cm line and the narrower along the 10cm line.

Sew the ribbon in place then trim the ends so they align with the edge of the pocket piece.

Step 2: Assemble the pocket

Align one of the side pocket pieces with one side of the central pocket piece and pin.

Repeat with the other side pocket piece then sew them both with a 1cm seam allowance.

Tidy the seam allowance; zig zag stitch or overlocking are ideal.

Mitre the corners

The following steps apply to the bottom 2 corners (3 sides) of the apron piece and all 4 corners of the pocket piece:

Step 3: With the fabric facing wrong side up, turn over 2cm of fabric along each side and press.

Step 4: Fold the raw edges under to the crease and press forming a 1cm border.

Step 5: Starting at one corner open out the 2cm hem on both sides, keeping the 1cm creases folded.

Step 6: Fold over the corner, the creases will have formed a small square. Align the 2 sides of the small square with the two 2cm creases on the underside of the napkin.

Step 7: Finger press along the crease.

Step 8: Unfold the corner and mark out the fold line.

Step 9: Fold the corner in half bringing the 2 right sides together.

Step 10: Pin and sew along the marked line.

Step 11: Trim the seam allowance to 3mm and clip the end.

Step 12: Turn out the corner, use a turner to shape the point.

Step 13: On the apron, press then sew all the borders with a 1cm seam allowance, on the pocket only sew the top border.

Step 14: Sew the apron

Fold over to the back and press the top 1cm of fabric on the apron piece.

Step 15: Fold over another 4.5cm and press.

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Step 16: Sew a line of stitching along the bottom edge to form the belt casing.

Step 17: Add the pocket

On the pocket piece, press pairs of 1cm wide concertina folds 10cm from each short edge of the pocket piece.

Step 18: Fold the apron and pocket pieces in half and hand press along the creases.

Step 19: Measure and mark a line 4cm up from the bottom of the apron.

Step 20: Align the bottom of pocket piece with the 4cm line matching up the 2 central creases.

Step 21: Position and pin the concertina folds so the centre of them is 13.5cm from the outer edge of the apron.

Step 22: Sew 2 lines of stitching, 5mm apart, along the centre of the concertina folds.

Step 23: Position and pin the edge of the side pockets 3.5cm from the edge of the apron.

Step 24: Sew 2 lines of stitching,1cm apart, along the edge of the side pockets.

Step 25: Sew 2 lines of stitching, 1cm apart, along the bottom edge of the pocket piece. Ensuring the folds are sewn in place.

Step 26: Finishing touches

Thread the webbing through the belt casing by folding the webbing lengthways.

Step 27: Release the Delrin buckle and add a piece to each end of the webbing. Secure the female end with 2 lines of stitching.

Step 28: The wrist strap

Cut and seal a 40cm length of 25mm webbing.

Step 29: Align the 2 ends and fold the webbing in half.

Step 30: Insert the ends into the fob clasp and press with keyring pliers.

And tadaaah! All finished 🙂

Well done seam-star!

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Don’t forget to share your finished makes with us – tag us @PlushAddict as we LOVE seeing your projects!

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials.

Toy Storage Basket and Play Mat Sewing Tutorial

Toy Storage Basket and Play Mat Sewing Tutorial

by | Feb 16, 2021 | Tutorials

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

You can never have too much storage & this innovative toy storage little basket and play mat won’t only keep toys, such as Lego, stored away – it can also help with the tidying up in a flash!

To complete this project you will need to feel comfortable sewing curves through multiple, sometimes thick, layers & be accurate in your measuring & cutting.

Skill Level: Intermediate seam-star

Skills you will learn:

  • How to draft and cut circles of any size
  • How to sew curves
  • How to use foam as structure
  • Adding bias cord casing
  • How to Blind Stitch
  • How to Ladder Stitch

You Will Need:

For the basket:

For the playmat:

Sundries:

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An introduction to Style-vil foam

Vlieseline Style-vil is a great product to have in your sewing stash. It’s a thin foam layer which is lightweight whilst adding structure to your projects. We’ve used it here in the Toy Storage Basket to enable the fabric basket to stand up on it’s own.

Style-vil is the perfect choice for three-dimensional effects; for the padding of protective cases for mobile phones and glasses cases and it’s perfect for stabilising bags, pieces of clothing (e.g. shoulder pads) caps, hats etc.

Style-vil foam is another choice to use in place of fusible fleece or wadding in projects and gives a very professional finish to your bag or pouch, especially when teamed up with woven interfacing, like in the project below ⤵️

Check out the Vliseline blog to learn how to use Styl-vil in these cosmetic bags ⤵️

Style-vil used in cosmetic bags

Important notes for sewing the Toy Storage Basket:

 

1.5 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, always backstitch at the start & end unless otherwise stated.

Pre-wash your fabrics

Warning – Strangulation hazard, never leave children to play unattended.

Part 1: Making the storage basket

 

1. Cut out the following:

FROM BOTH THE OUTER & LINING FABRICS

  • 1 Basket side panel 107x33cm
  • 1 Lid side panel 113x8cm
  • 1 Base circle 33cm diameter*
  • 1 Lid circle 35cm diameter*

Style-Vil Foam

  • 1 Basket side panel 104x30cm
  • 1 Lid side panel 110x5cm
  • 1 Base circle 30cm diameter*
  • 1 Lid circle 32cm diameter*

Buckram

  • 1 base circle 30cm diameter*

* How to draft and cut circles

 

This example is for one of the base circles, but is easily adjusted for any size circle.

a) Calculate the radius of the circle (diameter, the width of a circle, divided by 2). 33 ÷ 2 = 16.5

b) Lay the fabric out flat and fold over approx. 16.5cm of the cut edge and hand press along the crease.

c) Fold over the selvedge edge approx. 16.5cm – DO NOT include the selvedge in the measurement. Hand press the crease.

d) Position the end of a tape measure in the corner where the 4 layers of fabric meet.

Step d)

e) From that point, measure and make a mark 16.5cm along one of the creased edges.

f) Pivoting the tape measure with the end always in the corner, move the 16.5cm measurement about 2cm away from the fold and make another mark. Continue to make marks at 2cm intervals until the tape lies along the other folded edge. The marks will form a quarter circle shape

Step f)

g) Pressing down firmly on the 4 layers to hold them in place, cut out the marked quarter circle.

Cutting Style-vil circles

For bulky materials, for example; Style-vil, fold the fabric once allowing enough room to form a half circle of markings instead of a quarter circle. The top layer can be cut and then used as a template to cut the bottom layer.

Cutting Style-Vil

Cutting Buckram

Draw around the cut Style-vil base circle as a template for the Buckram

NB – Do not cut Buckram with fabric scissors as it can dull the blade!

2. Sew the main basket

 

Follow steps 2. – 10. for BOTH the outer & lining fabrics

2. Take the basket side panel piece & lid side panel piece and fold each piece of fabric in half, align the 2 short edges right sides together and pin.

3. Sew along the edge using a 2.5 length straight stitch.

4. Press the seams to one side.

5. Mark 1/4 points on the bottom edge of basket side panel, top of the lid side panel and around the edge of the base and lid circles.

Step 1.5

6. Pin the 1/4 points on the base circle to the 1/4 points on the basket side panel right sides together. Then pin between the points to hold the 2 pieces together.

Step 1.6

7. Repeat step 5 for the lid side panel and lid circle.

8. Sew the pinned edges together using a 2.5 length straight stitch.

9. Clip V shaped notches* in the seam allowance at 2cm intervals on all 4 pieces (basket outer and lining, lid outer and lining).

*notches are usually around 5mm wide narrowing to a point stopping just before the seam line.

Step 1.9

10. Smooth the seam allowance over to the side panel. Understitch by sewing along the seam allowance 2mm from the seamline using a 2.5 length straight stitch. Watch the video below   

Step 1.10 Understitching

Why understitch?

Assemble the basket

 

Follow these steps for BOTH the lid and basket

11. Turn the lining pieces so the seam allowances are on the inside of the cylinders.

12. Put the lining inside the outer piece right sides together. Line up the side seams then pin the raw edges together.

Step 1.12

13. Sew around the pinned edges leaving a 10cm opening for turning. Use a 2.5 length straight stitch.

14.Turn the basket and lid out the right way and press. Tuck the 1.5cm seam allowances around the openings in and press.

Step 1.14

Add the Style-vil foam

 

15. Starting with the circles pieces (the lid being the larger of the 2). Roll up the Style-Vil tight enough to fit through the opening. Once the Styl-Vil is inside, manoeuvre the Style-vil to the correct position, then unroll the piece and smooth it out against the outer fabric. Watch the video below:

Step 1.15

16. Feed the side panel piece through the opening, the piece for the basket will need rolling up as per step 15. Align the short edge of the Style-vil with the side seam then unroll it, guiding the padding around the sides of the basket. Once in place, push the seam allowance around the top edge towards the lining and tuck the Style-vil behind it.

Step 1.16

Step 1.16

17. Starting at the side seams smooth down the outer and lining fabrics from the top edge toward the lid/ base circle to ease any twisting between the layers.

18. Hand sew around the Style-vil circles using blind stitch. Hide the stitches within the lining and outer seam lines.

Step 1.18 Blindstitching: Use a complementary thread and cast on by the side seam. The contast thread here is for demonstration purposes.

19. To hold the Style-vil side panels in place, hand sew along the lining and outer side seams using blindstitch.

20. Hand sew the openings in the lid and basket closed using ladder stitch.

Step 1.20 Ladder stitch: Use a complementary thread and cast on inside the opening. The contast thread here is for demonstration purposes.

5. Finishing touches

21. Top stitch around the lip of the lid, 1cm from the edge. Use a straight stitch with a length of 3 or greater.

22. On the inside of the basket pin or clip the hook side of the Velcro 8mm from the top. Centralise it over the side seam.

23. Sew a line of top stitching 1cm from the rim of the basket, sewing the top of the Velcro when that section is reached. Use a straight stitch with a length of 3 or greater.

24. Sew a second line of top stitching around the basket rim at the same depth as the bottom of the Velcro.

Step 1.24

6. Adding straps

25. Find the side quarter points: Fold the storage basket in half with one crease along the side seam and the other on the opposite side of the basket. Open out the basket then bring the 2 creases together. With the 2 creases aligned, flatten the bag to create 2 creases at the quarter points. Mark the top of the creases with pins, clips or a temporary fabric marker.

24. To make the straps, cut the webbing in half and hem/ seal the ends.

26. Working on 1 Strap at a time: align the 2 ends of the strap so they sit either side of the crease and are 10cm below the rim of the basket. Move the ends apart until they are each 5cm away from the crease, 10cm away from each other. Pin the ends in place

Step 1.26

Step 1.26

27. At the end of each strap sew a 3cm high box. The stitch lines along the sides and bottom needs to be approx. 2mm from the edge. For added strength sew from one corner of the box to the opposite one, repeat with the other 2 corners to form a stitched X within the box.

Step 1.27

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Part 2: Sewing the playmat

 

1. Cut out the following:

From the Ripstop nylon

  • 1 Play mat 150cm diameter* [Refer to earlier step 1.1 “How to draft and cut circles & watch video below]

Marking & cutting circles

2. Sew the cord casing

1. Hem the end of the bias tape: Open out the end of the bias tape and fold 1cm of the short edge over and press. Tuck the raw edge under to meet the pressed crease and press again to form a 5mm pressed hem. Straight stitch along the edge of the hem with a stitch length of 2.5.

<br /> Sewing the play mat step 1

Step 2.1

2. Find the position of the casing openings: spread the playmat out flat. Fold over 1 edge of the circle far enough to create a straight edge 1 metre in length. Hand press along the crease then mark the fabric at each end.

Step 2.2

3. Spread the playmat out flat again. Identify the shortest and longest distance between the 2 markings around the edge of the playmat.

4. From the mark at the start of the long section, open the outer fold in the bias and pin the bias around the edge of the playmat with right sides facing, edges aligned. Stop when the 2nd mark is reached.

5. At the second mark, cut the bias tape 1cm longer than the marked point. Fold over and press the 1cm and hem as per step 1. Keep the leftover tape to 1 side.

Step 2.5

6. Sew along the crease in the bias closest to the outer edge of the playmat. Use a straight stitch, 2.5 stitch length.

Step 2.6

7. Hem (see step 1) the end of the leftover bias tape from step 5.

8. At the start of the short section open out the bias tape and overlap the hem with that of the bias sewn in step 6. Pin the bias around the edge of the playmat with right sides facing, edges aligned. Overlap the hem with that of the attached bias. Do not trim the excess, leave an overlap.

Step 2.8

9. Starting at the hemmed end, sew the bias tape for the short section as per step 6. Stop sewing 5cm before the long section.

10. Trim the bias tape 1cm past the hem at the start of the long section. Fold over and press the 1cm excess then hem as per step 1. Pin and sew the last section of bias tape in place, the 2 hems should overlap.

11. At the 2 overlap points, press the 4 tips of the bias tape inwards at 450 angles.

Step 2.11

12. To finish forming the casing, start from one marking and fold the bias over to encase the raw edge of the playmat. The creased edge of the bias needs to overlap the sewn seam by 2mm. Pin the tape in place from the top of the mat. Ensure the 2 sets of hem ends overlap, these form the entry points for the draw cords.

Step 2.12

13. Machine sew ‘stitch in a ditch’ from the pinned side to form a casing: Consider top/ bobbin thread colours, sew with the stitch line at the back catching the bottom edge of the bias tape and at the front, sew along the existing seam line (steps 6 and 9) tight to the edge of the bias tape ‘the ditch’. Use a straight stitch, stitch length 2.5.

3. Add the velcro

14. Mark the position for the velcro: Align the 2 draw cord entry points, hold/ clip them together, then fold the playmat in half.

Step 2.14

15. Hand press the crease at the end furthest from the entry points, this is the halfway point in the long casing section.

16. Lay the mat out bottom side up (which is the bottom/ top is based on personal preference). Position the centre of the Velcro’s loop side across the crease forming a + shape. The velcro strip needs to be close enough to the edge of the mat for each end to touch the bias casing without overlapping it, move it further up or down the crease until the correct position is achieved.

Step 2.16

17. Sew one long edge of the Velcro from the centre outwards in each direction. Use a straight stitch, stitch length 3.

18. Sew the other side of the Velcro from one end to the other.

4. Thread the cord

19. Cut the polyester woven cord in half and seal the ends.

20. Start at one of the draw cord entry points; using a bodkin or safety pin thread one of the cords through both the short and long casing sections and exit at the start point.

21. Secure the ends together with a knot.

22. Repeat step 20 from the other entry point to create 2 rings of draw cord within the casing. Secure the ends as per step 21.

Part 3: Setting up the toy tidy

 

1. Place the buckram in the bottom of the basket.

2. Align and stick the Velcro on the mat and bag together. And the Toy Tidy is complete!

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We hope you found this tutorial useful

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials. Please tag us @PlushAddict on your fave social media channel… we’d love to see your makes!

How To: Make A Dribble Bib – Free Pattern And Tutorial

How To: Make A Dribble Bib – Free Pattern And Tutorial

by | Jan 27, 2021 | Bamboo towelling, Tutorials

One of the most popular posts on my blog has consistently been The Best Fabrics for Dribble Bibs  & I’ve been planning on publishing a bib pattern & tutorial for a while now to compliment that post…

In these bibs I chose to use a cotton outer and a bamboo towelling & bamboo velour as backing fabric.

There are loads of other fabric choices you could use – check out the original post to run you through the options and the properties of each fabric

What You Will Need:

(measurements are for 1 bib)

Cotton fabric min. 25x40cm

Absorbent backing fabric min. 25x40cm (Read through your choices here. We prefer bamboo towelling or bamboo velour)

Thread

Kam snaps

*Important Notes*

1 cm seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise directed.

For steps using machine sewing, always backstitch at the start & end unless otherwise stated.

Pre-wash your fabrics

Disclaimer: Suffocation hazard. Never leave a child unattended when wearing a dribble bib. Always remove a bib when a child is sleeping.

Want a ready-to-use pattern? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the dribble bib pattern.

DOWNLOAD Pattern

Step 1: Print and cut the pattern

Print the pattern above.

Use the 1” test square to check the sizing. If the sizing is incorrect check print settings.

Depending on the device used, select ‘actual size’ or deselect the ‘fit to page’ option.

Step 2: Cut your fabrics

Cut out the following:

1 outer piece

1 backing piece

Step 3: Sew the pieces together

Sew the 2 pieces of fabric right sides together with a 1cm seam allowance. On one side leave a 5cm opening for turning.

Step 4: Clip the curves

Clip notches or use pinking sheers around the curves.

Step 5: Turning to right side

Turn the bib out the right way and press.

Step 6: Top stitch

Top stitch all the way round the outside 3mm from the edge.

Step 7: Attach the Kam snaps

Attach the Kam snap at the desired positions:

Add the female snap section to your right of the bib, smooth side to the front.

And the male snap section to your left with the smooth side to the back of the bib.

And you’re finished – well done!

If you’re making this as a gift, why not create a few in coordinating fabrics to complement a range of outfits?

Want a ready-to-use pattern? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the dribble bib pattern.

DOWNLOAD Pattern

We hope you found this tutorial useful!

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

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A Fabric Guide: Felt Fabric

A Fabric Guide: Felt Fabric

by | Oct 26, 2018 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Fabric Warehouse, Felt, Product Guides

Why in the world would you need a guide on felt fabric? Well, chances are, you’ve had your hands on felt before—remember the magic of Fuzzy Felt? Those were the days, right? Creating scenes with Fuzzy Felt was practically a childhood rite of passage.

Felt isn’t just any fabric; it’s the cool kid on the block, coming in a mishmash of shapes, sizes, and qualities. So, let’s break it down: how to pick the right felt for your project and dish out 11 game-changing sewing tips for felt fabrics.

Felt is that laid-back friend who doesn’t need to be woven or knitted to hang together. It’s made from fibers chilling out together, getting tangled when needled, or just lounging in some heat.

True felt is like a cosmopolitan at a party, made from anything—wool, fur, mohair, cotton, rayon/viscose, or other synthetic fibers. Making felt is like crafting a fine cocktail: pound those fibers, compress them, shrink them, then add a splash of moisture, a dash of temperature change, pressure, and finally, rough them up a bit. Talk about a process!

Felt Fabric Guide Sample Project: What’s Felt Good For?

Depending on the felt, it can either be your go-to for crafty shenanigans or the MVP for sturdier projects.

Retail stores usually flaunt two types: acrylic (the life of the party for crafts, Christmas ornaments, appliqués) and wool felt (the durable one, perfect for soft toys that’ll see a lot of action, not to mention chic bags, hats, and sneaky garment details).

Fun Felt Facts (That Are Actually Fun)
  1. Felt is the Houdini of fabrics—it doesn’t unravel.
  2. Sewing with felt is as stable as your bestie.
  3. Don’t you dare dry clean felt; it’s more sensitive than your ex.
  4. Felt can get a bit clingy, bobbling and pilling with too much attention.
  5. Stretched felt is like a bad haircut; there’s no coming back.
  6. Steam? Felt can’t even.

Top Tips for Sewing with Felt (Because We’re All About That Life)

  1. Let felt do its thing in the sewing machine and feed naturally through; don’t be pushy.
  2. Dry cleaning felt is a no-go zone.
  3. Be cool when pressing & use little or no moisture when pressing. If you must, use a pressing cloth.
  4. Hand wash felt like it’s a delicate treasure in cold water & a mild soap, then let it air dry.
  5. DO NOT  wring or twist felt as it will misshapen.
  6. Cut with precision—rotary cutters for the win, and keep your fabric scissors safe.
  7. Thread choice? Polyester or cotton will have your back.
  8. Needle and stitch length? Start with an 80/12 and aim for 2.5mm – 3.0mm.
  9. Presser foot: Use a standard presser foot
  10. Press those seams open, no need to finish—felt doesn’t play by those rules.
  11. Always sew a test seam.

Real Talk on Felted Fabrics

Felted fabrics like boiled wool and melton? They’re the posers of the felt world. True felt is all about those raw fibers, while felted fabrics are just playing dress-up after a shrink and full session.

DIY: Be the Maker of Your Own Wool Felt Destiny

Can’t find 100% wool felt? Make your own. Raid your closet for old wool blankets or jumpers, then give them a spa day in hot water and a tumble dryer. Check out this tutorial for the nitty-gritty and then brag about it on social media.

Did this guide help you? If it did I’d appreciate it if you’d leave a comment or a ❤️ on this post to help other people find my work! And if you’d like to hear more from me I’d love it if you would subscribe below… thanks so much!