How to Enlarge A Collar With A Collar Expander – No Sew! Care & Repair Series #4

by Kellie Rose | Aug 21, 2022 | Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

Welcome to post number 4 in our Care & Repair Series! Today we’re offering a solution to an annoying problem – how to enlarge a collar that is too tight… without any sewing! We’re going to be talking about how to use use a collar expander in this quick product guide.

We wanted to bring these little wonder products to your attention – who knew they were even a thing?!

These nifty little extenders are NO SEW and a great little temporary fix that can even be switched between garments.

With this series of Care & Repair blogs we really want to bring into focus all sorts of different ways in which we can all reuse, repurpose, repair and rejuvenate the clothes that we already own.

A shocking 300,000 tonnes of discarded clothing goes to landfill every year in the UK. according to Wrap, the waste charity, this is up 5% of the UK’s carbon and water footprint. And small things like this can really add up.

Being able to adjust the size of a collar that’s snug can help give a shirt a longer life. These collar expanders can also be used on skirt or trouser waistbands too!

Expanders aren’t permanent fixtures to your garments so they can easily be switched between different shirts – just make sure you take them out before your shirt goes in the wash!

The collar expanders come in a variety of sizes and finishes…. make sure you select the best match for your garment, although it’s unlikely you will see it if you’re wearing a tie, you do need to make sure the collar expander will fit through your garment’s existing buttonhole

These plastic collar extenders will increase the neck size of a shirt by half a collar size and do not stretch.

The other metal extenders do stretch and come in a variety of sizes

How to Enlarge A Collar With A Collar Expander

Choose the collar extender that best matches your garment

Take the white disc in your fingers and feed the loop through the buttonhole.

Loop the band over the existing button on the collar.

Alternatively you can start by looping the loop around the existing button and then feeding the white disc through the buttonhole.

This is what the collar extenders look like when used correctly.

6. The larger collar extenders can also be used for waistbands. You need to match the size of the disc on the Expanders as closely as possible to the original button.

And that’s it! It really couldn’t be more simple, could it?

Check out Hemline’s video for a demo of the metal variety, which are stretchy, rather than fixed like this one

Thank you for supporting our online shop with your sewing shopping… It means the world to us & enables us to keep putting out FREE content like this for you to make & create ❤️

Linking Collar or Waist Expanders Together

Should you need greater ease at the waistband or collar, the expanders can be looped together to create a larger stretch like this.

So you can see how easy it is to prolong the life of your garment if it’s become a bit snug.

Stay tuned for more posts in our Care & Repair series

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How to repair a trouser pocket: Care & Repair Series #3

by Kellie Rose | May 19, 2022 | Care and Repair, Haberdashery, Haberdashery Guides, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

Welcome to post number 3 in our Care & Repair Series! Hand up if you love a pocket?! 🙋‍♀️ Pockets are a complete joy to dressmakers everywhere… but what if your pocket wears out? In this post we’re going to walk you through how to repair a pocket. This method can be used for trousers or skirts.

You can also use this method to repair a pocket in a shop bought garment if the pockets are too small for your needs. The joys of sewing, eh?!

Read on to learn how to repair a pocket… it’s easier than you think. We’ve even got a no sew option for you…

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Pockets are great for keeping all kinds of useful stuff… from your phone, to loose change, even the occasional biscuit! Because pockets are so well used, they come under huge amounts of wear & tear.

Pocket bags are usually made from a thinner fabric than the outer trousers or skirt and so holes can be commonplace. And instead of outing a garment and sending it to landfill just because your keys are falling through a pocket hole you can learn to replace the pockets instead. It’s a win for the planet!

Soap box alert! When it comes to pockets in girls’ and women’s clothing. As a general rule of thumb, female fashions have sported pockets that are for purely fashion reasons rather than practical ones.

This certainly annoys my daughter who feels the need to fill her pockets with stones and twigs at every given opportunity. So here I am repairing a hole in her jeans pocket but also extending the pocket bags for her.

In this post we’re going to walk you though

How to replace a pocket bag using sewing
How to replace a pocket without sewing
Create larger pocket bags for your garments

Tutorial: How To Replace A Trouser Pocket

Skill level required: Beginner Friendly

Some important notes about replacement pocket products

Replacement pockets come as whole pockets. You can cut them down to the size you require or use them to replace the whole pocket if needed.
We are concentrating on trouser pockets here but the same method, and replacement pockets, can be used to repair pockets in trousers, skirts, jeans, dresses, jackets and more. Just check the pocket sizes against your garment as each one differs.
In this post we are using two different products, a sew-in version and an iron-on version. It is up to you to choose which is the most suitable for your needs.
The sew in pockets are trickier to use and require some sewing knowledge but they will last a very long time.
The iron on pockets are far simpler to use and don’t require any sewing at all but the repair may not last as long as sewn in pockets.
These pockets are are suitable to replace cotton, nylon, or polyester pockets.

You Will Need:

How to replace a pocket : The Sew In Method

Identify where the hole is in your pocket.

- Draw a line in a washable fabric pen just above the damage.
- If the pocket flap is stitched into the side seam, cut along this edge 1cm.
Trim the damaged part of the pocket away along the line you have drawn.

Trim the damaged part of the pocket away along the line you have drawn.

To mark the new pocket:

Lay the replacement pocket underneath the original pocket, lining up the edges.
Make sure the folded edge is lined up with the folded edge of the original pocket and the seamed edge with the side seam.
Allow for as much additional pocket bag as you wish to add.
Pin the two pockets together
Using the fabric marker, trace the edge of the original pocket onto the replacement pocket.

Turn the raw edges outwards and line them up so that the new pocket and original line up.

Stitch along the circumference to join the two pockets together using a 1cm seam allowance.
Finish the raw edges in your preferred way, either pinking, zigzag stitch, overcasting stitch, or overlocker, to prevent fraying.
Press the seam

Top stitch the side edge back to the side seam of the trousers to finish your mending project.

If you would like to repair your pocket by hand sewing then check out Hemline’s video here

How to replace a pocket : The Iron On Method

Start in the same way as you did with the sew in pocket.

Mark a line above where the damage is and cut along this line.
If your pocket is sewn into the side seam, cut along this edge approx. 1.5cm.

Insert the bottom edge of the pocket into the replacement pocket, making sure the adhesive tape covers the pocket fabric.

Pin it in place.
Using a hot iron and a damp cloth press the adhesive tape pressing firmly

Repeat the pressing on both sides of the pocket making sure to heat all of the tape.

Leave the pocket to cool for 10-20 minutes before moving it, allowing the adhesive to bond properly.

Your pocket repair is complete!

You can also check out Hemline’s video on how to use this product here

We hope you found that helpful! Do let us know how you get on if you repair a pocket

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How To Use Waistband Extenders – No Sew! Care & Repair Series #2

by Kellie Rose | Apr 27, 2022 | Care and Repair, Haberdashery, Haberdashery Guides, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing

Welcome to post number 2 in our Care & Repair Series! Today we’re offering a solution to a common problem – how to really quickly and easily extend a waistband… without any sewing! We’ll highlight this little wonder product and run you through why you might need them and how to use these waistband extenders.

Let’s be real. The pandemic has meant that many of us have put on some extra pounds and clothes might have become a little snug!

Or perhaps you’re in the early stages of pregnancy and could do with an extra bit of room before buying some maternity clothes?

And let’s not forget – some days we’re just bigger than others… This can be due to our monthly cycles, or perhaps eating certain foods can make you bloat.

You might need some extra comfort post-surgery, or just after a jolly good meal! Or perhaps something has shrunk in the wash (that old chestnut…!)

Our bodies can even fluctuate in size from day to day so a quick temporary fix can help ease discomfort.

We wanted to bring this little wonder products to your attention – who knew they were even a thing?!

And as these nifty little extenders are a NO SEW temporary fix it means they can even be switched between garments to extend their life.

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With this series of Care & Repair blogs we really want to bring into focus ways in which we can all reuse, repurpose, repair and rejuvenate the clothes that are already in our wardrobes.

300,000 tonnes of discarded clothing goes to landfill every year in the UK, making up 5% of the UK’s carbon and water footprint, according to Wrap, the waste charity. There’s never been a more important tome to make do and mend.

Being able to easily adjust the size of waistbands can help give them an extra lease of life and also improve their comfort by adding a little extra room. The wasit band extenders generally give you and extra will extend the waistline by approximately 2.5cm- 5cm on your waist band and are suitable for trousers, jeans or skirts.

No need to replace perfectly good garments that haven’t worn out; this is better for our wallets and for the planet – win win!

Extenders are not permanent fixtures to your garments so they can easily be switched out as required. Just make sure you remove them before laundering!

The waist extenders come in a variety of options…. make sure you select the best match for your garment.

You can also link multiple extenders together to achieve the level of fit you require – read to the end of this post to see this in action…

How to use waist band extenders

Select the Waist Band Extender product which best matches the fastening and colour of your garment. There are button, hooks and jean button products to choose from

Waistband Expander

2. Thread the existing fastening through one of the holes on the extender piece

3. Thread the fastening on the extender through the garment hole

Voila! Extra comfort at the waist in a jiffy!

Check out Hemline’s video here to see how the hook product works

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Linking Waistband Extenders Together

Should you need even greater ease at the waistband, the extenders can be looped together to create a larger stretch like this.

See how easy it is to prolong the life of your garment if it’s become a bit snug!

How to Repair Bra Hooks: Care & Repair Series #1:

by Kellie Rose | Mar 19, 2022 | Care and Repair, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

Have you ever wondered if you can repair bra hooks when they get mangled in the wash? Or how you can save a bra that’s perfectly fine, but needs its bra clasp replacing? Keep reading and we’ll give you instructions on how you can quickly & easily complete a bra hook repair.

In this post you’ll find a full colour tutorial on how you can replace a bra back – it’s really not that tricky either. Yay!

This is the first post in our new Care & Repair Series…. we hope you find the series useful

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There’s never been a more important time to look after our belongings and Make Do And Mend

Being able to repair our clothes rather than just replace them is one of the biggest things we can do to contribute to saving our planet right now, and we know so many of our readers are eco-conscience Seam-Stars 💚

We’ll be publishing a series of helpful Care & Repair tutorials this year which will not only benefit your pocket, but also the planet.

We’ll be covering topics such as replacing pockets, mending and patching, replacing zips and more!

But if you’re already a mending whizz and you have some clothes to repair you can check out our really comprehensive care and repair range of products over on the website

Back to the bras!

Bras are a garment that every woman owns & wears almost all the time. This means your bras can suffer a great deal of wear and tear. One of the most common things to break over time on a bra are the fastening hooks.

By repairing your bra hooks on the bras that you already own you can save money AND help reduce waste sent to landfill!

Read on for info on how to replace your damaged bra hooks rather than have to fork out for another expensive bra!

Check our full range of Care & Repair products here

How To Repair Bra Hooks: A Sewing Tutorial

Skill level: Beginner
Approximate sewing time: It’s a super quick fix!

Tips To Consider When Replacing Your Bra Clasp

Make sure to match your replacement hooks with the original hooks in number and size as best you can
Even if only one side of your bra fastening is damaged, make sure you replace both so that the hooks and eyes match up.
The Bra Back replacements come in various different options, 19mm (1 hook), 28mm (2 hooks), 38mm (2 hooks), and 50mm (3 hooks) widths in black, white, and nude. Check out the full range here and select one that matches the bra to be repaired
To select the correct size for your bra, measure the width of the current hook and eye parts of your bra and select the width closest to it.
It is always best to go a little wider than too narrow, unless it means you will be sewing through a hook or eye.
Colour wise, select the colour that best fits the bra. If your bra is a different colour than what is on offer, I suggest selecting the colour which is closest to patterns in the bra, or if it is plain then opt for black if it is a dark colour and white if a pale one

You Will Need:

1 Hemline Replacement Bra Back. We used Hemline Bra Back Replacement: 50mm: Nude

Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

Small embroidery scissors or a Curved Tailors Awl
Tape Measure or ruler
Pins
Stitch ripper
Basic Sewing Kit

How to repair bra hooks

1. Remove the original hooks and eyes on both sides of the bra back.
- You will need to use a Stitch ripper or very fine embroidery scissors to undo the original stitching.
- Be careful not to damage the bra fabric itself.

1.2. Take the hook portion of the kit and position it on the right side of the bra back (as you look at it).

– Fold it around the raw end so that the hooks are on the inside of the back and are laying along the edge.
– Pin in place through all layers. If your replacement hook tape is slightly wider than the back of the bra you may wish to hem the edges and turn it through to create a pocket for the bra back instead.
– Here, the hooks are slightly narrower than the bra back. I will show you how to rectify this in a moment.

3. Change the presser foot on your machine to a zipper foot as this will enable you to stitch without the hooks getting in the way of the foot.
1. – Stitch a line of straight stitch through all layers to hold them in place.
2. Increase your stitch length to 3-3.5 – don’t worry if the stitches are a little messy.
3. – You may need to use the point of your embroidery scissors or a Curved Tailors Awl to help feed the fabric through your machine as the bra is so small it may not catch on all of the feed dogs. The fabric seams can also be quite bulky.
4. – Be careful not to keep your scissors away from the needle!

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4. Now the hook part is secure, remove the pin.

5. Keeping the zipper foot on your machine, select a narrow zig zag stitch. Here, I have changed the stitch width to 2.5mm and stitch length to 0.5mm.
- – Run a line of zigzag stitching along the line of straight stitch and the edge of the hook tape.
- – The satin stitch will cover up the straight stitch

1.6. If the back of your bra is slightly wider han the hook tape as with my bra pictured, push the ends of the bra inside the fold of the hook tape with a needle or stitch ripper.

– Use the same zigzag stitch along the edges of the bra back, catching the bra back fabric into the hook tape, and neatening the edges.

1.7. To replace the eye side of the bra fastening you have a couple of choices, depending on your skill level and how you would like to finish the bra repair.

The eye part of the bra fastening comes attached to elastic. If you prefer not to have this elastic you can unpick the zigzag seam holding it as indicated by the point of my scissors in the image below.
If you choose to do this you would attach the eye part to the bra in exactly the same way as with the hooks, only with the eyes facing the right side of the left bra back.

8. You may wish to keep the elastic in. This is a bonus, especially if the original hooks and eyes were damaged due to the bra fitting too tightly.
- – By using the elastic, you are creating more ease in the bra back for a more comfortable fit and also protecting the new hooks and eyes from resulting in similar damage.
- – If you are keeping the elastic in you will need to trim it down to the length that you will need. Add 2cm on to your desired length.

9. Place the left side bra back right side down and lay the raw edge of the elastic over the top, also face down, overlapping by 1cm. Pin in place.

10. Change your machine presser foot back to your universal foot and stitch a line of straight stitch through all layers to secure the eye elastic to the bra back.

1.11. Lay the bra back right side facing down and fold the eye piece back on itself, towards the body of the bra.

Next fold it back on itself again to the outside of the bra, enclosing the raw edges inside the rolled seam. Pin in place.

12. Sew a line of stitching down each long edge of the rolled fabric to create a sort of fell seam.
- – This will be very bulky and challenging to push under the machine foot so you may wish to use the point of your embroidery scissors again, or a Curved Tailors Awl to assist it through, again, being very careful!

13. Now, fix the hooks and eyes together and your bra repair is complete

And you’re finished, well done!

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