A Plush Addict Guide To: Quilt Wadding (Batting)

by Kellie Rose | Jun 3, 2015 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Product Guides, Tutorials

This Guide Has Moved & Been Improved.

See the Updated Guide Here

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Whether you’re new to quilting or a dab hand in that area, choosing which wadding you’ll need for your quilt can be a tricky business.

Not only are there loads to choose from, but there are so many words and phrases associated with wadding that just go straight over your head, am I correct?

Well we’re here to help answer all the questions you’ve never had answered, teach you the basic lingo and hopefully put your mind at ease for the next time you need to purchase wadding or attach wadding to your quilt project.

Wadding, or ‘batting’ as it is known in the US, is the layer of material in between your quilt top and backing fabric, and the type of wadding you choose will determine the way your sewed quilt will look and feel.

The first thing you need to consider is how thick you want your finished quilt to look. This is where the ‘high loft’ and ‘low loft’ come into play.

Loft

A high loft means the wadding is thick with more apparent quilting lines and will ‘puff out’ more, whereas a low loft is thin and better for a flatter finish and for showing off your piecing rather than the actual quilt lines.

Most quilters prefer to use a low loft as it’s easier to machine or hand quilt and a high loft can be difficult in this area due to too much bulk.

The good news is that low loft waddings are just as warm and cosy!

Composition

The composition is the next factor you need to bear in mind when choosing your wadding.

There are various benefits for all types of wadding, whether it be their great quality, durability or economical value.

Take a look at a few examples of wadding compositions along with their pros and cons and how you can better understand them.

Cotton

Cotton is a soft, breathable, natural fibre and a popular choice for many quilters. Cotton wadding tends to shrink if not pre-shrunk, creating a classic, wrinkly ‘lived in’ look, and whilst it’s usually a low loft, this can vary, so there are more options when choosing a wadding suitable for your project.

Some cotton waddings are needle-punched, giving them extra stability, making them a good choice for wall hangings or items that will be heavily machine stitched. For those who prefer hand quilting, you’d be better off looking for a cotton wadding without needlepunching or scrim. It is one of the more expensive waddings available, but with the price does come quality.

Polyester

Polyester is a popular choice which of wadding which has been used by quilters for years as it comes in a variety of lofts, is very durable and is less costly than all other commercial waddings.

It is light, doesn’t shrink and maintains its shape, but it isn’t as breathable and doesn’t drape (how it feels after being quilted) as well as cotton or bamboo waddings.

As it is one of the cheaper waddings available, it can have a tendency to beard after a while, which is more evident if your fabrics are dark coloured.

Bamboo

Bamboo is an increasingly popular choice because it’s a more sustainable plant than cotton.

This wadding benefits from being environmentally friendly and its naturally low lofts gives it a good drape. Plus, it’s soft, cosy and great quality!

It’s suitable for both machine and hand quilting.

You can find out more about bamboo by taking a peek here at our Absorbent Fabrics Guide.

Blends (poly-cotton/bamboo-cotton)

These combine the ‘best of both worlds’, and are designed to make quilts loftier and lighter while still providing the benefits of natural fibres.

Blends are easy to work with, a good choice for quilters who are unsure which wadding would be best for their quilt and also benefit from being cheaper than pure bamboo or cotton.

Colour

It might not seem like a big thing to bear in mind when choosing your wadding, but the colour you pick can affect your finished quilt.

Waddings generally come in three colours: white, natural and black.

Whilst white is the most commercially available and arguably the most popular, black wadding is a much better choice for quilting projects using darker fabrics as it won’t show through.

So before you buy, make sure you think about which fabrics you’ll be using for your quilt and which colour wadding would be most beneficial to you.

Should I pre-wash wadding?

We are constantly being asked whether you should wash your wadding and whilst many wadding brands will state that pre-washing is recommended – we don’t think it’s necessary.

Pre-washing your wadding DOES help to reduce shrinkage as well as take out any oils & resins, but as most wadding has already been washed during the manufacturing process we don’t see this as an issue.

But what about shrinkage?

There might be a small amount of shrinkage, but usually it’s not very much at at all – maybe 3%? And personally, we LOVE the slightly wrinkled effect on a washed quilt – it feels kinda vintage!

However, if you don’t like this look and want to pre-wash then it’s best to do it in the bath! Just pop your wadding in a bathtub full of hot water and leave it for a bit. Be warned – your wadding will be pretty darn sopping when you get it out, so it’ll be very heavy. Watch your back !

As you lift it, you’re probably going to stretch the wadding which may make it thinner in some places – this isn’t ideal.

You might try a delicates cycle or handwash in your washing machine but you run also the risk of it distorting your wadding.

If you do pre-wash then dry your wadding as flat as possible to avoid further stretching.

How much will I need?

It all depends on the size of your quilt.

Simply measure up the size of your quilt and buy as much as you need for your sewing project!

Most waddings are available by the cut half metre and they can also come pre-packaged in standard sizes for crib, twin, double and king, so you’ll be ready for the project that you wish to make from the get go.

And that should be most things covered!

If you’re still unsure about some of the words or phrases used throughout the guide, take a look below at the handy glossary.

Wadding Glossary

Batting: general term used for wadding in various countries including the USA

Drape: How a quilt feels after being quilted. Good quality wadding will allow your quilt to drape around you comfortably without being too stiff.

Loft: the weight and thickness of wadding. A high loft means it’s thick, a low loft means it’s thin.

Bearding: When fibres separate and push through the top layer of the quilt. Often happens with cheaper wadding

Needle-punched: mechanically felted together by punching them with hundreds of needles, causing the fibres to intertwine and bond together, making it denser

Scrim: a thin grid of polyester/synthetic stabiliser which is needle punched into the wadding to stabilise the cotton fibres and prevent them from bearding. Also adds strength and stops the wadding from distorting and stretching.

No scrim: With no scrim, the stitches must be quilted closer together to keep the fibres separating. Waddings with no scrim are a good choice for hand quiltin

We stock a variety of different wadding for all your quilting needs! Hop on over to the website and browse the world of wadding!

I hope that you’ve found this guide useful and that when you next need to buy wadding it will cause you less of a headache!

Happy quilting!

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Cloth Nappy Fabrics 101 Part 6: Stay Dry Fabrics

by Kellie Rose | Apr 24, 2015 | Cloth Nappy Making, Minky Fabric, My Makes, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing

Hello! And welcome to the last part of my nappy making fabrics guide. Last up we’re going to talk about “Stay Dry” fabrics which are often used as the inner layer of a nappy. We have up to 20% off all fabrics in our “Stay Dry” section and all orders placed over this week that you’ve asked us to hang on to will be dispatched today. We also have 20% off nappy making kits all week long.

What is a Stay Dry Fabric?

A stay dry fabric is generally a man-made fibre which feels (almost) dry to the touch after it’s gotten wet. These fabrics are said to have “wicking” properties, which means they draw moisture away from the skin and out in to the atmosphere so the moisture can evaporate. Let’s be real here, if you pour water on to any fabric it’s never going to be 100% dry but on these types of fabrics it will feel much dryer than an a natural fibre absorbent fabric which will just be sopping wet.

Why is this important in a cloth nappy? So your baby isn’t sat with wetness against his or her skin for any period of time. So how do stay dry fabrics do this? It all comes down to the wicking…

Most wicking fabrics are made from polyester blends, and synthetic fabrics don’t retain moisture like natural fibre fabrics do. Polyester holds on to a tiny 0.4% of moisture where as cotton retains about 7%. All polyester fabrics are not wicking fabrics, the wicking properties comes from the weave. The fabrics are constructed in such a way that the moisture is forced into and through the gaps in the weave

So there are a number of fabrics that can be used as a stay dry layer and each can perform differently. Our most popular choices are microfleece and suedecloth but some people choose to use cuddlesoft or plush too.

Microfleece

Microfleece is probably the most popular nappy lining fabric we stock, it’s a fleece fabric which is incredibly soft, thin, comes in a variety of colours and wicks moisture very well. No fabric will be completely dry when liquid is added but microfleece is one of the best at pulling the moisture away from the skin to the outer of the fabric and letting it evaporate and keeping you cool and comfortable. Because of this it’s also a popular choice for exercise clothing. We also stock an which has a smooth knit on one side and fleece on the other, it’s a great choice for slimming down your nappy even further.

Suedecloth

Suedecloth is a 100% polyester fabric which has a very short, fuzzy nap on one side and a smooth knit on the other. It’s much thinner than regular microfleece and is cheaper too. It works very well as a wicking fabric and is the fabric used as an lining fabric in many mass manufactured cloth nappies. It’s a popular choice as it comes in a wide range of colours and is only £3.99pm!

Other Stay Dry Options

Plush

Some people line their nappies with plush (minky) fabric. I had several nappies lined with plush and due to its luxurious and tactile nature it certainly made the nappy feel very special. Lining with plush does add bulk and in my experience it doesn’t feel quite as “dry” as microfleece or suedecloth but the performance is still adequate and it does have the bonus of feeling extra special.

Cuddly, super soft plush fabric

Cuddlesoft

Cuddlesoft is in essence a plush fabric without a brand name behind it. This means the quality isn’t as good as something like Shannon’s cuddle fabric, but it’s still lovely and tactile and usually a bit thinner so it makes it a good choice for a nappy lining fabric. In my experience it performs a little less well than microfleece or suedecloth, but it’s perfectly fine.

Well that concludes my series on cloth nappy fabrics and I hope you may have learnt something or perhaps been tempted to give cloth nappies a try. It’s by no means exhaustive and there are so many other ways to use the fabrics too, I’ve just mentioned some of the post popular. If you have any other questions or have an area that’s puzzling do get in touch and I’ll do my best to help.

Denim Jean Fabric: A Guide And Sewing Tips

by Kellie Rose | Jun 12, 2014 | Denim, Fabric, Fabric Guides, Product Guides

There’s nothing quite like a good pair of denim jeans, is there? It’s such a versatile fabric which only improves with age and wear. We have the French to thank for denim, originally woven in the town of Nîmes for overalls and sailcloth it was known as “serge de Nîmes” which got shortened to “de Nîmes” and the name was born. Denim is a strong and durable twill woven fabric made from 100% cotton. Traditionally the warp yarns are dyed an indigo colour and the weft yarn is left undyed which is why true denim fabric is different colours on either side (for real fabric geeks, if your denim is the same colour on both sides it’s actually jean fabric, not denim!) We have recently started stocking denim, you can see our collection here and we carry a wide range of weights (including fat quarters) and colours. We also have stretch denim which is particularly great for clothing makes.

Uses for Denim Jean Fabric

Denim is super versatile. As it’s 100% cotton it’s great for casual wear clothing such as jeans, skirts, jackets, shorts, children’s clothes, workwear overalls and protective clothing. As denim is very hardwearing it would also be great for home wear items such as oven gloves, cushions, decorative upholstery and bags.

A Guide to Denim Weights

Denim comes in a vast array of weights and one of our most frequently asked questions is whether a denim classes as light, medium or heavy weight.

Lightweight – or under 12 Oz.
Mid-weight – or from 12 Oz. – 16 Oz.
Heavyweight – anything above 16 Oz.

The rule is the heavier the denim, the better it will age and fade *but* heavier weight denim will be very stiff to start off with and take time to wear in and soften. The most common denims used, and the easiest to handle, are the light and medium weight.

Sewing With Denim

Denim is a rough and tough fabric and the main problem is poses for sewing is the thickness of the fabric, as such you need to right kit for the job to ensure success. 1) Use a denim needle which are stronger than “normal” needles and have a sharper point both of which will help you sew through a heavier fabric. 2) Use denim thread, it’s stronger and especially important on stress seams. 3) Go slowly! Those layers of denim might leave your machine struggling, if that’s the case then slow down and use your hand wheel. 4) Reduce bulk. Some machines will glide through layers of denim with no issues, others might not have the wellie needed to cope. If this is the case then reduce bulk where you can by pressing seams out flat or by using thinner fabrics as facings of linings which is not only practical, but will also add some pretty design features to your work. You can also trim seams right back to your stitching line (being careful not to cut your stitches of course) 5) Use a longer stitch length, about 3-3.5 should do it. Have you made anything lately with denim? I’d love to see photos if you have!

Best Fabrics for Dribble Bibs

by Kellie Rose | May 24, 2013 | Bamboo towelling, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Fleece, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing

One of the most common questions I get asked is which fabrics should be used when making dribble bibs. If you Google “how to make a dribble bib” there pages of hits and so many different methods to choose from, I’m not surprised people get confused! Not that I’m going to prescribe a formula here as there many ways to skin this cat… but hopefully a bit of an explanation about the possible fabrics and their properties might assist you if you are at all confused.

So… What’s a dribble bib anyway? The idea behind them is that they will catch that plethora of dribbliness that babies seem to produce when they are teething. They tend to be worn throughout the day, rather than just at mealtimes and as such are also becoming a fashion item as many modern mums want their little people to look nice whilst drooling. With this in mind the trend is for dribble bibs to be decorative as well as functional and in a “bandana” style rather than the traditional bib shape.

These suggestions are by no means definitive, there are so many possibilities and it really does come down to your own personal choice at the end of the day. What works well for one baby might not work well for another so the best advise is to try a few combos and see which works best for you.

Before you read any further, check out our tutorial on “how to make your own dribble bib” (psttt there’s a free pattern in there too!) to give you a better idea of how a bib is constructed and and the materials you’ll need, it’ll help you in picking the best fabric for your need when you come back to this post!

Image courtesy of “My Little Patch”

Top Layer Dribble Bib Fabric Possibilities:

The top layer needs to be absorbent to soak up that dribble! The fabrics listed below are popular choices…

Cotton – a hugely popular choice. Cotton prints are easily accessible and come in a vast array of designs. There’s something to suit every taste, budget and outfit. It’s easy to sew too. Cotton is a thin layer to add, which is great as you don’t want too much bulk around your baby’s neck. See our amazing range of cotton prints .

Flannel – also known as brushed cotton or wynciette, flannel is just like cotton but is a bit more tactile as it’s a little fluffier. Choose something from our range of flannel fabric.

Cotton interlock or jersey – knit fabrics such as these are also popular, they wash well and tend to fare better without ironing (who wants to iron a bib?) Make sure you use one with a high cotton content or the absorbency might be compromised. These fabrics tend to be a bit more expensive than regular cotton and you generally need a ballpoint needle to sew them. They are a little bulkier than regular cotton, but this means they absorb more too. See our selection of cotton interlock or jersey

Bamboo – mainly used as a backing fabric on a bib but there’s no reason you couldn’t use it on the top too. You could get away with a single layer of this fabric too, especially if using something like Premium Bamboo Towelling which comes in a few colours and is double sided. This would mean minimal sewing and a cost saving as you’re only using one layer of fabric. Bamboo on the top might be too plain for some if you’re after a stylish bib, but it would certainly be functional.

Image courtesy of “My Little Patch”

Bottom Layer Dribble Bib Fabric Possibilities:

Again, there’s a lot of choice here. Some people opt for another absorbent fabric, others choose more of a barrier fabric for the back to stop the wetness from soaking through onto little people’s clothing. You need to consider how dribbly your little people are, and how long they might be wearing one bib.

Microfleece – this is a really popular choice for backing fabric, it’s thin, soft and acts as a barrier in a bib so the wetness won’t pass through to clothing. It comes in a variety of colours so can be co-ordinated with your top fabric. It’s usually 150cm wide and cheaper per metre than some of the other possibilities so is an economical option. Our microfleece fabric is here.

Polar Fleece – this is a really economical fabric to use on the back of a bib so a good choice if you are on a budget. The polar fleece acts as a barrier to stop wetness passing through to clothes. It’s not as soft or thin as microfleece but it does come in a good range of colours. I wonder if bibs backed in polar fleece might be a little warm in the summer months, but we’ve never tried it so I could be wrong. Here is our selection of polar fleece.

PUL – this is polyester/polyurethane laminated knit fabric, it’s completely waterproof, yet still breathable so a good choice for being worn by a baby for a period of time. If you want your bib to have a complete barrier for the wetness then this is a good choice. It comes in many colours and patterns. Some people prefer to sew PUL with a walking foot. We have plain, patterned and sandwich PUL here

Plush fabric (formerly known as minky fabric) Plush is often used when a more luxurious bib is desired. It’s a gorgeous fabric with an incredibly soft and fluffy feel. It’s an incredibly addictive fabric (our name is testament!) as it’s so super soft and strokable. As it’s made from polyester it also has magical barrier properties so will stop wetness passing through to clothes. It’s more expensive than something like fleece, but it is rather special. It has a stretch and a pile so can be trickier to sew… lots of pins and a walking foot usually keep this fella in place though. Our extensive range of Plush fabrics (also know as minky) is here

Flannel – Flannel is going to absorb more dribble rather than provide a barrier for wetness so you may need to change bibs more frequently to stop clothes becoming wet, but I think lighter weight flannel backed bibs are particularly great in the summer when I wonder whether man made fibres might be a little warm around the neck. Our flannel choices are here

Image Courtesy of “My Little Patch”

Bamboo velour – again this is an absorbent fabric rather than a barrier fabric but bamboo velour is a lovely choice for the back of a bib. It’s not too thick and being a natural fibre it won’t get too hot for your little one either. It has a short pile and is nice and tactile and fluffy.

Bamboo towelling – an absorbent fabric, not a barrier fabric again and I’d say this is for a super dribbler! It’s much thicker and more absorbent than the bamboo velour as it has terry loops on both sides of the fabric so there’s much more surface area to soak up moisture. Your bib will be thicker if backed with bamboo towelling but it will be incredibly high performance. Even though this is not a barrier fabric you shouldn’t need to change the bib so frequently as there’s so much more surface area to absorb moisture before it will go through to clothes. Again this is a natural fibre, our selection is here.

Bamboo Jersey – this absorbent fabric would be a nice pairing if you are using cotton interlock or jersey on the top so the fabric types match (this is by no means essential, it’s just another option). Again, a natural fibre so a great choice for the summer months to keep dribbly necks cool.

Phew! That’s quite a few fabrics to digest there! As I said at the start, there are so many possibilities and options, more than I have listed above but hopefully that’s a good starting point if you are wanting to make your own bibs.

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