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How To Use Bondaweb

How To Use Bondaweb

by | Jun 9, 2021 | Haberdashery, Haberdashery Guides, My Makes, Product Guides, Tutorials

Imagine Bondaweb as the superhero of fabric glue, not your average, garden-variety adhesive. This bad boy is like double-sided sticky tape’s cooler, tougher cousin, ready to weld your fabrics together with the finesse of a seasoned blacksmith.

Let’s talk perks of Bondaweb, shall we?

  • This wonder adhesive plays it cool, literally. It won’t get clingy until you bring the heat.
  • Toss it in the wash at up to 60 degrees or give it a spa day with a dry clean. Bondaweb can handle it.
  • Dreaming of flawless appliqué? Bondaweb’s got your back. But hey, if appliqué’s not your jam, we’ve got a Pinwheel project that might just tickle your fancy.
  • Snip and clip those appliqué designs with the precision of a ninja, all thanks to Bondaweb’s stabilizing mojo.
  • That backing paper? It’s not just for show. Sketch your heart out, trace like a pro, and plot your world domination in pencil.

Words of Wisdom Before You Dive In:

  • Do a test run on some fabric scraps. Trust us, it’s better than a “whoops” moment on the real deal.

  • Pay attention, folks. Misuse Bondaweb and you’ll have a sticky mess with your iron and ironing board.

  • Your fabric needs to take the heat. If it can’t handle iron setting 3, it’s not the stage for Bondaweb’s talents.

Gather Your Arsenal:

  • Bondaweb

  • Cotton fabric

  • Thread

  • Pencil

Step-by-Step Instructions

  1. For appliqué: Trace or draw around your design onto the smooth side of the Bondaweb using a pencil.

Important Note: Trace as a mirror image or the finished design will end up the wrong way round.

2. For appliqué: Rough cut around each shape, leaving a small border.

3. Spread a smooth-surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over an ironing board.

4. Lay the fabric wrong side up on the ironing board.

5. Place the Bondaweb on top of the fabric rough side down. For appliqué: align the object with the grain.

6. Lay a smooth-surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over the top and press for roughly 5 seconds, heat setting 2, no steam.

Then wait at least 30 minutes for the Bondaweb to cool and the glue to set.

7. Cut out the shape/ fabric accurately, cutting small details is easier with fine scissors or a small rotary cutter and cutting mat.

8. Peel off the backing paper and position the shape/ fabric onto the mount/ backing fabric.

9. Place right side up on a covered ironing board. Lay a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over the top.

10. Dampen the cover fabric using the iron’s spray setting and press for roughly 10 seconds, heat setting 3.

Allow at least 30 minutes for the Bondaweb to cool and the glue to set.

11. For Appliqué: Sew around the edge of the shape and around any cut out elements (for example the centre of letters), 2mm from the edge.

(Hand sewn blanket stitch or machine zig zag stitch overlapping the edge of the letter and the surrounding fabric can also be used (length 0.5 to 1, width 3 to 4 depending on the finish required).

Trouble Shooting Tips For Bondaweb

If you find things aren’t going as smoothly as you’d hoped with Bondaweb here are some trouble shooting tips that might help:

  1. The Sticky Situation: If Bondaweb isn’t adhering properly, it’s probably playing hard to get. Solution: Check your iron’s heat setting. Bondaweb likes it hot, but not too hot. Ensure it’s on the correct setting (usually medium or as the Bondaweb instructions specify). Give it a little more time under the iron, but don’t get too steamy; moisture is not our friend here.
  2. Paper Won’t Peel Off: So, the backing paper decided it’s too attached to leave? Solution: Let it cool down more. If it’s still being clingy, gently score the edge with a pin to get the peeling started. Sometimes, all it needs is a little nudge.
  3. Bubbles and Wrinkles: Ended up with a Bondaweb masterpiece that looks more like a prune? Solution: This is usually a sign of too much heat or too much enthusiasm with the iron. Next time, use a gentle touch and ensure even heat. To fix, gently reheat the area and smooth out the wrinkles with the back of a spoon or re-iron with a protective cloth.
  4. It Stuck to the Iron/Ironing Board: Oops, went a bit rogue and missed the protective layer? Solution: Unplug the iron and let it cool. For the iron, use a dedicated iron cleaner or a soft cloth with vinegar (once it’s cool, of course). For the ironing board, gently scrape off what you can and cover the area with a cloth when ironing in the future.
  5. Fabric Discoloration: Your fabric lost its glow-up after Bondawebbing? Solution: This can happen with too much heat or incompatible fabric. Always test on a scrap first. If disaster strikes, consider covering the spot with an appliqué or decorative element. Remember, it’s not a mistake; it’s a creative opportunity.
  6. The Fabric Won’t Stick Together: If your fabrics are social distancing despite the Bondaweb, Solution: Check if you’ve applied it to the correct side and that you’ve used enough heat. Some fabrics are more stubborn than a cat in a bath. If it’s still not sticking, double-check that your Bondaweb isn’t past its prime. Yes, even adhesives have a shelf life.
  7. Changed Your Mind? If you’ve bonded something and then decided it’s all wrong, Solution: Bondaweb is pretty much a ’til death do us part’ situation once it’s set. However, you can sometimes gently reheat and carefully separate the fabrics. Be warned, it’s a delicate operation and might not always work. Consider this a lesson in commitment.

Remember, crafting is about the journey, not just crossing the finish line. Every misstep is a step towards mastering your craft! Embrace the chaos, learn from the Bondaweb battles, and keep on creating…

Did this guide help you? If it did I’d appreciate it if you’d leave a comment or a ❤️ on this post to help other people find my work! And if you’d like to hear more from me I’d love it if you would subscribe below… thanks so much!

What is Vlieseline Decovil Interlining?

What is Vlieseline Decovil Interlining?

by | May 14, 2021 | Fabric Guides, Haberdashery Guides, My Makes, Product Guides, Tutorials

Have you heard of Vlieseline Decovil? Wondering what this interlining can be used for? Our product guide will explain what Decovil Interlining is, how to apply it, and what projects it’s best suited for.

Vlieseline have a HUGE range of interlinings & interfacings that can add structure to your projects (you can explore the full range of Vlieseline products in our online haberdashery here) .

Say hello to Vlieseline Decovil!

Decovil is part of the Vlieseline Creative Range and it’s an interlining which adds amazing structure & strength to projects, whilst keeping your project light, pliable & crisp.

It feels like leather to the touch, but it has the added bonus that it’s easier to sew than leather – happy days!

Decovil Interlining

One side of Decovil is shiny and the other side is matt. The shiny side is adhesive and can be adhered onto fabric using an iron & a damp cloth – this is super handy so you don’t have to sew in the Decovil to your fabric.

Decovil is available in 2 weight options

Decovil I is the “original” Decovil interfacing- it’s thicker and heavier. Great for things like bag bottoms, storage boxes, zipper pouches etc…

Decovil Light, as the name suggests, is a lighter weight & thinner version of the original Decovil. It’s also softer.

Which to choose? Depending on your project and desired outcome but if, for example, you were making a bag you might choose to use Decovil I for the main body of your bag but for the bag handles choose Decovil I Light because you have a lot of layers to sew through.

Check out this little video which will hopefully give you an idea about how Decovil handles and moves

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The Benefits of Decovil Interlining

We’re a little bit in love with Decovil here at Plush Addict! Here’s some reasons why

 

  • It’s resistant to tearing and bending
  • Decovil gives structure
  • Gives a smooth, sleek finish
  • It’s Easy to shape
  • Decovil doesn’t crease easily – and if it does, it’s easy to restore
  • Helps reduce fraying
  • Adds durability to your project
  • Decovil can be pierced
  • It sews easily
  • Has a fusible coating on one side
  • It’s washable at 30 degrees

Check out our The Ultimate Vlieseline At-A-Glance Guide for more info on Vliseline’s Interfacings

When To Use Decovil

Decovil is really versatile but to give you an idea, you can use it in projects such as  

  • Placemats
  • Bags
  • Belts
  • Book & Notebook Covers
  • Zipper Pouches
  • Hats
  • Interior decorations
  • Small baskets

Decovil also makes a great alternative to wadding if you’re making placemats and gives a smooth and sleek look to the finished item. Check out our video:

Check out the suggestions on the Vlieseline site below for some free projects using Decovil

How to apply Decovil

 

It’s a cinch! Applying Decovil will be familiar – it’s very similar to applying other types of interlining and interfacing: 

 

  1. Spread a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over an ironing board
  2. Place your outer fabric  right side down
  3. Position the Decovil shiny side down so it is on top of the wrong side of your fabric
  4. Cover with a damp cloth and press for roughly 6 seconds
  5. Allow the adhesive to cool and cure for a minimum of 30 minutes to allow the adhesive to stick properly

Grab a cheeky 10% discount on your next Decovil purchase with DECOVIL10. One time use per customer.

Projects Ideas Using Decovil

Check out our Free notebook project which uses Decovil here

The Vlieseline Blog has some fab & FREE tutorials using the Decovil range.

Have a nosy at:

On The Go Multi Bag free project using Decovil from Vlieseline

Slippers free project using Decovil from Vlieseline

A Doll’s House free project using Decovil from Vlieseline

Clam Shell Wedding Favours free project using Decovil from Vlieseline

Other Useful Info About Vlieseline Decovil

If you’re not planning on laundering your project,  Decovil can be painted! Use watered down acrylic paint and be sure to paint on the matt side

Decovil can also be painted using fabric dye on the adhesive (shiny) side. Watch out here though –  the nature of the fibres may well cause dye to spread from the point where it is applied. Make sure you test before hand… 

Want to try Decovil for the first time?

Grab a cheeky 10% discount on your next Decovil purchase with DECOVIL10. One time use per customer.

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A Beginners Guide to KAM Snaps

A Beginners Guide to KAM Snaps

by | May 8, 2021 | Haberdashery Guides, Project Ideas, Tutorials

Looking for a quick and easy fastening? We have put together this super handy beginners guide to all things KAM snaps!

What are KAM Snaps?

 

KAM snaps are high quality plastic fasteners, the perfect alternative to sew on buttons and metal snaps. They are made from polyacetal resin which is extremely strong and Oekotex certified, which means they’re safe for children’s clothing. They come in different sizes. In addition, there are lots of different colours to match all kinds of fabrics and projects.

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Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

What do we need to apply KAM snaps?

 

KAM Snaps do not require any sewing and are applied with a snap setting tool. The most popular are the KAM pliers, which come with different die sets to suit all KAM snap sizes, an adjusting screwdriver, a rod for different fitting scenarios and a plastic-handled awl.

The pliers are great for light use. However if you think you’ll get hooked and will be fitting lots of plastic snaps, we’d recommend the KAM press.

What is a KAM press?

 

A KAM press is a professional snap press, which is compatible with all KAM snap shapes and sizes. It is a small but mighty desktop press and the die sets for the different size KAM snaps can be swapped and changed without any tools. Moreover, if you’re looking to attach lots of KAM snaps with a snug professional finish, this is the one to go for.

How to use KAM snap pliers

 

Installing KAM snaps is easy and super quick. You will need 2 KAM snap caps, 1 stud (male) and 2 sockets (female).

Step 1: Pierce your fabric with an awl (Don’t worry, you get one of these included with your plier kit!)

Step 2: Place the point of one of the caps through the hole and place the male stud on top.

Step 3: Place in the KAM pliers making sure the cap is flush in the black sunken dish and squeeze the pliers well.

Step 4: Pierce through the other side of the fabric with the awl.

Step 5: Repeat steps 2 and 3 with the female part.

Woohoo! You have an attached KAM snap!

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Can you remove KAM snaps?

 

Yes you can! Over on the website we sell KAM snap removal pliers which are designed to cleanly remove KAM snaps from your projects. This is great if you want to reuse the KAM snaps on a project a little one has grown out of or maybe you’re upcycling!

How to remove KAM snaps

 

Removing KAM snaps is really quick and easy. Furthermore, with the removal pliers you get the die sets to remove both the female and male sides of the snap.

Step 1: Drop into the pliers the female or male die set, depending on which part of the KAM snap you’re removing.

Step 2: Tighten it up with the screwdriver provided in the pliers kit.

Step 3: Slot the installed KAM snap into the pliers so it is sitting flush in the die set.

Step 4: Squeeze the pliers until you hear a click, then the KAM snap should fall away from the project.

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What kinds of projects can I use KAM snaps on?

 

We have tons of inspiration, tutorials and guides using KAM snaps! Here are some of them:

We hope you found this guide helpful! Let me know in the comments if you have any questions

How To Use Odicoat Fabric Coating Gel

How To Use Odicoat Fabric Coating Gel

by | Apr 29, 2021 | Haberdashery, Haberdashery Guides, Product Guides, Tutorials

You will learn how to use Odicoat fabric coating gel in this tutorial. In addition, we will be guiding you on its various benefits and uses.

Ever found the perfect fabric with the wrong composition for your project? If the missing element was waterproofing then we have discovered a brilliant solution; Odicoat. This clever gel gives fabrics a waterproof coating that is machine washable.

This isn’t the only use for this clever product, Odicoat also works as a fabric glue; Fabric can be applied to objects for decorative purposes.

A product guide for beginners

There are a few ways to waterproof fabrics, depending on the finish you are looking for.

Below you’ll find both a video tutorial on how to use Odicoat fabric coating gel as well as a more detailed photo tutorial so you can learn all about Odicoat! We hope you this post helpful.. Do let us know in the comments.

You’ll also find a cheeky discount code for your next Odicoat purchase at the end of the tutorial…

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Why use Odicoat?

Benefits of Odicoat

  •  Odicoat leaves fabric with a lightly rubberised feel; think of the finish (3 coats) as a more pliable oilcloth
  • Once application is complete the fabric is machine washable up to 30 degrees
  • Coated fabric is easier to cut, more durable and less prone to fraying
  • The finished fabric can be sewn, as you would PUL or oilcloth fabrics. Check out our full Waterproof Fabric Guide for more info
  • Waterproof fabrics offer greater stain resistance
  • Odicoat is water based, BPA free and acid free
  • Treated fabrics have a little more structure

Uses for Odicoat

  • Aprons
  • Tablecloths
  • Placemats
  • Wash bags
  • Make up bags
  • Embellishing decorative items
  • Outdoor cushions

Additional information

  •  A single coat will give a matt finish, 2 or 3 coats will give a gloss finish:

1 coat – the fabric is protected, water repellent, with a matt finish

2 coats – the fabric is coated, with a gloss finish

3 coats – the fabric is waterproofed, with a high gloss finish

  • Fabrics coated with Odicoat should only be washed at 30o
  • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturers care advice before applying Odicoat
  • Use clips or pin within the seam allowance – pin holes will remain visible
  • Treated fabrics will have less drape
  • We recommend testing the suitability of Odicoat on spare pieces of the project fabric/ hidden area of an object before proceeding
  • Not suitable for thick velvet, suede or embossed fabrics
  • Foods must not make direct contact with Odicoat treated items
  • Odicoat is made in France by Odif

Disclaimer

  • Odicoat should only be used for it’s intended purpose
  • Follow the usage instructions
  • Always wash hands after use
  • Not for consumption
  • Keep out of the reach of children
  • Odif cannot be responsible for dangerous storage conditions or misuse

How to apply Odicoat

You will need:

Here we used:

1. Before cutting fabrics to size, in case of shrinkage, apply the Odicoat to the right side of the fabric: Place your fabric right side up on a protected surface (greaseproof or plastic sheeting are ideal)

2. Using the card provided spread a thin layer of Odicoat onto the fabric; start from one corner and work outwards. Go back over the fabric with the card spreading out any thick patches/ streaks. Avoid moving the fabric until it is dry to prevent Odicoat getting onto the wrong side

3. Wait until the Odicoat is touch dry (20 to 30 minutes), cover with greaseproof and dry iron, heat setting 1/satin

4. Apply a second coat, as per steps 2. And 3. A third coat can be applied if required

5. Allow 24 hours for the Odicoat to cure fully then carefully peel the fabric off

How to use Odicoat as a glue

Odicoat can be used to stick fabric to wood, cardboard, metal, glass, ceramic, pottery, Styrofoam and stone. Once applied the Odicoat will give a water-resistant, satin finish:

1. Apply Odicoat to the back of the fabric being adhered with a flat brush

2. Position the fabric on the chosen surface

3. Apply another coat of Odicoat over the fabric

4. Wait 1 hour

5. Apply a second coat (optional)

6. Wait 24 hours

 

Check out our video below!

And you’re finished, well done!

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We hope you found this tutorial useful!

A Zipper Guide: Everything You Need To Know About Zip Types

A Zipper Guide: Everything You Need To Know About Zip Types

by | Apr 26, 2021 | Haberdashery Guides, Product Guides, Tutorials, Zips

Welcome to this zippy edition of my sewing Substack I get SO many questions about zips… Separating zips… Close-ended zips… invisible zips… continuous zips… I hear ya! What zip do you need where and what exactly do those numbers mean?! This zipper guide has everything you need to know about zip types.

As simple as they might seem, zippers are the backbone of functionality and style in many sewing creations. But not all zippers are created equal, and choosing the right one can be the difference between a project that’s just good and one that’s great.

By the end of this installment, you’ll be equipped with the knowledge to not just choose the right zipper, but to do so with confidence and creativity.

And if reading isn’t your thing… You can watch a video I did talking you through all the different zip types here, but please leave me a comment or a ❤️ below if you’ve found this post helpful, I’d really appreciate it!

The Anatomy Of A Zip

First, let’s talk about the anatomy of a zip… You might find some of these terms in a tutorial and it’s useful to be aware of the parts, and the functions they serve in your zip

Top Stop: A small bar at the top that stops the slider from coming off of the top of zipper tracks.

Bottom Stop: A small bar at the bottom that stops the slider from coming off of the bottom of the zipper tracks.

Slider Body: The most common part of the zip, it separates and joins the tracks as you slide the pull tab up and down.

Pull Tab: The second part of the slider body, used to pull the zipper up and down.

Zipper Tape: This is the fabric part that gets sewn on to your project. The zipper teeth are attached to the zipper tape

Retainer Box: Secures it together and stops the slider from coming off of the bottom – this only applies to separating zips.

Insertion Pin: Holds the opposite side of the zipper in the retainer box – this only applies to separating zips.

Different Types Of Zips

Now you know your top stop from your slider let’s talk about the two basic zips types: Closed-ended zips & open ended zips…

On the left we see a closed-ended zipper – the zip is permanently closed on one end

On the right we see an open-ended or separating zipper. The zip completely separates in two. These zips are often found in jackets, coats and other garments.

(Left: close ended zip – Right: open ended zip)

What is a closed-ended zip?

Closed-ended zips are a great jumping off point into the world of sewing zips – and they’re one of the easiest to get the hang of.

It has a bottom stop which is a metal bar that goes across both sides of the bottom of the zipper and holds it together in one piece.

These kinds of zips are really versatile as they come in a wide range of both colours and sizes

They can be used in making pouches, bags, dressmaking, cushions and lots more.

What is a separating or open-ended zip?

Does pretty much what it says on the tin, this zipper separates at the bottom – great for fastenings that require opening/closing.

Separating zippers are usually found in jackets and coats.

You can cheat and use these zips in place of a closed ended zip if you like the style… you simply just treat them as you would a closed ended zip and bury the separating end in a seam or cover with a zip tab!

What type of zip do I need?

The 4 most common types are nylon coil zip, plastic moulded zip, metal zip and invisible zip.

What type of zip do I need?

A nylon coil zip is one whose teeth are made from nylon, rather than hard plastic or metal. Made how it’s named, nylon monofilament is coiled and then stitched or woven into the zipper tape.

Nylon teeth zips are great to use as you can usually sew right over the teeth without your needle breaking!

(Nylon coil zip)

Nylon zippers are also really flexible compared to other zip types. They have strong horizontal strength, this is ideal because they’re easily fixed if broken.

These are the zips of choice for luggage and outdoor products due to their strength, you’ll likely find them on suitcases, backpacks, tents or jackets! Thanks to this bad boy you can overpack your suitcase and STILL close it shut without ripping the whole thing apart!

Nylon zippers are also very forgiving if you sew over them – it’s unlikely your needle will break if it’s a size 80 or stronger.

What does an invisible zip look like?

As the name might imply – these are (almost!) invisible! These zips are also known as concealed zips.

Usually with very fine teeth, they’re sewn into the seam in garments to give a clean finish – with only the pull tab showing (if installed correctly!).

You ideally need an invisible zipper foot to insert this zip type more easily and accurately.

Where to use a moulded plastic/chunky zip?

These zippers are usually constructed from acetal polymer plastic and have symmetrical teeth that interlock together. They also have more substantial & defined zip teeth than other zips – hence the name chunky! These are most commonly seen on clothes like jackets and also handbags.

Sadly, if one of the teeth breaks over time it’s very difficult to fix.

However the shape of the teeth makes them slightly stiffer/stronger than nylon coil ones – it’s a balance!

Plastic moulded or chunky zip

What are metal teeth zips?

Probably the most sturdy and durable of the bunch, they have teeth made out of metal that are clamped onto the zipper tape, however they can be relatively heavy and are a lot more difficult to shorten.

Often seen on denim jeans due to their resistance to withstand multiple washes, and due to the rough nature of how people wear/treat their jeans. This style is also used for heavy-duty items such as duffle bags, leather products and suitcases.

There is a huge trend towards adding metal teeth zippers to pouches – they add a feeling of luxury.

(Metal teeth zip)

What are continuous zips?

These zips don’t have a beginning or end, you can cut them to the length you need as there’s no pull tab or bottom stop and you can purchase the zipper tape by the metre.

Zip pulls are purchased and added separately giving you more control over the look and design of your project.

These are great if you need a very long zip. Perfect to reduce waste and for those niche projects, you can also customise it to your needs and add zip pulls to either side!

(Continuous zips)

What does a #3 or #5 Zip look like?

Ever wondered what a size 5 zip actually is?! For the uninitiated, it might seem confusing but the reality is it’s very simple…

Zip sizes are expressed in numbers (#) and the width of the zip teeth is measured in millimeters. The most common are size #3 and size #5.

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In most cases the overall size is an approximation of the zipper teeth width in millimeters when the zip is closed.

When sewing your makes, if your project doesn’t include a recommendation for the size of the zipper, you can use the table below:

ZIPPER SIZE CHART

Don’t forget when it comes to measuring the length of your zip, you should start measuring from the top stop and finish measuring when you reach bottom stop, this will give you the most accurate measurement of your zip.

How heavy are zips?

Weight is an important factor to consider as you want to match a suitable weight to the project you’re working on. 

Usually metal zippers will weigh a lot more than moulded plastic ones.

So for example if you’re sewing some children’s clothes with a zip on the front, metal may not be suitable as it would be too heavy and weigh the whole garment down.

Zipper Tools

Grab the tools below to help you with your zip sewing!

What does a zipper foot look like?

A recommended prerequisite before you start sewing zips is getting yourself a zipper foot. Although some seam-stars agree it’s not a necessity – it does make life a lot easier and you are more likely to get a nice finish.

You can get 2 different zipper foots, an invisible zipper foot and a regular zipper foot.

The difference between both is self-explanatory, the invisible zipper foot is to be used when sewing invisible zips, and the regular zipper foot is to be used with all other types.

(Two different types of regular feet)

(Invisible zipper foot)

Pliers

Some zippers such as nylon coil and chunky zips can be cut with scissors to shorten, however metal ones need a little more work to shorten & pliers are the perfect tool for this.

All you need to do is snip & pull off some of the metal teeth with pliers.

Clear Tape

An easy tool most of us have in our homes, the same sellotape we use with wrapping paper! I like Scotch Magic Tape as it doesn’t leave a residue on your project.

Use this to stick down the zip whilst sewing for ease to keep it from slipping.

Wonder Tape

Ideal for holding together seams, zips or hems when stitching knit fabric, it’ll also keep the fabric from stretching as you sew.

Even better… this tape disappears after the first wash!

If you prefer watching rather than reading, check out our video version of this guide over on our Youtube

Did this guide help you? If it did I’d appreciate it if you’d leave a comment or a ❤️ on this post to help other people find my work! And if you’d like to hear more from me I’d love it if you would subscribe below… thanks so much!

A Guide To Haberdashery – A History and Definition

A Guide To Haberdashery – A History and Definition

by | Mar 31, 2021 | Haberdashery, Haberdashery Guides

3.5 minute read

Haberdashery – it’s a great word, isn’t it? Ever wondered what it is? Or where such a wonderful word comes from?

You’re not the only one!

Read on to find out all things haberdashery. We’ll be going into detail and explaining all you need to know to become a seasoned haberdasher. You’ll feel confident going out and exploring the world of sewing accessories!

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

History of the word Haberdashery

Haberdashery is pronounced “ha-buh-da-shu-ree” and has a rich history. It’s such a great word! But where did it come into our language?

One of the first sightings of the word is seen in English poet Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales. Chaucer describes peddlers who sold buttons, needles & other sewing items. This dates the word back to at least the 14th century!

Haberdashery derives from “hapertas” that’s thought to have meant “small ware”, although others say it was used to describe a type of fabric.

The word has been around for centuries, nonetheless the true origins of it are still unknown today.

Often the word “haberdashery” is shortened to “habby” so if you hear that being banded around, you know what this abbreviation means!

UK & US Haberdashery Differences

Interestingly the word haberdashery has a different meaning with our friends across the pond in the US, instead, the word “notions” is used to describe haberdashery supplies!

Over in the US the word Haberdashery is instead a term used to describe a speciality accessory store for men selling hats, gloves & scarves.

But they also sell what we now know as haberdashery supplies in the UK – buttons, needles, threads and more!

As time passed US haberdasheries evolved to also tailor to women, but still focused on hats and accessories.

However here in the UK they became the go-to place for all sorts of sewing bits and bobs, more of a craft and sewing shop.

The world of sewing and sewing accessories has experienced a massive boost in interest recently partly due to the pandemic, lots of people turned to their hobbies to pass time and even more people discovered new hobbies!

The Great British Sewing Bee has also massively contributed to the expansion of sewing and haberdashery in Britain, we all love a good competition!

What supplies do you find in a haberdashery?

ALL the sewing things! In short it’s an all encompassing word describing is the small bits & bobs used in sewing projects. You could call them a seam-star’s sewing accessories.

Some common items are:

This list isn’t exhaustive – there’s literally hundreds of variations for each of these items –  it’s pretty broad.

More often than not you can’t complete a sewing project without using some type of haberdashery! And over time your stash will increase (along with your need for habby storage & organisation 🤣)

Where can you buy haberdashery supplies?

Habby items are usually sold by fabric & sewing shops. A Google search for “haberdashery near me” will bring up all your local merchants, it’s a great way to support local small businesses!

And if there’s not one near to you then we’re here to help! Our online sewing superstore has a HUGE range of haberdashery items & we ship sewing supplies not only throughout the UK, but worldwide too.

We know that sometimes buying sewing supplies online can be daunting. What if the colours don’t match?! Colours CAN be off when buying from a screen – we totally get this… There’s nothing more annoying than ordering a thread to match your fabric from screen, only to have it arrive and it’s totally off.
We have a service available as standard to eliminate any matchy matchy stress! We offer a free colour match service. Just order what you *think* matches then leave us a comment in the notes field at checkout asking us to check that your colours match. If they don’t – we’ll swap them for you – simples!

And if when your new haberdashery items arrive they’re not right, we also offer Free UK Returns! 

About Us

Plush Addict is a local, family run business started by myself and Mr.Plush (Hubbydasherer) over 9 years ago. We’ve grown from a bedroom business selling cloth nappy supplies to having one of the best stocked haberdasheries in the country!

We stock a huge range of both fabric & haberdashery and we strive to be a one stop shop for your sewing projects.

We hope you found this insightful and learnt a little more about the history of haberdashery.

If you stumbled here looking for some sewing bits, head on over to our website to shop all things haberdashery and fabric!

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials!