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Free Pattern For A Hot Water Bottle Cover

Free Pattern For A Hot Water Bottle Cover

by | Feb 9, 2022 | Project Ideas, Quilt Fabric, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

A hot water bottle is a must-have for chilly nights, and a handmade cover adds a personal touch. This tutorial will guide you step-by-step to create a snug, stylish hot water bottle cover using plush and quilting cotton fabrics. Perfect for gifting or a cosy addition to your home,this project is beginner-friendly, fun to customise and great for all skill levels.

Plush fabric is gorgeously soft, tactile, and luxurious. If you’re new to this type of fabric – check out our guide here for the full low down.

This hot water bottle cover comes together pretty quickly. You can easily sew it in an afternoon and it would make a great handmade gift.

We have provided a free printed pattern template up can download below sized to fit a standard 2 litre hot water bottle measuring 33cm (h) 20 cm (w) approx.

We used this hot water bottle to create our pattern. If you’re making several of these for gifts then the template will also fit this pack of 3 hot water bottles

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Materials You Will Need To Make This Hot Water Bottle Cover

MaterialAmountNotes
Exterior Fabric50cm (20 inches)plush for softness or quilting cotton  for style.
Lining Fabric30cm (12 inches)We used calico
wadding30cm (12 inches)If you’re unsure which wadding to use then check out this post for my thoughts

25mm bias binding

1m (40 inches)DIY from cotton or store-bought
 ThreadPolyester for durability
A4 Download The Hot Water Bottle Pattern Here
US Letter Download The Hot Water Bottle Pattern Here
Learn About The Best Wadding For Hot Water Bottle Covers

Exterior Fabric Rectangle Sizes

Cut the following pieces from your chosen exterior fabric:

  • Front Panel: 41cm (height) x 29cm (width)
  • Back Top Panel: 22cm (height) x 29cm (width)
  • Back Bottom Panel: 26cm (height) x 29cm (width)

Sewing equipment you will need

    • Important Notes to Keep in Mind

      • Seam Allowance: Use a 1cm seam allowance for all steps unless mentioned otherwise.
      • Sewing Tips: When using your sewing machine, always straight stitch with a 2.5mm stitch length. Don’t forget to backstitch at the start and end of each seam to secure it.
      • Fabric Prep: Make sure to prepare your fabrics according to the manufacturer’s care instructions (e.g., washing or pressing).
      • Finishing Seams: We used an overlocker (serger) to prevent fraying, but no worries if you don’t have one! Check out our guide for alternative seam finishing methods.
      • Key Terms:
        • WST: Wrong Sides Together.
        • RST: Right Sides Together.
      • Before You Begin: Take a few minutes to read through the instructions from start to finish – it’ll make the sewing process much smoother!
      • Safety First: Always follow your hot water bottle’s usage and care instructions. And remember, never overfill it!

    How To Sew A Hot Water Bottle Cover

    1. Print and assemble your pattern

    Print out the PDF pattern on A4 paper at 100% and check the 1″ square measures 1 inch

    You will need to print two copies of pattern piece A, two copies of pattern piece B & one copy of pattern piece C

    Stick one copy of pattern pieces A & B together matching the sides. This makes the front pattern piece of the hot water bottle cover

    Stick one copy of pattern pieces B & C together. This makes the back top pattern of the hot water bottle cover

    The remaining pattern piece A makes the back top pattern piece of the cosy. You pattern should look like this

    #image_title

    2. Cut The Fabrics

    For the front panels

      • 41 x 29cm (h x w) of chosen outer fabric (if you are piecing fabrics see note below)

    If you are using a variety of prints on your front panel: Cut and lay out your fabric pieces as you desire. Our quilting cotton section measured approx. 29cm wide x  29cm high . We then added a strip of Plush fabric to the top which measured approx 29cm wide x 15cm high

    If you are using plush fabric pay attention to the fabric nap. Make sure you have enough pieced fabric to cover the front printed pattern piece with some overhang.

      For the back panels

      From your exterior fabric cut 2 rectangles

          • Back Top Panel: 22 x 29cm (h x w)
          • Back Bottom Panel: 26 x 29cm (h x w)

        Cut the lining & wadding

        Cut the lining fabric and wadding pieces a little larger than the outer fabric panel pieces to assist with quilting.

        For each panel piece layer your fabrics to make a “quilt sandwich”. Lining fabric at the bottom, then layer the wadding, then the exterior fabric.

        3. Quilt your panel pieces

        On the front panel & both back panel pieces, quilt the fabrics as desired. I chose a simple straight lines approx 1″ apart but quilt to suit you.

        Now place the printed pattern  pieces on to the corresponding quilted panels.

        Pin or weight the pattern down on the fabrics and cut around the printed pattern outline. I find this easiest using a small 28mm rotary cutter.

        Your work will now look something like this

        4. Make & Attach the bias binding

        Make your binding strips for the back panel pieces by cutting a 25mm x WOF (Width Of Fabric) strip of fabric. Fold in half matching the long edges and press along the length.

        Attach and pin/ clip the binding to back pieces lining side up matching the fabric raw edges with the edge of the back pieces as shown

        Stitch the binding in place using a 1/4″ seam.

        Press the seam away from the lining, flip the folded edge of the binding to the right side of the cover. Clip and top stitch in place very close to the binding edge.

        Do this for both back panels.

        Now you’re ready to sew it together!

        Lay the quilted panel pieces on top of each other in this order

            • Front panel right side up
            • Back top panel right side down
            • Back bottom panel right side down

          Secure with clips and stitch all the way around the edge using a 1cm seam allowance.

          Finish the seams with your preferred method. Check out our post here for a few ideas.

          If you prefer (and your overlocker is happy with all the layers) you can overlock around the edges – but watch out for those curves!

          And you’re done!

          Now fill her up with hot water & get cosy toes next time it’s a bit chilly!

          Hot Water Bottle Cover Sewing Tutorial

          Hot Water Bottle Cover Sewing Tutorial

          Make A Quick and Easy Valentine’s Decoration

          Make A Quick and Easy Valentine’s Decoration

          by | Jan 31, 2022 | Felt, Tutorials

          Do you want to make a quick and easy Valentine’s decoration?

          You’re in luck! This is a super simple project you can whip up in a flash and is perfect for spreading the love this Valentine’s Day & we think the heart garland will look great in your home.

          Read on for step-by-step instructions on how to make this quick and easy Valentine’s Day felt garland. You only need handful of a few basic supplies!

          Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

          Love is in the air! And if you’re running out of time to make your home feel more aligned to love then this super simple Valentine’s day garland might be just the ticket

          For This Quick and Easy Valentine’s Decoration You Will Need:

          2 x 30cm squares of felt (we used white and red)

          2m of 50mm Giant pom poms (we used Raspberry)

          4 m Wool

          Sewing thread

          30cm ribbon

          A Ruler

          Pencil

          Sewing needle

          Sewing machine (or hand sewing)

          Sewing pins or clips

          New to working with felt fabric? Check out our Felt Fabric Guide for info and 11 sewing tips!

          Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

          Making the felt hearts

          (complete each step on one felt square at a time)

          Step 1:

          On the felt square draw lines the length of the square every 2.5cm. This will create 12 drawn stripes.

          Step 2:

          With the stripes running from side to side, fold the square in half as though closing a book matching the stripes. Pin or clip together the long edge.

          Step 3:

          Sew along the folded edge, 5mm from the edge.

          Step 4:

          Remove the clips from the side not sewn & open the felt like a book. Folding the felt back on itself, bring the two open edges together. The sewn seam should be on the inside – this will make a heart shape. Do not squash!

          Step 5:

          Check the stripes line up again. Pin or clip the 2 layers together and sew.

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          Step 6:

          Holding the 2 layers of fabric firmly together cut along the drawn lines through both layers of felt. This will form 12 hearts per felt square.

          Threading the garland

          Step 1:

          Place the threaded needle through the centre of a pom pom and guide it along the wool. Stop 20cm before the end.

          Step 2:

          Thread the needle through the outer layer of a heart approx. 7.5cm from the bottom & central to the width of the heart.

          Step 3:

          Ease the heart along the wool, stopping at the pom pom. Spread out the felt layers and a heart shape will form. Spend a little time shaping the heart. Repeat steps 3 to 7 alternating red and white hearts until all the hearts and pom poms are used up.

          Step 4:

          Remove the needle from the end of the wool and the garland is ready to hang.

          Make a quick and easy Valentine's day decoration

          All done! This project is super easy and fun making it perfect to do with a partner, friend or even a little one!

          We hope you enjoyed this tutorial and it brings you some joy making this quick and easy Valentine’s Decoration!

          Don’t forget to share your finished makes with us – tag us @PlushAddict as we LOVE seeing your projects!

          Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials!

          What is Manilla Pattern Card?

          What is Manilla Pattern Card?

          by | Jan 25, 2022 | Haberdashery, Haberdashery Guides, My Makes, Product Guides, Tutorials

          Ever heard of manilla pattern card and wondered what it is, and how it’s used in the sewing industry?

          This special card is used extensively by industry professionals, pattern cutters, dressmakers & couture houses alike. It is specifically manufactured for making dressmaking pattern pieces and pattern cutting blocks more durable.

          But why leave this amazing product for the professionals to benefit from when the home sewist can find so many uses for it?!

          If you have a “Tried & Tested” dressmaking pattern you might want to consider investing in some Manila pattern card to preserve the life of your perfect pattern pieces, as well as making them easier for you to trace around.

          If you are pattern cutting at home or tracing standard blocks, using this card means they can your pattern pieces be used over and again as a starting point for all basic garments.

          Although we are focussing on dressmaking patterns here, this versatile card can be used for any of your sewing patterns… Think bag patterns, pouch patterns, bib patterns toy patterns… In fact, ANY pattern that you find yourself using time and time again would benefit from being traced on to this card.

          In this guide we’ll not only give you the low down about this Pro-Product, but we’ll also walk you through two ways you can trace off and preserve one of your beloved patterns on to this useful card.

          What is Manilla Pattern Making Card?

          Used in garment making and pattern cutting, this card is thick & weighty enough to lay flat when cutting patterns. No pins are needed and minimal pattern weights are required, so it saves time in the long run.

          Even though it’s durable, this card is also thin & lightweight enough to cut, fold, roll and store easily at home.

          It is made by gluing 2 sheets of manilla card together once manufactured. This gives the card a smooth, firm and hard wearing surface and a clean tracing edge on pattern pieces & blocks.

          What are the benefits of using pattern template card?

            • Tracing patterns on to manilla card will preserve the longevity of your sewing patterns that can get easily damaged through repeated use
            • Save time when tracing or cutting patterns as pins are not required
            • You get a sharp edge on your pattern piece to trace around making it easier with a rotary cutter or fabric pen

            How to preserve a dressmaking pattern

            Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

            You Will Need:

            New to dressmaking? Why not check out our Beginner’s Guide to Reading Dressmaking Patterns Post

            How to Transfer a Pattern On To Pattern Card

            Method 1: Use Pattern Weights

            This method is particularly useful for preserving basic core pattern blocks, that will be traced around many times

            1) Cut out your pattern piece on to pattern tracing paper, including any marks, dots and notches. Swedish Tracing Paper is ideal to use here

            2) Lay the pattern piece flat on top of the card, using pattern weights. It needs to be completely flat so you may want to press it before proceeding.

            3) Trace around all edges and markings of your pattern piece, using a long ruler or french curve to ensure you are creating accurate lines.

            5) Remove the pattern piece, and cut around your new card pattern. Transfer any markings, such as notches and dots, using an awl to create holes for dots or things like dart points, and snips or a pattern notcher for notches. 

            Have you seen our Swedish Tracing Paper Guide? It’s pattern paper you can sew! Check out this post for more info

            6) Your card pattern pieces can now be used with pattern weights and a rotary cutter to directly cut out your fabric.

            Or you can trace around them to quickly create markings for your basic block on paper, which can then be adapted to make a new pattern design.

            Use a hole punch to create a hole in the pattern piece, and you can store them on thread, string or a wire hook to hang them on a rail.

            Method 2: use Glue

             

            In this method you glue your pattern piece to the card and then cut round the edge. All of your pattern markings will already be visible for the original pattern piece

            1) Using a glue stick (ideally a fairly ‘dry’ glue that isn’t too wet and won’t cause your pattern to wrinkle) or a spray adhesive stick your paper pattern to the pattern card.

            You can either cut out and stick down the entire pattern sheet, or do it piece by piece. You will get a neater result sticking the pattern down as a full sheet. 

            2) Cut out the pattern pieces from your card and transfer any markings, such as notches and dots. Use an awl to create holes for dots or things like dart points, and snips or a pattern notcher for notches. 

            3) Your card pattern pieces can now be used with pattern weights and a rotary cutter to directly cut out your fabric.

            And you’re done!

            We hope your found this product guide and tutorial on how to preserve a pattern on manilla card helpful

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            What is Swedish Tracing Paper and How Do You Use It?

            What is Swedish Tracing Paper and How Do You Use It?

            by | Dec 29, 2021 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Haberdashery Guides, My Makes, Product Guides, Project Ideas, Tutorials

            Swedish Tracing Paper is a type of dressmaking pattern tracing paper that is fairly translucent, drapeable and best of all – it’s pattern paper that is sewable! This makes it an incredible choice for making muslins or toiles whilst dressmaking.

            In this guide we’re going to talk you through the product, as well as offer a tutorial on how to use this amazing dressmaking pattern paper & how using it can save you both time AND fabric!

            What is Swedish Tracing Paper?

             

            Unlike conventional pattern drafting paper that can tear or crumple easily, Swedish tracing paper can be used to

            • Trace dressmaking patterns
            • Alter patterns
            • Sew pattern pieces traced on to Swedish Tracing Paper together to make a muslin & get an idea of fit
            • Easily mark pattern alterations on to

            It’s super useful and will save you time and fabric! You could easily skip making a muslin or toile from Calico fabric and use Swedish Tracing Paper instead.

            Just a heads up! Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. That means we may earn a small commission - at no extra cost to you - if you make a purchase through them. It’s a little way you can support us and help keep all this awesome content free. Thanks for supporting us! Please read our full disclaimer here 

            What is Swedish Tracing Paper made from?

            Swedish tracing paper is made from eco-friendly abaca fibres, making it compostable & environmentally friendly. The tightly packed, jumbled fibres make it more tear-resistant than regular pattern paper yet it’s still translucent enough to see through for tracing .

            You can sew Swedish tracing paper in the same way you would sew regular ‘muslin’ fabrics using a universal needle and thread.

            You can baste your traced pattern pieces together with a long stitch on your sewing machine. Once sewn you can easily mark any fit alterations on your pattern pieces in pencil. After that you can unpick the seams to adjust and retrace the pattern pieces!

             

            Looking to expand your fabric knowledge?

            Check out our Fabric Guides for tips on working with all types of fabric

            Explore Fabric Guides

            How to use Swedish Tracing Paper to trace a pattern

            You Will Need:

            Make it even easier with…

            1. First, lay the pattern pieces you want to trace on a flat surface.

            You may wish to dry iron them first so they lay completely flat for the most accurate trace.

            Place your Swedish Tracing Paper on top.

            You do not need to use a light box or a window to trace through as Swedish Tracing Paper is translucent enough to see even fairly fine lines through.

            2. You can use pattern weights or pins to hold the tracing paper over the pattern pieces as it can have a tendency to curl away slightly.

            If you find your tracing paper gets a little crumpled or creased, iron it on a silk or cool setting and a pressing cloth. 

            3. To trace off a master copy of any pattern simply trace over your desired sizes, markings & labels on your pattern pieces.

            Swedish tracing paper is easy to mark with pencil, pen or even chalk, but pencil is easiest to remark and remove if you make a mistake.

            4. Next, cut around the edge of your pattern with paper scissors and mark with your awl all the markings (eg circle markings for bust points) & a pattern notcher for the notches, if you have one.

            5. Either use your traced pattern straight away, or sew together using a basting stitch.

            Once basted you can then try on your pattern for size!

            Mark any adjustments you need to make & alter the pattern piece as required.

            Retrace the pattern piece to try again.  

            6. You can use the pattern pieces you create from Swedish tracing paper as you would normal paper pattern pieces

            Then, simply pin or use pattern weights when cutting out, but they are much more durable in use. For those of us who find the perfect pattern we want to make a time & time again – no more pin marked and destroyed paper pattern pieces!

            Want More Sewing Know-How?

            Explore Our Haberdashery Guides

            Sewing and Handling Tips

             

            • Needle – Universal machine needles work well for running a simple tacking stitch
            • Thread – A polyester thread works best for creating muslins, as it does not snap easily and is smooth for easy removal.
            • Sewing – Use a long, basting stitch length.

            We hope you found this product guide helpful…. Do let us know what you thought in the comments – I’d love to hear from you!

            Sew Your Own Appliquéd Christmas Bunting Tutorial

            Sew Your Own Appliquéd Christmas Bunting Tutorial

            by | Dec 15, 2021 | My Makes, Project Ideas, Tutorials

            Deck the halls with boughs of holly, tra la la la!

            There’s still time to top up your bank of Christmas memories & sew some fun festive bunting for the family to enjoy year after year…

            This easy project is a brilliant little scrap buster. We’ve provided some cute (and FREE!) appliqué templates for you which can can request here

            We’ve gone to town with the applique shapes & you can choose from Rudolf, a Christmas tree, present, a stocking, some holly, a bell, a gingerbread man, a bauble, a star – will you use them all?!

            We’ve also suggested 2 finishes for your flags – pinked & stitched or turned & top stitched… choose whichever tickles your festive pickle!

            We have used calico for the bunting flags- it’s economical & a great neutral background to showcase any colour scheme to help your scraps sing!

            You Will Need:

            Make life easier with:

            A sewing project for : Beginners

            Approximate sewing time: Sew it in an afternoon!

            Important Notes:

            • ¼” (0.5mm) seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise directed.
            • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
            • When topstitching – use a 3-3.5mm length & stitch approx 3mm from the seam
            • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice
            • Read through the instructions fully before starting  

            Request the templates:

            [mailerlite_form form_id=5]

            Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

            Make it easier with:

            Pin For Later!

            Important Notes:

            • 1.5cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
            • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
            • When topstitching – use a 3-3.5mm length & stitch approx 3mm from the seam
            • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice
            • Read through the instructions fully before starting 

            Sew Christmas Bunting

            The template pieces we have put together can be downloaded above.

            If you have a laminator laminate your template pieces as it will make it easier to trace around them. Cut out your template pieces.

            1. Cut a 25cm strip of calico and mark your flags as shown in the photo. Cut along your marked lines to create your flags.

            Top tip: Use a pinking blade in your rotary cutter for an attractive rustic finish.

            2. Prepare your appliqué pieces by tracing round your appliqué shapes on the smooth side of the Bondaweb paper ensuring you leave a few millimetres around the outline when you cut them out.

            3. Iron your Bondaweb shape to the wrong side of your fabric and then cut along your drawn outline line.

            4. Score the paper of your Bondaweb with a pin and carefully tear off the paper revealing the adhesive

            Pin For Later!

            5. Iron your appliqué pieces onto your fabric flags taking care to place the layers of the appliqué in the correct order.

            6. Carefully stitch around the edge of your appliqué. Popular choices of stitch are blanket stitch (pictured) zig-zag stitch and running stitch but you could use others depending on the look you are after.

            7. Decide the look of your finished flags and choose the appropriate next step.

            8. Turned & topstitched: With right sides together stitch your flag with a 5mm seam allowance. Closely trim the point of your flag and turn the right way. Press and topstitch.

            Pinked & Stitched: With wrong sides together stitch your flag with a 5mm seam allowance.

            9. Iron your bias binding in half which will make stitching it easier.

            Place your flags at equal intervals along the bias binding (ours were approx 10cm apart) placing the flags within the fold of the bias binding and pin or use Wonder Clips (which make this part *much* easier) and sew.

            And you’re finished, well done!

            We hope you enjoyed this tutorial and have a wonderful Christmas!

            Pin For Later!

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