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What is Vlieseline Decovil Interlining?

What is Vlieseline Decovil Interlining?

Have you heard of Vlieseline Decovil? Wondering what this interlining can be used for? Our product guide will explain what Decovil Interlining is, how to apply it, and what projects it’s best suited for.

Vlieseline have a HUGE range of interlinings & interfacings that can add structure to your projects (you can explore the full range of Vlieseline products in our online haberdashery here) .

Say hello to Vlieseline Decovil!

Decovil is part of the Vlieseline Creative Range and it’s an interlining which adds amazing structure & strength to projects, whilst keeping your project light, pliable & crisp.

It feels like leather to the touch, but it has the added bonus that it’s easier to sew than leather – happy days!

Decovil Interlining

One side of Decovil is shiny and the other side is matt. The shiny side is adhesive and can be adhered onto fabric using an iron & a damp cloth – this is super handy so you don’t have to sew in the Decovil to your fabric.

Decovil is available in 2 weight options

Decovil I is the “original” Decovil interfacing- it’s thicker and heavier. Great for things like bag bottoms, storage boxes, zipper pouches etc…

Decovil Light, as the name suggests, is a lighter weight & thinner version of the original Decovil. It’s also softer.

Which to choose? Depending on your project and desired outcome but if, for example, you were making a bag you might choose to use Decovil I for the main body of your bag but for the bag handles choose Decovil I Light because you have a lot of layers to sew through.

Check out this little video which will hopefully give you an idea about how Decovil handles and moves

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The Benefits of Decovil Interlining

We’re a little bit in love with Decovil here at Plush Addict! Here’s some reasons why

 

  • It’s resistant to tearing and bending
  • Decovil gives structure
  • Gives a smooth, sleek finish
  • It’s Easy to shape
  • Decovil doesn’t crease easily – and if it does, it’s easy to restore
  • Helps reduce fraying
  • Adds durability to your project
  • Decovil can be pierced
  • It sews easily
  • Has a fusible coating on one side
  • It’s washable at 30 degrees

Check out our The Ultimate Vlieseline At-A-Glance Guide for more info on Vliseline’s Interfacings

When To Use Decovil

Decovil is really versatile but to give you an idea, you can use it in projects such as  

  • Placemats
  • Bags
  • Belts
  • Book & Notebook Covers
  • Zipper Pouches
  • Hats
  • Interior decorations
  • Small baskets

Decovil also makes a great alternative to wadding if you’re making placemats and gives a smooth and sleek look to the finished item. Check out our video:

Check out the suggestions on the Vlieseline site below for some free projects using Decovil

How to apply Decovil

 

It’s a cinch! Applying Decovil will be familiar – it’s very similar to applying other types of interlining and interfacing: 

 

  1. Spread a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over an ironing board
  2. Place your outer fabric  right side down
  3. Position the Decovil shiny side down so it is on top of the wrong side of your fabric
  4. Cover with a damp cloth and press for roughly 6 seconds
  5. Allow the adhesive to cool and cure for a minimum of 30 minutes to allow the adhesive to stick properly

Grab a cheeky 10% discount on your next Decovil purchase with DECOVIL10One time use per customer.

Projects Ideas Using Decovil

Check out our Free notebook project which uses Decovil here

The Vlieseline Blog has some fab & FREE tutorials using the Decovil range.

Have a nosy at:

On The Go Multi Bag free project using Decovil from Vlieseline

Slippers free project using Decovil from Vlieseline

A Doll’s House free project using Decovil from Vlieseline

Clam Shell Wedding Favours free project using Decovil from Vlieseline

Other Useful Info About Vlieseline Decovil

If you’re not planning on laundering your project,  Decovil can be painted! Use watered down acrylic paint and be sure to paint on the matt side

Decovil can also be painted using fabric dye on the adhesive (shiny) side. Watch out here though –  the nature of the fibres may well cause dye to spread from the point where it is applied. Make sure you test before hand… 

Want to try Decovil for the first time?

Grab a cheeky 10% discount on your next Decovil purchase with DECOVIL10. One time use per customer.

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A Guide To Fat Quarters

A Guide To Fat Quarters

So you see a new fabric collection and you’re like…

I LOVE IT

…but how much of it do I need? Can I afford them all? I can’t possibly choose!

Oh yeah, we totally get you.

This is why we offer fat quarter bundles so you can love it, make it & keep it!

Watch our video then check out the written guide below for the full fat-quarter lowdown!

What is a fat quarter?

You might have seen FQ on a tutorial and you’re like… what?!

FQ stands for fat quarter, which is a piece of pre-cut fabric that is made by cutting half a metre of the full fabric width from the bolt and then cut in half vertically, hence ‘quarters’. Most quilting fabrics are 44”/110cm wide, which makes fat quarters around 50cm x 55cm.

Are all fat quarters the same? 

Due to the term ‘fat quarter’ being all about the width, you may find some are different. This especially applies to American fat quarters, as they cut by the yard, which means you’ll find American fat quarters are a little shorter at around 56cm x 46cm. 

What size is a fat quarter?

The term ‘fat’ quarter refers to how it’s cut. Technically it is a quarter of a metre, however if you asked for a quarter of a metre at a fabric shop, they would probably cut as a strip (known as a long quarter) like this:

A fat quarter cut is a square shape which means you’re getting more scope to make wider things out of it, even though it’s technically the same surface area. 

You may find that some fabrics have a wider width, such as our PUL and Bamboo Velour. We sell this by the fat quarter, however the width can be up to 150cm, so you would get a very generous amount of fabric!

 

What projects can I make with fat quarters?

A fat quarter is definitely small but mighty in the sewing world. There are tons of projects you can make! Not only are they great for quilters and those applique fans out there you could also make cushions, tote bags, pencil cases, tablet covers, baskets, bibs and so much more.

We have lots of tutorials on our blog which you could make with fat quarters including:

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Where can I buy fat quarters?

Right here at Plush Addict! We sell quilting collections in fat quarter bundles and you can buy any of our fabrics as a fat quarter, as they are cut bespoke for you when you order. We even have a colour matching service, just pop in the order notes which fabrics you’d like us to colour match and we’ll check for you.

 

Did you learn a lot from this blog? We’d love to hear from you in the comments!

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A Beginners Guide to KAM Snaps

A Beginners Guide to KAM Snaps

Looking for a quick and easy fastening? We have put together this super handy beginners guide to all things KAM snaps!

What are KAM Snaps?

 

KAM snaps are high quality plastic fasteners, the perfect alternative to sew on buttons and metal snaps. They are made from polyacetal resin which is extremely strong and Oekotex certified, which means they’re safe for children’s clothing. They come in different sizes. In addition, there are lots of different colours to match all kinds of fabrics and projects.

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Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

What do we need to apply KAM snaps?

 

KAM Snaps do not require any sewing and are applied with a snap setting tool. The most popular are the KAM pliers, which come with different die sets to suit all KAM snap sizes, an adjusting screwdriver, a rod for different fitting scenarios and a plastic-handled awl.

The pliers are great for light use. However if you think you’ll get hooked and will be fitting lots of plastic snaps, we’d recommend the KAM press.

What is a KAM press?

 

A KAM press is a professional snap press, which is compatible with all KAM snap shapes and sizes. It is a small but mighty desktop press and the die sets for the different size KAM snaps can be swapped and changed without any tools. Moreover, if you’re looking to attach lots of KAM snaps with a snug professional finish, this is the one to go for.

How to use KAM snap pliers

 

Installing KAM snaps is easy and super quick. You will need 2 KAM snap caps, 1 stud (male) and 2 sockets (female).

Step 1: Pierce your fabric with an awl (Don’t worry, you get one of these included with your plier kit!)

Step 2: Place the point of one of the caps through the hole and place the male stud on top.

Step 3: Place in the KAM pliers making sure the cap is flush in the black sunken dish and squeeze the pliers well.

Step 4: Pierce through the other side of the fabric with the awl.

Step 5: Repeat steps 2 and 3 with the female part.

Woohoo! You have an attached KAM snap!

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Can you remove KAM snaps?

 

Yes you can! Over on the website we sell KAM snap removal pliers which are designed to cleanly remove KAM snaps from your projects. This is great if you want to reuse the KAM snaps on a project a little one has grown out of or maybe you’re upcycling!

How to remove KAM snaps

 

Removing KAM snaps is really quick and easy. Furthermore, with the removal pliers you get the die sets to remove both the female and male sides of the snap.

Step 1: Drop into the pliers the female or male die set, depending on which part of the KAM snap you’re removing.

Step 2: Tighten it up with the screwdriver provided in the pliers kit.

Step 3: Slot the installed KAM snap into the pliers so it is sitting flush in the die set.

Step 4: Squeeze the pliers until you hear a click, then the KAM snap should fall away from the project.

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What kinds of projects can I use KAM snaps on?

 

We have tons of inspiration, tutorials and guides using KAM snaps! Here are some of them:

We hope you found this guide helpful! Let me know in the comments if you have any questions

DIY Happy Birthday Bunting Tutorial: Free Templates Included

DIY Happy Birthday Bunting Tutorial: Free Templates Included

Welcome to this helpful guide to crafting your very own reusable birthday bunting!

Included in this tutorial are free downloadable templates for the bunting flag and the ‘Happy Birthday’ letters, making it even easier to create your personalised decoration.

Celebrate sustainably with a handmade decoration that’s not only eco-friendly but also adds a personal touch to your special day. This project is perfect for beginners and will help you master essential sewing techniques while creating something delightful for your home.

Handmade bunting can be washed and used time and time again and make those special memories for you and your family.

Sewing Skills for Making Reusable Birthday Bunting

You will learn

  • How to use Bondaweb.
  • Appliqué techniques.
  • Sewing bunting.
  • Turning and finishing points.

Materials for Sewing Birthday Bunting Flags

**A note on fabric quantities: Enough fabric is needed to cut 26 triangles depending on your fabric choices and colour combinations you may find you require different amounts. **

1 fat quarter yields 8 or 10 triangles, depending on cutting accuracy. See below for the fabrics & quantities we used to create each look.

What is Bondaweb And Why Use It?

Bondaweb is a brilliantly versatile fabric glue; think of it as a sheet of double sided sticky tape that can adhere 2 fabrics together.

There are many benefits to using Bondaweb:

  • Until heat is applied bondaweb is not sticky
  • Once used it can be washed at up to 60 degrees or dry cleaned
  • Bondaweb is perfect for appliqué, but check out our pinwheel project here for an alternative project idea.
  • Makes it easier to cut appliqué designs accurately
  • It gives appliqué shapes stability, making them easier to sew in place
  • The backing paper can be drawn on in pencil and is translucent enough for tracing, making it easier to pan out designs

Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing Birthday Bunting

 

Step 1: Prepare Your Bunting Flags

  • Print and cut out the triangle template. Ensure your printer is set to 100% (not “Fit to Page”) and check the sizing using the 1” test square.
  • Trace and cut 26 triangles from your fabric using the template. For precise cutting, a rotary cutter and mat are helpful.

Step 2: Adding ‘Happy Birthday’ Letters with Bondaweb

Once you’re cut all of your flags using the template it’s now time to appliqué on the “HAPPY BIRTHDAY” letters:

Trace “HAPPY BIRTHDAY” letters onto the smooth side of the Bondaweb.

Pro Tip: If your fabric has a definite right and wrong side, trace the letters in reverse.

Roughly cut around each letter on the Bondaweb, then iron the Bondaweb onto the wrong side of your lettering fabric. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for heat settings.

Once cooled, cut out each letter accurately and peel off the backing paper.

Position each letter onto a triangle, aligning it 3cm from the top edge. Iron into place using a damp tea towel for protection.

Seam-Star Top Tip: use an Olfa knife & a craft mat for an easier cut around the inside of the letters.

5. Spread a smooth surfaced tea towel or spare length of cotton fabric over an ironing board.

6. Lay the Bondaweb lettering fabric wrong side up on the ironing board.

7. Place the Bondaweb letters on top of your lettering fabric rough side down, following the fabric grain.

8. Lay a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over the top and press each letter for roughly 5 seconds, heat setting 2, no steam.

Then wait at least 30 minutes for the Bondaweb to cool and the glue to set.

9. Cut out each letter accurately, cutting small details is easier with fine scissors or a small rotary cutter and cutting mat.

10. One at a time peel the backing paper off each letter and position it centrally on the corresponding triangle, 3cm from the top edge.

11.  Place the triangle and letter right side up on the covered ironing board. Lay a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over the top.

12. Dampen the cover fabric using the iron’s spray setting and press over each letter for roughly 10 seconds, heat setting 3.

Allow at least 30 minutes for the Bondaweb to cool and the glue to set.

13. Sew around the edge of each letter and around any cut out elements (for example the centre of the D), 2mm from the edge.

Hand sewn blanket stitch or machine zig zag stitch overlapping the edge of the letter and the surrounding fabric can also be used (length 0.5 to 1, width 3 to 4 depending on the finish required).

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Sew The Bunting Flags

14. Pin and sew 2 corresponding triangles right sides together, leaving the top edge open.

Want a ready-to-use template? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the Happy Birthday bunting templates & letters.

How To Turn The Point

15. Clip the seam allowance at the point in a straight line across the top, close to, but not through, the sewn seam.

16. Fold in and press the seam allowance along one long edge, then repeat on the other side, overlapping the seam allowance near the tip.

Clip any overhanging seam allowance.

17. Turn the flag out the right way, using a pointed object to help shape the tip.

18. Clip any protruding seam allowance from the top of the flag and press.

19. Clip any protruding seam allowance from the top of the flag and press.

20. Fold the bias binding tape in half and press.

21. Measure 50cm from the end of the tape and position the first flag between the 2 layers of bias tape, the top of the flag meeting the fold line.

Clip or pin the flag in place with the letter facing forwards.

22. Position the second flag 2cm along from the first and clip, checking that the letter faces forwards.

23. Continue clipping all the flags on place leaving a 50cm tail of bias binding at the end.

24. Prepare the tape ends by pressing 1cm of tape inward to encase the raw edges and clip or pin in place.

25. Repeat steps 20. to 23. for the second line of bunting.

26. Starting at one end of the bias binding sew the 2 edges together and continue all the way along, sewing each flag in place and stopping at the other end of the bias tape.

And you’re finished, well done!

Want a ready-to-use template? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download the Happy Birthday bunting template.

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Tutorial: How To Sew French Seams

Tutorial: How To Sew French Seams

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

A sewing tutorial for Beginners

Once you’ve gained confidence in sewing straight lines, you may want to learn how to sew a French seam. French seam is a great step to add to your sewing projects to get them looking extra special.

French seams are most commonly used for fine fabrics:

  • The seam is sewn twice, making the finished item more durable.
  • Raw edges are enclosed in the finished seam, to give a neat finish.
  • Some fine fabrics are sheer, making seams visible. A French seam is aesthetically pleasing.

If you’re new to sewing French seams the easiest start point is to practice with cotton fabrics; it’s easier to see your progress and they are much more forgiving when unpicked.

 

Jump To:

  1. Sewing With Cotton Fabrics
  2. Sewing With Fine Fabrics

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Practicing French Seams With Cotton Fabric

Important notes:

For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.

Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice.

You will need:

  • 2 pieces of cotton fabric

Step-by-Step With Cotton Fabric

1. Pin 2 pieces of fabric wrong sides together

2. Sew with a 5mm seam allowance

3. Press the seam open with the seam allowances to one side, trim any loose threads.

4. Fold along the seam to bring the 2 fabrics right sides together and press.

5. Pin then sew with a 1cm seam allowance.

6. Press the seam allowance to one side

On fine fabrics the 1st sewn seam allowance is trimmed and a wider seam allowance is sometimes necessary for this step. 

When using cotton, a 5mm seam can be usually be sewn on a domestic machine without the fabric being ‘chewed’. The seam allowances have not been trimmed in the cottons practice following the 1st sew, unless you wish to. The finished seams here will not be visible as per sheer fabrics, therefore a slightly bulkier finish does not present any aesthetic issues.

The final seam on fine fabrics is narrower.

Once you feel confident sewing a French seam with cotton fabrics, you may wish to practice on some delicate fabric:

Sewing French Seams With Fine Fabrics

Important notes:

For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 3 unless otherwise stated.

Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturers care advice.

You will need:

  • 2 pieces of cotton fabric

Step-by-Step With Fine Fabrics

Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturers care advice.

1. Pin 2 pieces of fabric wrong sides together

2. Sew with a 1cm seam allowance

3. Press the seam open with the seam allowances to one side, trim the seam allowance to 2 or 3mm

4. Fold along the seam to bring the 2 fabrics right sides together and press.

5. Pin then sew with a 5mm seam allowance.

6. Press the seam allowance to one side

And you’re finished, well done!

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